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Woods247 BrokeFiST Build

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Woods247

Woods247

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@cidsamuth what wheel/tire size combo are you using? I shredded another 660 so I’m done with ‘em.
 


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@cidsamuth what wheel/tire size combo are you using? I shredded another 660 so I’m done with ‘em.
I run Hoosier R7s, and they are great. Once you go to them, you’ll never go back. When I use regular tires now, it feels like being on ice.

As for size, I just had to step up to 17” to fit bigger brakes. Right now, I’m using 225/40/17.

When I was on 15”, I ran the same overall diameter and width, 225/50/15.
 


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Woods247

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I run Hoosier R7s, and they are great. Once you go to them, you’ll never go back. When I use regular tires now, it feels like being on ice.

As for size, I just had to step up to 17” to fit bigger brakes. Right now, I’m using 225/40/17.

When I was on 15”, I ran the same overall diameter and width, 225/50/15.
Which wheel? Are you 4x100?
 


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Which wheel? Are you 4x100?
No, still on 4x108.

As for which wheel, I ended up with FOCAL F20s. They are heavier than I wanted (22lbs), but the spokes clear my oversized calipers. I tried Konig Hypergrams, which had lots backspacing and offset, but the spoke shape had them within 1.5mm of the caliper. Was afraid flex would have me rubbing.
 


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Woods247

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No, still on 4x108.

As for which wheel, I ended up with FOCAL F20s. They are heavier than I wanted (22lbs), but the spokes clear my oversized calipers. I tried Konig Hypergrams, which had lots backspacing and offset, but the spoke shape had them within 1.5mm of the caliper. Was afraid flex would have me rubbing.
I’m working on getting Ultragrams drilled in 4x108. They should give us good clearance and I think they only weigh 17lbs. Let me know if you’re interested. The more interest we have the more likely I can get them to do it.
 


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I’m working on getting Ultragrams drilled in 4x108. They should give us good clearance and I think they only weigh 17lbs. Let me know if you’re interested. The more interest we have the more likely I can get them to do it.
I’m interested in getting lighter wheels, for sure. The problem is that I still won’t know if they clear my caliper, which is huge. It all comes down to spoke shape, and I hate the idea of buying rims again, only to find they won’t fit.
 


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EDIT: Woods, the more I think about it, I’m definitely interested in trying …. But I have doubts. Cutting 5lbs of rotational weight off each corner is big. In a perfect world, I’d be permitted to buy just one and test fit, so that I only have one to unload if it doesn’t clear. That’s how I ended up with the F20s … confirmed one cleared, then circled back and bought 3 more.

Let me know. If it works out, I’d end up turning the F20s into a rain setup with 200tw tires.
 


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Woods247

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I totally get it. Only a couple of wheels clear my brakes without spacers. I have so many spacers from 2mm to 12mm 😂
 


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I totally get it. Only a couple of wheels clear my brakes without spacers. I have so many spacers from 2mm to 12mm 😂
It's even more complicated for me . . . In order to fit the fat tires in the wheel wells, I have to use a large spacer. Right now, I have a 15mm spacer on the F20s, moving the offset from +42 to +27. Any further out, and I risk rubbing the fender flares. Any further in, and I rub the coilovers. The good news is that the spoke shape of the F20s means they clear the calipers by a mile with the 15mm spacers. In theory, the F20s clear the caliper only 5mm spacers but, again, that doesn't get me the overall tire clearance I need in consideration to the coilovers.

With the 17" Hypergrams I tried, I tried as much as a 20mm spacer, which moved the offset from +40 to +20. Even then, the spokes only cleared the caliper by 1.5mm . . . that's not enough. And, as mentioned above, I suspect +20 offset would have me rubbing the fender flares anyway. So, I had to eat the $152 shipping cost to return the rims.
 


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I run Hoosier R7s, and they are great. Once you go to them, you’ll never go back. When I use regular tires now, it feels like being on ice.

As for size, I just had to step up to 17” to fit bigger brakes. Right now, I’m using 225/40/17.

When I was on 15”, I ran the same overall diameter and width, 225/50/15.
Did you ever try SM7.5 on the 15"?
 


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Woods247

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Did you cord the inside of one of the inside tires?
Nah. Recently two of them split across the tread down to the cords with only 30min on them after heat cycling. I’ve had several of them do that.. Apparently it’s a common 660 problem.
 


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Woods247

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I have heard they will warranty the ones that split at the seam joint across the face of the tire.
Oh that’s good news! I will reach out to them tomorrow and see what my options are. Discount Tire told me to pound sand because they were used on track. Idiots… Tirerack apparently doesn’t care and will swap them without any BS so if I run them again I’ll buy from TR. I really like the tires and I’ve only had a few with this problem. They seem to be more reliable on lighter FWD cars.

On a side note, you should join me for a weekend at Road Atlanta August 19-20 if you have time. It’ll be hot and it might rain but c’mon! Camping is free and load-in should be the evening of the 18th so no need to leave home at 4AM. Text me if you wanna go. Our cars don’t call 911 at that track. 😂 Also, if you register for Int or Adv traffic won’t be bad. I probably won’t have much work that weekend either so I’ll drive all day both days.
 


Fusion Works

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I would love to come out. However, My SCCA region is having a TT/Regional Road Race at Barber and I am gonna hit that up. It will be just as hot and miserable at Barber, but I am supporting my local SCCA region.

Gonna make an off switch for that stupid module.

Yeah talk to Falken directly and be prepared to send them pics.
 


WannabeST

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I'm not sure how "valid" this information is. But I have a few friends who run RT660 like its a religion now and they use them on the street for a couple hundred miles before the track or they do light canyon drives to "break them in". I've seen the splitting issue and this is their work around but these are also gutted 90s hondas so results may vary lol.
 


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Woods247

Woods247

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I'm not sure how "valid" this information is. But I have a few friends who run RT660 like its a religion now and they use them on the street for a couple hundred miles before the track or they do light canyon drives to "break them in". I've seen the splitting issue and this is their work around but these are also gutted 90s hondas so results may vary lol.
They definitely have to be heat cycled correctly. I always do that otherwise they don’t last long at all.
 


Jabbit

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I have a set of rt660s that will go on my car this season. 215/45-16, paid for the heat cycling from Tire Rack. I'll keep an eye on the tread. Thanks for the heads up.
 


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