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Meaty Tires Thread
- Thread starter airjor13
- Start date
- Tags don't like rubber band low profile no need to apply meaty tires yummmm
Looks great
Kind of mini meaty, moderately meaty, still much more meat than stock!
Really like the wheels, 16's and 15's just seem right for this car and those are very good wheels for the money as well.
Kind of mini meaty, moderately meaty, still much more meat than stock!
Really like the wheels, 16's and 15's just seem right for this car and those are very good wheels for the money as well.
Thanks again for the recommendation.
Glad I could help
If not for finding out the 16x8 RPF1, more than double the price, I would of ran the Konig Feathers in 16x7 for my new all season setup, the Feathers in 17x7 are great wheels but I got tired of the bone jarring ride of 17's. Konig makes some of the best wheels for the money one can find.
Their Maxxim line is the same quality in what I have seen so far and I like the style of the Winner, it goes really well with this car.
If not for finding out the 16x8 RPF1, more than double the price, I would of ran the Konig Feathers in 16x7 for my new all season setup, the Feathers in 17x7 are great wheels but I got tired of the bone jarring ride of 17's. Konig makes some of the best wheels for the money one can find.
Their Maxxim line is the same quality in what I have seen so far and I like the style of the Winner, it goes really well with this car.
Question for anyone on here with TD Pro Race 1.2's - were your wheels insanely tight on the hubs? I put mine on the car today and one of them slipped right on, flush to the rotor, like stock, but the other three wouldn't go all the way by hand (not even a little bit really). I was able to tighten each lugnut on each wheel 1/4 turn at a time and they kept creeping on, eventually getting flush with the rotor, but this doesn't see quite right. I hit up PCA-1 and he recommended I take them to a machine shop for a bore check and correction if needed, and would seek reimbursement from TD on what I have to pay for, but I just wanted to see if anyone else had this issue.
Hey man, thanks. The hubs themselves were actually really clean - no rust to speak of as the car is only a couple of months old with 500 miles on it so far. The insides of the hub bores were clean as well. The hubs themselves were so clean they still have actual grease on them from the assembly line. When I say they were tight, I mean they were TIGHT. They obviously fit because hand tightening lugnuts with a short breaker bar isn't going to shred/compress metal, but I literally had to move nut to nut tightening in a cross pattern about 1/4 turn each, over and over, until it finally sat flush on the rotor.
After I was done I did check with the wheel off the ground for side to side play and there was none, no more rotor "clunk" from the wheels not being flush either. I spun each wheel around numerous times and it looks flush all the way around. My concerns are:
1. They were bored slightly off which is why they are too tight and they could eventually cause stress fractures in the hub ring, or the wheel itself.
2. Tightening them the way I did janked up my wheel studs and I'm running on stretched/fatigued wheel studs and/or lug nuts and they will give out.
I went for a short drive after installing them and I have no vibrations or noises and the car turns left and right just fine, no off-center wheel, no wheel trying to yank out of my hands, no vibrating steering wheel when I let go at speed. Granted I didn't get over 65mph, but things felt solid, I'm just more concerned about the long term repercussions that could happen.
I can't stress enough either that this was only 3 out of 4 wheels. The one I put on the right rear literally went all the way to the rotor just like the stock rims without a single problem - no added pressure at all. The other three were all the same though, 1/4 turn -> opposite stud 1/4 turn -> counterclockwise one -> quarter turn -> opposite stud -> quarter turn, etc. Every time I got to a new stud I was able to turn without shit loads of pressure so it was in fact pulling them on the hub ring, but still, I've never run into this before and it has me concerned. I would have stopped outright if they weren't moving in slowly like they were, but now that I'm done and the wheels are down on the ground I can't help but be concerned about what happens in 100 miles.
I'll put it this way, when I pull the lugs off next time I'm in no danger of the wheel just falling off. I'll likely need a rubber mallet to get them back off again, or some swift kicks to the tires.
After I was done I did check with the wheel off the ground for side to side play and there was none, no more rotor "clunk" from the wheels not being flush either. I spun each wheel around numerous times and it looks flush all the way around. My concerns are:
1. They were bored slightly off which is why they are too tight and they could eventually cause stress fractures in the hub ring, or the wheel itself.
