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Powerflex Motor Mount Inserts

ron@whoosh

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So gave up on doing the Traction Bar yesterday, only had a huge jack available that blocked me from getting the jack stand in the right spot and my buddy, who was probably just being lazy despite lots of mechanical experience said that it was too hard to break free after getting under there with one side jacked up... but THEN later on broke out an impact wrench to help me with the passenger side insert and bolt replacement. Wow, major added vibes, my main thoughts are A. Is this really the street version, of course it is since it's yellow, but B. Then maybe it could act as a flat out replacement for that stock ring since it's thicker and tougher, instead of being added in there, interesting! I haven't even gotten to the driver side yet but noticed a big improvement in solid feeling but still am shocked at just how much vibes there are, FAR more than adding a medium stiff 75a RMM.
there is truly no way to effectively reduce engine/trans movement without adding some NVH
take a ride in a Fiesta with TTR or cp-e side mounts and prepare for and experience like no other
But keep in mind those mounts as your inserts actually do what they are intended to do and do it very well[like]
 


danbfree

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there is truly no way to effectively reduce engine/trans movement without adding some NVH
take a ride in a Fiesta with TTR or cp-e side mounts and prepare for and experience like no other
But keep in mind those mounts as your inserts actually do what they are intended to do and do it very well[like]
Yes, very happy with the performance for sure and definitely am OK with some added NVH, I know with RMM's that the ones that use the large bushings don't add much NVH. But still a little surprised on how much one little ring added in this case, and again since it's thicker to begin with than the factory rubber ring, wondering if maybe it could be used alone as a replacement instead of an addition? Hmm....

Edit: I now see that the listing description says it's to REPLACE the stock rubber donut, huh, so am I right that I should have just used the new one and not added it?
 


OP
koozy

koozy

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Thread Starter #163
I've got the race black version insert with my 80A filled urethane mounts and a Cobb RMM. The vibes cut down by 60% after they've broken in from my experience. First start up and few miles are not good indicators of long term vibes.

oh, and the rubber band will break over time and heat cycles. best find something else to secure it.
 


danbfree

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I've got the race black version insert with my 80A filled urethane mounts and a Cobb RMM. The vibes cut down by 60% after they've broken in from my experience. First start up and few miles are not good indicators of long term vibes.

oh, and the rubber band will break over time and heat cycles. best find something else to secure it.
Huh, interesting, I used a zip tie instead of the rubber band that didn't even hold it closed all the way... So I've put at least 50 miles on it now and not much has changed, we'll see if it improves in time, thanks for the encouraging feedback!
 


danbfree

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OK, one last update on the passenger side insert: I'm impressed! The vibes are calming down and this one little ring of poly has literally reduced my 3rd gear torque steer by 75% or more... WOW. This needs to be recommended more for sure, I truly am shocked at the difference and am wondering if doing the trans side is even worth it even though I already have it but haven't installed yet.

I recommend everyone to start with at least the passenger side one as literally just as important to do as an RMM!
 


AzNightmare

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Is there instructions online that I can see?
I'm not understanding why we need zip ties or what the "rubber band" does, or why it deteriorates in 3k miles.
 


KnockOff

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From what I understand. It's better to have both side mounts because having 1 side puts way more stress on the remaining stock mount.

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danbfree

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Is there instructions online that I can see?
I'm not understanding why we need zip ties or what the "rubber band" does, or why it deteriorates in 3k miles.
You'll have to look back at the posts for step by step instructions, indeed, the included instructions assume you have the mount in your hand already, not helpful for disassembly... but to answer your question, the passenger side insert is just a poly ring that in the street yellow version looks like a pineapple slice... well, it has a slit in it so that it can be added without the full mount removal but once in place it leaves a gap at that slit area. It includes a black heavy rubber band that goes around the outside to hold it closed into a full circle but it simply isn't strong enough to keep it closed, so we have used a thin zip tie around the outside tightened down to keep it fully closed in place before reinstalling the mount. Hope that kind of makes sense...
 


danbfree

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From what I understand. It's better to have both side mounts because having 1 side puts way more stress on the remaining stock mount.
Oh, for sure, I ordered both but only had time for the passenger side to start with, I need to do the driver/trans mount this weekend... but I have to admit it seems the passenger side one needs the most help, but need to get driver/trans one in before it stresses the stock one there too much.
 


TyphoonFiST

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Is there instructions online that I can see?
I'm not understanding why we need zip ties or what the "rubber band" does, or why it deteriorates in 3k miles.
Its just a poor quality silicone/rubber band that they use to keep it together that's all. This is why others are suggesting using a zip tie to keep it together!


