Stock radiator is just awful.

[powermatt]

I checked a while back because reading this thread got me curious and our radiator did have a different part number than the radiator for a base Fiesta.

I'm not sure what they did. A buddy of mine has a Fiesta with the NA 1.6, and the radiator looks identical. I wonder if the 1.0 turbo has a different part number too?

 

[James1980]

You don't happen to know this part number by any chance do you? I'm going to be installing my radiator within the next week or so and want to be prepared as possible.

They're so cheap I'd just get one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-OEM-13-18-Fiesta-1-6L-L4-Radiator-Plug-C1BZ8C362A-/233501064715

 

[jmrtsus]

1st pic is ST radiator (C1BZ-8005-A)...2nd is SE (AE8Z-8005-B). I feel sure the core is the same but different top and bottom caps. Hence the claims they are the "same" I believe refers to cooling capacity.

BTW, ordered Mountune Tuesday PM, out for delivery today in TN. Really quick free shipping. I'm impressed!

 

[bombo107]

They're so cheap I'd just get one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-OEM-13-18-Fiesta-1-6L-L4-Radiator-Plug-C1BZ8C362A-/233501064715

Thanks mate, appreciate it!

 

[M-Sport fan]

You know why cause there is plenty of from air coming in because no one blocked off the lower portion with a fricken intercooler lol. How do you cut down cool airflow to a radiator put an obstruction that take the air and heats it up before passing it on lol.

^^^THIS is what I've been saying all along, and I still do not understand HOW, even with the very best/most heat dissipating radiator which will fit in the factory location, those with the humongous intercoolers (DHM, BA, Pro Alloy, Wagner, Pumaspeed, etc.) fully blocking them, do not overheat on a regular basis, in very high ambient temps.

 

[powermatt]

1st pic is ST radiator (C1BZ-8005-A)...2nd is SE (AE8Z-8005-B). I feel sure the core is the same but different top and bottom caps. Hence the claims they are the "same" I believe refers to cooling capacity.

BTW, ordered Mountune Tuesday PM, out for delivery today in TN. Really quick free shipping. I'm impressed!

Ah, would make sense the turbo would necessitate moving some plumbing around. Didn't think about that.

 

[Capri to ST]

Here's the part number for the radiator for the Fiesta with the 1.0 liter engine according to a parts site.
C1BZ-8005-B / Radiator

Here's the one for the 1.6 L non-turbo engine
AE8Z-8005-B / Radiator

Here again is the one for our 1.6 L turbo engine
C1BZ-8005-A / Radiator

 

[Dpro]

Here's the part number for the radiator for the Fiesta with the 1.0 liter engine according to a parts site.
C1BZ-8005-B / Radiator

Here's the one for the 1.6 L non-turbo engine
AE8Z-8005-B / Radiator

Here again is the one for our 1.6 L turbo engine
C1BZ-8005-A / Radiator

lol Tasca did a great job of making them harder to compare do too the photos being taken at different angles and sides.
Great there are different part numbers . I have seen a lot of parts but pretty much the same part but different part numbers depending on what car it came in. NIssan did this all over their product line. lol
Plus they would also supercede old part numbers with new ones over the years of manufacturing models.
So I have learned to not take different part numbers as shear gospel that its actually a different part at all.
In this case from looking back and forth at those pics what I see is end design changes. Which of course would make sense. The real test though is the size of the core. Next time I get a chance and go to the junk yard I will closely look at Stock Fiesta core and take mesurements to compare to my stock radiator which is in a closet.

I still stand by my assertion that the radiator i.e actual core is the same size as a stock Fiesta till someone comes up with actual proof as different part numbers tell us nothing but that there are different part numbers . lol

 

[jayrod1980]

^^^THIS is what I've been saying all along, and I still do not understand HOW, even with the very best/most heat dissipating radiator which will fit in the factory location, those with the humongous intercoolers (DHM, BA, Pro Alloy, Wagner, Pumaspeed, etc.) fully blocking them, do not overheat on a regular basis, in very high ambient temps.

DHM with crash bar and shaved grill never gets hot. I mean never. There’s more space too between the IC and the radiator with the DHM bar that the IC bolts to. I’ve been through multiple Vegas summers and the thing stays under 200F.

 

[New_Daily]

DHM with crash bar and shaved grill never gets hot. I mean never. There’s more space too between the IC and the radiator with the DHM bar that the IC bolts to. I’ve been through multiple Vegas summers and the thing stays under 200F.

Ive always liked the look of a (paint matched) DHM bar behind a shaved grille, and the extra air moving through. One thing I haven't been able to determine: can you use a stock mount style IC with the DHM bar? Or does it require a bravo alpha or whatever other IC?

 

[jayrod1980]

Ive always liked the look of a (paint matched) DHM bar behind a shaved grille, and the extra air moving through. One thing I haven't been able to determine: can you use a stock mount style IC with the DHM bar? Or does it require a bravo alpha or whatever other IC?