2. Tightening them the way I did janked up my wheel studs and I'm running on stretched/fatigued wheel studs and/or lug nuts and they will give out.
I went for a short drive after installing them and I have no vibrations or noises and the car turns left and right just fine, no off-center wheel, no wheel trying to yank out of my hands, no vibrating steering wheel when I let go at speed. Granted I didn't get over 65mph, but things felt solid, I'm just more concerned about the long term repercussions that could happen.
I can't stress enough either that this was only 3 out of 4 wheels. The one I put on the right rear literally went all the way to the rotor just like the stock rims without a single problem - no added pressure at all. The other three were all the same though, 1/4 turn -> opposite stud 1/4 turn -> counterclockwise one -> quarter turn -> opposite stud -> quarter turn, etc. Every time I got to a new stud I was able to turn without shit loads of pressure so it was in fact pulling them on the hub ring, but still, I've never run into this before and it has me concerned. I would have stopped outright if they weren't moving in slowly like they were, but now that I'm done and the wheels are down on the ground I can't help but be concerned about what happens in 100 miles.
I'll put it this way, when I pull the lugs off next time I'm in no danger of the wheel just falling off. I'll likely need a rubber mallet to get them back off again, or some swift kicks to the tires.
That is exceptionally tight then, you probably should pull them off and at least sand the hubs and lightly the bore on the wheels(just a tiny bit) a bit or you might be in trouble if you get a flat and cannot take the wheel off on the side of the road.
Also check to ensure on burs on the hubs or wheels causing at least part of this issue.
It sounds like they seated all the way or they would wobble and shake.
In most ways tighter is better but not to tight
Rick
Also check to ensure on burs on the hubs or wheels causing at least part of this issue.
It sounds like they seated all the way or they would wobble and shake.
In most ways tighter is better but not to tight
Rick
That is exceptionally tight then, you probably should pull them off and at least sand the hubs and lightly the bore on the wheels(just a tiny bit) a bit or you might be in trouble if you get a flat and cannot take the wheel off on the side of the road.
Also check to ensure on burs on the hubs or wheels causing at least part of this issue.
It sounds like they seated all the way or they would wobble and shake.
In most ways tighter is better but not to tight
Rick
Also check to ensure on burs on the hubs or wheels causing at least part of this issue.
It sounds like they seated all the way or they would wobble and shake.
In most ways tighter is better but not to tight
Rick
Also, doesn't sound like you have too much concern for actually damaging things so that's good considering your experience with mods and whatnot. I took it for another ride about 30 minutes ago, sustained 60-65mph, and still can't say I felt anything off, so I feel a little more at ease, at least for now.
Don't take a Dremel to your new wheels please! You need to pick up a micrometer to measure the bore of the wheels and the hub size to see what is going on. Be careful forcing aluminum like that. I would look to TD and PCA to make this right for you. Unless it is so minimal that you can hand sand the surface to make them fit, I would look to a professional or have them replaced by the company.
A wobble would likely be felt the most from somewhere around 50-60MPH or a bit higher, like a tire out of balance so they are probably seated all the way. Out of round will give a different feel but you should not be having that issue.
I would check for burs first, hubs and wheels, find some sand them off or use a light file, only the bur needs to be removed.
Test fit the wheels, if OK, done if not OK or did not find burs, then do the next steps.
On the wheels I would use a strip of emery cloth, 100 or 200 grit, etc....with as many fingers as you can hold it with and lightly rub the insides fo the hole in back and forth, not in and out of the hole, keep moving around the hole, just want to lightly take off a little dab, this will help control it and not take much off anywhere.
Test fit the wheels, if OK, done, if not then I would do the hubs with a longer strip of cloth you can wrap half way around and hold an end in each hand and pull back and forth and work your way around the hub, have to dodge the studs while doing so. I would just do this a bit to ensure smooth.
Test fit again, OK, great, if not then try a bit more on the bores in the wheels.
