Modding FAQ: A Beginners Guide to Modding the Fiesta ST

[Goingnowherefast]

So you want to make your slow car fast? Tired of getting passed by V6 minivans? This thread is for you.

V1.0 1/4/2017 (Original Version with lots of errors)

There?s always people asking how to and where to start modifying their car so I?m going to be compiling a thread of information and links to get people started. In this thread I will talk about the different things you can do to your car and what effect it will have. I will also put a few examples (in no specific order) of parts under each subcategory. They are just simple examples and are in no way shape or form the best of each part type etc. If you have any questions ask below?

***NOTE: THE PARTS and VENDORS LISTED BELOW ARE NOT THE ONLY ONES AVAILABLE ON THE MARKET, THEY ARE JUST LISTED AS EXAMPLES.

Engine:

Tunes: Previsously known as ?chips? even though that definition is outdated and incorrect. This is the best bang for buck when it comes to easy power gains. There are few main options for tuning and all of them offer tunes for bone stock cars to bigger turbo/full bolt-on cars. For the average enthusiast there is also ?stages? of tunes, in which the tune will be tailored to a specific set of modifications not you individual car. In this section, I will NOT go through each individual Pro-tuner (as there are really too many), but I will touch on a few later on.

-Cobb Tuning: This one is the big one. Cobb uses a handheld tuner called the ?Access-Port?. Through this handheld tuner you can load up several Cobb made off the shelf tunes, E-tunes from different companies or even head to a dyno and get a pro-tune made for your car by your tuner. The handheld device has several other features like error code reading, live data, datalogging, and it can also add features like Launch Control and No-lift-Shift. Another advantage of the Cobb Access-Port is you can uninstall it and sell it after use. Here?s the different stages that comes with the Access-Port?

? Stage 1 (Both 91 or 93): Plug and Play tune. No mods necessary to install.
? Stage 2 (Both 91 or 93): Required hardware: Per Cobb: Intake, Intercooler and Cat-back exhaust.
? Stage 3 (Both 91 or 93): Required Hardware: Per Cobb: Intake, Intercooler, and Turboback. This tune is for cars with mostly full bolt-ons. This is generally considered the end of the Off-the-Shelf tuning path.

(Information gathered from: http://www.cobbtuning.com/

Classifications of Cobb tunes:
There are a few different types of tunes that you can utilize with the Cobb Access-port. Think of the Access-Port as the vessel for multiple tunes. Here are the different types (The % scale is a made-up scale with 100% being a truly perfect tune for the specific vehicle being).

1. OTS Tunes: OTS tunes or ?Off-The-Shelf tunes are tunes made by Cobb that are pre-downloaded onto the Access-Port before purchasing. These tunes are generally very generic and conservative and I?d say they will get you about ~70% of the way there.

2. OTS+ Tunes: OTS+ tunes are OTS tunes that have been tweaked and improved by smaller tuners like Stratified Automotive Controls etc. These are general cheap (about $50) and are generic for every car based on your modifications. These will get you about ~85% of the way there.

3. E-Tunes: E-Tunes or ?Internet Tunes? (I promise they are not as shady as the name suggests), use datalogs provided by the user to tweak the tune to be specific for their own car. These will get you 90-95% there.

4. Pro-Tunes: Pro-Tunes or Dyno Tunes are the final and most expensive way of tuning via Cobb. These are the best way to get an all-encompassing tune using a dynamometer that can vary speed and load to simulate every condition. These are the most expensive as you must rent the Dyno and pay for the operator and tuners time. These will get you 99% of the way to tuning perfection.

Intakes: More air means more power and there is a wide variety of intakes available that will accomplish this. Our stock intakes flow quite well compared to other cars hence why an intake is not technically necessary for most of the ?off the shelf tunes?, but more air is never a bad thing and there are gains to be had with some. Intakes are fairly cheap and there are many to choose from but here?s just a couple to get you started. Also keep in mind any ?open? box options will usually be louder than ?closed? box options ESPECIALLY one like the 2J Racing intake.

-Intake: Here are just a few examples of popular downpipe options available ranging from 2.25-3.0 inches.

