• Sign Up! To view all forums and unlock additional cool features

    Welcome to the #1 Fiesta ST Forum and Fiesta ST community dedicated to Fiesta ST owners and enthusiasts. Register for an account, it's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Fiesta ST Forum today!


Just ordered Depo Euro replica projectors and HID's: Ongoing info, discussion and results

Messages
312
Likes
125
Location
Toronto
#21
Update: Headlight housings have made it to New York, we'll see how long they take to arrive from here... In the meantime, I've done a ton of research and will eventually be upgrading the projectors in the new Euro housings... I just have to decide which projector but I do know we do need 2.5" projectors and the Morimoto FX-R 3.0 in 2.5" have the best output of all 2.5" in this LightWerkz test. I just new if I need new shrouds or not, I do know I'll need the centric install rings, but all that will be down the road most likely. I also did a new thread on a guide to Euro headlights, I'll try to get it stickied.
You are not going to fit the fx-r it is a massive projector. You don't need to run 2.5", but you need to get a small unit which is why the 4tlr is ideal.

The MLED would also me a good idea as you can remove the threaded shaft. It just won't be modifiable, however the output is pretty good.
 


OP
danbfree

danbfree

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,510
Likes
1,201
Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
Thread Starter #22
You are not going to fit the fx-r it is a massive projector. You don't need to run 2.5", but you need to get a small unit which is why the 4tlr is ideal.

The MLED would also me a good idea as you can remove the threaded shaft. It just won't be modifiable, however the output is pretty good.
I'm lost now, I thought what I needed was a 2.5" which both 4LT-R and FX-R come in, I just don't get it now... I do now see even the 2.5" of the FX-R has large mounting specs than the 4LT-R, I just wish I knew what to look for specifically that will be the easiest to fit, other than the 4LT-R... Do I have to search for the word "mini" too? How do I know what to look for? I see that some have the threaded shaft, but we don't want that so it needs to be removable?
 


Last edited:
Messages
312
Likes
125
Location
Toronto
#23
I'm lost now, I thought what I needed was a 2.5" which both 4LT-R and FX-R come in, I just don't get it now... I do now see even the 2.5" of the FX-R has large mounting specs than the 4LT-R, I just wish I knew what to look for specifically that will be the easiest to fit, other than the 4LT-R... Do I have to search for the word "mini" too? How do I know what to look for? I see that some have the threaded shaft, but we don't want that so it needs to be removable?
Using 2.5" lens as a differentiator is easy because normally the projectors built for 2.5" lens are physically small. the fxr is supposed to be a 3" projector but was also modded to run as a 2.5" for some applications where a 2.5" lens would be preferred... but the length, height, and girth are a large size. You need to physically measure the depth available from the mounting point to the rear of the housing, also remember that you will need wiring and the connector to fit there as well, then measure the length from the mounting point to the headlight lens to ensure it will not contact it (and that is and angled lens to you have to think 3d), then you will have to consider which shroud to run, if you can re-use the OEM shroud (2.5" comes up here), trim it to fit a 3", or remove entirely and run a full or trimmed aftermarket shroud. So, as you can see, it is down to the overall dimension and how much modding you want to do or are capable of doing.
 


OP
danbfree

danbfree

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,510
Likes
1,201
Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
Thread Starter #24
Using 2.5" lens as a differentiator is easy because normally the projectors built for 2.5" lens are physically small. the fxr is supposed to be a 3" projector but was also modded to run as a 2.5" for some applications where a 2.5" lens would be preferred... but the length, height, and girth are a large size. You need to physically measure the depth available from the mounting point to the rear of the housing, also remember that you will need wiring and the connector to fit there as well, then measure the length from the mounting point to the headlight lens to ensure it will not contact it (and that is and angled lens to you have to think 3d), then you will have to consider which shroud to run, if you can re-use the OEM shroud (2.5" comes up here), trim it to fit a 3", or remove entirely and run a full or trimmed aftermarket shroud. So, as you can see, it is down to the overall dimension and how much modding you want to do or are capable of doing.
Thanks for clarifying a bit, I'll continue to look for 2.5" "mini" projectors and will keep the 4LT-R dimensions on hand as a reference, since they appear to have the easiest fit, to what else I can maybe use. Sounds like just about anything, even $20 cheapies will work even better than the factory ones, ~1600 lux vs. ~400 with 35w HID is worth looking for anything else that will fit.
 


OP
danbfree

danbfree

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,510
Likes
1,201
Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
Thread Starter #25
Update: The headlights are being delivered today!

Also, will definitely see how my setup actually works out on the road, I'm hoping for excellent results to where I'm itching to upgrade the projectors right away, we'll see!
 


Last edited:
OP
danbfree

danbfree

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,510
Likes
1,201
Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
Thread Starter #26
Way too lazy to post pics yet, but install is a bitch. From having to run to get blinker bulbs to getting the stupid H1 high beam swapped over, to yes, having to change the pin on my Depo's... Have the LED DRL on high but one of the pins jammed going back together so the HID isn't firing up yet, I may literally drive to work tomorrow with one head light of each, LOL!
 


