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Woods247 BrokeFiST Build

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Woods247

Woods247

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Did you install your wing or did someone else do it? I'm planning to install mine in a couple weeks.
I did with some helpful guidance from a friend. I measured many times before drilling. I also cut open the inside of the hatch to fit the plates for bracing. If I did it again I’d just build mounts like the Honda guys use and buy a wing from 9Lives Racing or someone like that. My end plates are garage made as well. Most of them come with small end plates and I wanted large for high speed slip angles.
 


M-Sport fan

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@Woods, what's been the strongest track wheel you've found?

Asking since I've seen you run a bunch of different wheels, and I'm looking for a track-specific wheel to upgrade from 16x7 Sparco Terras that I've bent 2 of (no cracks, still hold air). Compomotive and Braid were a little out of budget but seemed bomb-proof. Thanks in advance!
Did you bend the Terras on track curbing, or out on bombed-out streets?
 


Erick_V

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Installed a new Pierce front tower brace today. I drilled out the top of suspension mounts so I could access the hardware a little easier so I figured I’d add a brace for peace of mind.

View attachment 47297
What exactly did you use to drill it out? I wanted to do the same so I could adjust the camber plate from the top but quickly realized that area is pretty thick. Do you have enough room to reach the bolts?
 


Jabbit

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I did with some helpful guidance from a friend. I measured many times before drilling. I also cut open the inside of the hatch to fit the plates for bracing. If I did it again I’d just build mounts like the Honda guys use and buy a wing from 9Lives Racing or someone like that. My end plates are garage made as well. Most of them come with small end plates and I wanted large for high speed slip angles.
Apologies if I've asked before but can you take a picture of the inside hatch? Or did you put your interior panels back? I'm having a hard time mentally picturing how I mount/fasten in components to the inside hatch.
 


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Woods247

Woods247

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Apologies if I've asked before but can you take a picture of the inside hatch? Or did you put your interior panels back? I'm having a hard time mentally picturing how I mount/fasten in components to the inside hatch.
The panels have been reinstalled but there should be pics in the build page. Sorry it’s not more organized.. When you pop off the cover, you’ll see exactly what needs to be cut out for access. I remember cutting as little as possible after removing the rear wiper assembly.

Edit: found old pics


E98266BA-FFE9-4152-8FAF-547E08B185BD.jpeg 34C78CE3-76AE-438A-A540-B281EC4DF149.jpeg A3232C70-EDD7-4D7C-B707-D60C80EEC15A.jpeg CED7501B-C765-4E92-8496-0D6F4813EDD4.jpeg
 


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Woods247

Woods247

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What exactly did you use to drill it out? I wanted to do the same so I could adjust the camber plate from the top but quickly realized that area is pretty thick. Do you have enough room to reach the bolts?
I used two hole saws, one to cut and the other to guide. I originally started with 2.5” (because I wanted to retain part of the structural lip) but I need to increase it to 2.75” because I still can’t access the bolts for camber adjustment without dropping the strut a little. It’s MUCH easier now but since I have the brace I think we can go wider with the hole.

I don’t recall the size of the smaller hole saw but it was the same as the OEM hole (no pilot bit). I mounted it inside the larger hole saw to use as a centering guide. Worked perfectly and I didn’t have to completely remove the coil overs. I just dropped them down as far as possible and drilled very slowly.
AA719ADB-5D83-4D3E-8FA1-6A855D4B106B.jpeg
 


Lays

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That’s why I don’t own them. I need at least 7.5” wide but preferably 8”. I should’ve changed to 4x100 or a 5 bolt pattern on day one.
I agree, I just asked a wheel seller if he could redrill any of his Volk/ SSR options to 4x108, I’ll see how that goes lol.

I want a 16x8 +35ish Advan, te37 or something like that.
 


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Woods247

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I love this wheel/tire combo. It’s too bad Falken stopped making the RT615K+ in 235/40/17. I’m either going to move these over to the Rotas and make them my track set or keep them on the Compos for street. There are so few choices in 235/40/17 but I’ve narrowed it down to Maxxis RC1, Nankang AR1 or another set of Falken RT660. Can’t go wrong with any of those options.
52FC6451-2E01-4187-950D-93F1F7DA6D87.jpeg
 


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I love this wheel/tire combo. It’s too bad Falken stopped making the RT615K+ in 235/40/17. I’m either going to move these over to the Rotas and make them my track set or keep them on the Compos for street. There are so few choices in 235/40/17 but I’ve narrowed it down to Maxxis RC1, Nankang AR1 or another set of Falken RT660. Can’t go wrong with any of those options.

Have you tried any 15/16s? Cost of tires & wheels seems to be a lot cheaper, is the performance any difference, or is it just personal preference?
 


M-Sport fan

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I love this wheel/tire combo. It’s too bad Falken stopped making the RT615K+ in 235/40/17. I’m either going to move these over to the Rotas and make them my track set or keep them on the Compos for street. There are so few choices in 235/40/17 but I’ve narrowed it down to Maxxis RC1, Nankang AR1 or another set of Falken RT660. Can’t go wrong with any of those options.
View attachment 47686
The AR1s (and all of Nankang's track/autocross offerings) tend to run substantially wider tread widths than the Falkens do, so keep that in mind.

The Toyo RA1s seem to be the only 100 tread wear and above donuts which match the AR1's tread width, and these are probably a decent 'rain tire' at full molded tread depth, given their tread pattern.
 


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Woods247

Woods247

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Thread Starter #1,078
The AR1s (and all of Nankang's track/autocross offerings) tend to run substantially wider tread widths than the Falkens do, so keep that in mind.

The Toyo RA1s seem to be the only 100 tread wear and above donuts which match the AR1's tread width, and these are probably a decent 'rain tire' at full molded tread depth, given their tread pattern.
I emailed Phil’s and asked them to measure one. They’re all so different these days and the spec sheets can’t be trusted lol.
 


Fusion Works

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Skip the RC1s. Had them for a year and did a couple of events on them. They don't like the heat and they constantly seem to have a flat spot if the tire sits for any time. Sidewalls are a bit soft as well.

Just installed RT660s and am very happy with them. They did well at NCM when it was 40 below zero a couple of weeks ago. Will be running them again at Nashville Motorspeedway TNIA next month.
 


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