Big brake kits BBK’s

[Economatic]

If you are going to the track use a BP40 or Willwood A or B compound. The A will make your eyeballs pop out, but its not a street pad by any measure. The BP40 is also not a street pad. I'm running the BP20 and its awesome on the street. Infact it dusts less than the OE rear pads. I would stick with the OE rear pad as its good throughout its temp range. Plus it behaves nicely on the street. Besides, FWD doesn't use the rear brakes much in normal use. It will however get hot enough on track to turn the rotors blue.

Awesome, thanks for the suggestion. Since you have a shop can I purchase through you? I'd be happy to let you make some $ from the sale if it's possible. I'd also be interested to hear any suggestions you have about new struts/shocks, and springs or coilovers. Since I'm getting off topic of BBK's I can send you a direct message if you prefer...

 

[Fusion Works]

I also need suggestions on where to buy pads for my Wilwood kit, looks like EBC no longer supplies theirs. Carbotech is supposed to email me back about buying a set of their pads to use for the street, but I haven't figured out track pads yet. I'd also like to upgrade the rotor... but have no idea where to get better rings.

Which kit do you have? What rings are on it at the moment ? Also how much are you tracking the car?

 

[Fusion Works]

Awesome, thanks for the suggestion. Since you have a shop can I purchase through you? I'd be happy to let you make some $ from the sale if it's possible. I'd also be interested to hear any suggestions you have about new struts/shocks, and springs or coilovers. Since I'm getting off topic of BBK's I can send you a direct message if you prefer...

Yeah send me a DM.

 

[MagnetiseST]

Which kit do you have? What rings are on it at the moment ? Also how much are you tracking the car?

I have the standard Wilwood kit for the FiST with the Dynapro calipers and the standard cheapo rings. The 6712 pad is what I am told will fit, I found the spec37 rotor rings last night so I'll be getting a set of those. It sees the track a few times (2-4) a year but its definitely more of a daily.

I was upset about EBC not having pads, but there have to be similar options out there.

 

[Fusion Works]

EBC pads are not that impressive. There are lots of other better options. If you don't mind changing pads for a track event vs what you run every day, that opens a lot more options. Not knowing how hard you are on the brakes, not knowing what tracks you run on, its tough to make a recommendation. Do you have any brake cooling?

I'm murder on brakes and I know it so the BP 20 has not survived one track day at Barber without getting cooked, but I love it on the street. Its got more bite than the stock pads with less dust. Win for me. I also built some brake ducts that fit in the lower air dam. They worked OK until I smashed them when I went off. New charge piping with the S280 will help get that one lower hose up and safe. Guess I'll probably run the open all the time.

 

[MagnetiseST]

I'd have to say I'm not terribly hard on the brakes, except on track. No brake ducting at all, I want to keep my foglights for the time being. I know its a hassle to change the pads for racing but that is something that I'm willing to deal with. Not a huge deal to me.

Daytona, Homestead, & Sebring (full and club circuits) are my home tracks.

BP20s for the street with the spec37s should be fine I think. Using the same rotors for the track I was looking at Carbotech again and Gloc.

 

[Fusion Works]

Fog lights are not a good place for brake air. Too low a pressure area to feed the brakes. Need to pick up right in front of the car.

Try the BP40 or the B compound. You should like both of those as a Wilwood option. You could use the DTC60 as an alternative for that caliper. Gloc makes some nice pads, the were part of the Cobalt/Carbotech families. They had family drama and bailed to start their own company.

 

[johnny5]

Tried out a set of PFC11s on a stoptech BBK, so far I like them. They don't have the all out bite like some other pads, but they are very consistent

 

[MagnetiseST]

Fog lights are not a good place for brake air. Too low a pressure area to feed the brakes. Need to pick up right in front of the car.

Better off with some ducts in the lower air dam?

Try the BP40 or the B compound. You should like both of those as a Wilwood option. You could use the DTC60 as an alternative for that caliper. Gloc makes some nice pads, the were part of the Cobalt/Carbotech families. They had family drama and bailed to start their own company.

I'll prob grab the BP20s for daily and look into the Glocs for the track. I have a lot of friends with Glocs and they love them. I'm sort of hesitant on the wilwood pads for track days.

 

[Fusion Works]

Yes, the air dam is the next highest pressure area behind the bumper opening. (This assumes you still have the stock airdam).

