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Let's talk agressive tire fitment on the Fiesta ST
- Thread starter MKVIIST
- Start date
lmao yeah I know. STILL a representation of a car with meaty tires. In addition you can get a similar look on a fiesta. maybe not a 10inch wide. but a 9 with some 235-245 with the right offset and right camber can probably be fit. Right now the point is mute as I wont be doing it as I dont care enough to buy wheels for my fiesta. But Im sure it can be done. It will take work with a measuring tape and light math to make it work but it can be done
So 2 questions, when did Wilwood come out with a brake kit and how do you like it. And i imagine that 215 is gonna be the widest you can go? I was looking at getting the H&R springs that have about a 1.2 inch drop in the front and 1 inch in the rear. hhhmmm I wonder is that .3 difference gonna keep me from having those same rubbing issues you had or the wheels will rub a bit on hard cornering.
The Wilwood kit has been out for about a half a year now I believe? I like it, it's a great value. I opted for the upgraded Spec37 rotors since I am tracking the car and it still was less than $900 to my door.
215 is currently the max I can go with those wheels but only because I am running more negative camber at the hub and that brings the wheel closer to the strut. If I was setting negative camber up top at the strut mounts it wouldn't matter.
215 is currently the max I can go with those wheels but only because I am running more negative camber at the hub and that brings the wheel closer to the strut. If I was setting negative camber up top at the strut mounts it wouldn't matter.
15x9, 225 RA1, perfect width, just the right stretch for maximum grip and feedback, I ran 9 sessions at MMP outer loop the last two days, a very fast course.
I tried Hoosier R6 tires I had on hand in 225 but they are a very wide, more like 245, tire and I could fit up front with pulling, rolling and proper camber but on the rears I would of had to cut the inner fender metal liners and moved the fender lips out, fill and weld and still add more negative camber than stock, which I still had to do to clear the 225 RA1 which is more like a normal 225 tire in real width.
The tires are 22.9" diameter before shaved so a bit less than that in height, my 205/45/17 Mich AS/3 street tires are about even with the front fender lips from a side view and the rears slightly above, looks great but these shorty tires make it look like lots of gap.
I now have -2.5 front and -1.5 rear camber and the car handles incredibly well.
I had to work on the rear fenders quite a bit to make them fit as well.
On the front I had to drill new holes in the top of the strut towers to add the camber as the wheels were to close to the struts so could not adjust them down low and still had to add a thin spacer behind the wheels as I was just barely rubbing the struts on some corners, all wheels, bearings, etc have some flex.
15x9, +35mm, 4x100, 13lbs, roll formed, Konig, $126 each, killer deal. There are other 15x9's as well but these had the most room to fit the brakes and it was a tight fit, I will have to have a new set up custom caliper mounts made as the ones I have are still not quite right but would work on a 16" wheel just fine, I had to mod the mounting holes on the knuckles and make fillers to keep them in place. I will get new mounts made and install new knuckles, what I have on is well track proven but I like things perfect, not patched up to work.
They are not as stretched as the pics look, just perfect and well proven in racing to be the proper wheel and tire fitment.
The car sits about as low as possible and still have proper geometry, if you want a car to handle the best then you only go as low as the geometry allows, any lower and things get dramatically worse quickly. I have picked up 2 seconds or lost two seconds in less than a 60 second autocross runs purposely testing this, with just 1/4" height adjustment dipping below the proper height.
I am going to remeasure it all shortly as now have some miles on the suspension and pounded it over the curbs at the track, now fully settled I might have to raise it a tiny bit or may yet be able to lower it a bit more. The rear does not matter as long as low enough to balance the front to rear weight out a bit and mine could be a bit lower in back to bring more weight there but with the zero toe and -1.5 camber it handles about perfectly now as is. I will be testing my custom modded 5-way sway bar there with it lowered a bit more when I can get back to the track, I left it hanging on the shop wall and my coilover tools in a box below it....forgot to pack them up.
The only thing I rubbed was the inner liners a tiny bit, which I expected, I had already removed the lower bolt and ground off the mounting area on the fender to bumper mounts, Razor's recommendation. I thought I would rub the main horizontal area of the inner mount but left it alone and never touched it. I had the car up on two wheels pleanty of times and it felt like all four off a few times, I hope a pro photographer contacts me with some pics!