Note, since such a tight fit it would be wise to look at the studs when placing the wheels on the hubs to ensure lined up with the stud holes in the wheels to keep the threads from catching and making it harder to get things going, might want to check the holes for any burs as well.
If this process does not work then time to consider more drastic measures but before you do anything further check with the vendor, they might not want you to even touch up the inside of the wheel bores.
I would check for burs first, hubs and wheels, find some sand them off or use a light file, only the bur needs to be removed.
Test fit the wheels, if OK, done if not OK or did not find burs, then do the next steps.
On the wheels I would use a strip of emery cloth, 100 or 200 grit, etc....with as many fingers as you can hold it with and lightly rub the insides fo the hole in back and forth, not in and out of the hole, keep moving around the hole, just want to lightly take off a little dab, this will help control it and not take much off anywhere.
Test fit the wheels, if OK, done, if not then I would do the hubs with a longer strip of cloth you can wrap half way around and hold an end in each hand and pull back and forth and work your way around the hub, have to dodge the studs while doing so. I would just do this a bit to ensure smooth.
Test fit again, OK, great, if not then try a bit more on the bores in the wheels.
Note, since such a tight fit it would be wise to look at the studs when placing the wheels on the hubs to ensure lined up with the stud holes in the wheels to keep the threads from catching and making it harder to get things going, might want to check the holes for any burs as well.
If this process does not work then time to consider more drastic measures but before you do anything further check with the vendor, they might not want you to even touch up the inside of the wheel bores.
I think there is definitely something wrong with those wheels. The wheels should locate off the studs( well actually the taper). There should be clearance between the hub and the wheel. I would take the car to a professional and have them figure it out. You are not going to be able to get those wheels off without doing some hammering and pounding and then you risk doing some real damage.
If the wheel hub bore is bigger than the car hub then it would locate off the studs, why we use hub centrics rings to fill the gap if the bore is larger than the hub as the wheels are supposed to locate and get their main support from the hub and flange, not the studs.
The studs are to hold the wheels on, not locate the wheels.
In this case the wheels went on but with far to much effort, just to tight.
Deburring and cleaning up any machining, which is all the sanding method I recommended would do is not going to alter the wheels proper fitment, just make it fit better, if it works.
---------------
I agree, it will take some hammering, why I have a big dead blow hammer in my race package as sometimes tight fitting hubs to bores or hub centric ring fitment is tight enough that when hot the wheels might not come off easily.
I have only driven my car in the rain a few times, before I had I had two very tight hub rings and had to use the big hammer to get the wheels off, just keep turning and tapping, not hard hammering. Once of I found a bit of rust on the hubs just from washing the car, cleaned it off as recommended, deburred, buffed the hub rings a bit, no more problem.
The studs are to hold the wheels on, not locate the wheels.
In this case the wheels went on but with far to much effort, just to tight.
Deburring and cleaning up any machining, which is all the sanding method I recommended would do is not going to alter the wheels proper fitment, just make it fit better, if it works.
---------------
I agree, it will take some hammering, why I have a big dead blow hammer in my race package as sometimes tight fitting hubs to bores or hub centric ring fitment is tight enough that when hot the wheels might not come off easily.
I have only driven my car in the rain a few times, before I had I had two very tight hub rings and had to use the big hammer to get the wheels off, just keep turning and tapping, not hard hammering. Once of I found a bit of rust on the hubs just from washing the car, cleaned it off as recommended, deburred, buffed the hub rings a bit, no more problem.
Yeah, so I went out first thing when I woke up to try and get the wheels off and, well, the wheels aren't coming off. Period.
I broke out the rubber mallet and was able to make a tiny bit of headway, but without having the car up in the air so I can hit each side equally I can't get them off myself. I have an appointment on Thursday at a local shop to do it on my behalf.
I'm really pretty upset with myself for not stopping at the first sign of resistance. I used to do this shit for a living, but it has been a long time and I honestly never really dealt with aftermarket rims that didn't have hub-centric rings. Part of my brain was screaming at me - STOP!, while the other part was rationalizing it as "well, they don't need rings and are machined to the hubs so maybe being tight is normal". I've dealt with this in the past on cars that weren't mine, either from rust or wheel damage, and we were always able to get them off with some hammering from a rubber mallet, but like I mentioned above, without being able to get to both sides of the wheel properly from behind I can't do it myself so I have an appointment for this to be taken care of.
