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Broke something...its not pretty...
- Thread starter boombots
- Start date
I'm not terribly familiar with the clutch setup on these yet. Is it possible the gear whine is actually a failing throwout bearing? I haven't done a lot of research on the "gear whine" complaints, but that'd be my first thought.
After that I'd say an internal bearing is bad. draining the trans fluid, you could inspect for metal content in the fluid. If it's actually gear or syncro related you'd get a lot of glitter floating in the fluid. Type of metal would tell a story too. If it's aluminum, then likely something in there is contacting the case walls; brass from syncros/bushings, and steel from gear teeth or shaft.
The shift tower could be at fault? If the tower doesn't relax it's grip on the selector hub after you change gears, it could be holding excessive pressure against the hub and syncro. that kind of contact can result in syncro damage. That's why you read in manuals not to rest your hand on the shifter when driving.
All just spitballing here, since I haven't had one apart, nor have I done a lot of research on the issue or units.
After that I'd say an internal bearing is bad. draining the trans fluid, you could inspect for metal content in the fluid. If it's actually gear or syncro related you'd get a lot of glitter floating in the fluid. Type of metal would tell a story too. If it's aluminum, then likely something in there is contacting the case walls; brass from syncros/bushings, and steel from gear teeth or shaft.
The shift tower could be at fault? If the tower doesn't relax it's grip on the selector hub after you change gears, it could be holding excessive pressure against the hub and syncro. that kind of contact can result in syncro damage. That's why you read in manuals not to rest your hand on the shifter when driving.
All just spitballing here, since I haven't had one apart, nor have I done a lot of research on the issue or units.
When SS broke his he told me what he did to fix it, I went and bought a bolt at my local Ace Hardware, swapped it out, cheap insurance, done!
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I have asked others to make a drivers side transaxle mount sleeve but nobody has yet so I might do it if somebody will bring me a stock car to mold if off of which is a very simple process. I built a lighter weight cover for the stock mount that takes out the slack, it would only work for those with a rear battery, for others just a sleeve would do the job. I cannot use my mount as modded it, I need a totally stock one to made the mold from.
There are approx .25" on the top and .125" gaps between the hard rubber on the big billet aluminum section bolted to the transaxle and the cover over it which keeps it in place and is the lower battery mount bracket.
Filling the gab with a simple sleeve will take out the slop and not cause undue vibration, etc, I did not notice any at all on my setup.
I made mine before I even had an RMM(the real name is rear engine mount since we have engines and not motors by the way) and never had axle hop, no more added noise, etc....
Rick
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I have asked others to make a drivers side transaxle mount sleeve but nobody has yet so I might do it if somebody will bring me a stock car to mold if off of which is a very simple process. I built a lighter weight cover for the stock mount that takes out the slack, it would only work for those with a rear battery, for others just a sleeve would do the job. I cannot use my mount as modded it, I need a totally stock one to made the mold from.
There are approx .25" on the top and .125" gaps between the hard rubber on the big billet aluminum section bolted to the transaxle and the cover over it which keeps it in place and is the lower battery mount bracket.
Filling the gab with a simple sleeve will take out the slop and not cause undue vibration, etc, I did not notice any at all on my setup.
I made mine before I even had an RMM(the real name is rear engine mount since we have engines and not motors by the way) and never had axle hop, no more added noise, etc....
Rick
Thanks, just curious...I've been using AMSOIL MTG 75w-90 for the last 10k miles with no issues what so ever. it shifts great with the stuff. I'm getting ready to drain that fill though and filter it at the same time. I may also send a sample off to see if it is causing any abnormal wear. I'm looking to try Motul since everyone is raving about it, lol. I can compare the two this way.
Guys, there is no such thing as a grade 8 metric bolt. Metric bolts have a class associated with them which consists of two numbers separated by a period. The first number is a function (100 x the number) of the ultimate tensile strength (newtons per square mm). 1 N/mm2 = 145.038 psi. The second number is 10 times the nominal ratio of the yield strength to the tensile strength. For example a Class 8.8 bolt has a tensile strength of 800 N/mm2, which is about 116,000 psi and a yield strength of 640 N/mm2, or 92,820 psi.
Grade 8 SAE (150,000 psi tensile strength) is equivalent to a Metric class 10.9. A metric class 8.8 bolt is equivalent to a SAE Grade 5 bolt.
So you should be looking for a Metric class 10.9 fastener, preferably with a rolled thread. Most hardware stores would not carry a bolt of this strength. I would be looking for a shouldered bolt.
Grades and classes only have to do with the strength of a bolt. Hardness can be used to measure strength, but if you change the alloy, hardness can drop, and the bolt can still be a higher strength.
Secondly, if I could take a look at the fracture faces of the broken motor mount bolts, I can tell you if the failure was due to overload or fatigue, or due to a defect in the bolt. Please photograph the fractured bolt head so I xan look at it. There are telltale signs for specific types of failures. If you are going to purchase an aftermarket bolt, you should know the reason why you are replacing the OEM bolt. This will guide your purchase.
Grade 8 SAE (150,000 psi tensile strength) is equivalent to a Metric class 10.9. A metric class 8.8 bolt is equivalent to a SAE Grade 5 bolt.
So you should be looking for a Metric class 10.9 fastener, preferably with a rolled thread. Most hardware stores would not carry a bolt of this strength. I would be looking for a shouldered bolt.
Grades and classes only have to do with the strength of a bolt. Hardness can be used to measure strength, but if you change the alloy, hardness can drop, and the bolt can still be a higher strength.
Secondly, if I could take a look at the fracture faces of the broken motor mount bolts, I can tell you if the failure was due to overload or fatigue, or due to a defect in the bolt. Please photograph the fractured bolt head so I xan look at it. There are telltale signs for specific types of failures. If you are going to purchase an aftermarket bolt, you should know the reason why you are replacing the OEM bolt. This will guide your purchase.
Most Excellent Info!!!
I did install a 10.9 bolt but not sure now where I got it, could of had one here, will take a look when I drop it down on the lift where I can see it.
Perhaps somebody can find the right type and grade of bolt so others know where to get one.
I am considering this just one more upgrade we need to do if we want to play, at least it will not cost much.
I did install a 10.9 bolt but not sure now where I got it, could of had one here, will take a look when I drop it down on the lift where I can see it.
Perhaps somebody can find the right type and grade of bolt so others know where to get one.
I am considering this just one more upgrade we need to do if we want to play, at least it will not cost much.
SS, from your description, there was most likely a defect in the bolt that caused it to overload. These types of bolts, when they contain forming defects, will not yield very much before they snap. If I have time, I'll pull mine, and take it to work to get it penetrant inspected.
I use boltdepot.com or belmetric.com for my fastener purchases.
I use boltdepot.com or belmetric.com for my fastener purchases.
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