I tried Hoosier R6 tires I had on hand in 225 but they are a very wide, more like 245, tire and I could fit up front with pulling, rolling and proper camber but on the rears I would of had to cut the inner fender metal liners and moved the fender lips out, fill and weld and still add more negative camber than stock, which I still had to do to clear the 225 RA1 which is more like a normal 225 tire in real width.
The tires are 22.9" diameter before shaved so a bit less than that in height, my 205/45/17 Mich AS/3 street tires are about even with the front fender lips from a side view and the rears slightly above, looks great but these shorty tires make it look like lots of gap.
I now have -2.5 front and -1.5 rear camber and the car handles incredibly well.
I had to work on the rear fenders quite a bit to make them fit as well.
On the front I had to drill new holes in the top of the strut towers to add the camber as the wheels were to close to the struts so could not adjust them down low and still had to add a thin spacer behind the wheels as I was just barely rubbing the struts on some corners, all wheels, bearings, etc have some flex.
15x9, +35mm, 4x100, 13lbs, roll formed, Konig, $126 each, killer deal. There are other 15x9's as well but these had the most room to fit the brakes and it was a tight fit, I will have to have a new set up custom caliper mounts made as the ones I have are still not quite right but would work on a 16" wheel just fine, I had to mod the mounting holes on the knuckles and make fillers to keep them in place. I will get new mounts made and install new knuckles, what I have on is well track proven but I like things perfect, not patched up to work.
They are not as stretched as the pics look, just perfect and well proven in racing to be the proper wheel and tire fitment.
The car sits about as low as possible and still have proper geometry, if you want a car to handle the best then you only go as low as the geometry allows, any lower and things get dramatically worse quickly. I have picked up 2 seconds or lost two seconds in less than a 60 second autocross runs purposely testing this, with just 1/4" height adjustment dipping below the proper height.
I am going to remeasure it all shortly as now have some miles on the suspension and pounded it over the curbs at the track, now fully settled I might have to raise it a tiny bit or may yet be able to lower it a bit more. The rear does not matter as long as low enough to balance the front to rear weight out a bit and mine could be a bit lower in back to bring more weight there but with the zero toe and -1.5 camber it handles about perfectly now as is. I will be testing my custom modded 5-way sway bar there with it lowered a bit more when I can get back to the track, I left it hanging on the shop wall and my coilover tools in a box below it....forgot to pack them up.
The only thing I rubbed was the inner liners a tiny bit, which I expected, I had already removed the lower bolt and ground off the mounting area on the fender to bumper mounts, Razor's recommendation. I thought I would rub the main horizontal area of the inner mount but left it alone and never touched it. I had the car up on two wheels pleanty of times and it felt like all four off a few times, I hope a pro photographer contacts me with some pics!
15x9, 225 RA1, perfect width, just the right stretch for maximum grip and feedback, I ran 9 sessions at MMP outer loop the last two days, a very fast course.
I tried Hoosier R6 tires I had on hand in 225 but they are a very wide, more like 245, tire and I could fit up front with pulling, rolling and proper camber but on the rears I would of had to cut the inner fender metal liners and moved the fender lips out, fill and weld and still add more negative camber than stock, which I still had to do to clear the 225 RA1 which is more like a normal 225 tire in real width.
I now have -2.5 front and -1.5 rear camber and the car handles incredibly well.
I had to work on the rear fenders quite a bit to make them fit as well.
On the front I had to drill new holes in the top of the strut towers to add the camber as the wheels were to close to the struts so could not adjust them down low and still had to add a thin spacer behind the wheels as I was just barely rubbing the struts on some corners, all wheels, bearings, etc have some flex.
15x9, +35mm, 4x100, 13lbs, roll formed, Konig, $126 each, killer deal. There are other 15x9's as well but these had the most room to fit the brakes and it was a tight fit, I will have to have a new set up custom caliper mounts made as the ones I have are still not quite right but would work on a 16" wheel just fine, I had to mod the mounting holes on the knuckles and make fillers to keep them in place. I will get new mounts made and install new knuckles, what I have on is well track proven but I like things perfect, not patched up to work.
They are not as stretched as the pics look, just perfect and well proven in racing to be the proper wheel and tire fitment.
