Spark Plug Install

[felopr]

I have ran into the same deal as others. Takes a longer 5/8 socket with a tight tolerance. Other wise the spark plug won't sit all the way down. Also use antisize. It helps the new plug thread in smooth. I notice that carbon build up on the old plug threads

please don't use anti-siege, it can give you false reading when you torque it down, also, the spark plug manufactures recommends to install it dry

 

[KnockOff]

I have had them get stuck! Used anti for 10 years.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[me32]

please don't use anti-siege, it can give you false reading when you torque it down, also, the spark plug manufactures recommends to install it dry

I can't agree. Dry install will give a false tq reading if the spark plug does not thread smoothly. Which is not hard on the EB because of some carbon build up. Never had and issue with anti-size

 

[jeff]

I always feel extra safe when I use anti-siege. Keeps marauders, pillagers, and ne’er do wells far, far away.

Anti-size, however, I’ve never been a fan of.

 

[me32]

I always feel extra safe when I use anti-siege. Keeps marauders, pillagers, and ne’er do wells far, far away.

Anti-size, however, I’ve never been a fan of.

Lol. Everyone has there own thoughts. Comes Down to what ever works best for each.

 

[koozy]

Most quality sparkplugs being made these days don't require the use of anti-seize, this came about because in the "olden days" there were numerous issues of plugs being seized in cylinder heads. People would end up breaking plugs trying to get them out and machine shops were kept busy extracting plugs. Plug manufacturers evolved to making plugs to address these issues. I've been wrenching on cars since '87, my FiST isn't my first rodeo and have always used anti-seize on components that are suspect to seize and cause angst down the line, exhaust manifold fasteners, turbocharger bolts, etc. (tons of threads about broken bolts and people having a hard time with fasteners).

I'm old school in using it sparingly on sparkplugs, we're talking about a small dab the size of 1 or 2 grains of rice. The sparkplug needs to be grounded to the cylinder head, so caking on anti-seize over every inch of tread is not good practice. I also use dielectric grease on the plugs for the coils. I've seen may coil plugs with heavy oxidation to cause problems, which dielectric grease would totally prevent. Dielectric grease is also a good lube for radiator hoses and turbo charge hoses. I prefer nickel over copper anti-seize for it's greater performance.

 

[HardBoiledEgg]

I'm astonished people TQ spark plugs. Do you TQ your oil drain plug too?

 

[koozy]

I'm astonished people TQ spark plugs. Do you TQ your oil drain plug too?

No, I don't torque using a torque wrench for sparkplugs or drain plugs. For non-critical components I do them "gudentite". I'd rather 'er on the safe side and not break or strip something because of trying to torque it down to a specific number.

For critical components like cylinder heads studs, camshaft retainers, sprockets, brakes, most suspension parts, yes a torque wrench is used.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I'm astonished people TQ spark plugs. Do you TQ your oil drain plug too?

On an aluminum head, with easy access like ours, YES, I will torque them down.

It was pretty much an impossibility to do on an LS1 in the totally inaccessible engine compartment of a 4th gen f body, since one could barely get to the plugs to remove/install them in the first place, which had to be done mostly by 'feel' ONLY, and there was barely enough room for a socket to fit, let alone a torque wrench!

 

[Sekred]

As Koozy pointed out, if you use Anti-seize then use it sparingly and reduce recommended torque by 20-30%. For a tapered seat plug as used in our eco-boost engines, install plug and tighten by hand till it "seats", tighten a further 1/8 of a turn. This angle torque method eliminates the problem of over-torqueing when using a thread lubricate such as anti-seize. Works for bolts too.

 

[FearTheSnail]

I used anti-seize every time I changed the plugs in my ST. Recently I found out I have a plug stuck in the head that I cannot remove. I had a mechanic try to remove it as well, he would not proceed as he felt that the plug was shearing off in the head. For those who are stating to use it, please read this:

https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/spark-plug-101/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs

1. Anti-seize
NGK spark plugs feature what is known as trivalent plating. This silver-or-chrome colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage.

NGK Technical Bulletin: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/NGK_TB-0630111antisieze.pdf

 

[jeff]

Manual says to torque them at 14 foot pounds. I went with 12.5 since I used very small amount of anti-seize on the first three or four threads.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I used anti-seize every time I changed the plugs in my ST. Recently I found out I have a plug stuck in the head that I cannot remove. I had a mechanic try to remove it as well, he would not proceed as he felt that the plug was shearing off in the head. For those who are stating to use it, please read this:

https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/spark-plug-101/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs


NGK Technical Bulletin: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/NGK_TB-0630111antisieze.pdf

Even with the above info, IF one changes them out every 30K to 50K miles at MOST (and not @75K to 100K+ miles), they most likely would not have a chance to seize into the head, even if this trivalent plating does not do it's proper job.

 

[FearTheSnail]

Even with the above info, IF one changes them out every 30K to 50K miles at MOST (and not @75K to 100K+ miles), they most likely would not have a chance to seize into the head, even if this trivalent plating does not do it's proper job.

I was changing out every 4-8k miles.

 

[KnockOff]

To clarify my earlier post.
I have had spark plugs almost not come out on my cars and a buddy's car. It was so tight when I was helping him I stopped and told him to do it because if something happened I'd rather it be him that did it.
I also never torque em. Just a that feels good lol. Probably should now that stated above they are very easy to get to.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[M-Sport fan]

I was changing out every 4-8k miles.

Yeah, I was referring to factory snail setups without; radical tunes/aux fueling/etc.

But just to be safe, without using anti-seize, I might change mine out, on a basically stock power train FiST, every 10K to 15K miles anyway.

 

[HardBoiledEgg]

Okay makes more sense. Tight is tight

 

[Bretley]

No anti-sieze, TQ them to 12ft lbs. Never had a problem. I use stock motocraft plugs though, and this is just my experience over the past 39k (4 swaps). One thing I don't like is how they are set at an angle and not straight down like I'm used to.

 

[apex1]

Why would some of you change the plugs at 4k to 8k miles, or even at 10k miles? If it is because they are accessible and it makes you feel good to do it, I get it. But is there a reason having to do with necessity?

 

[FearTheSnail]

Why would some of you change the plugs at 4k to 8k miles, or even at 10k miles? If it is because they are accessible and it makes you feel good to do it, I get it. But is there a reason having to do with necessity?

High boost and ethanol are hard on plugs.