Streetable sub-$1k coilovers?

[M-Sport fan]

^^^Do they use salt, or sand in The Rocky Mountain State in winter?

 

[Snark_1]

A mix of both, Colorado uses magnesium chloride and some sand, which isn't as corrosive as rock salt but the sand is hell on your windshield after the Semis kick it up.

 

[felopr]

I guess I will chime in
If your car is daily driven and rarely go to autocross or time attacks, stick with spring and struts
Is not that I don't like coilovers, correctly adjusted, they would feel better than any spring/strut combination but think about it
If a car is street driven, especially daily driven, what would happen when 1 of your shocks goes bad? Is not like you can just buy one coilover strut from anyplace.
Most of the cheap coilovers out there can't even buy a replacement or RMA and the good reputable ones like Blistein, takes a lengthy process to RMA and you have to send your shocks which means your car is on jack stands for quite a lot of time
I doubt third parties sellers (like ron) or suppliers would sell you 1 coilover strut if one of your went bad

 

[Dpro]

I guess I will chime in
If your car is daily driven and rarely go to autocross or time attacks, stick with spring and struts
Is not that I don't like coilovers, correctly adjusted, they would feel better than any spring/strut combination but think about it
If a car is street driven, especially daily driven, what would happen when 1 of your shocks goes bad? Is not like you can just buy one coilover strut from anyplace.
Most of the cheap coilovers out there can't even buy a replacement or RMA and the good reputable ones like Blistein, takes a lengthy process to RMA and you have to send your shocks which means your car is on jack stands for quite a lot of time
I doubt third parties sellers (like ron) or suppliers would sell you 1 coilover strut if one of your went bad

I will say this since the spring shock zealots have taken this who convo far afield from the OP’s original question which is the Title of thread.
”Streetable coilovers sub- 1k” Not shocks and springs. So basically any post about springs and shocks is technically off topic.

You‘re more interested in pushing what you think is right rather than answering his question. Thats called poor forum contribution and ya I am calling you out on it.

Oh and to your point I have run coliovers on many cars on the street and unless your in some kind of accident that damages it its just as reliable as ordinary shocks. They like shocks are not prone to catastrophic failure that will leave a person stranded unless accident. At that point you will have bigger fish to fry . I will also say getting replacements for a coilover is just like getting replacements for a shock. They do not magically become unobtainable. You replace them just like you replace a shock its no big deal. Your argument does not hold water. As any performance shock aka Bilstein or Koni is just like getting a coilover replacement. No difference whatsoover. Most coilover manufacturers stock warranty replacements or if out of warranty replacements.

 

[felopr]

I will say this since the spring shock zealots have taken this who convo far afield from the OP’s original question which is the Title of thread.
”Streetable coilovers sub- 1k” Not shocks and springs. So basically any post about springs and shocks is technically off topic.

You‘re more interested in pushing what you think is right rather than answering his question. Thats called poor forum contribution and ya I am calling you out on it.

Oh and to your point I have run coliovers on many cars on the street and unless your in some kind of accident that damages it its just as reliable as ordinary shocks. They like shocks are not prone to catastrophic failure that will leave a person stranded unless accident. At that point you will have bigger fish to fry . I will also say getting replacements for a coilover is just like getting replacements for a shock. They do not magically become unobtainable. You replace them just like you replace a shock its no big deal. Your argument does not hold water. As any performance shock aka Bilstein or Koni is just like getting a coilover replacement. No difference whatsoover. Most coilover manufacturers stock warranty replacements or if out of warranty replacements.

Someome got a bone to pick or wake up from the wrong side of the bed... 🤷🏽‍♂️
Sure i will give you that i really didnt answer his title question but what i said was just my opinion, like any forum member that post his/her opinion on the website, is by no means what you call " pushing what i think" because at the end of day, the op can do whatever he/she wants.
Now you on the other hand, you sound more like pushing his views more than my post will be.
That's what forums are for, people post stuff and people post their opinions and one has the option to agree or disagree but trying to flame someone because your views dont line up to your is uncall for

 

[Dpro]

Someome got a bone to pick or wake up from the wrong side of the bed... 🤷🏽‍♂️
Sure i will give you that i really didnt answer his title question but what i said was just my opinion, like any forum member that post his/her opinion on the website, is by no means what you call " pushing what i think" because at the end of day, the op can do whatever he/she wants.
Now you on the other hand, you sound more like pushing his views more than my post will be.
That's what forums are for, people post stuff and people post their opinions and one has the option to agree or disagree but trying to flame someone because your views dont line up to your is uncall for

no not really. More like just trying to keep the thread on topic. Did not wake up on the wrong side of the bed. Though my post seemed to affect you. I am also not pushing my view I was answering the OP‘s questions. Also what I wrote was not a flame it was just a call out. Those are two different things.
Forums are for discussions sure but when a person asks a specific question you do not answer with something that is not what they asked. That is called having no netiquette.