OP
danbfree

danbfree

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,510
Likes
1,201
Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
Thread Starter #27
So happy with the overall quality but got a broken tab. Both vertical adjustment screws work great and they seem pretty level, but won't be able to tell until I get them working. Doing the pin change is a BEAR, even using the install guide here, I got the DRL LED working on high temporarily but now have nothing. The pins are all twisted and whatnot, I'm going to try to separate them, again, and push them individually to see if I can get the HID's to fire up. I have no lights at all on the driver side right now, but luckily don't have to drive at night right now, will have to try again when I get home from work.
 


Attachments

Last edited:

DangerMouse

Senior Member
Messages
813
Likes
334
Location
Rockford
#28
Dang that sucks about the broken tab. Moving the pin in the connector plug does suck. No room at all to work. I had one of the pins move on me when I put the white piece back into the connector plug and I didn't have high beams on one headlight. Bulbs were used so I went and bought new bulbs. Still no high beam. Took the connector back apart and found the issue. I have high beams now. I've probably only used them once though in the month or so I've had the headlights. I also found some new old stock sylvania silverstar turn signal bulbs. They look purple ish in the headlight and light up orange. I ran them on an old car 10 + years ago. I bought an extra set for when these burn out.
 


OP
danbfree

danbfree

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,510
Likes
1,201
Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
Thread Starter #29
Dang that sucks about the broken tab. Moving the pin in the connector plug does suck. No room at all to work. I had one of the pins move on me when I put the white piece back into the connector plug and I didn't have high beams on one headlight. Bulbs were used so I went and bought new bulbs. Still no high beam. Took the connector back apart and found the issue. I have high beams now. I've probably only used them once though in the month or so I've had the headlights. I also found some new old stock sylvania silverstar turn signal bulbs. They look purple ish in the headlight and light up orange. I ran them on an old car 10 + years ago. I bought an extra set for when these burn out.
Thanks man, and in my case I don't care too much about the tab, with that bottom slit thing doing all the main holding in place, there is just enough of the tab left to keep it down into place... now to figure out how to fix my wires, I should have used VirtualRonin's video where he just pops up the white wires separator slightly and move the pin from there instead of trying to follow the picture guide where he removes that thing entirely. Might even have to find an auto electric guy to help me out on that.
 


DangerMouse

Senior Member
Messages
813
Likes
334
Location
Rockford
#30
Yea mine twisted too with the white part removed. Once I got them in place I pulled the wires from the back to keep them in place and carefully put the white piece back, making sure each pin was in the correct spot. Would be nice if we had a harness adapter, if I ever have to go back to stock headlights I don't want to mess with it again.
 


OP
danbfree

danbfree

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,510
Likes
1,201
Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
Thread Starter #31
Yea mine twisted too with the white part removed. Once I got them in place I pulled the wires from the back to keep them in place and carefully put the white piece back, making sure each pin was in the correct spot. Would be nice if we had a harness adapter, if I ever have to go back to stock headlights I don't want to mess with it again.
I finally got them! The problem I had was the HID wires had to go backwards, I had it right the first time all along but I ended up totally ghetto rigged on the driver/first side I did first. The connector is completely cut away now and the passenger side took only a second try and was done in like 15 minutes, IMG_20190424_215505.jpg LOL IMG_20190424_215149.jpg

That wall shot is way too close and has night processing on, the glare isn't actually that bad!
 


Last edited:
OP
danbfree

danbfree

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,510
Likes
1,201
Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
Thread Starter #33
The glare isn't that bad? Bruh, that glare is BAD.
Like I said, I had night processing on and was only like 8 feet from the garage door so the pic came out ridiculous, not even close to on the road reality... There are projectors and all headlights should have a "little" glare to help light up signs ahead, these truly aren't bad at all, I need to get a better shot.
 


Messages
312
Likes
125
Location
Toronto
#34
those look pretty horrible actually. Get a normal shot at at least 25', but I also see the return wire shadow and there appears to be very little intensity (or at least the difference between the intensity of the glare and the actual beam appears to similar), also those lines at the bottom look like a strange light gradient will show, like waves... I think this projector is not good for anything other than halogen as my original testing showed to me.
The fact that the glare has a blue band is troubling, that means it isn't actually a squirrel finder but actually stray light. Maybe you need to mess with the bulb seating, or perhaps these just cannot use HID. Try an h7 halogen in one side and leave the hid in the other and take a photo please. IMG_20190424_215149.jpg
 


