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Starting to Think about a Race Car Sized Rear Sway Bar

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Fusion Works

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Thread Starter #42
Oh, gotcha. Personally I don't like the add in bars within the beam because of the way they mount with one little bolt on each side. Why not just get the rotation I want out of a single bar? Less stuff to tote around, less stuff to wear and trouble to track down if there is an issue, etc. A single bar is fairly easy to make and it just bolts on like my current Eibach bar.
 


D1JL

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#43
On my FiST, I had the Eibach rear bar as well as the Pierce in Twist-Beam bar.
The Pierce bar is a rendition of the Steeda bar designed for the non-ST however no side bolt drilling is required.
If I was to do it over again, I would use only the DNA bar as shown above.
The DNA bar is adjustable so your exact requirements can be set.
 


WannabeST

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#44
Oh, gotcha. Personally I don't like the add in bars within the beam because of the way they mount with one little bolt on each side. Why not just get the rotation I want out of a single bar? Less stuff to tote around, less stuff to wear and trouble to track down if there is an issue, etc. A single bar is fairly easy to make and it just bolts on like my current Eibach bar.
that's a fair point. I like making my cars as simple as possible too
 


OP
Fusion Works

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Thread Starter #45
On my FiST, I had the Eibach rear bar as well as the Pierce in Twist-Beam bar.
The Pierce bar is a rendition of the Steeda bar designed for the non-ST however no side bolt drilling is required.
If I was to do it over again, I would use only the DNA bar as shown above.
The DNA bar is adjustable so your exact requirements can be set.

I kinda like the DNA race spec bar, but am not super thrilled anchoring the bar to the beam like they do. I am afraid I haven't spent enough time studying the kinematics of the twist beam. Picked up a couple of white papers, but life has gotten in the way of reading them. I like the ability to remove the preload at ride height though.

The VWs use to use a clamp on rear bar, which would be an option. They used something like .250in flat bar and bent it into a hook for one side and used a pinch clamp on the other side of the bar. It seemed to work well. To me looks stronger than the one dinky bolt the DNA bar has.
 


M-Sport fan

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#47
Can concur, ride is pretty terrible. LOL. My own fault, haven't pulled the 450/550 setup off and its pretty brutal on some elevated road way type bumps. Its ok on smooth roads, but it will bounce you pretty hard. HAHA. When I get the Radical out of the way I will pull it in the shop and experiment with pulling the Eibach rear bar, just to test your theory. (Plus I need it for a template)
Do you own/race the Radical, or is it a customer's ride?
 


Dialcaliper

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#48
Here is a video from the guy who had Misha drive his Fiesta around the ring.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCUWR0H218Q


Not a fan of the way the bar bolts on with one bolt.
Bolting scheme isn't that well thought out. Also amused, because the "silent blocks" use a polymer spherical bearing that I recognize, which are meant to be run dry, and the rotating surface is the outer ball. Then watching the guy grease the inner surface... :eek:
 


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#52
That's persistence Brett! Lookin' good, weld-er UP :cool:!

Just out of curiosity, did you consider making this sway bar out of hollow 4130 chromoly and slightly larger diameter to save a few lbs of weight?
 


OP
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Thread Starter #53
Yeah if I needed more bar I thought about building one out of something like 1.25 tube. I have used that in the past for the sway bars on my Integra. Have .095 and .125 wall 4130 bars.

I ran the bar today at Barber. Car was better. More later and I even have videos. HAHA
 


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