It seems real common to not give the right answer these days to push ones opinion. It’s funny you should think me giving an answer that is on point to the OP’s question to be pushing my opinion.
I am about giving out correct information on subject and trying to stay on topic. I am not perfect and I have gone off topic in the past and admitted rather than trying to defend being off topic. Perhaps you could learn from that.

 

[LiLfieSTa]

I'm probably only one of the few, but Ive been dailying my Megan EZ 2 for a little over 40k miles so far and its held up on canyons and potholes, and it still feels like a fresh drive out my lot every day.
I originally was going to go with the BCs but my shop recommended the (new at the time) Megans because they're essentially made from the same people and had the same functions/adjustability

Now I can't chime in my comparisons because these are basically the first set of coils ive ever owned, but over stock i was pretty surprised on how comfortable it was and definitely a blast in corners. The dampening adjustments really comes in clutch!
Not sure what else you wanted to know, but ill try to help!

 

[GregF]

Has anyone run the adjustable mountune set up?

https://www.mountuneusa.com/Clubsport-Mrxsuspension-Upgrade-Fiesta-St-p/2364-csu-ba.htm

 

[Lays]

MeisterR has fantastic support, and has replacements for sale for struts / bodies etc on their site.

Their support has helped me multiple times with getting different springs for drag racing, as well as stiffer rates after I upgraded my turbo + did some other mods.

Even with 7k front 5k rear, it rides much better than stock IMO, and I have fairly aggressive damping settings as well, like 12 out from full stiff.

 

[Dpro]

MeisterR has fantastic support, and has replacements for sale for struts / bodies etc on their site.

Their support has helped me multiple times with getting different springs for drag racing, as well as stiffer rates after I upgraded my turbo + did some other mods.

Even with 7k front 5k rear, it rides much better than stock IMO, and I have fairly aggressive damping settings as well, like 12 out from full stiff.

heh I run 7 out front and 10 out rear from full stiff on my Meister’s at first it felt a little firm but now it feels just fine. Guess I got used to it. lol Works great in the canyons.

That Clubsport setup from Mountune would be cool if it was like $700 tops. At the price they have it for its totally not worth it. You can get MeisterR’s for $995.

 

[Pablo Pistoffo]

Has anyone run the adjustable mountune set up?

https://www.mountuneusa.com/Clubsport-Mrxsuspension-Upgrade-Fiesta-St-p/2364-csu-ba.htm

That's just Mountune springs and Konis- there isn't any height adjustment. Would probably be a good alternative if you didn't want to mess with a 'true' coilover.

 

[Lays]

heh I run 7 out front and 10 out rear from full stiff on my Meister’s at first it felt a little firm but now it feels just fine. Guess I got used to it. lol Works great in the canyons.

That Clubsport setup from Mountune would be cool if it was like $700 tops. At the price they have it for its totally not worth it. You can get MeisterR’s for $995.

Looking forward to testing today, bought a set of 225/50/15 drag radials, and have 10k rear springs to try out with my new 7k fronts. Last time I went I only had 5k front with the 10k rear, and it felt like the front could benefit being a little stiffer. Should fight weight transfer, and help me run faster. Still waiting for my damn flywheel on backorder from Tasca, I wish it'd show up so I could put my spec stage 3+ in and run 11's already. Lol

MeisterR has been extremely helpful, I sent them an email a while back asking what type of rate I should run in the rear, and he suggested 10-12k but didn't have 12s in stock. So he sent me 10k rears that were slightly taller, to add a little rake and help with keeping more weight on the front tires. He said if I needed to swap em for stiffer he'd make it happen as well. Extremely helpful support IMO.

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^I am guessing that you run full stiff rebound on the front and rear dampers (or how would you set them with the 'all in one', not separate compression and rebound damper adjustments of the Meisters )?

I had Koni Sport double-adjustables on my '00 Z28, and when I was going for a time, I always set them to full soft rebound front, full hard rebound, and full soft compression rear.

 

[Lays]

^^^I am guessing that you run full stiff rebound on the front and rear dampers (or how would you set them with the 'all in one', not separate compression and rebound damper adjustments of the Meisters )?

I usually max the rear and close to max up front yeah. Hopefully I don't break anything on radials. Last time I went I was on bias ply slicks, so the sidewall wrinkles and absorbs the hit. Radials don't wrinkle really, and they don't absorb that shock from the hit. I'll try and get some videos tonight if I can!

 

[GregF]

That's just Mountune springs and Konis- there isn't any height adjustment. Would probably be a good alternative if you didn't want to mess with a 'true' coilover.

'true' coilover meaning it has height adjustability?

Given that I'm running 205/50/16s and want a setup on the softer side, I'm guessing I should be looking for something with adjustable height?

Sorry for such basic questions, new to setting up suspension and appreciate the insight.

 

[Pablo Pistoffo]

'true' coilover meaning it has height adjustability?

