2nd pair of rotors in 6 months - am I doing it wrong?

[SteveS]

I've always wondered just how the factory does this on a new car before delivery to the dealer, (on powered rollers??), or don't they do anything at all, and it still turns out OK?

Driven the way most bots drive their cars, the pads eventually bed in. The problem that bedding pads solves is that of installing new brakes and going right out to use them to their max. Which results in tearing up the pads faster, uneven deposits, uneven surface, or surface glazing.

 

[M0LTEN]

To me this sounds more like a caliper problem then cheap parts. even cheap parts should last longer than 6k unless your competing in road course racing.
Clean and lube the slide pins.

 

[358R]

You can see the lip on the fronts here.

 

[Jabbit]

What are we even looking at in that picture?

 

[358R]

What are we even looking at in that picture?

A picture of a rotor, taken with about 3 fingers with hand full of clothes and beer in the other hand. I was trying to illustrate the condition/depth of the previous rotors. Maybe straight on would have been a better angle.

 

[358R]

These are the OEMs

 

[Intuit]

Check the caliper slide-mounts. If they're locked, it will create excessive heat, wear, warping.

 

[Jabbit]

Yeah check the slide pins. Maybe they are trash brake pads? Also it's never too late to bed them in. If they are too far gone it won't make them worse but it has potential to improve the feel and performance.

 

[Ford ST]

The oem pads on the cars equipped with summer tires are very aggressive and will groove up the rotors. Not a big deal. Junk pads will leave uneven deposits all over the rotor creating high and low spots this equals vibration city.

Also on a side note about a month ago I posted about the slide pins. My car is going on 5 years old and they were still well lubed up.

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[TyphoonFiST]

Yeah check the slide pins. Maybe they are trash brake pads? Also it's never too late to bed them in. If they are too far gone it won't make them worse but it has potential to improve the feel and performance.

Maybe? No....those are absolute Dumpster fire Trash pads even when new....You get what you pay for in this situation. Time replace the pads....grease the pins and Correctly bed in the pads unless they come pre-bedded with a coating on them like some do. Check the piston as it slides back into its bore for any resistance. If it doesn't go nicely into its home the Calipers took too much heat and should be replaced also*

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[Magnetic]

Probably 6k miles. I'll have to check these pads when i pull them. No smoking, but car does pull left a little under hard braking.

My right side pads always get worn wayyy sooner than my left. That might be why yours is pulling left.

 

[Intuit]

My right side pads always get worn wayyy sooner than my left. That might be why yours is pulling left.

Quit braking on left turns. 😜 (/joking)

 

[Magnetic]

Quit braking on left turns. 😜 (/joking)

LoL

 

[358R]

My right side pads always get worn wayyy sooner than my left. That might be why yours is pulling left.

Hmm. Now I'm interested to see what the final verdict is.

 

[Magnetic]

Hmm. Now I'm interested to see what the final verdict is.

I think it might be related to that torque vectoring garbage they put on these cars.

 

[CarGuy]

I think it might be related to that torque vectoring garbage they put on these cars.

LOL...seriously. LOL

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[Erick_V]

I think it might be related to that torque vectoring garbage they put on these cars.

I've had the JDG module that fully disables traction 15-ish seconds after start up for almost 2 years now. It's been so long since I looked at my brakes that I went out of my way to inspect pad thickness recently and I still have so much meat left on the rears. I wouldn't put it past this.

Actually just checked and I installed my rear rotors/pads in January 2020, have 20k on them and about 50% left on the pads. I'm on Hawk HPS 5.0's. Grease those pins and at the minimum get OEM pads, no cheap stuff. I went back to OEM pads and Centric rotors in the front and I couldn't be more happy. Other than the dust they work amazing. As others have said, you get what you pay for.

 

[Sam4]

This could be in "What did you do to your ST today?", but I had no choice but to limp in to the dealership for brakes. Missed my expired inspection sticker, and the pads started shrieking at the same time. Never had the "right time" to lube the sliders in the last 2 weeks...Kennedy Ford in Conshy was good enough to listen to me say the rotors were still fine (in fact - still within tolerance), replaced pads, lubed my pins, and well, $500 bucks is the new $50.

 

[Magnetic]

I've had the JDG module that fully disables traction 15-ish seconds after start up for almost 2 years now. It's been so long since I looked at my brakes that I went out of my way to inspect pad thickness recently and I still have so much meat left on the rears. I wouldn't put it past this.

Actually just checked and I installed my rear rotors/pads in January 2020, have 20k on them and about 50% left on the pads. I'm on Hawk HPS 5.0's. Grease those pins and at the minimum get OEM pads, no cheap stuff. I went back to OEM pads and Centric rotors in the front and I couldn't be more happy. Other than the dust they work amazing. As others have said, you get what you pay for.

I replaced my brakes back in 2018 (pads & rotors F&R) with stoptech rotors and hawk 5.0 pads as well. The rears are looking like new still but the front pads and rotors were completely worn metal to metal. When I took the car to my mechanic to install the coil overs he said my right caliper was shot.

That’s the whole reason I upgraded to the EBC kit. I really hope the same thing doesn’t happen on this kit because I’m sure these rotors and pads are going to be expensive to replace.

I’m going to install a new clutch and LSD in hopes this will curb the torque vectoring stuff and allow my front breaks to were both sides more evenly.

 

[bflan2001]

I would avoid Centric blank rotors & Carbotech 1521 pads. I put a set on in May and after maybe 1k miles they were squeaking like crazy at low speed. After about 3k miles there is visible wear on the rotors. I don't know if it was the pads or the rotors but I won't be using either one anymore. Those pads were stupid expensive too, big waste of money. I'll probably end up replacing them after around 5-6k miles when they're no longer usable. When that time comes I'll be ordering OEM pads and rotors since those lasted almost 40k miles. I also learned that Ford Motorcraft parts are not OEM but actually OE-approved aftermarket, so I'll be avoiding those too.