Stratified Flash Tune Review

[TUX15ST]

Yeah i dont know exact but i kinda feel like it would be, its a very violent engine breaking compared to normal, i noticed it right away

 

[Bluedrank]

Id be very interested to hear why the engine braking is so much more pronounced. So there's a surge of some sort before the engine starts the CnP?

 

[TUX15ST]

As soon as you let off the throttle in gear it actually jerks you forward slightly from the engine breaking, never did it before the v3 pnc

 

[OffTheWall503]

I was wondering if this might be because of the Cobb TC, however I changed to a tune with only the Cobb TC and that issue was no longer there.

 

[OCS12]

As soon as you let off the throttle in gear it actually jerks you forward slightly from the engine breaking, never did it before the v3 pnc

I was starting to wonder if that was my imagination. Very subtle, but noticeable.

 

[grnmachine02]

I noticed that this morning, as well. Seems to only do it when cold? We finally dipped into the 40's the past two mornings, and it seems to have a little hitch in the giddyup between shifts.

Of course I'm also on the stock RMM, so that could have something to do with it as well.

 

[TUX15ST]

I never noticed the temperature making any difference

 

[Joker328]

I suspect it is a function of how the tune is creating the crackles. As I understand it, crackles are typically the result of unburnt fuel combusting in the hot exhaust. This is also why race car exhausts sometimes have flames out the back with a loud pop sound during shifts. The reason for the unburnt fuel is probably a throttle that closes before the fuel is fully cut (though it could also be spark/timing related I think). Now, the typical OEM programming will not slam the throttle closed for emissions reasons and because the pop sound is unpleasant to most people. But I suspect the crackles tune has a more aggressive throttle closure programmed with a little fuel overrun to create the sound. I assume it's the abrupt throttle closure and associated engine braking that you are feeling.

 

[jeff]

You guys might have known this already but in order to take full advantage of your Cobb Traction Control option you need to have the factory ESC button off ("Sport" mode). Otherwise the factory TC and Cobb TC are both working at once. The Cobb TC (tuned in by tuner, in this case Stratified) does its work via the ECU limiting throttle whereas the factory TC does its work by applying brakes (hence all the brake dust). The Cobb TC is far superior to the factory TC so in order to get everything out of the car you'll need to make sure you disable factory TC.

I had a great conversation with [MENTION=4300]Alex@Stratified[/MENTION] yesterday and he explained all this to me. I assumed that the tune/Cobb TC bypassed or shut off the factory TC but that is not the case, which Alex helped me understand. He was very nice/helpful and this further increased my high opinion of Stratified Tuning.

 

[TUX15ST]

Weird i had gotten an email from someone else at strat about the cobb tc and he told me that cobb tc was active in all drive modes and it didnt matter whether or not esc was on or off but what your saying makes more sense especially if it came from alex.

 

[jeff]

Weird i had gotten an email from someone else at strat about the cobb tc and he told me that cobb tc was active in all drive modes and it didnt matter whether or not esc was on or off but what your saying makes more sense especially if it came from alex.

It is active in all drive modes, but you need to switch the factory TC off or they will both be active. If that's the case the factory TC would eliminate the benefits of the Cobb TC since it limits power more.

 

[LilPartyBox]

as I understood it, he's saying the Cobb TC is always active but so is OEM TC. He's suggesting turning off the oem TC so that Cobb becomes the only source of TC.

I wonder if this Cobb TC is active on their OTS tunes.

Edit: haha we posted at the exact same time so yea, what he said

 

[BiigMe]

You guys might have known this already but in order to take full advantage of your Cobb Traction Control option you need to have the factory ESC button off ("Sport" mode). Otherwise the factory TC and Cobb TC are both working at once. The Cobb TC (tuned in by tuner, in this case Stratified) does its work via the ECU limiting throttle whereas the factory TC does its work by applying brakes (hence all the brake dust). The Cobb TC is far superior to the factory TC so in order to get everything out of the car you'll need to make sure you disable factory TC.

I had a great conversation with [MENTION=4300]Alex@Stratified[/MENTION] yesterday and he explained all this to me. I assumed that the tune/Cobb TC bypassed or shut off the factory TC but that is not the case, which Alex helped me understand. He was very nice/helpful and this further increased my high opinion of Stratified Tuning.

Thanks for that tip, I thought I was imagining the difference between stock and sport greatly increased with this tune

 

[OffTheWall503]

Are you sure that's correct? I asked Stratified about it and he said you didn't have to do anything.

In the new firmware for the AP3 though, you can change the TC modifier, 1-3 being the options I believe. I wonder if you can actually change it or if it's based off the tune.

 

[TUX15ST]

See this is what i was told as well^ but it wasnt from alex, just some junior tech so who knows

 

[LilPartyBox]

This marks the second time there's been differing stories from Strat. Is Alex the only one who knows anything over there? I'm considering their OTS with log review but this kind of frequent internal confusion gives me doubts...

 

[TUX15ST]

Its hard to go wrong for $30ish lol

 

[LilPartyBox]

if only! more like $100ish. It's not the money as much as no one there seems to be 100% sure what my money will buy lol

 

[TUX15ST]

Oh yeah i forgot you didnt have the tune from them already so $60ish, dont worry about the log review, the flash tunes are super safe just look at your own logs

 

[M-Sport fan]

This is also why race car exhausts sometimes have flames out the back with a loud pop sound during shifts. The reason for the unburnt fuel is probably a throttle that closes before the fuel is fully cut (though it could also be spark/timing related I think).

On naturally aspirated race cars at least, this is also the result of (a) very high overlap cam(s) on throttle closure, as well.