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Proper Brake Fluid Procedure?

Sourskittle

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#21
Anyone ever find out if
The fiesta really needs to have the dealership tool to bleed
The brakes 100%?

Another thing I did with my jeep back in the day, I let it sit for 6 months with no axles/brakes. It was a real pain to bleed afterwords. What finally got it? 17-20feet of clear vinyl hose from Home Depot.
I ziptied the hose tight on the bleeder nipple. Then.... pumped the fluid from the caliper ALL THE WAY up to the master cylinder again. So it basically just made this long, air tight, loop. And I could just pump and pump and pump and pump the fluid. If any bubbles came out, they would hit the fluid reservoir and float to the top of
The reservoir while the actual fluid would just keep cycling.

Of course... it means you lose a bit of fluid in that 17-20ft of 5/32 hose, but... you can just really exchange the fluid over and over and it means you don't waste fluid no matter how many times you do it ( minus the fluid lost in the hose ).


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Location
Rimouski
#22
Anyone knows if I remove all 4 calipers, to have them powdercoated, if air will enter the brakes lines up to the master cylinder?

Any tips for me to avoid this air enter in the brakes lines?

Thanks!

[rockon]

-Seb-
 


Quisp

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Davenport
#23
Anyone knows if I remove all 4 calipers, to have them powdercoated, if air will enter the brakes lines up to the master cylinder?

Any tips for me to avoid this air enter in the brakes lines?

Thanks!

[rockon]

-Seb-
You could cap the lines off. I believe that would keep it out of master.
 


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Location
Milwaukee
#24
You could either pinch the rubber hoses to each caliper, or cap them off. Stores like autozone or oreileys will have little black plugs you can shove into the brake hoses where the bolt goes through the line into the caliper, that plug the fluid from seeping out. Those tend to work well too.
 


Sourskittle

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#25
You could either pinch the rubber hoses to each caliper, or cap them off. Stores like autozone or oreileys will have little black plugs you can shove into the brake hoses where the bolt goes through the line into the caliper, that plug the fluid from seeping out. Those tend to work well too.
Sweet !! I've never seen those. Cool idea though.
Learn something new everyday.
 


CanadianGuy

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Southern Ontario
#26
Yes; I took only a brief glance at it while installing the TTR mounts. It seems to be tucked fairly deep underneath the cowl... unless it is acceptable to utilize the fill reservoir for this job?
The reservoir is under the cowl but the filler goose neck is easily accessible. Its the one sitting on top of the driver side shock.
 


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Location
Rimouski
#27
Thanks [MENTION=3955]Quisp[/MENTION] & [MENTION=6424]awwwww_shift[/MENTION]!

I'll ask my car parts shop if they have those kind of brake line rubber cap!

[rockon]

-Seb-
 


M-Sport fan

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Princeton, N.J.
#32
^^^THANKS! [thumb]

And yes, I said I've never SEEN it posted, NOT that it did not exist on here (yup, 'guilty as charged' for being too lazy to search-"lock me up" LOL!).

IF Ford offered us the option of PRINTED BOOK factory service manuals for this car, I would not even had asked. ;)
 


Sourskittle

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#33
What the hell !!? Did I post spark plugs in a brake fluid bleeding thread? Lol.



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Messages
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Location
San Francisco Bay Area
#34
Would be great if someone that has that Motive bleeder could confirm the exact model number and the effectiveness of the seal to the reservoir.
You definitely need the three pronged Ford adapter (1107). For some reason I bought the three pronged Chevy adapted (1108), which I used to pressurize the system dry but would leak fluid out of the cap at the reservoir if brake fluid was in the power bleeder. It did the job though!

DO NOT BUY 1108 ADAPTER.
 


Messages
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Location
Sydney
#35
You definitely need the three pronged Ford adapter (1107).
hey mate, were you able to get the Ford 1107 adapter to fit the fiesta ST reservoir?
Seriously I just tried getting it to fit on my car and FMD it will not go on at all - so frustrating as I want to change my brake fluid over and it looks dirty brown atm

FMD motive need to sort their shit out and provide a more comprehensive overview of what their products actually do and do not fit
 


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Location
San diego
#36
When you are using the 2 person method do you have ignition set to on while pumping the brakes?
 


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Location
Metro Detroit
#37
Old School Hi Tech brake bleeding circa 1960. BTW, I think this may have originated in NASCAR, those southern boys were quite adept at being efficient while using what they had on hand.

First, 3 things you have to be careful about observing, so if you have 3 people working together a full brake system can be bled quite quickly. Number one item that has to be watched closed is the brake fluid reservoir, don't let it empty or you'll have to do it all over again.

Items needed. A bit of rubber or nylon tubing that will tightly fit a bleeder valve, a small can of heavy wheel bearing grease, and a 1 pint or 1 quart Mason Jar. Note you can use a pop bottle but they are very easy to knock over and create a mess. You'll also want to put some good deep scratches on the Mason Jar so Momma doesn't try to use it for canning.

Now for the method.

1) Start at the farthest caliper from the master cylinder.
2) Remove the bleeder valve from the caliber and apply a thick coat of grease to act as an Air Seal. Screw the bleeder valve in until it seats and then back it out 2 turns.
3) Put about 2 inches of brake fluid into the Mason Jar.
4) Take that bit of hose and put a nut that fits snuggly over you hose over one end to act as a weight. Put the weighted end into that Mason Jar making sure that the end is submerged. Take the opposite end of that hose and snap it over the bleeder valve. Now you have a gas tight seal between the bit of brake fluid and the caliper.
5) Get into the drivers seat and start pumping the brake pedal to pump brake fluid into that mason jar. If you have someone watching you can just keep pumping until the reservoir needs a refil. One reservoir of fluid should be enough to totally fill the system from master cylinder to the brake you are working on.
6) Close the bleeder valve on the completed brake and remove the hose and move to the next brake and start and item 2 and repeat.

Notes:

If you use clear vinyl tubing and have third person to watch the fluid going into the Mason Jar you can call the job done as soon as you stop seeing bubbles in the fluid stream.

To minimize air migrating into the brake system I would suggest having a box of sharpened wood pencils handy. Cut them to a stub with wire cutters, or rose clippers as needed and jam the point into any open fitting as needed to plug that opening. Note, if anyone hits the brake pedal with these plugs in place they will ALL blow out and you'll have a heck of a mess to clean up and a brake system FULL of AIR. So complete each brake as an individual project and make sure that everyone near the car understands they MUST NOT TOUCH THE BRAKE PEDAL. I would also suggest locking the doors just to provide another layer of security.

As for the anti lock brake controller, the FiST is the first new car I've had in 34 years so I have zero experience with anti lock brakes. I would suggest paying attention to that antilock the brakes in an empty parking lot method posted earlier.

PS; used this method to bleed the clutch on a 1983 Honda Motorcycle that most folks thought could only be bled using a special Honda Brake Bleed machine. Using this method I had the system bled with 60 strokes of the clutch lever as fast as I could work it. This method just plain works.
 




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