Woods247 BrokeFiST Build

[cidsamuth]

If I was building a real dedicated Fiesta Race only type car. Enlarge the rear rotor and run the lightest smallest two pot caliper in the rear that guarantees good pad selection.

I *think* you are describing the Wilwood kit. Small calipers, and it can be adapted to a 12.19" rotor. Combine that an aggressive pad, and I think we can get some rear bias back.

My front kit is a custom, done by TCE. It's massive, and he estimates my current bias is in the 88/12 area. It might be a little better than that, as I don't think he was considered the SVT upgrade.

I'll know on my next track day on Friday how that feels.

 

[Fusion Works]

https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/B...DR&year=2014&make=Ford&model=Fiesta&option=SE

This is the only kit I am thinking of. Anything else would be completely custom.

 

[cidsamuth]

https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/B...DR&year=2014&make=Ford&model=Fiesta&option=SE

This is the only kit I am thinking of. Anything else would be completely custom.

yep, that’s the one. It comes standard with an 11.75” rotor. TCE tells me the rotor can be upscaled to 12.19” with the right hardware.

Its a lot of cash though for the theoretically limited improvement, especially once you factor in getting the standard Fiesta hubs.

 

[Fusion Works]

Yeah doesn't seem like a great deal.

 

[Woods247]

I've been autocrossing for about 5 years and have done 2 track days on my car. About to cross 80k may be worth checking these.

Also, have you thought about a 4x100 conversion or are you able to make it work with our weird pattern. Once I'm done with school the FiST is going to follow a similar path as your car. Was curious why you haven't made the switch considering the range of wheels offered in size and offset that we would need (also weight). Curious to hear your thoughts as you have been through all this.

The biggest reason I haven’t made the change is because I already have significant money invested in 4x108 wheelsets. I’m also uncertain if most 17” 4x100 offerings have a hub bore large enough to accommodate the Fiesta. I do plan to begin looking into the cost of converting to 5x114.3 hubs and custom axels when I change to an engine with much more power and 9” wide R-comp tires that provide far more grip. It still may be more cost effective to have two sets of custom 17x8 et30 4x108 light weight wheels built than it would be switching to a different bolt pattern.

I’ve proven to myself (and maybe others) that our existing OEM hubs are quite strong. My original hubs were tracked for almost 8 years and over 30k track miles (probably closer to 40k but I’m under estimating because I haven’t taken time to calculate exactly how much tracktime they actually had). I will keep more accurate usage data on the new hubs, however. It’s also fair to say that the hub that failed has significantly more force applied to it than the other three since it’s the driver front and my primary tracks run clockwise.

I don’t think this failure should be alarming to anyone other than those of us who heavily track our cars and run high grip tires. Hubs and wheels for all track cars are consumables and must be replaced to prevent catastrophic failure (while on track). It was 100% my fault for not taking this into consideration. I should’ve changed them earlier.. Given my car setup, driving style and the tracks I frequent, I have decided to swap them every two to three seasons and carry spares in my track box. I ALWAYS check them before every event but in my case it was impossible to visibly see a sign of imminent failure.

 

[Woods247]

Wilwoods are for SEMA builds that sit parked all the time. 😂 Don’t hate me.

 

[Woods247]

Gotta love dropping a headlight bolt into the abyss and having to remove the bumper cover to find it..

 

[Woods247]

My buddy and I discovered something potentially shitty this week. When my clutch is out there’s a squeaky sound at idle. When I push it in it goes away. Not sure what that is but it’s probably expensive. Hopefully the clutch/trans lasts the rest of the year and we can address it in January.

Turns out this was an easy fix. The top mounts of my Mishimoto radiator were wiggly. I made a couple of sleeves for the aluminum posts so it sits firmly in the OEM rubber now. No more squeak.. Sometimes it’s easy.

 

[TDavis]

Turns out this was an easy fix. The top mounts of my Mishimoto radiator were wiggly. I made a couple of sleeves for the aluminum posts so it sits firmly in the OEM rubber now. No more squeak.. Sometimes it’s easy.

Easy fixes like this are always really nice, especially when its cheap/simple. I had a rattle at one point in the engine bay. Ended up being the Damond OCC rattling against the shock tower

 

[Frontline17]

Hey woods I’ve been catching back up on your thread, so much good information in here! I’m glad your sticking with the fiesta. Sure you could get a mustang or Porsche but you would just be another one of the thousands out there. Your fiesta is unique and you are pushing the platform to new heights. When you upgrade your turbo your car will be flying.
On a side note for your motor build. You may want to check out Adam at tune plus. He has a video talking about our factory blocks. He believes the weak point is the block itself where ford cut groves into the top of the cylinders for coolant flow. He says they always crack right there. He is now building a motor using a different block.

 

[Woods247]

Thanks @Frontline17 My next engine will be sleeved for sure.

 

[Dialcaliper]

The biggest reason I haven’t made the change is because I already have significant money invested in 4x108 wheelsets. I’m also uncertain if most 17” 4x100 offerings have a hub bore large enough to accommodate the Fiesta. I do plan to begin looking into the cost of converting to 5x114.3 hubs and custom axels when I change to an engine with much more power and 9” wide R-comp tires that provide far more grip. It still may be more cost effective to have two sets of custom 17x8 et30 4x108 light weight wheels built than it would be switching to a different bolt pattern.

I’ve proven to myself (and maybe others) that our existing OEM hubs are quite strong. My original hubs were tracked for almost 8 years and over 30k track miles (probably closer to 40k but I’m under estimating because I haven’t taken time to calculate exactly how much tracktime they actually had). I will keep more accurate usage data on the new hubs, however. It’s also fair to say that the hub that failed has significantly more force applied to it than the other three since it’s the driver front and my primary tracks run clockwise.

