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Fiesta ST Backup Camera Intall Guide(Without Damaging your Vehicle)

Messages
6
Likes
5
Location
Longmont, CO, USA
#1
So here's my Half Assed Guide to Installing a Backup Camera without permanently Damaging your car and without adding a new Head Unit/Extra Screen

Video for Forscan programing that I used:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMpCD_f669o&t=955s


Forscan OBDII port: https://www.amazon.com/Forscan-Scan...s=ELM327+OBD2+connector&qid=1647026238&sr=8-2

Best Camera that fits in the license plate light(the light on it is cooler than stock so plan on putting in a replacement 5000k or cooler led in the other light): https://www.amazon.com/Reversing-Rearview-License-Replacement-Waterproof/dp/B07PRS72K6/ref=sr_1_9?crid=31ACOEL5U98WX&keywords=fiesta+st+backup+camera&qid=1646843204&sprefix=fiesta+st+back,aps,162&sr=8-9

Adapter for radio harness that adds back up camera pins: https://www.ebay.com/itm/363864743756?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=mbgc7-bot1c&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=HLOC2lJrQp-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=SMS

Also needed: 20-22 Gauge wire, Wire stripers, Wire fisher/mechanics wire, heat-shrink, Solder and soldering “gun”(all connections should be soldered and at least Electrical taped to reduce interference), Multi-meter to test connections.

When I installed my back up camera(twice due to body shop destroying my first) it took a lot of time but was a huge benefit added to my car. It has been a few months since I installed my second one but while browsing some forums I saw people drilling holes in their car behind their license plate and I felt that I had to stop people from doing horrible irreversible damage to their car. But the install is fairly simple except for the Forscan programing but that is why I linked the video.

First off the video I linked for the Forscan is a decent video to follow along with but I wrote this out so its easy to find the information. To start take off the interior trim on the hatch(3 screws and then pulls off but be very careful). Unscrew the bolts that hold the exterior middle moulding that holds the license plate lights. Carefully take off the exterior moulding and unplug the connector, take out the light on the drivers side and put the camera in so that the light on the camera is closest to the license plate. Connect the wire for the light then push the wires for the camera through the grommet and test to make sure the license plate light works.

You can use the connector/wire they supply with it but you have to connect the wires to pins in the end no matter what so I prefer to use my own good wire instead of the wire they supply because it rips way to easily and I don’t trust it to hold up especially in areas that move. I personally cut off the rca connector so make fishing the wire easier(you can splice the wires to the connector later on). Use the fishing wire to fish 3 wires from the bottom of the hatch through the car body panels and then trough the rubber grommet that connects to the car itself(it takes a long time). One of the three wires goes to one of the tail lights and you will need to splice into the reverse lights. The other two will go directly to the head unit.

You can do the Forscan programing before the next step if you would like but you can do it at the end. Take off the Radio head unit trim and the screen(trim has 4-6 clips that just pull out and the screen is held in with 4 Torx screws). Remove the wiring harness in the head unit(the lever release is weird just know you have to raise the lever toward the wires coming out the side). From here just run the wires from the back into the space that the factory head is located.
Put this adapter in between the original harness and the head unit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3638647437...HLOC2lJrQp-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=SMS
Splice the original rca connection to the wire you ran and connect that to the female rca on the new adapter.

(Other way of doing it that is harder and takes more time)Take the plastic connector off of the wiring blocks(main wiring harness) and try not to damage the connector like I did(“should” just slide out while depressing the side stops). Connect the 2 wires to female terminals(provided on the list). The terminals will go into the 14 and 15 slots in the wiring block(I believe that the 14 is the “negative” and the 15 is “positive” but it has been awhile so don’t quote me on that). Make sure the terminals are at the same depth as the others already in the block.

After this you should be done and your camera should work after the Forscan programing, you can also turn off the reverse delay in your sync settings so that it doesn’t give you a warning when you take the car out of reverse. That is really all that I remember from when I did it so ask questions if you have them.
 


Last edited:
OP
Molten black
Messages
6
Likes
5
Location
Longmont, CO, USA
Thread Starter #4
So whether it's Sync 2 or Sync 3 the ForScan codes are the same?
I believe sync 3 has more options but I believe they use the same codes. I would verify it 100% tho because I have sync 2 and I do not know about sync 3 for sure.
 


Messages
3
Likes
0
Location
Usa
#6
So, I'm trying to set up a camera and I bought the metripack connectors your suggested but In my dry run of assembling everything the connectors seem too large to fit into the wiring harness.

Is there some trick?

Or possibly the wrong size?
 


booba

New Member
Messages
2
Likes
0
Location
chicago
#7
So here's my Half Assed Guide to Installing a Backup Camera without permanently Damaging your car and without adding a new Head Unit/Extra Screen

Video for Forscan programing that I used:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMpCD_f669o&t=955s


Forscan OBDII port: https://www.amazon.com/Forscan-Scan...s=ELM327+OBD2+connector&qid=1647026238&sr=8-2

do yk how to get apple car play in my 2016 ford fiesta st?
 


@Salty_FiST

Member
Premium Account
Active Duty U.S. Air Force
Messages
78
Likes
36
Location
Crestview Florida
#8
I used this backup camera.
HD 1280x720p Rear Reversing Camera Integrated in Trunk Handle Rear View Backup Camera for Land Rover Freelander Range Rover Ford Mondeo Fiesta S-Max Focus 2C 3C https://a.co/d/dmT0IMz

Has good resolution and angle. Plus it has the truck release button that has never not worked exactly as it should and the rubber is still in the condition it was when received in the mail. The fitment was just about perfect.

