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I did with some helpful guidance from a friend. I measured many times before drilling. I also cut open the inside of the hatch to fit the plates for bracing. If I did it again I’d just build mounts like the Honda guys use and buy a wing from 9Lives Racing or someone like that. My end plates are garage made as well. Most of them come with small end plates and I wanted large for high speed slip angles.
@Woods, what's been the strongest track wheel you've found?
Asking since I've seen you run a bunch of different wheels, and I'm looking for a track-specific wheel to upgrade from 16x7 Sparco Terras that I've bent 2 of (no cracks, still hold air). Compomotive and Braid were a little out of budget but seemed bomb-proof. Thanks in advance!
Installed a new Pierce front tower brace today. I drilled out the top of suspension mounts so I could access the hardware a little easier so I figured I’d add a brace for peace of mind.
What exactly did you use to drill it out? I wanted to do the same so I could adjust the camber plate from the top but quickly realized that area is pretty thick. Do you have enough room to reach the bolts?
I did with some helpful guidance from a friend. I measured many times before drilling. I also cut open the inside of the hatch to fit the plates for bracing. If I did it again I’d just build mounts like the Honda guys use and buy a wing from 9Lives Racing or someone like that. My end plates are garage made as well. Most of them come with small end plates and I wanted large for high speed slip angles.
Apologies if I've asked before but can you take a picture of the inside hatch? Or did you put your interior panels back? I'm having a hard time mentally picturing how I mount/fasten in components to the inside hatch.
Apologies if I've asked before but can you take a picture of the inside hatch? Or did you put your interior panels back? I'm having a hard time mentally picturing how I mount/fasten in components to the inside hatch.
The panels have been reinstalled but there should be pics in the build page. Sorry it’s not more organized.. When you pop off the cover, you’ll see exactly what needs to be cut out for access. I remember cutting as little as possible after removing the rear wiper assembly.
What exactly did you use to drill it out? I wanted to do the same so I could adjust the camber plate from the top but quickly realized that area is pretty thick. Do you have enough room to reach the bolts?
I used two hole saws, one to cut and the other to guide. I originally started with 2.5” (because I wanted to retain part of the structural lip) but I need to increase it to 2.75” because I still can’t access the bolts for camber adjustment without dropping the strut a little. It’s MUCH easier now but since I have the brace I think we can go wider with the hole.
I don’t recall the size of the smaller hole saw but it was the same as the OEM hole (no pilot bit). I mounted it inside the larger hole saw to use as a centering guide. Worked perfectly and I didn’t have to completely remove the coil overs. I just dropped them down as far as possible and drilled very slowly.
One was definitely a curb at Buttonwillow, and the 2nd I have no idea - I hit no curbs at Sonoma Raceway, had no issues on the way home and when I swapped on my street wheels, found one bent.
I love this wheel/tire combo. It’s too bad Falken stopped making the RT615K+ in 235/40/17. I’m either going to move these over to the Rotas and make them my track set or keep them on the Compos for street. There are so few choices in 235/40/17 but I’ve narrowed it down to Maxxis RC1, Nankang AR1 or another set of Falken RT660. Can’t go wrong with any of those options.
I love this wheel/tire combo. It’s too bad Falken stopped making the RT615K+ in 235/40/17. I’m either going to move these over to the Rotas and make them my track set or keep them on the Compos for street. There are so few choices in 235/40/17 but I’ve narrowed it down to Maxxis RC1, Nankang AR1 or another set of Falken RT660. Can’t go wrong with any of those options.
I love this wheel/tire combo. It’s too bad Falken stopped making the RT615K+ in 235/40/17. I’m either going to move these over to the Rotas and make them my track set or keep them on the Compos for street. There are so few choices in 235/40/17 but I’ve narrowed it down to Maxxis RC1, Nankang AR1 or another set of Falken RT660. Can’t go wrong with any of those options. View attachment 47686
The AR1s (and all of Nankang's track/autocross offerings) tend to run substantially wider tread widths than the Falkens do, so keep that in mind.
The Toyo RA1s seem to be the only 100 tread wear and above donuts which match the AR1's tread width, and these are probably a decent 'rain tire' at full molded tread depth, given their tread pattern.
The AR1s (and all of Nankang's track/autocross offerings) tend to run substantially wider tread widths than the Falkens do, so keep that in mind.
The Toyo RA1s seem to be the only 100 tread wear and above donuts which match the AR1's tread width, and these are probably a decent 'rain tire' at full molded tread depth, given their tread pattern.
Skip the RC1s. Had them for a year and did a couple of events on them. They don't like the heat and they constantly seem to have a flat spot if the tire sits for any time. Sidewalls are a bit soft as well.
Just installed RT660s and am very happy with them. They did well at NCM when it was 40 below zero a couple of weeks ago. Will be running them again at Nashville Motorspeedway TNIA next month.
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