I don’t think this failure should be alarming to anyone other than those of us who heavily track our cars and run high grip tires. Hubs and wheels for all track cars are consumables and must be replaced to prevent catastrophic failure (while on track). It was 100% my fault for not taking this into consideration. I should’ve changed them earlier.. Given my car setup, driving style and the tracks I frequent, I have decided to swap them every two to three seasons and carry spares in my track box. I ALWAYS check them before every event but in my case it was impossible to visibly see a sign of imminent failure.

Huh, I was just looking up hubs for a totally different reason, and I stumbled across these guys - billet steel hubs! A little spendy, but maybe worth it.

https://www.kmpdrivetrain.com/product/ford-fiesta-wheel-hub-racing/

The part number referenced might be for the Mk8 Fiesta, (K1BC-1104-A2A) but so far I haven’t found whether it’s the same or different as ours (K1BC-1104-A). Usually a minor change in part number like that means a slight revision, but not necessarily huge differences

 

[Fusion Works]

The OE hubs are not made from cast steel. They are forging. Judging by the number of events Matt has put on his car with the OE hubs, I would say they are plenty strong enough for most people.

Hubs are a wear item for a track car. At the end of the day they are not that expensive. OE hubs are $40 ea. That is pretty damn cheap.

 

[Woods247]

Huh, I was just looking up hubs for a totally different reason, and I stumbled across these guys - billet steel hubs! A little spendy, but maybe worth it.

https://www.kmpdrivetrain.com/product/ford-fiesta-wheel-hub-racing/

The part number referenced might be for the Mk8 Fiesta, (K1BC-1104-A2A) but so far I haven’t found whether it’s the same or different as ours (K1BC-1104-A). Usually a minor change in part number like that means a slight revision, but not necessarily huge differences

It seems to be for the MK8. Maybe they used cast hubs on that gen.

 

[Dialcaliper]

It seems to be for the MK8. Maybe they used cast hubs on that gen.

The Mk8 hubs I got from the UK to mess with look really similar. There are some subtle differences in the knuckle, but they look like they might be compatible.

Emailed the hub company and they said they weren’t aware of any differences between Mk7/Mk8 hubs, but next time I have my wheels off I’ll compare them with the US/(Mk7) hub dimensions.

@Fusion Works do you happen to have a source confirming the forged hubs? If so, I’m interested.

It’s almost impossible to tell just by looking whether a part machined/ground on all sides like the hub originally came from a near-shape casting, a forging or just a bar of rolled steel, short of doing some fancy testing (SEM microscope, XRM or some type of destructive tensile test come to mind)

 

[Fusion Works]

The Mk8 hubs I got from the UK to mess with look really similar. There are some subtle differences in the knuckle, but they look like they might be compatible.

Emailed the hub company and they said they weren’t aware of any differences between Mk7/Mk8 hubs, but next time I have my wheels off I’ll compare them with the US/(Mk7) hub dimensions.

@Fusion Works do you happen to have a source confirming the forged hubs? If so, I’m interested.

It’s almost impossible to tell just by looking whether a part machined/ground on all sides like the hub originally came from a near-shape casting, a forging or just a bar of rolled steel, short of doing some fancy testing (SEM microscope, XRM or some type of destructive tensile test come to mind)

Based on machining them, they are hard as hell. Not sure you can induction harden cast steel like you can a forging.

Near net forgings seem like the easy way to get a strong and easy to machine hub. Once you pound it to shape run you basic machine operations harden it and them grind the bearing surface part should be good to go. The nice thing with a forging that you can’t get with a casting or a billet is a fantastic grain structure that would resist cyclical loading.

Near net forgings seem like the easy way to get a strong and easy to machine hub. Once you pound it to shape run you basic machine operations harden it and them grind the bearing surface part should be good to go.
Bet you could email a UK Ford Parts Specialist and ask them to check the part numbers on tha Mk7 and Mk8 hubs. I doubt Ford saw fit to change them. They seem strong enough for OEM uses.

 

[Woods247]

The Mk8 hubs I got from the UK to mess with look really similar. There are some subtle differences in the knuckle, but they look like they might be compatible.

Emailed the hub company and they said they weren’t aware of any differences between Mk7/Mk8 hubs, but next time I have my wheels off I’ll compare them with the US/(Mk7) hub dimensions.

@Fusion Works do you happen to have a source confirming the forged hubs? If so, I’m interested.

It’s almost impossible to tell just by looking whether a part machined/ground on all sides like the hub originally came from a near-shape casting, a forging or just a bar of rolled steel, short of doing some fancy testing (SEM microscope, XRM or some type of destructive tensile test come to mind)

There’s a guy on the Fiesta ST Owners USA Facebook group trying to have 5x114.3 hubs made. He needs more interest.

 

[Woods247]

It’s been quiet this summer because I broke my knee. Hopefully I’ll hit the track again sometime in the next few weeks but I’m not gonna hold my breath. Until then I just stare and dream.

 

[FiestaSTdude]

It’s been quiet this summer because I broke my knee. Hopefully I’ll hit the track again sometime in the next few weeks but I’m not gonna hold my breath. Until then I just stare and dream.

View attachment 57835

That sucks! Hopefully you have a rapid recovery.

 

[Woods247]

F$&k it. Going to the track Saturday and Sunday. @Fusion Works sent me stainless rear beam alignment guides with heavy duty thick bolts to test and I also purchased and installed a set of @ron@whoosh rear camber plates. The bolts and guides installed easily and the Whoosh camber plates came out to right around -2.1 degrees rear camber so they should be perfect. Everything alignment wise is square and locked now. I’ll bang some curbs at Road Atlanta this weekend and see how they do until my knee decides it’s time to stop.