Woods247 BrokeFiST Build

[Fusion Works]

I have seen it before, its something about the way they seam the underlying belt together that starts to de laminate. Its a weird deal, figured it was really limited to the first sets of those tires and they would sort it out, but I guess not.

 

[Fusion Works]

You could try the Dunlop Star Spec3s. They wear like IRON and have good grip while doing it.

 

[M-Sport fan]

If it were not for the doubling (or more??) of Woods247's tire consumable co$t$, I would suggest going the other way to the Hoosiers (the full slick, 00 tread wear ones, not the 200 tread wear Contis, developed by them), like cidsamuth uses, but in the 17" sizes.

But then I guess the question becomes if the much greater extra grip/cornering g forces would exacerbate his crash (and other) sensor woes to a totally unsolvable level?

 

[Woods247]

Hoosiers are too pricey for me. The AR1 is on sale for $200ea right now and I’m considering it. They’re definitely not R7s but cost per smile is acceptable for me. Tires are by far the most expensive part of this hobby which is why I usually run Falkens. They’ve gone up a lot in price though and down in quality so I’m looking at the Nankang AR1 and Maxxis RC1 now. The Conti 200TW is a slower enduro tire but they last a long time like the RT615K+ and RS4. They’re more practical but I’m still chasing a lap time. Once I get it I’ll probably switch to the Conti for a year to cut back on consumable expenses.

 

[Woods247]

My buddy and I discovered something potentially shitty this week. When my clutch is out there’s a squeaky sound at idle. When I push it in it goes away. Not sure what that is but it’s probably expensive. Hopefully the clutch/trans lasts the rest of the year and we can address it in January.

 

[cidsamuth]

My buddy and I discovered something potentially shitty this week. When my clutch is out there’s a squeaky sound at idle. When I push it in it goes away. Not sure what that is but it’s probably expensive. Hopefully the clutch/trans lasts the rest of the year and we can address it in January.

Conventionally, ie on older cars, that's a throw out bearing noise. Doesn't necessarily mean it's on the way out.

On this car? Who knows. The slave cylinders are super suspect from the get go.

 

[Woods247]

Conventionally, ie on older cars, that's a throw out bearing noise. Doesn't necessarily mean it's on the way out.

On this car? Who knows. The slave cylinders are super suspect from the get go.

I had that before and it went away when I pushed the clutch in. This one is the opposite. It squeaks at idle with the clutch out and when I push it in or bring the RPMs up it goes away. My clutch is really high so I gotta drop the trans soon anyways. Admittedly I suck at heal/toe and sometimes just say screw it and send it. 😂 This car blips 1/2 second after I tell it to blip and that messes up my rhythm.

 

[cidsamuth]

What you describe was actually my experience with the older cars …. noise until you pushed the clutch in.

And I gave up on heel to toe. Embrace the drivetrain shock!

 

[Woods247]

What you describe was actually my experience with the older cars …. noise until you pushed the clutch in.

And I gave up on heel to toe. Embrace the drivetrain shock!

Have you heard of Autoblip? I tried to get them to build a blip for our car because I’m not a real man.

Edit: I was born a male and identify as a male. That was an early 2000s joke.🍆

 

[cidsamuth]

Have you heard of Autoblip? I tried to get them to build a blip for our car because I’m not a real man.

Edit: I was born a male and identify as a male. That was an early 2000s joke.🍆

LOL, funny how meaning of words changes over time. It's why people misinterpret the Bible so easily

Yes on Auto-blip, I even reached out to them. Wiring into our car really shouldn't be a hard lift, it just hasn't moved up the to-do list for me yet. They told me it looks for you to press the brake, then clutch. When it sees that sequence quickly, it "blips" the throttle. In theory, it looks like it will work for the purpose of using a downshift t slow the car while threshold braking.

 

[Woods247]

Damn.

 

[Fusion Works]

HMMM, looks like that transition from the hub to the face could use a cleaner transition, that is where it broke. Crack propogated in small radius of that transition. Know anyone with a lathe that could clean that transition up and make it larger or eliminate it all together?

Another ticket would be to shot peen the whole hub and any surface that is not bearing or seal surface.

What are you torquing the hub nut to, when you install?

 

[Woods247]

HMMM, looks like that transition from the hub to the face could use a cleaner transition, that is where it broke. Crack propogated in small radius of that transition. Know anyone with a lathe that could clean that transition up and make it larger or eliminate it all together?

