Pretty sure on the honda D16 motors they preferred "studding" the block. They would drill into the side of the block and tap it with threads. Then run a stud thru the block until it hit the cylinder. Then they would cut the left over piece off stud off and epoxy over it. This way, when the cylinder tried to distort side to side ( or front of the car to back of the car ), the studs would help support it.
At the sametime, the "block girdles" that open deck D16 motors have avaliable needed to be installed by a machine shop. Often during install, the girdle would distort the cylinder when it was pressed in. And on top of that... The reduced cooling ( due to this big piece of alum in your water jacket that wasn't supposed to be there ) sometimes caused motors to run warmer than than they had before.
But that's what I remember from my D16 years on "home made turbo .com" like 13 years ago, lol.
I never had a set of rods/pistons that could push the stock sleeves in my D16. It was a $200 long block, why bother? Lol.