• C-PE (http://cp-e.com/webstore2/product/ford-fiesta-st-xcel-intake-intake-system/)
• Cobb (http://www.cobbtuning.com/products/air-induction/ford-fiesta-st-intake-system)
• 2J Racing (https://www.2j-racing.com/fiesta-st/2jr-true-cold-air-intake-fiesta-st-cowl-induction.html)

Exhausts: For turbo cars there are two main sections that will be talked about with our applications (Cat-backs and downpipes). As the name suggests a downpipe is the section of exhaust that connects from the turbo to past the cats. Also as the name suggests a cat-back is the portion of exhaust that runs from behind the cats (hence cat-back) to the tips. It is still debated but as a rule of thumb it seems that the downpipe is the more restrictive of the two. The stock cat-back flows quite well given the circumstances and can be seen on multiple 350+HP cars without issue. The golden rule for exhausts on our cars is downpipe for power, cat-back for sound. (Note: Turbobacks are both combined AKA a full system)

-Downpipes: Here are just a few examples of popular downpipe options available ranging from 2.25-3.0 inches.

• Depo Racing (http://www.deporacing.us/shop/ford/ford-fiesta-st-3-downpipe-hi-flow-cat-100-cel/)
• Cobb (http://www.cobbtuning.com/products/exhaust/ford-fiesta-st-catted-downpipe)
• DHM (http://deadhookmotorsports.com/Fies...Motorsports-HiFlow-Catless-Fiesta-ST-DownPipe)

-Cat-backs: Here are just a few examples of popular cat-back options available.

• C-PE (http://cp-e.com/webstore2/product/ford-fiesta-st-nexus-3-cat-back-exhaust/)
• Cobb (http://www.cobbtuning.com/products/exhaust/ford-fiesta-st-cat-back-exhaust-system)
• MPRB (http://mbrpautomotive.com/index.php?page=products&part=S4202AL)
• FSWerks (http://www.fswerks.com/collections/...ealth-exhaust-system-ford-fiesta-st-1-6l-2014)

Intercoolers: Turbochargers create heat? and a lot of it. In order to cool the intake charge our cars utilize air to air intercoolers. Most tuners require an intercooler for Stage 2 tunes as it allows you to make more power consistently, pull after pull. Below are a couple different options for intercoolers as well as one option for racecars only(!!).

-Intercoolers: Here are just a few examples of popular intercooler options available.

• Depo (http://www.deporacing.us/shop/ford/2013-ford-fiesta-st-3-intercooler-upgrade/)
• Cobb (https://www.cobbtuning.com/products/cooling/ford-intercooler-upgrade-fiesta-st-2014-2016)
• CP-E (http://cp-e.com/webstore2/product/ford-fiesta-st-δcore-front-mount-intercooler/)
• DHM "race" (http://deadhookmotorsports.com/Fies...ok-Motorsports-Fiesta-ST-Race-Intercooler-Kit)

AUX Fuel: I won?t get into the operation of a direct injection engine too much but basically there are two fuel pumps, a high pressure and a low pressure. For our engines the high pressure fuel pump has a really hard time flowing high rates of fuel at low RPM high load scenarios as well as high hp applications. There is only one viable option to getting more fuel and it is linked below. (Not needed for most Bolt-on applications)

?Stratified: (http://www.stratifiedauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=117_124&products_id=306)

Water/meth: Race gas is awesome right? Yes, it is. But the problem is nobody is going to be normally running race gas in our cars as A. It?s expensive and B. It?s not a racecar. The list of benefits that a water/meth setup are vast but mainly you will see lower intake charge temps and will have the ability to advance timing. There are few good options for this but it may require a good amount of install work and adjusting to get right but are extremely rewarding.

AEM-V2: (http://deadhookmotorsports.com/Fiesta-ST/Fiesta-ST-Fuel-System/AEM-V2-WMI)

***DISCLAIMER: These are NOT the only products available. They are just "examples" of some popular products used. Please don't reply with individual parts that I didn't list.