OP
danbfree

danbfree

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,510
Likes
1,201
Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
Thread Starter #35
those look pretty horrible actually. Get a normal shot at at least 25', but I also see the return wire shadow and there appears to be very little intensity (or at least the difference between the intensity of the glare and the actual beam appears to similar), also those lines at the bottom look like a strange light gradient will show, like waves... I think this projector is not good for anything other than halogen as my original testing showed to me.
The fact that the glare has a blue band is troubling, that means it isn't actually a squirrel finder but actually stray light. Maybe you need to mess with the bulb seating, or perhaps these just cannot use HID. Try an h7 halogen in one side and leave the hid in the other and take a photo please.
I need to get a better shot for sure... the headlight listing said LED bulb type but I think they were referring to the H1 bulb which is a nightmare to try to get seated... And the return wire faces down on these, not sure what's going on but let me get a better shot tonight with no processing at a greater distance, I'll have to try to go around to the backside of the grocery store or something for that. I may need a mounting spacer to bring the filament further back if these are indeed intended for halogen, but I have no desire to buy an H7 in halogen just to to test with either. I might just return these and go with the Katana H7 LED's which are tested really well in these.
 


Last edited:
Messages
312
Likes
125
Location
Toronto
#36
I need to get a better shot for sure... the headlight listing said LED bulb type but I think they were referring to the H1 bulb which is a nightmare to try to get seated... And the return wire faces down on these, not sure what's going on but let me get a better shot tonight with no processing at a greater distance, I'll have to try to go around to the backside of the grocery store or something for that. I may need a mounting spacer to bring the filament further back if these are indeed intended for halogen, but I have desire to buy an H7 in halogen just to to test with either.
I don't know what you mean by "led bulb type", but that doesn't mean the low or high beams, it means the drl strip. H1 isn't a nightmare, it is quite simple, perhaps you need to slow down and take your time as you are not very technical minded or handy it seems lol considering your pinning exercise haha.

You are getting the shadow and the strange striations likely because the hid kit is not a d2s, so its a rebased capsule and they are notorious for being of poor fitment and if you are off by 1mm or angled up or down by 1mm even you will get a completely different beam pattern and a huge loss of intensity, but also stray light everywhere. this is the same reason that led are no good either ;)
These projectors are not anywhere near good enough for hid, they are barely good enough for halogen, when I tested them they are just enough to put a little light down the road lol.
 


OP
danbfree

danbfree

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,510
Likes
1,201
Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
Thread Starter #37
I don't know what you mean by "led bulb type", but that doesn't mean the low or high beams, it means the drl strip. H1 isn't a nightmare, it is quite simple, perhaps you need to slow down and take your time as you are not very technical minded or handy it seems lol considering your pinning exercise haha.

You are getting the shadow and the strange striations likely because the hid kit is not a d2s, so its a rebased capsule and they are notorious for being of poor fitment and if you are off by 1mm or angled up or down by 1mm even you will get a completely different beam pattern and a huge loss of intensity, but also stray light everywhere. this is the same reason that led are no good either ;)
These projectors are not anywhere near good enough for hid, they are barely good enough for halogen, when I tested them they are just enough to put a little light down the road lol.
Not technical minded? I've been working in technology (at Intel as I type) and working on my own cars for 30 years... The H1 just doesn't want to push in and stay in, I have it all lined up, studied the clip as it sat in there from the factory. I'm not dumb, I just don't get it. I spent like 30+ minutes taking my time and all that, was only able to get one in... Also, what didn't help with the wiring is that the HID's actually needed reverse polarity, I had to swap the cables from white on white and grey on black to the OPPOSITE, LOL, I actually had the wiring right the first time, UGH! Not to mention not everyone has the finger dexterity to work with tiny connector tabs, etc unless you have regular experience working on that kind of stuff and who does, really?

Anyway, I sent an email to DDM Tuning who I had contacted with concerns after ordering their set, and they had assured me they had someone with a FiST in the same situation and it turned out great, yeah, right... I tried to explain my concerns and they insisted that the H7 kit worked great in theirs, ugh, not... But yeah, it's not that the KIT is an H7 kit, but that the socket itself is an H7 in the first place and indeed would have been better off using LED's designed to replicate halogen filament location OR those ONE HID for reflector hit by DeAuto LED, but I wasn't trying to spend $120 US... So, I'm going to work with DDM Tuning and see if they will exchange me for some their premium LED's as it does look terrible in the pic, a little better in person, but still...

I really don't want to be trying to split apart my headlights just to upgrade the projector, for NOW, anyway, I'm going to pressure DDM Tuning to send me some LED's instead or I send back to Amazon ASAP and order the Katana H7 LED's.
 


Messages
312
Likes
125
Location
Toronto
#39
Decision made: HID's going back, Katana LED are on order and arriving Saturday.
Take a pic first with halogen in one side and hid in the other, then measure lux at various spots with an app on your phone then repeat with the led.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
 


OP
danbfree

danbfree

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,510
Likes
1,201
Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
Thread Starter #40
Take a pic first with halogen in one side and hid in the other, then measure lux at various spots with an app on your phone then repeat with the led.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
I don't have an H7 halogen and I'm already swapping tomorrow. I'll post pics of the LED's in them tomorrow night.
 


Ford Community Posts



Top