Oil change intervals and other related tips?

[hispirish]

I am currently using their 5W-20 Signature Series, but it is the older formulation, which they did not claim helps prevent LSPI/intake valve deposits on TGDI engines, like they DO for the latest formulation.

Is it the newest, supposedly updated formulation in your sump?

LOL on the 'cult status' thing, but yeah, it sometimes seems that way.

As far as it being a 'hipster' oil choice; MANY on bitog swear by A.J. Amatuzio's products, and they (collectively, as a bunch) are about as far from being 'hipsters' as could possibly be, given how far right wingnutter most of them prove themselves to be on that site.

The stuff I'm using is the new formulation. I'm hoping that between that and the OCC, it will make a difference.

Cheers!

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[danbfree]

The car came from the factory with syn-blend oil & that's what the dealership uses for oil changes, so FoMoCo must figure a blend is sufficient for lubrication and to maintain warranty.
That said, after my second free oil change this spring, I'll be doing my own changes & use full synthetic with a premium filter changed annually (I put less than 5k a year on the car).

Just going to speak my mind, please, nothing personal... The Ford warranty is only 5/60, for my Kia 1.6T, it called for ACEA-A5 full synthetic 5w/30 or warranty would be void (if not proof at least full synthetic every 5k) and their warranty is 12/100k... Now, there are thing like theirs having an inconsistent, pig-rich tune to help with warranty too, and their suspension in other than the Stinger sucks (main reason I got rid of it) but I'll never not use full synthetic in a turbo car... But if you got 2 for free, then cool, hopefully that's over with at 10k miles as a nice break in, and you can settle into using full synthetic for longevity.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Just going to speak my mind, please, nothing personal... The Ford warranty is only 5/60, for my Kia 1.6T, it called for ACEA-A5 full synthetic 5w/30 or warranty would be void (if not proof at least full synthetic every 5k) and their warranty is 12/100k... Now, there are thing like theirs having an inconsistent, pig-rich tune to help with warranty too, and their suspension in other than the Stinger sucks (main reason I got rid of it) but I'll never not use full synthetic in a turbo car... But if you got 2 for free, then cool, hopefully that's over with at 10k miles as a nice break in, and you can settle into using full synthetic for longevity.

As much as that 'pig rich' tune could help with the Kia's longevity by preventing detonation under boost, it could also hurt it by over-diluting and thinning out the oil, and catalyzing with moisture and blow by to form acids in the sump, YES, even with 5K or less full synthetic changes if it is bad enough.

 

[danbfree]

As much as that 'pig rich' tune could help with the Kia's longevity by preventing detonation under boost, it could also hurt it by over-diluting and thinning out the oil, and catalyzing with moisture and blow by to form acids in the sump, YES, even with 5K or less full synthetic changes if it is bad enough.

There, you go, that makes perfect sense now, excellent point! Since the tune is so rich, the oil simply must be changed more often... As the Fiesta factory tune is much better, including properly leaned, then the oil doesn't foul as much either.. totally goes hand in hand!

 

[TDavis]

I bought my car brand new and did what some others have done which I think it proper but when it comes to Oil changes/what brand/what type to use its a can of worms.

I did the first oil change at 1,200 miles(Syn blend), second at 3,000 miles(Syn blend), and my next one will be at 5,000 miles and at that point I'll switch to 5w20 Full Syn. Every change after that will be every 5,000 miles.

 

[M-Sport fan]

As the Fiesta factory tune is much better, including properly leaned, then the oil doesn't foul as much either.. totally goes hand in hand!

I HOPE that you are correct in the above, since today I did a quick 'partial' change out of 2 fresh quarts of older formula Amsoil Signature Series I had left over, and the 2 quarts that I drained out of the sump smelled like I could have dumped it into the tank and ran just fine on it!

I am still on the factory tune at this point, and have done nothing mod wise that would cause it to run rich, but, I also do not do as many extended, long distance highway runs/road trips as most on here, so maybe that's whats causing it?
I DO try to drive it for at least for twenty five minutes or so every time I start it up, even if it means going out of my way and wasting some fuel, but that probably is not enough, even with a few 1 hour+ trips thrown in every once and a while.