Common phrases:
AP/AP3- Cobb Access-Port
FMIC- Front Mount Intercooler
NVH- Noise, Vibration, and Harshness
Canned/Off-the-shelf tunes- tunes that aren?t specifically made for your car rather for similar modifications
HPFP- High Pressure fuel pump
DMF- Dual Mass Flywheel
SMF- Single Mass Flywheel
FWD- Front wheel drive
LSD- Limited Slip Differential

*Will Update Later*

 

[Goingnowherefast]

TIRES AND HANDLING

TIRES:

DISCLAIMER: Most of the information was found here: (http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=162254) Credit goes to Gavin @TireRack

Ask anyone who races or builds cars and ask them what the single most important thing you can do to your car is. Chances are they will say one thing: Tires. One of the first modifications to any car should be tires. Tires should be sized and selected based on your needs and budget. I would HIGHLY recommend getting a set of winter tires if you live in somewhere prone to snow and cold conditions and NEVER EVER drive any summer rated tires in snow and extremely cold temperatures. Below are a few a good examples of tires that fit many different budgets and needs...

What I would recommend in selecting tires is find out what you want in a tire? Do you want a track-able tire? All-Season? High-Performance? Noise level? Wear-rating? Find out what you?re looking for and then search online afterwards. There are tons of online resources and reviews on tires.

Extreme Performance Summer Tires: Tires for those looking for the best possible street legal performance. These tires have the best grip out of all other street legal categories, but sacrifice things like noise, wear-ratings, and wet performance. NOT TO BE DRIVEN IN COLD/SNOWY CONDITIONS
-RE-71R
-Dunlop Direzza DZII
-Hankook Ventus R-S3 V2
-Bridgestone Potenza RE-11
-BF Goodrich g-force Rivals
-Yokohama Advan neova AD-08
-Bridgestone Potenza RE-71

Ultra-high performance summer tire: Great performing tires that give a little bit of grip up for better wear, noise and wet performance over the Extreme performance tires. NOT TO BE DRIVEN IN COLD/SNOWY CONDITIONS
-Hankook Ventus V12 Evo
-Michelin Pilot Super Sport
-BF Goodrich g-force Sport Comp 2
-Sumitomo HTR ZIII
-Continental Extreme Contact DW

Performance All-Season: Versatile tires that provide a compromise between performance and comforts/wear. Can be used in colder temperatures, but I would still recommend winter tires.
-Continental Extreme Contact DWS
-Bridgestone Potenza RE970AS Pole Position
-Michelin Pilot Sport A/S3+


Brief Handling Guide:

 

[Goingnowherefast]

Reserved 1 2 3

 

[Hijinx]

So far, this is great and should be a sticky [MENTION=1333]BoostBumps[/MENTION]. I have one correction for you: only Stratified offers their own canned/OTS tune. DHMs Stage 2+ and ST280 packages offer e-tuning or dyno tuning. A couple suggestions: dyno tuning followed by street tuning will get that 100%; Extreme Performance tires not meant to be driven in temperatures below 40?, maybe look into adding R-comp, slicks, and drag radials; there are also various boost control devices out there. If you need any info/help when you get to the turbo and engine department, feel free to PM me. On the whole, this seems to be shaping up into a good resource. 10/10!


Some Guy On The Internet

 

[ron@whoosh]

I would have started this completely different - as a quick thought for the beginner that is just starting out
list the available options as a resource for new owners/modders

first mods should be:

Stage 1
1.) Tune
2.) Oil Catch Can
3.) Spark Plugs gapped correctly
4.) Drop in Air Filter
5.) Front Mount Intercooler upgrade
6.) Upgraded Rear Motor Mount

Stage 2
1.) downpipe
2.) exhaust
3.) intercooler charge pipe upgrade
4.) diverter valve upgrade or BOV
5.) intake kit

Stage 3
1.) hybrid turbo upgrade
2.) meth injection or Aux fuel for maximum benefit of the turbo upgrade

 

[Spaceman_Spiff]

I like this, good info. I would add "AP" and "FMIC" to the phrases. Nicely done, I'm sure this'll get sticky-ed.

 

[BoostBumps]

Nicely done [MENTION=4011]Goingnowherefast[/MENTION]

Thread stickied...

 

[BoostBumps]

List of forum mods / upgrade polls...

These polls below should provide a general idea of what our members have chosen as far as modifications...

Intake Systems:

Which Intake upgrade do you currently have installed?

Exhaust Systems:

Which Fiesta ST Exhaust System did you purchase?

Intercoolers:

Which Fiesta ST Intercooler did you choose?

Turbos:

Which Turbo Upgrade do you "currently" have installed?

Tunes:

What Tune are you using on your Fiesta ST?

Tires:

What is your favorite Fiesta ST tire brand?

 

[Theophilus]

Tired of getting passed by V6 minivans?

