Woods247 BrokeFiST Build

[Woods247]

Lots going on right now in prep for reopening. I decided to build a chassis mounted splitter, which is requiring a lot of work since I don’t really have anything to go off of.

I started by removing the OEM air dam, my brake ducts and other trim that was in the way.

I also removed the Pierce 6 point (because it’s too low) and replaced it with a TB performance 4 point and traction bar. We cut, raised and rewelded the traction bar so it sits above the subframe. We also had to shorten the Whoosh charge pipe elbow and roll a new bead for the coupler so it would clear the new traction bar. It all worked very well and went pretty quick.

Creating a template for a 4” chassis mounted splitter took the majority of the day. We started with cardboard and moved to insulation foam since it’s easy to sculpt. That’s as far as we’ve gotten.. We’ll be back at it on Wednesday and hopefully have the finished splitter cut out of the 10mm Alumalite sheet. I’m making an air dam out of aluminum, which might not be the most practical material, but it’ll look bad ass when it’s finished. We will take the 4x8 aluminum sheet to a shop down the street that has a 10ft break. They’ll sheer and bend the sheet for us which will save a ton of time. It’s pretty thick stuff. The curves will be a fun challenge since we plan on using the old school metal shrinking method. I’ve never done that so I’m pretty excited to see how it goes. I’m gonna cry when I destroy it after sliding off the track but it’s totally worth the effort lol. This stuff is a lot of fun.

Here’s a few pics from today in no particular order. That IS NOT the final shape of the splitter. It needs an hour or so of finishing:

 

[the duke]

I can see that charge pipe hitting the TB bar. It might have been better to keep the TB bar lower and weld some attachment points via spacers to the bar for the splitter.

What is your plan here. Are you going to create a full airdam or a simple flat splitter. I can't remember how much heat is evacuated from the underside, be warned you might compromise your cooling. Might want to add some rearward vents or louvers to allow for heat extraction.

 

[M-Sport fan]

This is great!

10mm is way thicker than my skid plate, so if/when you go off course, into the weeds (and cry), it WILL help protect anything in the underside of the front clip area.

The duke above has a point about the venting/possible heat issues though, because even though I generally do not see over-heating problems, even in the middle of summer, when the plate is on the car for working rallies, I am NOT wringing the car's neck in the deep south in summertime.

 

[Woods247]

I can see that charge pipe hitting the TB bar. It might have been better to keep the TB bar lower and weld some attachment points via spacers to the bar for the splitter.

What is your plan here. Are you going to create a full airdam or a simple flat splitter. I can't remember how much heat is evacuated from the underside, be warned you might compromise your cooling. Might want to add some rearward vents or louvers to allow for heat extraction.

Those aren’t the finished pics but thanks for the suggestions. I don’t think it was even moved up in that pic. There’s plenty of clearance for the charge pipe but the little unused nub on the engine will be knocked off, just in case. I have firm motor mounts so movement is minimized in my car. If there’s contact during shakedown, it’s easy to remove and correct whatever needs adjusting. Nothing has to be permanent.

It’ll be a full air dam. This is probably the most complicated part of the project. We’re still working on it but the general idea has been put into motion. It’s easier to post up pics when it’s built then try to explain what I intend to do. It’s a lot of work for a consumable part but I think it’s worth it.

The splitter will be modified when complete. The tail section may have to be eliminated completely to adhere to rules that don’t permit it to extend past the center of the front wheels. We’ll see.. There’s still a lot to finish with the splitter. I don’t think I’ll have time to build splitter diffusers either before my first track day, but that’s in the plans too. I may just pickup a set from Professional Awesome or 9Lives and make them work.. I’ll keep an eye on temps but I’m not too concerned about it. Thanks again.

 

[KenST]

Lots going on right now in prep for reopening. I decided to build a chassis mounted splitter, which is requiring a lot of work since I don’t really have anything to go off of.