I already contacted PCA and he said to take them to a machine shop for measuring and re-boring if necessary and provide him receipts so he can seek reimbursement from TD for me.
In the end, I highly doubt there is any serious damage and this should be more a nuisance than anything else. I didn't use any air/power tools to put them on, nor did I use some crazy huge breaker bar with tons and tons of force. I used a 12" 3/8th bar and a standard 6 point socket, which is actually shorter than the wrench that comes with the car (it's a pain in the ass to get that thing out of the hatch...), and I kind of doubt I'm strong enough to jank up the hub itself in the process. That said, the wheel studs might need to be replaced for good measure - anyone know if there is enough room to get them out without pulling the hub? I've changed plenty of wheel studs in my day and some have room to slide them out of the hub, others don't and you need to pull the whole thing, but I have no idea what the scenario is on these since I can't see back there.
Moral of the story... I'm an idiot.
EDIT:
I do just want to say that I have no ill feelings toward PCA on this. He has been stand up on it so far and I fully expect him to live up to his words. Shit happens in manufacturing sometimes and it is out of his control. I should have stopped when I felt resistance, but having never dealt with aftermarket rims that don't use hub-centric rings I just wasn't sure if this was considered normal or not. I only continued because with each turn of the lug they were moving in so they do "fit", they just don't fit the way they are supposed to. They did mount flush in the end so I figure the bore is off by like 0.01-0.02mm or something like that.
Do not take my experience as a reason not to trust buying from him for your wheels, or TD for that matter, I'm sure this is just an edge case and I got unlucky.
I broke out the rubber mallet and was able to make a tiny bit of headway, but without having the car up in the air so I can hit each side equally I can't get them off myself. I have an appointment on Thursday at a local shop to do it on my behalf.
I'm really pretty upset with myself for not stopping at the first sign of resistance. I used to do this shit for a living, but it has been a long time and I honestly never really dealt with aftermarket rims that didn't have hub-centric rings. Part of my brain was screaming at me - STOP!, while the other part was rationalizing it as "well, they don't need rings and are machined to the hubs so maybe being tight is normal". I've dealt with this in the past on cars that weren't mine, either from rust or wheel damage, and we were always able to get them off with some hammering from a rubber mallet, but like I mentioned above, without being able to get to both sides of the wheel properly from behind I can't do it myself so I have an appointment for this to be taken care of.
I already contacted PCA and he said to take them to a machine shop for measuring and re-boring if necessary and provide him receipts so he can seek reimbursement from TD for me.
In the end, I highly doubt there is any serious damage and this should be more a nuisance than anything else. I didn't use any air/power tools to put them on, nor did I use some crazy huge breaker bar with tons and tons of force. I used a 12" 3/8th bar and a standard 6 point socket, which is actually shorter than the wrench that comes with the car (it's a pain in the ass to get that thing out of the hatch...), and I kind of doubt I'm strong enough to jank up the hub itself in the process. That said, the wheel studs might need to be replaced for good measure - anyone know if there is enough room to get them out without pulling the hub? I've changed plenty of wheel studs in my day and some have room to slide them out of the hub, others don't and you need to pull the whole thing, but I have no idea what the scenario is on these since I can't see back there.
Moral of the story... I'm an idiot.
EDIT:
I do just want to say that I have no ill feelings toward PCA on this. He has been stand up on it so far and I fully expect him to live up to his words. Shit happens in manufacturing sometimes and it is out of his control. I should have stopped when I felt resistance, but having never dealt with aftermarket rims that don't use hub-centric rings I just wasn't sure if this was considered normal or not. I only continued because with each turn of the lug they were moving in so they do "fit", they just don't fit the way they are supposed to. They did mount flush in the end so I figure the bore is off by like 0.01-0.02mm or something like that.
Do not take my experience as a reason not to trust buying from him for your wheels, or TD for that matter, I'm sure this is just an edge case and I got unlucky.
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