The car sits about as low as possible and still have proper geometry, if you want a car to handle the best then you only go as low as the geometry allows, any lower and things get dramatically worse quickly. I have picked up 2 seconds or lost two seconds in less than a 60 second autocross runs purposely testing this, with just 1/4" height adjustment dipping below the proper height.
I am going to remeasure it all shortly as now have some miles on the suspension and pounded it over the curbs at the track, now fully settled I might have to raise it a tiny bit or may yet be able to lower it a bit more. The rear does not matter as long as low enough to balance the front to rear weight out a bit and mine could be a bit lower in back to bring more weight there but with the zero toe and -1.5 camber it handles about perfectly now as is. I will be testing my custom modded 5-way sway bar there with it lowered a bit more when I can get back to the track, I left it hanging on the shop wall and my coilover tools in a box below it....forgot to pack them up.
The only thing I rubbed was the inner liners a tiny bit, which I expected, I had already removed the lower bolt and ground off the mounting area on the fender to bumper mounts, Razor's recommendation. I thought I would rub the main horizontal area of the inner mount but left it alone and never touched it. I had the car up on two wheels pleanty of times and it felt like all four off a few times, I hope a pro photographer contacts me with some pics!
I tried Hoosier R6 tires I had on hand in 225 but they are a very wide, more like 245, tire and I could fit up front with pulling, rolling and proper camber but on the rears I would of had to cut the inner fender metal liners and moved the fender lips out, fill and weld and still add more negative camber than stock, which I still had to do to clear the 225 RA1 which is more like a normal 225 tire in real width.
I now have -2.5 front and -1.5 rear camber and the car handles incredibly well.
I had to work on the rear fenders quite a bit to make them fit as well.
On the front I had to drill new holes in the top of the strut towers to add the camber as the wheels were to close to the struts so could not adjust them down low and still had to add a thin spacer behind the wheels as I was just barely rubbing the struts on some corners, all wheels, bearings, etc have some flex.
15x9, +35mm, 4x100, 13lbs, roll formed, Konig, $126 each, killer deal. There are other 15x9's as well but these had the most room to fit the brakes and it was a tight fit, I will have to have a new set up custom caliper mounts made as the ones I have are still not quite right but would work on a 16" wheel just fine, I had to mod the mounting holes on the knuckles and make fillers to keep them in place. I will get new mounts made and install new knuckles, what I have on is well track proven but I like things perfect, not patched up to work.
They are not as stretched as the pics look, just perfect and well proven in racing to be the proper wheel and tire fitment.
The car sits about as low as possible and still have proper geometry, if you want a car to handle the best then you only go as low as the geometry allows, any lower and things get dramatically worse quickly. I have picked up 2 seconds or lost two seconds in less than a 60 second autocross runs purposely testing this, with just 1/4" height adjustment dipping below the proper height.
I am going to remeasure it all shortly as now have some miles on the suspension and pounded it over the curbs at the track, now fully settled I might have to raise it a tiny bit or may yet be able to lower it a bit more. The rear does not matter as long as low enough to balance the front to rear weight out a bit and mine could be a bit lower in back to bring more weight there but with the zero toe and -1.5 camber it handles about perfectly now as is. I will be testing my custom modded 5-way sway bar there with it lowered a bit more when I can get back to the track, I left it hanging on the shop wall and my coilover tools in a box below it....forgot to pack them up.
The only thing I rubbed was the inner liners a tiny bit, which I expected, I had already removed the lower bolt and ground off the mounting area on the fender to bumper mounts, Razor's recommendation. I thought I would rub the main horizontal area of the inner mount but left it alone and never touched it. I had the car up on two wheels pleanty of times and it felt like all four off a few times, I hope a pro photographer contacts me with some pics!
I will unload the car later today and then can measure it, I might be raising or lowering the car a bit more, the rear for sure as it settled a bit taller than the fronts. I need a 4 post lift to really measure the geometry perfectly, hard to do on the ground and impossible on my 2 post lift but just thought of this, I will remove the front rotors and then can see the ball joints to get a more accurate measurement of the center of them.
