-
Sign Up! To view all forums and unlock additional cool features
Welcome to the #1 Fiesta ST Forum and Fiesta ST community dedicated to Fiesta ST owners and enthusiasts. Register for an account, it's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Fiesta ST Forum today!
Budget full coilovers from Godspeed
- Thread starter CMbuildz Racing
- Start date
I AGREE
Looks like BC, at least a few years back they made most everything out of Asia that was not Japanese but I was told they kept the best for themselves but many have had good luck running different lower cost brands, hope you do as well
----------
Advice from a long time, 49 years in fact, of modding cars, first lowered car was a 510 back in 1970 or so, I am the older guy into making cars look and work better.
Car looks a bit to low for optimal handling, you want the pivot point of the front ball joints to be slightly lower than the front control arm front inboard pivot point, any lower hugely effects the amount of grip as it will transfer nearly all the weight to the outside tires in a turn making it nearly a two wheeled car instead of 4.
This puts more strain on everything and makes the suspension far less effective as well and will wear out everything faster.
Once the ball pivot points are even the effect is significant, just a tiny bit lower on the inside makes a huge difference, one I have done real time testing of, 2 seconds difference on a 45 second autocross course is huge and the car was far harder to drive fast. The effects would be far worse on a bumpy surface and can be so bad at times become a serious safety issue.
I did not measure the drop on my car, I measured the pivot points then set it accordingly and set the rear slightly higher than the front going by the pinch welds under the rocker panels.
My car looks great that way, still have to be careful with the splitter, rides great, clears things better when junk on the road and handles good enough my buddy in his Nationl Championship C6 vette said he could not gain on me in a technical section of the track, he was blown away at how fast my car was there.
Of course it is your car, do as you wish, I just like to post these things up to help others be aware of things most modding cars do not know about.
Looks like BC, at least a few years back they made most everything out of Asia that was not Japanese but I was told they kept the best for themselves but many have had good luck running different lower cost brands, hope you do as well
----------
Advice from a long time, 49 years in fact, of modding cars, first lowered car was a 510 back in 1970 or so, I am the older guy into making cars look and work better.
Car looks a bit to low for optimal handling, you want the pivot point of the front ball joints to be slightly lower than the front control arm front inboard pivot point, any lower hugely effects the amount of grip as it will transfer nearly all the weight to the outside tires in a turn making it nearly a two wheeled car instead of 4.
This puts more strain on everything and makes the suspension far less effective as well and will wear out everything faster.
Once the ball pivot points are even the effect is significant, just a tiny bit lower on the inside makes a huge difference, one I have done real time testing of, 2 seconds difference on a 45 second autocross course is huge and the car was far harder to drive fast. The effects would be far worse on a bumpy surface and can be so bad at times become a serious safety issue.
I did not measure the drop on my car, I measured the pivot points then set it accordingly and set the rear slightly higher than the front going by the pinch welds under the rocker panels.
My car looks great that way, still have to be careful with the splitter, rides great, clears things better when junk on the road and handles good enough my buddy in his Nationl Championship C6 vette said he could not gain on me in a technical section of the track, he was blown away at how fast my car was there.
Of course it is your car, do as you wish, I just like to post these things up to help others be aware of things most modding cars do not know about.
I AGREE
Looks like BC, at least a few years back they made most everything out of Asia that was not Japanese but I was told they kept the best for themselves but many have had good luck running different lower cost brands, hope you do as well
----------
Advice from a long time, 49 years in fact, of modding cars, first lowered car was a 510 back in 1970 or so, I am the older guy into making cars look and work better.
Car looks a bit to low for optimal handling, you want the pivot point of the front ball joints to be slightly lower than the front control arm front inboard pivot point, any lower hugely effects the amount of grip as it will transfer nearly all the weight to the outside tires in a turn making it nearly a two wheeled car instead of 4.
This puts more strain on everything and makes the suspension far less effective as well and will wear out everything faster.
Once the ball pivot points are even the effect is significant, just a tiny bit lower on the inside makes a huge difference, one I have done real time testing of, 2 seconds difference on a 45 second autocross course is huge and the car was far harder to drive fast. The effects would be far worse on a bumpy surface and can be so bad at times become a serious safety issue.
I did not measure the drop on my car, I measured the pivot points then set it accordingly and set the rear slightly higher than the front going by the pinch welds under the rocker panels.
My car looks great that way, still have to be careful with the splitter, rides great, clears things better when junk on the road and handles good enough my buddy in his Nationl Championship C6 vette said he could not gain on me in a technical section of the track, he was blown away at how fast my car was there.
Of course it is your car, do as you wish, I just like to post these things up to help others be aware of things most modding cars do not know about.
Looks like BC, at least a few years back they made most everything out of Asia that was not Japanese but I was told they kept the best for themselves but many have had good luck running different lower cost brands, hope you do as well
----------
Advice from a long time, 49 years in fact, of modding cars, first lowered car was a 510 back in 1970 or so, I am the older guy into making cars look and work better.
Car looks a bit to low for optimal handling, you want the pivot point of the front ball joints to be slightly lower than the front control arm front inboard pivot point, any lower hugely effects the amount of grip as it will transfer nearly all the weight to the outside tires in a turn making it nearly a two wheeled car instead of 4.
This puts more strain on everything and makes the suspension far less effective as well and will wear out everything faster.
