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2nd pair of rotors in 6 months - am I doing it wrong?
- Thread starter 358R
- Start date
My driving is the opposite. Almost no freeways, mostly twisty mountain roads and I drive pretty hard everywhere. It's my weekend fun car. I think any pad will do fine for highway use. The issue with our cars is the torque vectoring and how pads hold up to that type of braking. I wish I would have tried the EBC yellows instead of the Carbotechs but I think after this experience I'll just go back to stock. I can't risk spending that kind of money again just to replace everything after a few thousand miles.
I would say be cautious of ebc organge pads (should have slightly higher heat tolarance than yellows) if you track your car. had orange fronts, yellow rears. At some point the orange melted. for street driving no problem but not as grabby as oem pads.
now on hawk dtc-30 front, hawk hp plus rears. just replaced my fronts last week and no melting plus lot longer wear. They are also as grabby as oems imo, Note they will squeak at low speeds, right before coming to a stop and get more dust, but otherwise its a usable dual street and track pad solution at least for me so far (stock power levels).
I think its definitely worth it to get quality parts and would never skimp on brakes especially.
now on hawk dtc-30 front, hawk hp plus rears. just replaced my fronts last week and no melting plus lot longer wear. They are also as grabby as oems imo, Note they will squeak at low speeds, right before coming to a stop and get more dust, but otherwise its a usable dual street and track pad solution at least for me so far (stock power levels).
I think its definitely worth it to get quality parts and would never skimp on brakes especially.
Why I am avoiding Fred Beans like the plague, since they would most likely charge even more than that, for not even doing as good a job. ![[mad]](/images/smilies/mad.png "Mad [mad]")
I might just give Ditschman In Flemington a try though, as they send me decent discount coupons on anything over $100.00 of labor.
They also told me that they do the slider greasing as part of the standard procedure for a brake job.
I might just give Ditschman In Flemington a try though, as they send me decent discount coupons on anything over $100.00 of labor.
They also told me that they do the slider greasing as part of the standard procedure for a brake job.
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![[:(]](/images/smilies/frown.png "Frown [:(]")
There are a few things that stand out based on OPs description.
- low mileage
- gentle driving
- brake pedal requires pumping
- pulls to the left under braking
- vibration under braking
Even with cheap pads, this type of mileage and this type of driving wouldn't result in high wear. Take a look at the pads to see how much they have actually worn.
Applying the brake pedal with no slowing of the car, having to pump the brake, is not normal or a fluke. Likely air in the lines. Maybe a failing master cylinder. I would do a full brake system flush. You can look this up on YouTube if you've never done it.
When swapping brake pads and pushing the piston back into the caliper, you should open the bleeder valve and catch the fluid, versus pushing it back into the master cylinder.
As has been stated, you should assess the guide pins on all four corners. Remove, clean, fresh grease.
Assess the rotors for pad residue. You may see places on the rotor surface where the pad left pad shaped residue. If this is present, that is likely what's causing your vibration. You can pull the rotors and clean them. Hit them with brake cleaner and steel wool.
Once everything is checked, flushed, and mounted back up, bed the brakes.
- low mileage
- gentle driving
- brake pedal requires pumping
- pulls to the left under braking
- vibration under braking
Even with cheap pads, this type of mileage and this type of driving wouldn't result in high wear. Take a look at the pads to see how much they have actually worn.
Applying the brake pedal with no slowing of the car, having to pump the brake, is not normal or a fluke. Likely air in the lines. Maybe a failing master cylinder. I would do a full brake system flush. You can look this up on YouTube if you've never done it.
When swapping brake pads and pushing the piston back into the caliper, you should open the bleeder valve and catch the fluid, versus pushing it back into the master cylinder.
As has been stated, you should assess the guide pins on all four corners. Remove, clean, fresh grease.
Assess the rotors for pad residue. You may see places on the rotor surface where the pad left pad shaped residue. If this is present, that is likely what's causing your vibration. You can pull the rotors and clean them. Hit them with brake cleaner and steel wool.
Once everything is checked, flushed, and mounted back up, bed the brakes.
abnormal? lol
That's def not the norm. When you replaced them did you remove and regrease rear slide pins? I know I probably sound like the old mean screaming at the clouds about guide pins, but the rears especially are known to rust and get stuck. Happens to me almost every time I replace my pads, which is why I go with OEM, they don't last long enough for the rears to get totally stuck
That's def not the norm. When you replaced them did you remove and regrease rear slide pins? I know I probably sound like the old mean screaming at the clouds about guide pins, but the rears especially are known to rust and get stuck. Happens to me almost every time I replace my pads, which is why I go with OEM, they don't last long enough for the rears to get totally stuck
abnormal? lol
That's def not the norm. When you replaced them did you remove and regrease rear slide pins? I know I probably sound like the old mean screaming at the clouds about guide pins, but the rears especially are known to rust and get stuck. Happens to me almost every time I replace my pads, which is why I go with OEM, they don't last long enough for the rears to get totally stuck
That's def not the norm. When you replaced them did you remove and regrease rear slide pins? I know I probably sound like the old mean screaming at the clouds about guide pins, but the rears especially are known to rust and get stuck. Happens to me almost every time I replace my pads, which is why I go with OEM, they don't last long enough for the rears to get totally stuck
Thread Starter
#54
abnormal? lol
That's def not the norm. When you replaced them did you remove and regrease rear slide pins? I know I probably sound like the old mean screaming at the clouds about guide pins, but the rears especially are known to rust and get stuck. Happens to me almost every time I replace my pads, which is why I go with OEM, they don't last long enough for the rears to get totally stuck
That's def not the norm. When you replaced them did you remove and regrease rear slide pins? I know I probably sound like the old mean screaming at the clouds about guide pins, but the rears especially are known to rust and get stuck. Happens to me almost every time I replace my pads, which is why I go with OEM, they don't last long enough for the rears to get totally stuck
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