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stuntdoogie

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Nice man! Just need the fmic and you'll be set for stage 3 ots.
I think im gonna pass on the fmic till i upgrade the turbo which will not be till after 60k or 5years. Just gonna replace the charge pipe and Im good for a while.
 


Messages
310
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62
Location
Atlanta
We are still running the stock IC piping and IC. While it will improve power, we are happy with our 275+wtq right now. The big issue was, no matter the map we ran, the radiator isnt up to par to keep the motor cool for extended periods.
 


iso100

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Wonder how much of that is increased cooling system load due to the oil cooler. Would a supplemental air/oil cooler help maybe?
 


Messages
52
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2
Location
PARK CITY
We are still running the stock IC piping and IC. While it will improve power, we are happy with our 275+wtq right now. The big issue was, no matter the map we ran, the radiator isnt up to par to keep the motor cool for extended periods.
What coolant are you running?
 


rodmoe

5000 Post Club
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Location
wausau
We are still running the stock IC piping and IC. While it will improve power, we are happy with our 275+wtq right now. The big issue was, no matter the map we ran, the radiator isnt up to par to keep the motor cool for extended periods.
Have you pulled all the silly plastic off the back of the Rad ? I was looking at that and really only flow thru a few pass side vents and the hole for the fan... Makes for quick warm ups in the winter but wow talk about restricted air flow
 


iso100

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Redline Water Wetter could drop a degree or two but that really only addresses the symptom, not the cause.
 


airjor13

2000 Post Club
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Location
Centreville
Redline Water Wetter could drop a degree or two but that really only addresses the symptom, not the cause.
Coming for the 2 wheel world, water wetter doesn't do anything unless you are running straight distilled water on a track machine, WW mixed with 50/50....no good
 


airjor13

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Centreville
Have you pulled all the silly plastic off the back of the Rad ? I was looking at that and really only flow thru a few pass side vents and the hole for the fan... Makes for quick warm ups in the winter but wow talk about restricted air flow
Have you pulled it off Rod?
 


rodmoe

5000 Post Club
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wausau
Have you pulled it off Rod?
Not yet but i was thinking about it untill I looked outside and it was snowing again today !! freakin winter will you ever END !!! But on the upside UPS did stop and cheered me up with a new axle seal and a new toy for filling the coolant system from UVIEW and there airlift system.. yeah no more burping or so i hope...
 


Messages
310
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62
Location
Atlanta
I will look at the shroud and see if that helps. By lap three the water temps climbed to 225-229 in traffic.. then 215-219 outside of traffic. A 3row would really do the trick. I was still on the stock coolant. Nothing cools better than straight water.
 


rodmoe

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I will look at the shroud and see if that helps. By lap three the water temps climbed to 225-229 in traffic.. then 215-219 outside of traffic. A 3row would really do the trick. I was still on the stock coolant. Nothing cools better than straight water.
Ya looked in the book and it seems the fan mount is part of the shroud.. but maybe you can open up the passengers side as theyhave those funky litle vents..



There are a few other steps to getting it out like taking sound symposer off and charge piping and some clips on top plus the wires and such but you get the idea i hope
 


RAAMaudio

5000 Post Club
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Location
Carson City
If you use a hole saw, several sizes, you can open it up a great deal and still have a fan mount, I have done this on a few different cars and it worked great.
 


stuntdoogie

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Location
NYC
When its time to remove/cut the stock exhaust im gonna keep it and put it in storage incase I ever wanna put back on. I need advice on what part of the piping is best to have it cut?
 


CanadianST

Active member
Messages
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Location
Prince Edward Island
When its time to remove/cut the stock exhaust im gonna keep it and put it in storage incase I ever wanna put back on. I need advice on what part of the piping is best to have it cut?
I'd imagine the straight part about midway down would be the best. You could then clamp/weld it back together later fairly easy.
 


RAAMaudio

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Carson City
I think it best to cut it around the axle somewhere because it will be difficult to remove with all the bends in it if you do not cut it there. Best thing to do is see where the aftermarket units are bolted together and use that location. Most if not all are in three pieces to shorten them up for shipping, I would not go by the more forward joint, just the rear one.

Or, lift the car up really high on some jack stands, disconnect the brake caliper, shocks, and loosen the nuts that attach the axle and pivot the axle down and take it out in one big section like I did. Only get some help, it is a bugger to handle by yourself. Disclaimer, not sure jack stands will work as I used my lift.
 


RAAMaudio

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Location
Carson City
I talked to the race shop at MMP yesterday, David there was very helpful to say the least:)

No heat issues with the Fiesta ST so far but they are stock.

Major heat issues with the Focus ST so several steps taken to cure them.

I mentioned my idea of opening up more of the top grill by drilling out the holes looked at using a dremel to clean them up, very time consuming so decided to sand them down from the back. That is exactly what they did on the Focus.

I am considering removing the water to oil cooler, it will allow the radiator to do a bit more for cooling the engine, and installing a thermostat controlled sandwhich plate under the oil filter, I have a Mocal here I can use.

I will install a much larger oil filter as well, more oil, more surface area to help cool, more filtering.
 


rodmoe

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I think it best to cut it around the axle somewhere because it will be difficult to remove with all the bends in it if you do not cut it there. Best thing to do is see where the aftermarket units are bolted together and use that location. Most if not all are in three pieces to shorten them up for shipping, I would not go by the more forward joint, just the rear one.

Or, lift the car up really high on some jack stands, disconnect the brake caliper, shocks, and loosen the nuts that attach the axle and pivot the axle down and take it out in one big section like I did. Only get some help, it is a bugger to handle by yourself. Disclaimer, not sure jack stands will work as I used my lift.
This was what i was going to say.. ;)
 




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