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What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?
I drove a persons car with the Mountune alone and liked. I sat in a car and tested the Mountune and Boomba combined and it felt notchy which I don’t like in any car. They probably had the combined 40% or more. Which is what I drew my conclusion from especially based on what you are saying. Perhaps I would feel different If I shifted a car with the Boomba set to less than that.
Thing is I personally do not feel the stock shifter in our cars is that bad for a stock shifter in what is a Hot Hatch. Its actually pretty good.
I got the Mountune for free ( yup won it ) at the Mountune Meet a few years ago. I have not installed it yet because its not been a oh my god this shifter is so long throw it needs to be shortened.
I have seen longer throw shifters in the past on cars and this( the stock shifter) is nice in comparison.
In fact its reasonably precise with decent throws for a stock shifter.
I will say after testing the Mountune in someones car I will install it but its not high on my priority list in mods for my car. I have bigger fish to fry so to speak. One of these days it will get tossed in and I will post it in my build thread.
As far as Honda/Acura’s being the best shifters in the world whoever said that I cannot agree with it. They are good. They are completely in the wrong place in the tunnel though way too far forward almost into the dash. To me that is strange. Though Hey I am a RWD guy and used to the shifter being just forward of the seat edge not up in the underside of the dash.
I also personally would not get caught dead driving any Honda/Acura outside of a NSX or their Motorcyles. Thats from being a Japanese RWD car guy thing. What can I say call me biased.
Thing is I personally do not feel the stock shifter in our cars is that bad for a stock shifter in what is a Hot Hatch. Its actually pretty good.
I got the Mountune for free ( yup won it ) at the Mountune Meet a few years ago. I have not installed it yet because its not been a oh my god this shifter is so long throw it needs to be shortened.
I have seen longer throw shifters in the past on cars and this( the stock shifter) is nice in comparison.
In fact its reasonably precise with decent throws for a stock shifter.
I will say after testing the Mountune in someones car I will install it but its not high on my priority list in mods for my car. I have bigger fish to fry so to speak. One of these days it will get tossed in and I will post it in my build thread.
As far as Honda/Acura’s being the best shifters in the world whoever said that I cannot agree with it. They are good. They are completely in the wrong place in the tunnel though way too far forward almost into the dash. To me that is strange. Though Hey I am a RWD guy and used to the shifter being just forward of the seat edge not up in the underside of the dash.
I also personally would not get caught dead driving any Honda/Acura outside of a NSX or their Motorcyles. Thats from being a Japanese RWD car guy thing. What can I say call me biased.
![[cheers]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_cheers.gif "Cheers [cheers]"){kind=icon}
New tires installed Falken Azenis RT660.
If you are interested to see what the OEM summer tire looks like after 15,000 miles I took pictures.
Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
If you are interested to see what the OEM summer tire looks like after 15,000 miles I took pictures.
Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
Are your “tire dots” where they should be?
First, if the tire has a red dot, the yellow dot is ignored! The red dot is then lined up with either the “low point dimple” (on steel wheels) or next to the valve stem on alloy wheels. Regardless of the type of wheel, if there is no red dot, the yellow dot is positioned next to the valve stem.
Why do the tire dots go where they do?
Simply put – the tire is a bit lighter in the area where the yellow dot is located, and a bit thicker where the red dot is located. On an alloy wheel, the valve stem marks the heavy point of the wheel. By matching the light point of the tire with the heavy point of the wheel it’s likely to give the best initial balance.
Just a thought, this is pretty well covered in many locations on the net but I just copied this text.
Are your “tire dots” where they should be?
Tire manufacturers recommend the correct positioning of the red and yellow dots with respect to certain “landmarks” on both steel and alloy wheels. These dots can be used to mount tires for optimum initial balance and minimum ride disturbance – where the dots go depends on which dots – and which wheels you have.
First, if the tire has a red dot, the yellow dot is ignored! The red dot is then lined up with either the “low point dimple” (on steel wheels) or next to the valve stem on alloy wheels. Regardless of the type of wheel, if there is no red dot, the yellow dot is positioned next to the valve stem.
Why do the tire dots go where they do?
Simply put – the tire is a bit lighter in the area where the yellow dot is located, and a bit thicker where the red dot is located. On an alloy wheel, the valve stem marks the heavy point of the wheel. By matching the light point of the tire with the heavy point of the wheel it’s likely to give the best initial balance.
Are your “tire dots” where they should be?
