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Lower Front Stress Bar Install

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Hi I have a bit of an issue.

I understand I'm one of the first few people who ordered the 6 point brace (back in Oct 2014) but I'm coming across issues with mine.
With enough effort I managed to get the "4 point" part of the brace on, although the front 2 holes really should be bigger.
But the rear 2 points of the 6 point brace aren't even close to lining up.
I don't know why you guys build these braces with such low tolerances in aligning the bolt holes but this is already after I elongated the hole to what I thought was still a safe limit and it still didn't line up enough for me to throw a bolt in so you can imagine how awful the fit was.


long story short, I spent the whole day trying to get this ill fitting brace to work and ended up reinstalling everything as it was from factory after 3 tries at elongating the 2 rear holes. I'm pretty upset as I spent hours on my back trying to work this BS out and I feel like a bit of a guinea pig after this whole episode. Feel like I should've saved my money and got the 4 point if not the 2 point.

For the record my car has no accidents and has less than 10000 miles on it

P.s. Also it'd be a good idea to include some torque spec info for your customers in some kind of instruction sheet instead of me having to find a service manual and look it up.

P.P.S. It sounds like Joszer also had a similar experience a few pages back in this thread and westcoaST also had to enlarge the holes to get it to work.
Hey there-I'm so very sorry you had some struggles with it-your correct, the 6 point is much more challenging than the 2 or 4 point braces. The front crossmembers in the car are able to be adjusted/moved for alignment and that often causes the rear 2 points to be more difficult to get. We've got around 50 6 point braces sold now and we've installed quite a few so it's become a bit easier for us on the lift for sure. We're doing one this afternoon and I'll try an take some pics. All the braces are built on the jig---there's certainly movement/welding that pull cups/mounting points, but we'll anneal and size up holes accordingly. We've actually never had one of the fiesta lower braces not fit before (that we've shipped out), but there's always a first---I think we've got 1000's of braces out there over the last 20 years amongst the various cars so we've got a pretty good idea were the fitment issues arise and what the limit's are. Again I apologize for your struggles-I wish I was there to help/you were closer. With that said I don't want you stuck with a bar you think you can't use---Give me a PM and I'll get you my info---I'd like to have your bar back and test fit it on a car here/the jig. I've got 6 points in stock that just need to be coated and I can send you one them easily enough-thanks
 


westcoaST

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Actually, my previous post was a suggestion on a way to make the brace fit, not based on my install. I had the same problem as you did, Justinsane. I tried over the Christmas/New Years vacation to install my 6pt brace, but I gave up, as there is not enough room underneath my car for this old man to make it fit, and it was 35F in my garage. Mostly, the old man part though. My car is the one Jim will be working on. We will take photos, and I'll provide my play-by-play analysis on what Jim does to get this brace to fit.

Although I only met Jim once, when I picked up my braces, I can tell he takes pride in his products. I'm sure he will help you out, Justinsane.
 


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We just installed westcoaST's bar here. We put it on the jig and it lined up pretty well. I'd say it was about an average install---maybe 15 to 20 minutes or so. We had to really move the drivers side a-arm in and out to get it to line up...once we got them both started we tightened the front a-arm bolts up tight and that pulled the back four holes into place (with the a-arm bolts loose/just started the back doesn't look like it's lining up which may fool some/be discouraging...). We then started the middle bolts and ran them in a bit, then the back bolts did the same. Frank will chime in later when he get's home, but it wasn't anything out of the ordinary---we didn't have to mod anything or even move the crossmember back. With that said when he tried on his back in the garage it was much more challenging for him/he nicked it up a bit...





 


westcoaST

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Thanks Jim for all your help getting the 6pt bar installed. The two horizontal bolts must be tightened first. Then the middle two vertical bolts, then the final two vertical bolts on the end of the brace. Jim and I discussed making the 6pt bar easier to install. Jim came up with a good idea - using larger cups on the outer most part of the frame. a lift definitely helps with the install of a 6pt bar. Car feels much tighter now. I'm really happy with my purchase.
 


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Location
Vancouver
Yeah that's the order I did it in, front then middle then rear
The middle ones have the biggest holes and was by far the easiest to do. I didn't torque the front ones all the way down but maybe to 80 ft-lbs or so with my breaker bar.


I'm looking at this pic and I think it's more than mere coincidence that it seems the actual hole (on the car) is more towards the rear and out to the sides of the car compared to where the holes on the brace were drilled.

I hope we can figure something out that doesn't have me trying and failing again with the same brace.
 


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Location
Torrance
I think it's probably more centered (on this brace) than the pic shows---I took it and it was from one knee underneath the car pointing up and didn't get it as vertical as the shot of the middle/jig shots. Regardless if your concerned about it then send it back---I'd like to put it on the jig/a car-if it's off I'll replace it---if it fit's then we'll re-paint it and send right back...
 


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I think it's probably more centered (on this brace) than the pic shows---I took it and it was from one knee underneath the car pointing up and didn't get it as vertical as the shot of the middle/jig shots. Regardless if your concerned about it then send it back---I'd like to put it on the jig/a car-if it's off I'll replace it---if it fit's then we'll re-paint it and send right back...
Awesome customer service right here!
 


Chris G

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Bumping this up again so I can learn more about the install - can it be done on ramps or do you need to have it up on a lift or jack stands?
 


westcoaST

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If you are local, AND you are getting the 6 pt brace, have Jim install it. I believe you can install the 6pt on Jack stands, but a lift is so much easier. You should install the 2pt strut brace yourself.
 


Chris G

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I am going for the 2 point, but am unsure if it's literally as simple as pulling up on ramps, removing a nut at a time and attaching the brace. Is it really that easy? The suspension doesn't need to be unloaded via stands or a lift? Only reason I ask is because all I currently have is ramps.
 


westcoaST

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You need the suspension unloaded, the wheels need to droop, and you need to remove both bolts. Then, you will probably need to lift the knuckle, match up the hole centers, insert the bolts, tighten them up. I suggest using an impact wrench. those bolts are tight.
 


OP
D1JL

D1JL

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Thread Starter #235
You will need to put the car on stands.
It cannot be done with the wheels loaded.
However you should set the car on ramps or on the ground before tightening the two front bolts.


Dave


you got two in while I was typing
 


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D1JL

D1JL

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Thread Starter #237
Dave, he can also load the wheel with a floor jack
I agree.
That is how I did mine.

Dave


When you get old, you forget things from moment to moment.
 




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