It’s been over 4 years now so I don’t even remember how the stock intercooler connects to be honest. The BA would not work without drilling into the DHM bar. It uses a bracket that uses two holes in the stock crash bar. The L bracket attaches to the bar by those holes with screws and nuts and then then to the IC using bottom of the L with more screws that go into the sort of pods sticking from the top of the IC.

The DHM bar has steel straps that hang diagonal from the tubular bar that bolt to brackets on the IC on the sides rather than mounting from the top. If you used the BA with it, you would have to rig something custom or something like a light bar bracket that allows it to wrap around the tube and screw into the top holes. I tried to figure out a custom way to hang an oil cooler from the crash bar but never really needed it because the IC and Mountune radiator kept the oil from ever going much past 220F.

Also, the bar and IC peeking through the Opened grill look awesome... for about 6 months. Then the bar gets so much dust and grit it looks like a dirty matte bar, and not in a good way. It’s very hard to remove the grill as well from the front without breaking tabs, so unless you want a saggy bumper from removing the whole thing a lot cleaning the bar, it won’t stay nice.

 

[New_Daily]

It’s been over 4 years now so I don’t even remember how the stock intercooler connects to be honest. The BA would not work without drilling into the DHM bar. It uses a bracket that uses two holes in the stock crash bar. The L bracket attaches to the bar by those holes with screws and nuts and then then to the IC using bottom of the L with more screws that go into the sort of pods sticking from the top of the IC.

The DHM bar has steel straps that hang diagonal from the tubular bar that bolt to brackets on the IC on the sides rather than mounting from the top. If you used the BA with it, you would have to rig something custom or something like a light bar bracket that allows it to wrap around the tube and screw into the top holes. I tried to figure out a custom way to hang an oil cooler from the crash bar but never really needed it because the IC and Mountune radiator kept the oil from ever going much past 220F.

Also, the bar and IC peeking through the Opened grill look awesome... for about 6 months. Then the bar gets so much dust and grit it looks like a dirty matte bar, and not in a good way. It’s very hard to remove the grill as well from the front without breaking tabs, so unless you want a saggy bumper from removing the whole thing a lot cleaning the bar, it won’t stay nice.

Well, I mean my question was based on me having a CPE IC and having no intention of getting something else, so it was, can I properly mount that IC and all the portions of the air dam pieces to a DHM bar, without getting all crazy custom?

And, damn, that is a really good point on the bar getting dirty. My FiST is a garage queen what with work from home covid, and the fact I have a Tacoma as well, so you got my number with that thing getting dirty. No way Id run a full grille delete and the work and saggy bumper consequences are no where near worth it to clean the bar all the time, as anal as I am about keeping my car clean.

 

[M-Sport fan]

DHM with crash bar and shaved grill never gets hot. I mean never. There’s more space too between the IC and the radiator with the DHM bar that the IC bolts to. I’ve been through multiple Vegas summers and the thing stays under 200F.

True, I was thinking more about the BA, which fits behind the factory crash beam with no air gaps, and still covers most of the radiator.

 

[jayrod1980]

True, I was thinking more about the BA, which fits behind the factory crash beam with no air gaps, and still covers most of the radiator.

Yes there’s no gap with the BA. There’s so little room between the crash bar and the rad support that it’s almost scrunched. There’s a bolt and plastic piece on the bottom where the bumper connects to the splash shield that you MUST remove before you install the intercooler. Otherwise it will scrape against the IC, bend some fins and makes it impossible to install.

 

[powermatt]

Finally got my Mountune radiator on yesterday, and gave it a shakedown cruise today. I covered most of the driving scenarios in this area, from carving back roads to stop and go city traffic to highway cruising, the latter two with the a/c on. It was showing 89 F ambient at the time, and it stayed between 185 F and 193 F on the coolant temp. That's probably the main thing I observed; the coolant temp is just a lot more stable. The stock radiator swings a lot more wildly, and spikes pretty fast on pulls. None of that was observed with the Mountune.

 

[Poofies]

I also installed mine yesterday and drove around town for two hours and idled quite a bit in triple digits with ac on hi and never went to 5 bars. (My ap doesn’t show up until tomorrow). So it fixed my problems as well.

 

[Poofies]

Wanted to add one more update. Even being extremely careful I still broke my brittle bleed screw when trying to remove it so I would really recommend having one on hand as the nearest in stock ford dealership was about a 3 hour round trip.
Anyways back to the performance of the mountune. I’ve been doing courier-like driving for the past week (100 miles a day in stop and go city traffic) and it’s been 100+ every day and I even leave it idling at some of my stops and the temps hold at 190-195. So I can give a full endorsement to the mountune radiator with the stock thermostat that came with my 18. The stock radiator was getting to 6/8 bars within 30 minutes of city driving with lesser (but still hi) exterior temps.