First, if the tire has a red dot, the yellow dot is ignored! The red dot is then lined up with either the “low point dimple” (on steel wheels) or next to the valve stem on alloy wheels. Regardless of the type of wheel, if there is no red dot, the yellow dot is positioned next to the valve stem.
Why do the tire dots go where they do?
Simply put – the tire is a bit lighter in the area where the yellow dot is located, and a bit thicker where the red dot is located. On an alloy wheel, the valve stem marks the heavy point of the wheel. By matching the light point of the tire with the heavy point of the wheel it’s likely to give the best initial balance.
Discount tire uses excellent tire balancers.
"We have found that the only way to accurately match mount replacement tires on used original or new aftermarket wheels is to use Hunter tire balancers which have the ability to measure force variations under load before the tire and wheel are installed on the vehicle. Using these machines, the colored dot on the tire might be positioned anywhere on the wheel relative to its runout measurement. In the end, the markers have little, if any, relevance."
https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=242
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After I wrapped up my day I headed to my brothers shop. We successfully installed the Fortune Auto 500 coilovers, Whoosh IC, Velossa Tech Big Mouth, and a couple of rear tow points.
We did not cut the top of the strut towers. We set both camber plates to 0 on top and went from there. I'd rather dial it in by removing the struts once as I won't likely need to make camber adjustments often. Height adjustment was interesting. Not difficult, but time consuming. I blame him for messing with them and not spending the time to read the directions and listen. I'm the "slow down, read, plan" person and he's the "figure it out as we go along". So we had to lift, adjust, lower, lift, repeat a million times.
Finally set ride height and then worked through the alignment. Still some tweaking to do and I scrubbed the left front under compression on the drive home. So clearly a bit too low... Speaking of the drive home, it's about 15 minutes. And in that 15 minutes I can say with certainty the car is way more compliant. Hard bumps would previously send shockwaves through the car and that's reduced completely. It's unreal and exactly what I hoped. Obviously I'll get more seat time and more tweaking will be necessary.
The IC wasn't a big deal to install. He did my radiator so this was my first time getting the bumper cover off. Nothing crazy, just finicky. I did the black Whoosh IC and it's very well done.
The Big Mouth was a pain. Mostly capturing the nut to tighten the bolt. Looks great though.
I'm excited to see it all in the daylight. And of course the car now has fingerprints all over it. So a wash this weekend hopefully. And new brake pads going on.
Overall, very pleased. Just the LSD to go...
We did not cut the top of the strut towers. We set both camber plates to 0 on top and went from there. I'd rather dial it in by removing the struts once as I won't likely need to make camber adjustments often. Height adjustment was interesting. Not difficult, but time consuming. I blame him for messing with them and not spending the time to read the directions and listen. I'm the "slow down, read, plan" person and he's the "figure it out as we go along". So we had to lift, adjust, lower, lift, repeat a million times.
Finally set ride height and then worked through the alignment. Still some tweaking to do and I scrubbed the left front under compression on the drive home. So clearly a bit too low... Speaking of the drive home, it's about 15 minutes. And in that 15 minutes I can say with certainty the car is way more compliant. Hard bumps would previously send shockwaves through the car and that's reduced completely. It's unreal and exactly what I hoped. Obviously I'll get more seat time and more tweaking will be necessary.
The IC wasn't a big deal to install. He did my radiator so this was my first time getting the bumper cover off. Nothing crazy, just finicky. I did the black Whoosh IC and it's very well done.
The Big Mouth was a pain. Mostly capturing the nut to tighten the bolt. Looks great though.
I'm excited to see it all in the daylight. And of course the car now has fingerprints all over it. So a wash this weekend hopefully. And new brake pads going on.
Overall, very pleased. Just the LSD to go...
Yeah it's personal preference for sure but I'm 5 foot 6 and have 15 inches from elbow to finger tips and I find the position just fine. The additional 30 percent just makes it feel like it should have been from the start. I was unhappy with the throw by doing the other mods it just wasn't enough for me. I hope some of this helps I personally have it as one of my tops favorite mods next to the motor mount inserts I did the yellow ones and that actually helped with shifting feel as well especially when in a corner. Made a huge difference in handling I was actually kinda blown away and very little noise and vibration which was why I went with the softer compound. Anywho I'd say pull the trigger I'd be very surprised if u were bothered by it cause I barely noticed the positioning change but I sure did notice the decrease in throw. But if u are a bigger guy then it could be more of a thing. Good luck
Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk
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