Once the ball pivot points are even the effect is significant, just a tiny bit lower on the inside makes a huge difference, one I have done real time testing of, 2 seconds difference on a 45 second autocross course is huge and the car was far harder to drive fast. The effects would be far worse on a bumpy surface and can be so bad at times become a serious safety issue.
I did not measure the drop on my car, I measured the pivot points then set it accordingly and set the rear slightly higher than the front going by the pinch welds under the rocker panels.
My car looks great that way, still have to be careful with the splitter, rides great, clears things better when junk on the road and handles good enough my buddy in his Nationl Championship C6 vette said he could not gain on me in a technical section of the track, he was blown away at how fast my car was there.
Of course it is your car, do as you wish, I just like to post these things up to help others be aware of things most modding cars do not know about.
When I see and overly lowered car I know I am looking at a severely compromised car and it turns me off immediately no matter how the rest of the car looks. When I see one with crazy camber, skinny tires of wide wheels I just cannot even comprehend following such a silly fad just to get looked at and impress those others that do not think for themselves.
I know my thoughts are not always appreciated by everyone but I will continue to post them because I hope it will sway some that do not know better to think more clearly and make wiser and safer decisions since they are out on our public roads in their compromised cars.
I know my thoughts are not always appreciated by everyone but I will continue to post them because I hope it will sway some that do not know better to think more clearly and make wiser and safer decisions since they are out on our public roads in their compromised cars.
OP
Thread Starter
#25
Thread Starter
#25
I AGREE
Looks like BC, at least a few years back they made most everything out of Asia that was not Japanese but I was told they kept the best for themselves but many have had good luck running different lower cost brands, hope you do as well
----------
Advice from a long time, 49 years in fact, of modding cars, first lowered car was a 510 back in 1970 or so, I am the older guy into making cars look and work better.
Car looks a bit to low for optimal handling, you want the pivot point of the front ball joints to be slightly lower than the front control arm front inboard pivot point, any lower hugely effects the amount of grip as it will transfer nearly all the weight to the outside tires in a turn making it nearly a two wheeled car instead of 4.
This puts more strain on everything and makes the suspension far less effective as well and will wear out everything faster.
Once the ball pivot points are even the effect is significant, just a tiny bit lower on the inside makes a huge difference, one I have done real time testing of, 2 seconds difference on a 45 second autocross course is huge and the car was far harder to drive fast. The effects would be far worse on a bumpy surface and can be so bad at times become a serious safety issue.
I did not measure the drop on my car, I measured the pivot points then set it accordingly and set the rear slightly higher than the front going by the pinch welds under the rocker panels.
My car looks great that way, still have to be careful with the splitter, rides great, clears things better when junk on the road and handles good enough my buddy in his Nationl Championship C6 vette said he could not gain on me in a technical section of the track, he was blown away at how fast my car was there.
Of course it is your car, do as you wish, I just like to post these things up to help others be aware of things most modding cars do not know about.
Looks like BC, at least a few years back they made most everything out of Asia that was not Japanese but I was told they kept the best for themselves but many have had good luck running different lower cost brands, hope you do as well
----------
Advice from a long time, 49 years in fact, of modding cars, first lowered car was a 510 back in 1970 or so, I am the older guy into making cars look and work better.
Car looks a bit to low for optimal handling, you want the pivot point of the front ball joints to be slightly lower than the front control arm front inboard pivot point, any lower hugely effects the amount of grip as it will transfer nearly all the weight to the outside tires in a turn making it nearly a two wheeled car instead of 4.
This puts more strain on everything and makes the suspension far less effective as well and will wear out everything faster.
Once the ball pivot points are even the effect is significant, just a tiny bit lower on the inside makes a huge difference, one I have done real time testing of, 2 seconds difference on a 45 second autocross course is huge and the car was far harder to drive fast. The effects would be far worse on a bumpy surface and can be so bad at times become a serious safety issue.
I did not measure the drop on my car, I measured the pivot points then set it accordingly and set the rear slightly higher than the front going by the pinch welds under the rocker panels.
My car looks great that way, still have to be careful with the splitter, rides great, clears things better when junk on the road and handles good enough my buddy in his Nationl Championship C6 vette said he could not gain on me in a technical section of the track, he was blown away at how fast my car was there.
Of course it is your car, do as you wish, I just like to post these things up to help others be aware of things most modding cars do not know about.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Perfect term, putting the roll center "underground" but sadly it has put many drivers and passengers and sometimes innocent bystanders permanently underground as well. These days of cheap and far more than enough power couple with the ignorance of severely compromised handling has had a terrible toll on many lives and put more pressure on all of us into modding cars, higher insurance costs, more laws against modding, etc...
![[ridinghorse]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_ridinghorse.gif "Riding Horse [ridinghorse]"){kind=icon}
Similar threads
-
-
-
Street, canyon budget coilovers? Godspeed, biltien b14?
- Started by Bpjr07
- Replies: 10
-
-
Best budget coilovers for low?
- Started by Jake_tha_ripper
- Replies: 21
-
Warranty/budget conscious sound improvement suggestions?- Started by FiSTY
- Replies: 2
-
REVIEW: budget LEDs low beam and reverse lights- Started by jeff
- Replies: 63
-
-
"Budget+Cargo Space" Complete Audio Upgrade Journey- Started by HBEcoBeaST
- Replies: 7
-
Budget Coilovers or Lowering Springs: Help me decide!- Started by Zissou
- Replies: 21