Given that I'm running 205/50/16s and want a setup on the softer side, I'm guessing I should be looking for something with adjustable height?

Sorry for such basic questions, new to setting up suspension and appreciate the insight.

Adjustable height isn't really necessary unless you want to eke out every last bit of lowering, or to corner balance the car for competition (I'm still waiting for the only shop around here with corner scales to be available). I think going with a known good spring and shock/strut combo (I liked my Swift/Bilstein setup) should take care of most non-competition needs, to be honest. Coils require more fiddling and adjusting, and tend to cost more than a comparable spring and shock setup. You can probably find pictures of how different springs look, if aesthetics are your main concern.

I think it would be better to go with great springs and shocks rather than cheap coils. You'll have a better ride and handling.

 

[GregF]

Adjustable height isn't really necessary unless you want to eke out every last bit of lowering, or to corner balance the car for competition (I'm still waiting for the only shop around here with corner scales to be available). I think going with a known good spring and shock/strut combo (I liked my Swift/Bilstein setup) should take care of most non-competition needs, to be honest. Coils require more fiddling and adjusting, and tend to cost more than a comparable spring and shock setup. You can probably find pictures of how different springs look, if aesthetics are your main concern.

I think it would be better to go with great springs and shocks rather than cheap coils. You'll have a better ride and handling.

Thanks- just looking to fix the damping really, that sounds like a good way to go.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Adjustable height isn't really necessary unless you want to eke out every last bit of lowering, or to corner balance the car for competition (I'm still waiting for the only shop around here with corner scales to be available). I think going with a known good spring and shock/strut combo (I liked my Swift/Bilstein setup) should take care of most non-competition needs, to be honest. Coils require more fiddling and adjusting, and tend to cost more than a comparable spring and shock setup. You can probably find pictures of how different springs look, if aesthetics are your main concern.

I think it would be better to go with great springs and shocks rather than cheap coils. You'll have a better ride and handling.

Given that Greg wants to run a 24.1"/24.2" tall tire, the coil overs* could benefit him in being able to lower it just enough to not rub, whereas most of the spring/damper combos slam the car way too much for a tire that tall (save for possibly a Swift and Bilstein or Koni, or a factory spring and Bilstein or Koni setup).

*He would have to get the FA500s with the factory ride height capable option though (like haste, and some others on here did, and I might), as all of the others lower the car way too much for a tire that tall, even at their highest possible functional ride height.

 

[JoeNewmany1]

Indeed, there are many street coilovers on the market that cost less than $1,000. However, keep in mind that the price can vary depending on the specific make, model, and type of vehicle. BC Racing BR Series Coilovers - These coilovers have adjustable height, stiffness and compression. Cost starts at $995. Ksport Kontrol Pro Coilovers - These coilovers also have adjustable height and stiffness, as well as aluminum bodies. Cost starts at $900. Megan Racing EZ Street Coilovers - These coilovers are designed for everyday use and have adjustable stiffness. Cost starts at $749.Godspeed Mono-SS Coilovers - These coilovers also have adjustable height and stiffness, as well as aluminum housings. Cost starts at $630. But I'm not really interested anymore, I found a great way to make money on a very good online platform, thanks to which I started making good money https://jokaroomvip.com/casino1 jokaroom online casino is the best legal AU casino, best bonuses, instant withdrawal, best design. Now I am interested in more expensive cars.

 

[Dialcaliper]

Not to rain on anyone’s parade, but I recently stumbled across a good visual example of “you get what you pay for” and the kinds of shortcuts on quality control you get for cheap, low end coilovers. Obviously it’s a random single point example out of many units, but scroll down for the dyno plots of dampers after only 1-year of use on a Civic (supposedly originally built by BC specifically for a fairly reputable vendor)

https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=681657&page=2

I may be biased, but my opinion of cheap adjustable dampers is that the adjustment (if it even accomplishes what it says it does) is only useful insomuch as it can be used to marginally offset the mismatch, quick decline and wear of said dampers, and you’re basically paying for cheap ride height adjusters.

Until you get to the >$1000 range, you will simply not be getting the kind of product where someone actually puts them together with care and does dyno testing and matching as part of quality control. The time and labor for that is simply too expensive for that, even in countries where labor is dirt cheap.

You’re far better off with a better quality non-adjustable shock like a Bilstein that will give decent results, or proven to last like a Koni (which will reliably give you bad ride quality to go with decent performance)

There are just not a lot of good, cheap height adjustable options that don’t lower the FiST. If you don’t want to lower, stock or B6+stock springs are probably your best bet. Something like swift or mountune springs with poly pads to lift things up a little might be a decent option as well. B14’s are probably the closest affordable option that’s worth the money, but even then getting to stock ride height means compromises (the front dampers at least are >1” shorter in droop than the OEMs, so you lose some suspension travel). But they are sadly indefinitely backordered at this point.