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Clutch Line

rodmoe

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#1
Here are some pics of the clutch master to slave hydraulic line..

End view hard line from soft line


Hard line going into Master cyl


Flexible rubber hose section


Slave cyl end
 


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#2
Thank you, it does not look like there are any in line flow restrictors (the Focus ST does have some), unless they are built into the end fittings.
What do you think?
Seeing that you are the only person i know of that has taken the gear box out. Do you think my issue with the clutch pedal being slow to return is due to something wrong with the Slave or clutch line? (the master has already been replaced by ford.
Ford has no idea what the issue is and i have no were to go at this point.
Clutch pedal comes up fine if using it slowly, if i step on it fast and release fast it comes up very slow.

thank you for any help you can give me.
 


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rodmoe

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Thread Starter #3
So if you get in there and pump it by hand or have you foot assist it coming up does it make any difference in the feel? I know you can't do that while driving but if it is parked and you pump the pedal? Can you hear the fluid moving when you stroke the pedal ??
LOL I was going to go out and try my car but after i thought about my slave cyl being in the basement and car in the garage and all i didn't LOL so Until I get mine back together and give it a good bleeding I won't know if there is anything like that with mine. From what I recall mine never once was slow to return and that includes my track time ..
 


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#4
You can experience the issue by hand or by food, with the car running or not running. Going down the pedal feels fine (normal no issues). If you let it up slow or with medium speed you also do not experience any issues. If you lift off fast, it comes up slow and cannot keep up with your foot. It’s very hard to drive the car fast as you cannot shift let off the clutch and get on the gas. How hard is it to get at the clutch line? I was thinking of just trying to replace it myself. Is there anything else you can think of? Could this in any way be an issue with the slave?
 


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rodmoe

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Thread Starter #5
Getting to the line is Easy you just need to take the air intake off (air box and first tube to hard pipe intake) and perhaps the battery box and then it will all be there. Taking the lines off requires a small release device as they are quick connect couplers so I happened to have a set but they were not small enough to slide into the coupler end to release it from the slave cyl. I ended up hacking up a old small hose clamp and fitting it to the line so I could slide it in the coupler and release the line.. Not my brightest moment but it worked and save a drive to NAPA .. LOL later on of course I found a stash of shim stock I could have rolled to make a better tool... If you get it apart or even get to it there is a bleeder on the slave I would find a helper and try bleeding in into a glass or clear plastic jar to see if the flow looks proper when pedal is push and what happens when they release the pedal.. not sure it will show anything but a easy look. Also remember this car uses DOT 4 fluid and the brakes and clutch share a remote res. just a FYI
 


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rodmoe

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Thread Starter #7
something simple that got overlooked? Return spring on pedal? binding up there maybe?
Great idea ... this could be check while pumping the pedal by hand standing on your head under the dash.. I love that part of trouble shooting where it takes more time and effort to get these old bones into a place than to see the problem.. Thanks Mosh!!
 


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#8
Its very odd, the spring on the clutch pedal helps press the pedal not return it. Taking it off may actualy help me.
Take a look at this vid, this guy makes clutch lines for Mustangs. It may be smart to just go with this line. I am not sure if the fittings are the same.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_5U1j-gXGc
 


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rodmoe

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Thread Starter #9
HaHa I used Joe's line on my 2011 GT it did not fix the crappy shifter but his product was first rate .. Not sure those ends would work but you could email him and ask...

I hooked mine up and bled it very easy and seems ok though i did have a helper to see if it was working and the car is still on jackstands so I could not drive it yet but the clutch works..
 


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rodmoe

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Thread Starter #11
I measured it and with all the twists and turns and slack in the rubber hose I am guessing its about 44 inchs not sure 36 inch will reach. but maybe a direct route with the braided stainless line would be possible .. Ask them if it don't fit if you can return it.. worth a shot..
 


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#12
thank you very much so the stock line is about 44 but that is attached to the firewall, and shorter may work?
I wish i knew what the stock Fiesta fitting was called. It almost looks the end of my quick disconnect on my air tools.
I wonder if ford uses the same fitting on all there cars.
 


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rodmoe

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Thread Starter #13
thank you very much so the stock line is about 44 but that is attached to the firewall, and shorter may work?
I wish i knew what the stock Fiesta fitting was called. It almost looks the end of my quick disconnect on my air tools.
I wonder if ford uses the same fitting on all there cars.
Yes shorter may work and that was a tape measured guesitmate on the length so figure a fudge factor in there but it is a workable number.. maybe Call Joe Heck Racing and ask if you can try one out or maybe just the end and see if it fits the line can be sourced later ..
 


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#14
Ok I talked to Mcleod (I could not get Joe Heck?s number to work). It looks like the ends they use should work on the fiesta. Mcleod also sells a bleeder assembly. Would I need that? Or does the stock line go directly into the bleeder? (would I just need one length of line with the correct ends) They have a stock 34? line but can make any size I need.
See below picture
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/MCL-139252/Mcleod-Hydraulic-Clutch-Line-Mustang-05-14
 


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rodmoe

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Thread Starter #15


Our Slave has a bleeder built (its the lil barb looking thing in the above pic) into it so you shouldn't need that .. i would go a lil longer than 34 just to be safe..
 


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#16
Very cool, thank you a Ton!!!
heck, you may want to look into a line like this for your car seeing you have it apart.
 


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#17
you talked about a tool for taking out the clip, i do not mind buying one from NAPA would that be the best way to go?

also i just ordered a line - i had them make it 40" so i am sure it will fit.
 


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rodmoe

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Thread Starter #18
Yes if it is needed I'm not sure I was taking the line apart correctly and it is now all together so maybe if you remove the clip and squeeze the end with your finger it will come out .. If not NAPA is a sgood as any for that kinda thing.. Maybe like I said it isn't need and they can tell you more..
 


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#19
So the line connects to the master low on the firewall? its kind of hard to see from your pictures. Is there a way to do this from all under the car? or do i have to go through the aria of the battery?
 


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rodmoe

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Thread Starter #20
You will need to take out the air intake tube at least to get to the line and not sure what you will need to remove to get to the master .. I don't have a life so I work from jack stands and that is not a lot of room so I go in from above ..
 




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