I used this at the head unit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3638647437...HLOC2lJrQp-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=SMS

Thought about doing a write up on this as well because I feel like I did a super clean and non hack job job.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
 


OP
Molten black
Messages
6
Likes
5
Location
Longmont, CO, USA
Thread Starter #9
New radio or sync 3 upgrade
I used this backup camera.
HD 1280x720p Rear Reversing Camera Integrated in Trunk Handle Rear View Backup Camera for Land Rover Freelander Range Rover Ford Mondeo Fiesta S-Max Focus 2C 3C https://a.co/d/dmT0IMz

Has good resolution and angle. Plus it has the truck release button that has never not worked exactly as it should and the rubber is still in the condition it was when received in the mail. The fitment was just about perfect.

I used this at the head unit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3638647437...HLOC2lJrQp-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=SMS

Thought about doing a write up on this as well because I feel like I did a super clean and non hack job job.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
Thank you for adding this I included the adapter you bought in my write up and I have no experience with that trunk camera so I didn’t want to add it. Appreciate your addition and by all means if you would like to spend the time everyone would appreciate another write up if you feel I missed something!
 


Messages
3
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0
Location
Usa
#10
So I completed my install
I used the hatch latch camera from Amazon and a wiring harness from ebay. I wired it to the reverse lights.

I tried to wire it to the stock harness but found the metripack connectors from Amazon too large for the harness plug. Maybe they sent me the wrong ones, maybe my harness plug was wrong. Maybe I'm an idiot and missed something in the process.

The camera I received, and others I have seen online, have a cord already wired with a very small male plug at the end. This male plug fits into a female connector that you then wire the power and plug the rca into.

This is good so you only have to run one wire through the boot.

This is bad because the plug is in no way secure. It does not click into place. It is not secure. And it will come undone. I tried to tape it but this did not keep it in place. So the day after I installed the camera it stopped working. I had to disassemble the trim to re secure the plug. I have since glued it, but I suspect it will work loose again.
 


OP
Molten black
Messages
6
Likes
5
Location
Longmont, CO, USA
Thread Starter #11
So I completed my install
I used the hatch latch camera from Amazon and a wiring harness from ebay. I wired it to the reverse lights.

I tried to wire it to the stock harness but found the metripack connectors from Amazon too large for the harness plug. Maybe they sent me the wrong ones, maybe my harness plug was wrong. Maybe I'm an idiot and missed something in the process.

The camera I received, and others I have seen online, have a cord already wired with a very small male plug at the end. This male plug fits into a female connector that you then wire the power and plug the rca into.

This is good so you only have to run one wire through the boot.

This is bad because the plug is in no way secure. It does not click into place. It is not secure. And it will come undone. I tried to tape it but this did not keep it in place. So the day after I installed the camera it stopped working. I had to disassemble the trim to re secure the plug. I have since glued it, but I suspect it will work loose again.
you did use a different camera then what I used so I didn’t have the same problem but I would recommend you just cut the connectors off and solder them or use your own connectors
 


Messages
64
Likes
79
Location
Canada
#12
I'm looking at doing this, did you end up wiring the camera to constant power? Would that eliminate the issues you had with camera unavailable and the blank screen?
 


OP
Molten black
Messages
6
Likes
5
Location
Longmont, CO, USA
Thread Starter #13
I'm looking at doing this, did you end up wiring the camera to constant power? Would that eliminate the issues you had with camera unavailable and the blank screen?
I just connected it to the reverse light and I haven’t really had any problems. I have no idea how long the cheap cameras will last so if you give it constant power it might break.
 


Bull Run

Member
U.S. Army Veteran
Messages
246
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404
Location
Chandler, AZ, USA
#14
I just connected it to the reverse light and I haven’t really had any problems. I have no idea how long the cheap cameras will last so if you give it constant power it might break.
I installed a cheap camera from Amazon back in October of 2021 using switched 12v source from the rear wiper, and it held up well so far. I suspect OEM cameras' also have constant power as it there's an to leave the camera display on for a little longer when driving forward. Helps with parking in certain situations.
 


Messages
426
Likes
715
Location
Ontario, CA, USA
#15
So with the adapter you don’t have to use the Metripack connectors right? So where does the ground wire connect too if using the adapter or is it not needed anymore?
 


Bull Run

Member
U.S. Army Veteran
Messages
246
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404
Location
Chandler, AZ, USA
#16
So with the adapter you don’t have to use the Metripack connectors right? So where does the ground wire connect too if using the adapter or is it not needed anymore?
That's correct, I ended up using this from 4Dtech.com. I just used a ground point near the camera in the rear.

1679590093991.png
 


Messages
62
Likes
46
Location
Arizona, USA
#19
is there a need to pull any interior apart beyond the dash and the hatch? i intend to do this job soon, but not sure how bad it's going to get
 


Messages
139
Likes
142
Location
Atlanta
#20
You have to run the cable to the back of the car.

I was able to run it under the edge of the rubber across the roof edge but had to pull the trim around the trunk/hatch window on that side to get the cable across the back of the headliner. You may be able to fish it across with some wire, just be careful of the other connections up there.

Getting the wire around the hatch to the body wiring harness is also not fun, just be patient. I ended up using the plastic cable for my weedeater to get it around - it is flexible, didnt scratch the paint, and the inherent curve worked in my favor to get it around the top part of the hatch. Took about 20 minutes to get it sorted out.

Also, need to get to the reverse light cable to power the camera. That also required removing the hatch window trim, and the fabric hatch liner on that side to tap the wire in the quarter panel. Not hard either, just take your time.

There are several vids on YouTube that provide a decent overview.
 


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