I started by removing the OEM air dam, my brake ducts and other trim that was in the way.

I also removed the Pierce 6 point (because it’s too low) and replaced it with a TB performance 4 point and traction bar. We cut, raised and rewelded the traction bar so it sits above the subframe. We also had to shorten the Whoosh charge pipe elbow and roll a new bead for the coupler so it would clear the new traction bar. It all worked very well and went pretty quick.

Creating a template for a 4” chassis mounted splitter took the majority of the day. We started with cardboard and moved to insulation foam since it’s easy to sculpt. That’s as far as we’ve gotten.. We’ll be back at it on Wednesday and hopefully have the finished splitter cut out of the 10mm Alumalite sheet. I’m making an air dam out of aluminum, which might not be the most practical material, but it’ll look bad ass when it’s finished. We will take the 4x8 aluminum sheet to a shop down the street that has a 10ft break. They’ll sheer and bend the sheet for us which will save a ton of time. It’s pretty thick stuff. The curves will be a fun challenge since we plan on using the old school metal shrinking method. I’ve never done that so I’m pretty excited to see how it goes. I’m gonna cry when I destroy it after sliding off the track but it’s totally worth the effort lol. This stuff is a lot of fun.

Here’s a few pics from today in no particular order. That IS NOT the final shape of the splitter. It needs an hour or so of finishing:

Looks like you and me are at the same point on the chassis mount. My next step is ordering all the brackets and cutting it on on plywood.


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[Woods247]

This is great!

10mm is way thicker than my skid plate, so if/when you go off course, into the weeds (and cry), it WILL help protect anything in the underside of the front clip area.

The duke above has a point about the venting/possible heat issues though, because even though I generally do not see over-heating problems, even in the middle of summer, when the plate is on the car for working rallies, I am NOT wringing the car's neck in the deep south in summertime.

I’m pretty certain the Alumalite will shred when I go off lol. I suppose I need to try to stay on target. I have so many hours in this thing lol. I’ll have a permanent hard template, so making new ones will be simple. The sheets are relatively inexpensive. If I cut the tail off, I might be able to cut two splitters per sheet too.

I may remove the lower cowl if I start seeing temps spike. I won’t cut the hood unless it’s absolutely necessary. So far the Mishimoto radiator and thermostat are keeping everything in check. I can still blast the heater too. It gets hot as hell with that thing on though.

 

[Woods247]

These are the splitter diffusers I was referring too. I’d like to build my own but their price is reasonable.

 

[Shikari]

I also think the Pierce bar hangs way to low. My car is at a very conservative height and I smack the bar on everything/ I may consider fabing up something custom.

I'm excited to see your aero package. These guys make some cool aero accessories I think you'd be interested in https://professionalawesome.com/product-category/aerodynamics/

 

[M-Sport fan]

I’m pretty certain the Alumalite will shred when I go off lol. I suppose I need to try to stay on target. I have so many hours in this thing lol. I’ll have a permanent hard template, so making new ones will be simple. The sheets are relatively inexpensive. If I cut the tail off, I might be able to cut two splitters per sheet too.

I may remove the lower cowl if I start seeing temps spike. I won’t cut the hood unless it’s absolutely necessary. So far the Mishimoto radiator and thermostat are keeping everything in check. I can still blast the heater too. It gets hot as hell with that thing on though.

I forgot that Alumalite is a composite type of material, and not just a different alloy of pure aluminum.

The resin stays flexible enough when put through the brakes for bending/forming that it will not crack?

How thick are the two actual top and bottom aluminum sheets?

 

[Woods247]

I also think the Pierce bar hangs way to low. My car is at a very conservative height and I smack the bar on everything/ I may consider fabing up something custom.

I'm excited to see your aero package. These guys make some cool aero accessories I think you'd be interested in https://professionalawesome.com/product-category/aerodynamics/

View attachment 31556

Yeah those guys are indeed Awesome. I plan to use or copy their $150 splitter diffusers. I like their splitter rods too but for now I just plan to use what I have since time is running out .

