Intake Noise

[Jay86]

Just wondering, the constant blowing/whine noise at around 2-3k rpm and slight load, is that regular intake noise or is that from the sound symposer? Normally I'm a fan of intake and turbo noises, but I could do without this one.

 

[A7xogg]

What mods do you have?

 

[JDG]

It is intake noise that is magnified by the sound symposer. The noise will likely be greatly diminished if you delete it.

 

[Jay86]

What mods do you have?

I'm stock. I found a youtube video that captures the noise, you can hear it around :24 and other parts.

[video=youtube;pfC9h-M4X-E]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfC9h-M4X-E [/video]

It is intake noise that is magnified by the sound symposer. The noise will likely be greatly diminished if you delete it.

Thanks. I'll have to try a delete and see if I like it better. Shame because it sounds great once you're on it, but a bit weird at low rpm imo.

 

[Intuit]

I got a four pack and therefore three extras.
This route literally takes a few minutes and looks stock. (don't over tighten)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NUFRS0C/
[video link removed - expansion plug ford sound symposer]
Not sure whether this guy does anything with his hose, but some sound will still go through there if left open.
[video link removed - ford symposer delete]

EDIT 25y01m01d:
The two [removed] video links had been replaced by incorrect and even unrelated video content.
The nutshell of the video is -
* unplug the engine side hose from the port,
* insert expansion plug,
* turn the bolt on the plug to snug the plug,
* plug hose back onto the port.

 

[ron@whoosh]

still not sure why people use hardware store parts on their beloved Fiesta
$19.99 gets you a true aluminum plug with proper euro clamp to replace the OEM spring clamp
If you use the forum discount code I offer (FIST5), the kit is actually $18.99 shipped to your door in most cases in about 3 days
Choice of Aluminum, Anodized Blue or Black

https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopify.com/collections/2014-2017-ford-fiesta-st/products/whoosh-brand-symposer-delete-kit-2014-2017-fiesta-st-free-shipping

 

[Intuit]

still not sure why people use hardware store parts on their beloved Fiesta

Wanted to avoid modification, appear 100% stock and be easily reversible is all. I don't even have any removed parts to store away for possible later reinstall. Guy in the first video had the same priorities.

If I were doing what the guy in the second video was doing, would've picked one of yours up when I saw it in your thread. Keep on enterprising Ron... [thumbup]

 

[ProDigit]

It is intake noise that is magnified by the sound symposer. The noise will likely be greatly diminished if you delete it.

Interesting!
I find the delete kits online from $40. Anything cheaper available?
I mean, it shouldn't cost that much, to just have a cap to cap off the vacuum?

 

[jtehh]

Interesting!
I find the delete kits online from $40. Anything cheaper available?
I mean, it shouldn't cost that much, to just have a cap to cap off the vacuum?

Sure, you can find in the forums or elsewhere some hardware store solutions that might run $5-$10 for blocking off the symposer port. But the cheapest symposer delete kit is the one Ron linked to above ($20 before discount). I went that route and it seems to be fine. It has a very nice metal plug and clamp and does the job.
The only thing it doesn't have that some of the more expensive kits have is a plug for the hose that runs through the firewall. That one isn't under vacuum, so doesn't really need a seal. I know some just cut the hose and/or tape the end shut. I think I stuffed a rag in the end and wrapped with tape.

 

[HBEcoBeaST]

My symposer 'kazoo' is glued on or something. I even bought extended hose clamps and still can't get it off.

A few paper towels in the one end that connects to the hose in the cabin fixed it. Super ghetto but it works.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[ProDigit]

I find there are risks with plugging a rubber expander plug in there.
Possibility of damaging the plastic, the rubber to start leaking, or get loose over time, might even fall in there and damage other parts.
As much as I would want to delete the whole thing, I think I'll go with the cork option.
Just stomp a cork in the cabin connector hose. It would be totally free, and keep the rest of the mechanism perfectly in tact for selling it at a later time.

I'm also concerned, when taking out the symposer box, and it's vertical hose, and plugging it in there, that there would be more PSI than it was engineered for.
The symposer box is not leaking, but it does allow the air to expand and contract more (like a buffer tank). When plugging it up, there's no more buffer tank to buffer the air; and my only concern is if there is a possibility of this causing damage in the long term?

 

[Ford ST]

Take the box off plug the hole with whatever you want problem solved. It has one purpose and one purpose only to make sound. I personally like the sound, so I'm going to keep mine on the car. In this thread a guy is offering you a solution for $20 that looks nice, but you post you can't find anything less than $40????

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

 

[Intuit]

I find there are risks with plugging a rubber expander plug in there.

If you leave the hose intact, don't over-torque, use neoprene rubber, use 1.125" plug, as mentioned in my post above, there are zero risks.

Possibility of damaging the plastic,

You can damage anything if you over torque things.

the rubber to start leaking,

Leak is highly unlikely and if done as mentioned prior, a leak would be inconsequential except for symposer noise in the cabin.

or get loose over time,

I actually used blue Loctite brand thread adhesive as a precaution. The metal cap on the plug is pinned beneath the tube. The plastic on a lock nut if substituted for one, might not like the engine bay temps.

might even fall in there and damage other parts.

The metal cap on the plug is too large to fit inside the plastic tube on the Symposer.

As much as I would want to delete the whole thing, I think I'll go with the cork option. Just stomp a cork in the cabin connector hose.

I think this has the advantage of plugging the leak at the firewall, instead of the symposer. When there's a sound leak via the firewall, it can be surprisingly audible. Hopefully it is easy to reach and even easier to remove. Downside is I'm not sure that the hose would hold pressure, if the symposer were to spring a leak. Under failure mode, plugging at the symposer would be better.

It would be totally free, and keep the rest of the mechanism perfectly in tact for selling it at a later time. I'm also concerned, when taking out the symposer box, and it's vertical hose, and plugging it in there, that there would be more PSI than it was engineered for. The symposer box is not leaking, but it does allow the air to expand and contract more (like a buffer tank). When plugging it up, there's no more buffer tank to buffer the air; and my only concern is if there is a possibility of this causing damage in the long term?

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...6CB2EE35CC0A082244AD6CB2EE35CC0A&&FORM=VRDGAR
Removing all that "complexity" is going to result with less points of failure. A lot of the folks that remove the box also have performance mods, such as "big turbo" and "BOV". Even if they were to run crazy 30 PSI boost pressures, I suspect it'll be a problem for some other components, prior to it being a problem for the cap that they're using.

 

[PhoenixM3]

Take the box off plug the hole with whatever you want problem solved. It has one purpose and one purpose only to make sound. I personally like the sound, so I'm going to keep mine on the car. In this thread a guy is offering you a solution for $20 that looks nice, but you post you can't find anything less than $40????

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

D cell battery works like a champ.

 

[Intuit]

In case someone takes that suggestion seriously, that may not be be the best option due to the amount of heat exposure coupled with the D-Cell battery's propensity to leak electrolyte.

 

[PhoenixM3]

In case someone takes that suggestion seriously, that may not be be the best option due to the amount of heat exposure coupled with the D-Cell battery's propensity to leak electrolyte.

Not an issue, actually. It could happen of course, but it hasn’t in over 2 years of use with my ‘15 FiST. Hell, you could use a cork and a hose clamp and go even cheaper still.