If you choose the right Wilwood pads there is no issue. However relying on the sales monkey at Wilwood to give you the right compound is kinda of a joke. HAHA. I have used the several of the Wilwood compounds on kits I've built or race cars that use the Wilwood calipers and they work well. The Polymatrix E is an old compound and it basically sucks. HAHA. The E isn't even as good as the BP20. Thats why you had NO success with them. Its a rear compound for a dirt car. The B, BP30, BP40, A compound would be where I would start looking at Wilwood specific track pad.

Keep me updated on your Gloc experience. Looking forward to seeing how you like them.

Daytona is pretty hard on brakes for two turns depending on who you run with and what configuration. I haven't run Sebring and Homestead. To far away. HAHA. Come to Barber or RD Atlanta sometime. Roebling is nice also, not hard on brakes though.

 

[Fusion Works]

Here is a bad pic of my ducts in the airdam:

I ran a 3in duct to each wheel. The driver side was completely out of the way. but the passenger side had to run under some charge piping so it was poorly protected and suffered a terrible fate when I went off in the gravel at Barber.

 

[MagnetiseST]

Still looks relatively clean, are you using the cm buildz backing plates?

 

[Fusion Works]

No, When I did the ducts I just ran the hoses into the wheel just below the control arm. Poor design, but done 4 hours before the car went on the trailer to get the track. It was kind of a bandaid to keep the OE front brakes alive since i didn't have the big brake kit built at the time.

Now I took the hoses off because I had no issues with brake temps with the big kit. When I pull the car off the road to change the turbo out, upgrade T-stat, etc, I'll fix the charge piping on the passenger side so I can get the brake duct up away from the road and I may build something that will help direct air better into the center eye, but since its just street car, I may not worry about it. Wonder if the brake ducts could help keep the wheels cleaner. HAHA

 

[Fusion Works]

Ya'll realize brakes don't stop the car, the tires do. Put better tires on the car and it will stop better.

 

[Fusion Works]

There is no difference in the stopping capabilites of the stock calipers and the Wilwood big brakes under normal street conditions. Pedal feel is about the same (possibly slightly firmer because of hydraulic ratios), but stopping distances are the same if you have the OE summer tire type pads (or other performance pad) and a solid 200tw street tire. (Assuming same road conditions). You can lock up the brakes at will with the stock setup and the BBK. The stock setup will "Stops on a dime repeatedly and gives me a nickel back". Not sure what you are trying to imply.

When fresh the stock brakes are perfect for the street. On track is a whole different ball game.

 

[Fusion Works]

LOL.

 

[TDavis]

Stoptech BBK ftw

 

[jeffreylyon]

Bull doody. Have you run both systems? I have. It's night and day my man. I told you not to flex.

I have, on the street and on the track. Wilwoods in the front and SVT rotors in the back. My observations are similar to @Fusion Works w/r/t to brake performance; the stock brakes/pads offer very similar braking performance initially but don't have near the heat tolerance of the Willwoods/SVT setup on BP-10s and EBC Yellow in the rear. I drove the car in the morning on my favorite slice of Mexico, did the upgrade, and took the same trip on the same day and was really impressed with the improved ride but did not feel a significant increase in brake performance.

With BP-20s in the front the Wilwoods are far superior on the track. I had to take cool-down laps with the stock brakes/pads and can push for 20 minutes with the Wilwoods.

Of course, if one is sending one's car to a shop in another state for work and is highly subject to the placebo effect one might claim to feel a much larger improvement.

 

[Fusion Works]

I have run stock brakes, stock brakes with cooling ducts, stock brakes with SVT rear rotors and the custom bigger brake kit that I designed, built, and installed myself using the Superlite 2 6 pot caliper, 12.88x1.10 Wilwood Spec37 42vane rotors, stainless lines, BP20 pads, custom 325mm rear rotor setup with a stock caliper/pad combo. On the stock RE050 summer tires and on a brand new set of Maxxis VR1s, there is negligible difference in street braking performance.

The stock brakes are not a deficiency until you roll onto a race track then in stock trim they don't have the heat capacity of my custom parts. Funny the Wilwood pads dust less than the stock pads and have the same initial bite and feel.

I guess if you can crack off some real data such as 100-0 numbers, rotor and pad temps before and after, etc, you are just spouting off nonsense. Maybe your setup stops better because your wallet is lighter. I dunno.

 

[MagnetiseST]

With BP-20s in the front the Wilwoods are far superior on the track. I had to take cool-down laps with the stock brakes/pads and can push for 20 minutes with the Wilwoods.

Noting this, I just ordered some BP20s for street use... but if they can double duty for the track, that would make me happy. Otherwise I was going to ppt for some Gloc R10s