Another ticket would be to shot peen the whole hub and any surface that is not bearing or seal surface.

What are you torquing the hub nut to, when you install?

Ford service told me 135ft lbs. Unfortunately I don’t know anyone with a lathe. I figured the old ones had over 30k track miles so as long as I change them every other year I should be good. One was a massive pain in the ass but the others went well. It doesn’t look like Ford sells the rear knuckle (or whatever it’s called) anymore either. They only have the base Fiesta version that doesn’t have caliper mounts.

 

[cidsamuth]

Ford service told me 135ft lbs. Unfortunately I don’t know anyone with a lathe. I figured the old ones had over 30k track miles so as long as I change them every other year I should be good. One was a massive pain in the ass but the others went well. It doesn’t look like Ford sells the rear knuckle (or whatever it’s called) anymore either. They only have the base Fiesta version that doesn’t have caliper mounts.

That base version is required if you want to upgrade the rear brakes to the Wilwood kit with the 11.75” rotor. I wonder if that hub is just as strong as the ST 🤔

 

[Fusion Works]

Probably not. The ST uses the same hub front and rear and the same wheel bearing front and rear. Torque is minimum 255NM or 188lbft according to the manual. Torque it to 200+lbft.

 

[Fusion Works]

That base version is required if you want to upgrade the rear brakes to the Wilwood kit with the 11.75” rotor. I wonder if that hub is just as strong as the ST 🤔

There is no reason to run the Wilwood rear kit. Just a relocation bracket and a 305mm rotor. Stock calipers are fine in the back.

 

[Woods247]

Probably not. The ST uses the same hub front and rear and the same wheel bearing front and rear. Torque is minimum 255NM or 188lbft according to the manual. Torque it to 200+lbft.

I was wrong. My buddy said he torqued to 188lbft not 135 like I thought. I’ll double check it tomorrow when I swap wheels before the alignment though. Thanks for checking for me!

Edited for my notes: they are all 188

 

[cidsamuth]

There is no reason to run the Wilwood rear kit. Just a relocation bracket and a 305mm rotor. Stock calipers are fine in the back.

I know that's common thought on it. I think the SVT upgrade allows for a 280mm (11") rotor, not 305. I might be wrong.

The Wilwood kit is certainly not robust. But, in theory, it allows for slightly better pad choices. It comes with a 300mm rotor (11.75") , and can be adapted to a 310mm rotor (12.19"), for more torque.

I'm confident it's an upgrade . . . particularly if trying to get more rear bias after adding a true BBK up front. Is it enough of an upgrade to be worth a cool grand? Maybe not.

 

[Erick_V]

Damn.

I've been autocrossing for about 5 years and have done 2 track days on my car. About to cross 80k may be worth checking these.

Also, have you thought about a 4x100 conversion or are you able to make it work with our weird pattern. Once I'm done with school the FiST is going to follow a similar path as your car. Was curious why you haven't made the switch considering the range of wheels offered in size and offset that we would need (also weight). Curious to hear your thoughts as you have been through all this.

 

[Fusion Works]

I know that's common thought on it. I think the SVT upgrade allows for a 280mm (11") rotor, not 305. I might be wrong.

The Wilwood kit is certainly not robust. But, in theory, it allows for slightly better pad choices. It comes with a 300mm rotor (11.75") , and can be adapted to a 310mm rotor (12.19"), for more torque.

I'm confident it's an upgrade . . . particularly if trying to get more rear bias after adding a true BBK up front. Is it enough of an upgrade to be worth a cool grand? Maybe not.

On a Front wheel drive race car where you move the CG and weight balance rear ward there is definitely some benefit to more rear brake (from an effectiveness standpoint). In the case of most of use who are still working off the production platform or me with a full on street car version, the rear brakes aren't really contributing a whole lot to stopping the car because the OEM weigh balance is already 61% front and you transfer even more of that forward under braking.

Me swapping the rear rotor to a 305 using a stock pad gets me a bit more leverage and slightly more mass for better thermal management. Using the OEM Summer pad is about the right amount of brake on the rear when coupled with a big track based front kit.

If I was building a real dedicated Fiesta Race only type car. Enlarge the rear rotor and run the lightest smallest two pot caliper in the rear that guarantees good pad selection.