This..

Thank you for the excellent write up Goingnowherefast!

I have not yet gotten a Access Port yet until my warranty is up, but during the time until I do,
i'm trying to read as much as I can on tunes, tuning, and what to expect with the AP!

+1 !!!

 

[Kazz]

Excellent collection of information! However, I think that, in order to answer the questions you posed:

So you want to make your slow car fast? Tired of getting passed by V6 minivans?

that the following thread is extremely important:

http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/...rld-performance-Let-s-get-to-the-nitty-gritty

 

[danbfree]

OK, so not my first rodeo with 1.6L DI Turbo cars, I just traded in a '16 Forte5 SX not because of power but because of default audio, handling and gas mileage is so much better with the FiST, I really didn't want to spend tons of money on a Kia, although I must say was rock solid reliable, not a single squeak or rattle in one year, 17k miles, AND since it wasa '16 and not 17+ it did have a bigger turbo for more potential, oh well, here I am and happier with my zippy little ride...

So it looks like a little has changed in the year plus since this, lots of OTS tunes from other tuners including them Mountoune and others when selling an AP, etc but seems like to get much more than 25HP gain you have to go turbo upgrade... So what turbo/hybrid (they called them "stuffed" in Hyundai/Kia land) offer the least amount of lag but a nice improvement over stock? I know there is the Mountune 265 kit or whatnot, but I really just want about 225 at the wheels, don't want to go too crazy on this small platform... so x27? Cyborg hybrid? Any good all in one packages other than Mountune? I already have nine vendors in my new bookmarks folder but I'd like to get something where it's almost plug n play without too many other requirements, literally turbo tune, maybe spark plugs if needed you know, just not sure what other weak spots need to be addressed, I'm sure I'd go FMIC and intake too, but really don't want to do too much more, maybe 100 cell downpipe...

Also, any new free/cheap first mods like "remove the rubber weatherstripping from inside your hood for better airflow to lower under hood temps", remove the snorkel, swap out this sensor for this mustang one, anything like that can help?

 

[Phishy]

I took the under hood insulation off for a little more noise. That stuff always annoys me. That's about the only freebie stuff I could think of. You can hog out the snorkel to the airbox a bit but I didnt want to start permanently hacking anything yet.

A good DIY wax, clay bar, detail type thing is sort of free and usually worth the effort.

 

[Phishy]

Just realized how old this thread is. Oops. Some decent info in here anyway for the newbs to these cars like myself.

 

[danbfree]

Just realized how old this thread is. Oops. Some decent info in here anyway for the newbs to these cars like myself.

Someone has to keep these oldies but goodies alive... After being a new owner almost a year and a half ago, it should be reassuring to a new owner that a Cobb AP and basic tune is really not so hard on these cars at all. Just a drop in, shroud cut that no one will ever see are the 2 best things to do new. I also prefer removing the Symposer along with a simple muffler to glasspack swap for real sound that won't really drone when cruising along, would be good cheap mods too.

 

[Phishy]

Someone has to keep these oldies but goodies alive... After being a new owner almost a year and a half ago, it should be reassuring to a new owner that a Cobb AP and basic tune is really not so hard on these cars at all. Just a drop in, shroud cut that no one will ever see are the 2 best things to do new. I also prefer removing the Symposer along with a simple muffler to glasspack swap for real sound that won't really drone when cruising along, would be good cheap mods too.

I have had my 17 for almost 3 months now. Chipping away at little stuff. RMM, tint and PPF, ST200 airbox and drop in, short shifter, hot side pipe, inlet elbow and crossover pipe. Mudflaps, and tranny fluid tomorrow, in that order. Cheap shit that gives me little projects to do every few weekends, and mostly stuff I can really feel and notice.

This car is not a mess without any of these things but they all enhance the experiance day to day subtly or slightly towards something bigger down the road.

The RMM and the short shifter have to be about the best bang for the buck mods for this car in terms of noticeable improvement. I am sure the AP will be on this list too even with a much larger initial outlay.

 

[danbfree]

I have had my 17 for almost 3 months now. Chipping away at little stuff. RMM, tint and PPF, ST200 airbox and drop in, short shifter, hot side pipe, inlet elbow and crossover pipe. Mudflaps, and tranny fluid tomorrow, in that order. Cheap shit that gives me little projects to do every few weekends, and mostly stuff I can really feel and notice.