I know I am pretty darn close to perfect but perfection, as much as possible, is what makes a car fast. I was able to out corner some well know sports cars that were not stock and were on DOT race tires, this does not happen with a car to low or overly tall either. I posted about the last two days in the racing forum
I know I am pretty darn close to perfect but perfection, as much as possible, is what makes a car fast. I was able to out corner some well know sports cars that were not stock and were on DOT race tires, this does not happen with a car to low or overly tall either. I posted about the last two days in the racing forum
With the coilovers I am now using I can get up to 6 degrees negative camber for track dates.
So I don't want to use a more aggressive wheel.
I have instead chosen to just to go with more aggressive tires.
I will be needing street tires soon and I have decided to just use my track tires on the street.
Toyo R888
On my next go round I will go up to a 215/40/17
Dave
So I don't want to use a more aggressive wheel.
I have instead chosen to just to go with more aggressive tires.
I will be needing street tires soon and I have decided to just use my track tires on the street.
Toyo R888
On my next go round I will go up to a 215/40/17
Dave
I dont see the kit listed on the wilwood site. the way im wanting to go is the H&R springs with the 17x7 TR FF10 from tirerack. Since I need to switch to winter tires here in a few weeks I was thinkin about goin up to a 215/45 since im still at stock height and put those on the stock wheels. then when spring comes around put the new wheels/springs on and find a good 215/45 to use for track/daily
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Br...R&year=2011&make=Ford&model=Fiesta&option=All
I bought my set from Todd @ TCE Performance. He was a joy to work with. He gives you the option to upgrade the parts. Like I said, I upgraded the rotors to Spec37 since I track the car. It was under $900 shipped to my door for the kit with SS lines and upgraded rotors and pads.
I bought my set from Todd @ TCE Performance. He was a joy to work with. He gives you the option to upgrade the parts. Like I said, I upgraded the rotors to Spec37 since I track the car. It was under $900 shipped to my door for the kit with SS lines and upgraded rotors and pads.
I would not go wider than a 205 on a 7" wheel, just not enough sidewall support, autocross cars seem to get away with a bit wider tires on narrower rims only if they are forced to do so by the rules it seems.
There was a great test article in Grass Roots Motorsports not long ago and they were faster with narrower tires in wider wheels instead of the other way around.
I had a set of 205's mounted on the 9's originally and they work in the rear as race proven by somebody I know that has raced for decades, same wheels wider fronts than rears to balance the handling and it saves a bit of weight. I made other changes and willing to do whatever it takes to just run the same width wheels and tires all the way around as I cannot carry many spares, I have a ton of space but must put all the weight I can up forward where I do not have much room in the toyhauler storage bay.
There are tires specifically designed to be wider than the wheels, cantilever tires, I think they were a 245 on a 7" wide wheel, not sure they make them in a DOT tire though.
----------
I have driven the R888 on the street but on cars I mostly used to go to the track and back, they do not last very long if you have to commute far, etc...but sure fun
---------
Camber, I am running -2.5 for now and it is working great, you do not want to much camber as you lose out on braking and acceleration, less contact patch, all about the balance of lateral as well as forward and stopping grip.
----------
If you are going to track to track the car then by all means get the GT/spec 37 rotors, they last far longer, cool better, etc....for pads, BP-30 minimum.
There was a great test article in Grass Roots Motorsports not long ago and they were faster with narrower tires in wider wheels instead of the other way around.
I had a set of 205's mounted on the 9's originally and they work in the rear as race proven by somebody I know that has raced for decades, same wheels wider fronts than rears to balance the handling and it saves a bit of weight. I made other changes and willing to do whatever it takes to just run the same width wheels and tires all the way around as I cannot carry many spares, I have a ton of space but must put all the weight I can up forward where I do not have much room in the toyhauler storage bay.
There are tires specifically designed to be wider than the wheels, cantilever tires, I think they were a 245 on a 7" wide wheel, not sure they make them in a DOT tire though.
----------
I have driven the R888 on the street but on cars I mostly used to go to the track and back, they do not last very long if you have to commute far, etc...but sure fun
---------
Camber, I am running -2.5 for now and it is working great, you do not want to much camber as you lose out on braking and acceleration, less contact patch, all about the balance of lateral as well as forward and stopping grip.
----------
If you are going to track to track the car then by all means get the GT/spec 37 rotors, they last far longer, cool better, etc....for pads, BP-30 minimum.
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