 

[danbfree]

I HOPE that you are correct in the above, since today I did a quick 'partial' change out of 2 fresh quarts of older formula Amsoil Signature Series I had left over, and the 2 quarts that I drained out of the sump smelled like I could have dumped it into the tank and ran just fine on it!

I am still on the factory tune at this point, and have done nothing mod wise that would cause it to run rich, but, I also do not do as many extended, long distance highway runs/road trips as most on here, so maybe that's whats causing it?
I DO try to drive it for at least for twenty five minutes or so every time I start it up, even if it means going out of my way and wasting some fuel, but that probably is not enough, even with a few 1 hour+ trips thrown in every once and a while.

No, I hear you, and you may be partially right as far as extended driving but you are doing good by running it 20 minutes plus most occasions.. i think it's just how T-GDI cars are and is more proof that a high quality synthetic every 5000 miles is always a good idea... Also, catch cans will help as well, I'm strongly considering at least 1.

 

[M-Sport fan]

No, I hear you, and you may be partially right as far as extended driving but you are doing good by running it 20 minutes plus most occasions.. i think it's just how T-GDI cars are and is more proof that a high quality synthetic every 5000 miles is always a good idea... Also, catch cans will help as well, I'm strongly considering at least 1.

I have a Damond installed, and I drained about about 2 ounces out of it today, with about 1600 miles since the last drain, and that many miles on the oil that was in the sump.
The catch can does very little though, as far as fuel dilution goes.

 

[danbfree]

I have a Damond installed, and I drained about about 2 ounces out of it today, with about 1600 miles since the last drain, and that many miles on the oil that was in the sump.
The catch can does very little though, as far as fuel dilution goes.

Which spot do you have your catch can installed? I think the PCV/crank case would obviously affect the oil the most, the intake I don't really care about as that I believe can be VTA with a breather filter... maybe I have it wrong, heh...

 

[M-Sport fan]

Which spot do you have your catch can installed? I think the PCV/crank case would obviously affect the oil the most, the intake I don't really care about as that I believe can be VTA with a breather filter... maybe I have it wrong, heh...

It's hooked up in place of the factory PCV hose, just like most on here, and mounted back near the passenger side firewall on that strut tower stud, as is recommended in their install instructions.

 

[danbfree]

It's hooked up in place of the factory PCV hose, just like most on here, and mounted back near the passenger side firewall on that strut tower stud, as is recommended in their install instructions.

Excellent... It's just showing more and more that it's a GDI-T thing, I don't think there is much we can do about it... but at least your catch can will help with valve deposits, that's for sure...

 

[sullybosco]

Since our FiSTs have a turbocharger, I always use full synthetic oil. Full synthetic maintains its molecular integrity over a longer period than conventional oil does, and that's especially important for how much more heat it will need to withstand when compared to a naturally aspirated engine.

Since turbocharged engines are comparably more demanding than naturally aspirated engines, I won't wait any longer than 5,000 miles per interval. I think every 3,000 to 5,000 is a prudent range for our cars.

Now, if this were a naturally aspirated engine, I'd be inclined to decrease the maintenance interval to every 5,000 to 7,000 miles, assuming I'm using full synthetic.

I daily drive my FiST, so I change the oil once per season since I drive 38 miles per day on average.
Germanic Lincoln suspension repair
As for oil filters, I invariably choose Motorcraft since that's what's recommended in the manual.

I have a Kuga hybrid purchased in October 2022 from New. I have derived 1700 miles and the oil change light and Ford app is saying I need an oil change.is this a common fault?

 

[Downsy]

Ohhhh necrothread.

I run 5k mile OCIs (pretty much all my vehicles are on a 5k OCI) based on the severe duty portion of the manual. Both Semi-syn and Full Syn Motorcraft 5W-20 meet the spec required by the manual. You can get Motorcraft filters at Walmart around here along with Motorcraft oils, so no big deal there and pretty cheap. If you're doing 5k OCIs either one will probably work fine, if you were wanting to push for the 10k OCI I would run the full syn for sure. You can always run oil analysis on your changes and keep an eye on any kind of trends, fuel contamination being a big one. If you're to the point the oil obviously smells like fuel, you're probably contaminated.

I just changed mine the other day and sent a sample off to Blackstone. I look forward to seeing what it says, though I had limited info to give them since this was first change from used dealer pickup. They claim to have changed all the fluids and performed a full service. I don't trust that lol.