This car is not a mess without any of these things but they all enhance the experiance day to day subtly or slightly towards something bigger down the road.

The RMM and the short shifter have to be about the best bang for the buck mods for this car in terms of noticeable improvement. I am sure the AP will be on this list too even with a much larger initial outlay.

You can tell by my signature that I have most of the same mods as well and highly agree that RMM and short shifter are the first mods to do, as well as 2L of trans fluid as first maintenance item. Don't forget the upper engine mount inserts and/or traction bar if you go tuned, they make a HUGE difference when running anything higher than stock power. Yes, it's kind of steep but $400 for a used AP and $75 for a smooth and safe Dizzy tune are WELL worth every penny!

 

[scooter123]

Also a newbie to turbos and agree 100% that a RMM should be the very first MOD. Washed the car one weekend and pulling out I had smooth pavement and no traiffic to contend with so flipped the traction controlled off and rolled into the gas in second gear. BANG BANG BANG BANG plus wheel hop. Have a COBB RMM and a bunch of other items ready to install tomorrow. Not going to bother with a short shifter, first car was a 1970 Beetle and the throw in the FIST is microscopic compared to an air cooled Beetle.

 

[danbfree]

Also a newbie to turbos and agree 100% that a RMM should be the very first MOD. Washed the car one weekend and pulling out I had smooth pavement and no traiffic to contend with so flipped the traction controlled off and rolled into the gas in second gear. BANG BANG BANG BANG plus wheel hop. Have a COBB RMM and a bunch of other items ready to install tomorrow. Not going to bother with a short shifter, first car was a 1970 Beetle and the throw in the FIST is microscopic compared to an air cooled Beetle.

Just an RMM is fine if you aren't tuned, or only tuned on pump, but these things make so much torque so quickly that upper mount inserts and traction bars REALLY help a lot as well... As far as the Cobb, it's definitely better than stock but also the very softest aftermarket you can get but will still be a nice improvement for sure... As far a the short shifter, well, definitely personal choice, I found the throws to be too long personally so I went with one that offers a 20% reduction, which is just about right, but most importantly it did improve shift accuracy as well. These transmissions are good overall, but it can definitely vary just how good they "feel" from the factory, as many times they are under-filled. So it's suggested that even with a brand new car to change out to 2L of fluid, Ravenol MTF-2 being a very common Ford approved gear oil that did personally help my gearbox a lot!

 

[SerialBrain2]

I have been modding for many years on many cars and many thousands of $ later I feel there is a right way to do it, and I will tell you why. First I personally do not like modding any car beyond its capabilties to be driven daily. So bare this in mind. I prefer to increase power AND increase durabilty and drivability. I dont like rebuilding the drive train to support the increase in power. I dont like working on the car every weekend hunting down oil leaks, boost leaks, coolant leaks, cel's, and various noises. So here is the path forward for the daily driven Fiesta ST while keeping your weekends free from jack stands and socket sets.
1. Rear motor mount. Keeps the engine from moving too much, which reduces the amount of flex and bend to all the pipes, tubes, hoses, mounts, and electrical connections.
2. Drop in foam air filter. Cheapest and best way to open up the airway. If you want a different noise then spend away.
3. Bolt upgrade for passenger motor mount. An ounce of preventative maintenance is worth a pound of cure.
4. Intercooler upgrade. I recommend a tube and fin style because it allows more air flow through it reaching the radiator and condensor.
5. Place a wire mesh on the bottom grill to prevent flying debris from smacking an intercooler tube (ruining it)
6. Replace the lug nuts with tuner style open ended ones, the OEM have a tendency to swell over time till one day a 19mm socket will not fit
7. Place foam tape across the top and bottom of the OEM radiator fan shroud to greatly increase cooling efficiency (might not even need that radiator upgrade)
8. Diverter valve/ Blow off valve. Stock doesnt seal as well as after market ones.
9. Symposer delete. Remove additional place for boost leaks to emerge.
10. Tune ( Cobb access port, 1 step colder plugs gapped to 0.28)

IMO the exhaust, downpipe, air intake, and intercooler pipes are perfectly fine with the stock turbo (even superior), but one particular item out of the whole assortment of pipes and hoses I recommend updating is the one rubber hose coming off the turbo itself. Update it to a silcone hose 4 or 5 ply 2" opening by 3" long. That is where I experience the most boost leakage and the clamps on that hose need to be extremely tight, to the point it could tear a rubber hose. All the other worm clamps work great and the diverter valve upgrade will help keep the boost where it needs to go...into the intake chamber.