 

[Woods247]

I forgot that Alumalite is a composite type of material, and not just a different alloy of pure aluminum.

The resin stays flexible enough when put through the brakes for bending/forming that it will not crack?

How thick are the two actual top and bottom aluminum sheets?

The Alumalite will not be put in the brake. It’s gotta be cut the old fashioned way with a saw.

I’m using the brake to bend a 4x8 sheet of 0.63 3003 aluminum for the air dam.

 

[M-Sport fan]

The Alumalite will not be put in the brake. It’s gotta be cut the old fashioned way with a saw.

I’m using the brake to bend a 4x8 sheet of 0.63 3003 aluminum for the air dam.

OK, gotcha.

 

[Woods247]

This takes a long time to build lol. Damn.. We’re still going.

 

[JDG]

@Woods247

DO you have any more details/photos about your brake ducting? I skimmed your thread and couldn't find anything. Also, did you ever track the car with stock brakes? Curious how quickly you were able to get brake fade/boiling fluid. I was pretty unimpressed with the front factory brakes/ebc yellow pads at my first track event yesterday. Just a track sprint though; managed to boil the fluid after 2/ 60 second laps.

 

[the duke]

@Woods247

DO you have any more details/photos about your brake ducting? I skimmed your thread and couldn't find anything. Also, did you ever track the car with stock brakes? Curious how quickly you were able to get brake fade/boiling fluid. I was pretty unimpressed with the front factory brakes/ebc yellow pads at my first track event yesterday. Just a track sprint though; managed to boil the fluid after 2/ 60 second laps.

What hardware did you have (Rotors, Fluid)?

While I've never boiled RBF600, I have warped stock rotors halfway through a track session. That was fun.

 

[Woods247]

@Woods247

DO you have any more details/photos about your brake ducting? I skimmed your thread and couldn't find anything. Also, did you ever track the car with stock brakes? Curious how quickly you were able to get brake fade/boiling fluid. I was pretty unimpressed with the front factory brakes/ebc yellow pads at my first track event yesterday. Just a track sprint though; managed to boil the fluid after 2/ 60 second laps.

I think there are a few pics on my IG @BrokeFiST and somewhere here in the brake section. I had early fade with stock brakes/pads and Motul 600. I switched to Type 200 (the old SuperBlue) and it was better. I very quickly upgraded the brakes after tracking the car a few times, so I can’t really say if the ducts helped. I’m sure they didn’t hurt.. My next setup will drop from 3” to 2.5” to accommodate the splitter. I haven’t decided where I’m placing the inlets yet. Probably near the driving lights. The brakes I have now haven’t had any problems with Type 200 and Stoptech Performance Pads. I’m installing the Goldcoast Automotive rear RS setup tomorrow. As soon as I have time, I’ll list the SVT brackets and rotors for sale.

 

[Woods247]

I think we’re done with the chassis mount. We’ll cut out the splitter from the Alumalite sheet and build the air dam tomorrow. After the air dam is built, I’ll figure out where to mount the Professional Awesome splitter rods to the front of the splitter and connect them to the crash beam.

 

[KenST]

I think we’re done with the chassis mount. We’ll cut out the splitter from the Alumalite sheet and build the air dam tomorrow. After the air dam is built, I’ll figure out where to mount the Professional Awesome splitter rods to the front of the splitter and connect them to the crash beam.

If I had a lift I would’ve been done, I’m actually about to order Professionals quick release for mine.


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[Woods247]

If I had a lift I would’ve been done, I’m actually about to order Professionals quick release for mine.


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I wish I had more time to allocate to the car. I can’t wait to be done with this.. Their QRs are nice. My rods were just under $80 shipped which isn’t bad at all.

 

[Woods247]

The air dam is almost finished: