COOLERWORX Pro Short Shifter Installation Tips & Tricks + Linkage Redesign Discussion

[babydriver037]

I moved the linkages around while fiddling with my shifter before install too. To get a general idea of where they need to be, I marked where each shifter cable was for each gear with a sharpie before removing the stock shifter and adjusted the linkages on the Coolerworx to match after install. This also helps with setting the stops for R, 1-2 and 5-6. If you don't mark the cables it's not a big deal either; adjust the side to side cable linkage so it goes into 3-4 easily when centered. The front to back linkage doesn't matter as long as it doesn't bind up, you can set it where you want to move the knob forward/backward.

Using sharpie does make sense. Thanks for the suggestion!

Tomorrow is the day, and I will let you know guys how it goes.

 

[babydriver037]

My 2 cents. The installation is not that easy: cables are really tough to push a little back. I am not even sure whether it is better to slide the collars first and then bolt it down, or vice versa. In the end, if sliding collars first, then one needs to push two cables at the same time. Second, when bolting it down, the most inconvenient thing is the front right bolt. The short shifter is designed in such a way that (at least in my case) it is infeasible to bolt it with a socket wrench.

Second, the suggestion to use a sharpie was super useful. Basically, the left-right is easy to adjust when in neutral, simply make sure that it goes to 3-4 without any additional movements (thanks @Pete B and @Sakel). The other adjustable linkage is responsible for the angle of the stick, so does not affect too much I guess, so I leave it as is.

The only thing I am not super happy about is that the pattern is not fully H when sticking into 1 and 2. It feels like it is tilted slightly. That is why I have sometimes problems when downshifting from 3 to 2 fast. And for now I cannot switch into the 6th one right stand-alone, only after the 5th one. But I guess I need to adjust the set screws which is my plan for tonight, as well as tightening up the jam nuts (completely forgot about it).

Overall, it took me 3.5 hours that is not that bad given I had a little background in mechanics. And I totally love how quick it shifts 2-3-4.

 

[Pete B]

My 2 cents. The installation is not that easy: cables are really tough to push a little back. I am not even sure whether it is better to slide the collars first and then bolt it down, or vice versa. In the end, if sliding collars first, then one needs to push two cables at the same time. Second, when bolting it down, the most inconvenient thing is the front right bolt. The short shifter is designed in such a way that (at least in my case) it is infeasible to bolt it with a socket wrench.

Second, the suggestion to use a sharpie was super useful. Basically, the left-right is easy to adjust when in neutral, simply make sure that it goes to 3-4 without any additional movements (thanks @Pete B and @Sakel). The other adjustable linkage is responsible for the angle of the stick, so does not affect too much I guess, so I leave it as is.

The only thing I am not super happy about is that the pattern is not fully H when sticking into 1 and 2. It feels like it is tilted slightly. That is why I have sometimes problems when downshifting from 3 to 2 fast. And for now I cannot switch into the 6th one right stand-alone, only after the 5th one. But I guess I need to adjust the set screws which is my plan for tonight, as well as tightening up the jam nuts (completely forgot about it).

Overall, it took me 3.5 hours that is not that bad given I had a little background in mechanics. And I totally love how quick it shifts 2-3-4.

Glad your install was successful and yea, from what I remember that one nut at the front was a total pain to tighten with a wrench!

On first install I had the same issue with 6th gear so I backed off the set screw half a turn and it shifts much better. I found it better to have too much travel than too little.

I have the same tilted 1-2 shift like everyone else. One day when I feel creative I'll make up a replacement linkage that centers the tie rod when the shifter is centered and also rotates the shift cable back to horizontal. What I'm thinking is a piece of 1/4" thick steel with a 90 degree bend at each end or maybe some thick aluminum TIG'd together. Should be fairly simple; just need to keep the lever arm ratio in the ballpark of the stock piece.

Can offset the bearing hole like stock as well if using wider material. Not sure if that's necessary or if there is enough adjustment in the front-back tie rod to get the shift knob in a good location.



edit: New quick and ugly sketch. Just occurred to me I can cut the upper tab at an angle before welding to recreate the offset. Might give this a try next weekend.

 

[babydriver037]

Glad your install was successful and yea, from what I remember that one nut at the front was a total pain to tighten with a wrench!

On first install I had the same issue with 6th gear so I backed off the set screw half a turn and it shifts much better. I found it better to have too much travel than too little.

I have the same tilted 1-2 shift like everyone else. One day when I feel creative I'll make up a replacement linkage that centers the tie rod when the shifter is centered and also rotates the shift cable back to horizontal. What I'm thinking is a piece of 1/4" thick steel with a 90 degree bend at each end or maybe some thick aluminum TIG'd together. Should be fairly simple; just need to keep the lever arm ratio in the ballpark of the stock piece.

Can offset the bearing hole like stock as well if using wider material. Not sure if that's necessary or if there is enough adjustment in the front-back tie rod to get the shift knob in a good location.



edit: New quick and ugly sketch. Just occurred to me I can cut the upper tab at an angle before welding to recreate the offset. Might give this a try next weekend.

View attachment 32389

True, the issue with the 6th was very fast to solve.
The sketch looks awesome, I'm really thrilled if it will work out!

 

[Woods247]

Just so others know, I had zero problems installing this. If you connect the cables before bolting it to the floor, it’s easy. I also have flex head ratchets and wrenches, which I find to be necessities when working on cars. There’s a YouTube video link in this thread that describes exactly how to set the adjustments. The entire installation was maybe an hour total.

 

[JDG]

More bad news guys... new potential failure location of the Coolerworx shifter. Seems to be the same failure mode as the other failures but in a different location. The threaded stud on the ball stud on the shifter handle failed. This will be a lot harder to redesign around..

View: https://youtu.be/LwEyRgBsdMs


Jump to 16:18 to see what I’m talking about.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jeffreylyon]

More bad news guys... new potential failure location of the Coolerworx shifter. Seems to be the same failure mode as the other failures but in a different location. The threaded stud on the ball stud on the shifter handle failed. This will be a lot harder to redesign around..

View: https://youtu.be/LwEyRgBsdMs


Jump to 16:18 to see what I’m talking about.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ugh...

 

[Sakel]

I've had my shifter for around 4 months and 8k miles, no issue so far.

EDIT: That was one of the guys with an early shifter, I wonder if they changed anything else with the new linkage?

 

[JDG]

I've had my shifter for around 4 months and 8k miles, no issue so far.

EDIT: That was one of the guys with an early shifter, I wonder if they changed anything else with the new linkage?

Looks the same too me. Ball stud is the same size.

I’ve put 10k miles since my redesign and no issues. Just sharing for awareness. I knew that ball stud that broke in the YouTube video was the next weakest link though.. going to have to make that a priority now for strengthening. Don’t want this thing leaving me stranded again.


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[MagnetiseST]

Looks the same too me. Ball stud is the same size.

I’ve put 10k miles since my redesign and no issues. Just sharing for awareness. I knew that ball stud that broke in the YouTube video was the next weakest link though.. going to have to make that a priority now for strengthening. Don’t want this thing leaving me stranded again.


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I really feel like it has to do with how hard you are on the lever. If you’re banging it around into gear maybe it fails easier. I haven’t done a track day yet with mine but I have done road trips, tail of the dragon, and tons of spirited driving. Prob slightly over 7k miles. No issues


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[Shikari]

I'll be posting mine up for sale here in a few weeks. Only about 300 miles on it. Nothing wrong with it, just slowly parting out the car to finance projects for the new house (mmmmmm Traeger)

 

[DangerMouse]

this shifter is going to give me a heart attack. Might have to keep the stocker in the trunk with a few tools so i don’t get stranded. Yikes.

 

[M-Sport fan]

this shifter is going to give me a heart attack. Might have to keep the stocker in the trunk with a few tools so i don’t get stranded. Yikes.

HA! I'm saving up for a sequential, and I might then have to keep a spare factory transaxle in the hatch!

 

[jeffreylyon]

HA! I'm saving up for a sequential, and I might then have to keep a spare factory transaxle in the hatch!

And a pair of noise-cancelling headsets in the seat next to you!

Does any do a sequential that fits into an IB6 box?

 

[M-Sport fan]

And a pair of noise-cancelling headsets in the seat next to you!

Does any do a sequential that fits into an IB6 box?

Yeah, I was KIDDING, and making a vain/futile attempt at snark.

But, yes, a gear set/cluster/linkage which converts the whole thing to a sequential, while fitting into the IB6 case, (a la the PPG {Pfitzner Performance Gearboxes} setups for the T56s) would be a cool, lower cost option for those willing to put up with the hassles of a straight cut gear, sequential box.

 

[Sakel]

I'm curious if anyone else is experiencing an issue I'm having. The car doesn't know it's in reverse after the coolerworx install. At first I thought it was the sensor, but I swapped it out and it still doesn't work. I can use reverse fine, but there's no reverse lights or courtesy wipe

 

[Woods247]

I'm curious if anyone else is experiencing an issue I'm having. The car doesn't know it's in reverse after the coolerworx install. At first I thought it was the sensor, but I swapped it out and it still doesn't work. I can use reverse fine, but there's no reverse lights or courtesy wipe

Did you check your fuses?

 

[Sakel]

Did you check your fuses?

fuses are fine, the car just doesn't know it's in reverse at all

 

[Woods247]

fuses are fine, the car just doesn't know it's in reverse at all

Weird. I disconnected the battery when I installed my shifter. I have no clue if that was necessary, but since I was unplugging all those connectors I thought it would be wise. Maybe one of those connections has something to do with it?? Sorry I don’t have more experience with this particular problem.

 

[Sakel]

Weird. I disconnected the battery when I installed my shifter. I have no clue if that was necessary, but since I was unplugging all those connectors I thought it would be wise. Maybe one of those connections has something to do with it?? Sorry I don’t have more experience with this particular problem.

likely the smart thing to do, but the confusing thing is the sensor for reverse is on the transmission, there's nothing in the shifter itself