 

[danbfree]

I have been modding for many years on many cars and many thousands of $ later I feel there is a right way to do it, and I will tell you why. First I personally do not like modding any car beyond its capabilties to be driven daily. So bare this in mind. I prefer to increase power AND increase durabilty and drivability. I dont like rebuilding the drive train to support the increase in power. I dont like working on the car every weekend hunting down oil leaks, boost leaks, coolant leaks, cel's, and various noises. So here is the path forward for the daily driven Fiesta ST while keeping your weekends free from jack stands and socket sets.
1. Rear motor mount. Keeps the engine from moving too much, which reduces the amount of flex and bend to all the pipes, tubes, hoses, mounts, and electrical connections.
2. Drop in foam air filter. Cheapest and best way to open up the airway. If you want a different noise then spend away.
3. Bolt upgrade for passenger motor mount. An ounce of preventative maintenance is worth a pound of cure.
4. Intercooler upgrade. I recommend a tube and fin style because it allows more air flow through it reaching the radiator and condensor.
5. Place a wire mesh on the bottom grill to prevent flying debris from smacking an intercooler tube (ruining it)
6. Replace the lug nuts with tuner style open ended ones, the OEM have a tendency to swell over time till one day a 19mm socket will not fit
7. Place foam tape across the top and bottom of the OEM radiator fan shroud to greatly increase cooling efficiency (might not even need that radiator upgrade)
8. Diverter valve/ Blow off valve. Stock doesnt seal as well as after market ones.
9. Symposer delete. Remove additional place for boost leaks to emerge.
10. Tune ( Cobb access port, 1 step colder plugs gapped to 0.28)

IMO the exhaust, downpipe, air intake, and intercooler pipes are perfectly fine with the stock turbo (even superior), but one particular item out of the whole assortment of pipes and hoses I recommend updating is the one rubber hose coming off the turbo itself. Update it to a silcone hose 4 or 5 ply 2" opening by 3" long. That is where I experience the most boost leakage and the clamps on that hose need to be extremely tight, to the point it could tear a rubber hose. All the other worm clamps work great and the diverter valve upgrade will help keep the boost where it needs to go...into the intake chamber.

Excellent list! To add:

-Immediately drain and refill transmission with 2L of real full synthetic GL4 gear oil whether brand new or old (unless you know for sure it's been done already of course). Factory uses DCT fluid for convenience with the shit box DCT being installed in the same factory AND comes under-filled. You will not believe the difference in shift feel and avoid developing gear whine.

- If you do the symposer delete, your car will be dangerously quiet inside with no engine feedback at all, you will find yourself subconsciously stepping on it and driving too fast without the feedback. So while exhaust mods makes nearly zero power gains, a simple glasspack muffler swap on the rear sounds good and deep and gives you decent feedback without drone or excess noise.

- Just a hotside pipe with resonator delete helps spool a touch and adds justa touch of nice whoosh noises without being loud at all.

-If you are planning on tuning and going with e30+ tunes, you probably will want to do the PowerFlex inserts for the upper motor mounts and not do just the RMM. Especially if you are going to upgrade the passenger side bolt anyway, but you really should do both sides to avoid feeling peg-legged under hard throttle by just doing passenger side only. The driver side is a bit of a pain to do, but so worth upgrading all 3 mounts and the inserts for the uppers are only $80 for both. This help traction and torques steer significantly, and adding a traction bar or torque gusset helps even more and in cornering itself too.

- For budget suspension upgrades, go with either Eibach springs for an incredible difference in ride quality or Swift Spec-R for most all out performance, not much need to do more. The stock shocks are both too stiff and too high, and between these 2 choices of springs you get the proper balance depending on which is more important. Keep in mind no matter what is listed, the Eibach is a full 1.1"/1.0" drop much like the Swift but does not rub or scrape much at all even with more suspension travel with it's progressive rate

For your #7 foam tape thing, can you describe it better where t tape or have pics? I really want to try this! I'm also considering cutting the excess flaps and crap off the fan shroud itself too.