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From what I understand. It's better to have both side mounts because having 1 side puts way more stress on the remaining stock mount.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Is this something that’s been extensively proven or just speculation by a few? Not against the idea but I’m about to put in a passenger bushing and arp bolt from whoosh and he said the trans mount wasn’t needed at all for aggressive street use. Still on the fence about tracking this car as it’s my daily. I might just pick up another cheaper car to build and thrash.


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KnockOff

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I was told with my 03 focus 2.3 when I inquired about the mounts. Same 3 type mounts. That all the engine movement and stress would go through the softest mount. E.g. path of least resistance. If you think about it, it makes sense.

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jeff

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Is this something that’s been extensively proven or just speculation by a few? Not against the idea but I’m about to put in a passenger bushing and arp bolt from whoosh and he said the trans mount wasn’t needed at all for aggressive street use. Still on the fence about tracking this car as it’s my daily. I might just pick up another cheaper car to build and thrash.


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I can tell you from experience that doing the passenger side is like tying your right sneaker right and but not your left. Then I drove it like that for a week which was like walking around with my right shoelaces nice and snug but my left loose. Then I did the drivers side and it was like tying my left sneaker nice and tight too. Now, when I drive around, both sneakers feel tight.

In other words, I installed one, waited a week, and then installed the other. The second (driver side) definitely improved things. If you're gonna do this I recommend both.
 


danbfree

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I can tell you from experience that doing the passenger side is like tying your right sneaker right and but not your left. Then I drove it like that for a week which was like walking around with my right shoelaces nice and snug but my left loose. Then I did the drivers side and it was like tying my left sneaker nice and tight too. Now, when I drive around, both sneakers feel tight.

In other words, I installed one, waited a week, and then installed the other. The second (driver side) definitely improved things. If you're gonna do this I recommend both.
I was just wondering myself... did the passenger side and it definitely helped and was hoping to hear the driver side helped even more. I installed the TB Performance traction bar and it only seemed to help a little more than the passenger side pineapple slice insert, so looking forward to doing driver side now, just gotta search the thread for the install procedure.
 


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Ahh ok thanks guys. I was hoping between my cpe RMM and this it would be fine just my RMM is stuff as hell already. Guess I’ll be buying both sides. Heard the trans mount was a pita.


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jeff

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Ahh ok thanks guys. I was hoping between my cpe RMM and this it would be fine just my RMM is stuff as hell already. Guess I’ll be buying both sides. Heard the trans mount was a pita.


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All the mounts are super easy and I'm by no means an expert machanic. The only possible complication with all 3 is having to raise or lower the jack a few mm while uninstalling/installing to get things to line up correctly, but that's it. With the drivers side you have to unhook a bunch of stuff but it's just legos, there is nothing complex at all. Just do it when you're sober and you'll be fine.
 


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All the mounts are super easy and I'm by no means an expert machanic. The only possible complication with all 3 is having to raise or lower the jack a few mm while uninstalling/installing to get things to line up correctly, but that's it. With the drivers side you have to unhook a bunch of stuff but it's just legos, there is nothing complex at all. Just do it when you're sober and you'll be fine.
Haha duly noted. I do all my own work should be fine then. Haven’t even bothered to look up the install cause I never thought of doing it. Time to read a bit. Thanks.


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danbfree

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All the mounts are super easy and I'm by no means an expert machanic. The only possible complication with all 3 is having to raise or lower the jack a few mm while uninstalling/installing to get things to line up correctly, but that's it. With the drivers side you have to unhook a bunch of stuff but it's just legos, there is nothing complex at all. Just do it when you're sober and you'll be fine.
Haha duly noted. I do all my own work should be fine then. Haven’t even bothered to look up the install cause I never thought of doing it. Time to read a bit. Thanks.
I just book marked post #124, S_Manley has a great step by step for the driver side... thanks for all the input everyone! And yes, use the jack to raise the engine less than an inch to get the weight off the mounts is only way to go, handled passenger side that way, just haven't had time to tackle all the disassembly required to get the trans/driver side.. Also debating whether to get the shifter bushings to do while I'm in there, already did short shift plate, which I highly recommend.
 


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These mounts are pretty easy to install. The driver/trans take longer because you have to get some stuff out of the way.

That post does have very good instructions. I removed the intake for some extra room. Also I was having a hard time getting the bottom ECU connector undone while it was attached to the battery tray. So I took off the 4 nuts holding the ECU to the battery tray. Then I was able to lift the ECU up a little and get better access to the connector.
 


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Installed the passenger side yellow insert last night. once again thanks to the forums I knew ahead of time what to do.
I did use a ziptie instead of the rubber oring they supplied.
I simply removed the headlight and moved the coolant overflow tank out of the way.
I did need a jack to help raise and lower the motor in order to get the mount on and off without fighting with it.
I was a little worried about added NVH but I can't honestly notice anymore than was already there.
Thanks again for those that contribute info.

[thumb]
 




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