Woods247 BrokeFiST Build

[cidsamuth]

Definitely too soft, especially considering you’re not even lifting the inside rear tire off the ground in that photo.

What spring rate you using?

 

[Woods247]

Definitely too soft, especially considering you’re not even lifting the inside rear tire off the ground in that photo.

What spring rate you using?

Too soft. I think it’s 6/5 but don’t recall. They were originally build for shitty roads and my bad back. I’m changing to 10/8 Swift on 510s. Maybe… Still looking at damper options under $4k. 510s seem to accommodate up to 8k difference in rates without requiring a change internally so I’m leaning towards them. It’s likely my car was sliding in that photo though. It was in the 30s out.

 

[cidsamuth]

Too soft. I think it’s 6/5 but don’t recall. They were originally build for shitty roads and my bad back. I’m changing to 10/8 Swift on 510s. Maybe… Still looking at damper options under $4k. 510s seem to accommodate up to 8k difference in rates without requiring a change internally so I’m leaning towards them. It’s likely my car was sliding in that photo though. It was in the 30s out.

So, you’re running softer in the back? I went stiffer in the back to help the car turn ….

 

[Woods247]

So, you’re running softer in the back? I went stiffer in the back to help the car turn ….

Yeah. I’ve never had problems with my car turning or rotating with how the suspension is setup now. A few clicks or psi changes are all I need to do. I keep baseline settings in my notes for each track and adjust for conditions from there. The only reason I want to change the BC/Swift custom setup I bought from 2J Racing way back in 2015 is I’d like each corner to respond quicker. My rebound is too slow. They’ve been fantastic and flawless for many years though. When I tell people that drive (or ride in) my car what the suspension is they never believe me. Not sure why folks think that setup sucks.. I’ve had zero issues for six years. Back in 2015 I didn’t have much experience with the car to really know what worked best, so my buddy Joe suggested I go this route since I still spent a lot of time on the street. There weren’t many choices back then and I wasn’t sure if I’d keep the car very long anyways so I set my budget at $2k. They’ve been great. We’ll worth the cash. Now I have a pretty good idea of what would work better and it’s time to change. I just wish the fully adjustable stuff from MCS wasn’t so expensive. Working with them would be painless since they’re local but they cost almost as much as I paid for the car. And I don’t know if they’d offer that much more of an advantage over 510s, which could be upgraded to Pros pretty easily down the road.

 

[Jabbit]

The selfish part of me wants you to get 510s, since I've also been considering them for myself.

 

[Woods247]

The selfish part of me wants you to get 510s, since I've also been considering them for myself.

I don’t think they’re a bad option. What else is better at that price point?

 

[Jabbit]

I don’t think they’re a bad option. What else is better at that price point?

I don't know, they seem to be popular at that price. I wonder if they are truly different than all the other "common" coilovers or are they just hyped because they are made in the US. I'm in a new to me Fiesta so I'm going to run my ISC coils for at least a handful more events until I get more comfortable with the car. Just did Quaife LSD and 4.3:1 gears.

 

[Woods247]

I don't know, they seem to be popular at that price. I wonder if they are truly different than all the other "common" coilovers or are they just hyped because they are made in the US. I'm in a new to me Fiesta so I'm going to run my ISC coils for at least a handful more events until I get more comfortable with the car. Just did Quaife LSD and 4.3:1 gears.

Gearing is on my list. I wish I’d done it with the LSD long ago.

 

[cidsamuth]

Shooting from the hip, it would seem to be easier to change tire size than gearing for a near equal effect.

What does the 4.3:1 do for you?

 

[Woods247]

Shooting from the hip, it would seem to be easier to change tire size than gearing for a near equal effect.

What does the 4.3:1 do for you?

Tire size is my issue. I’m pretty happy with 235/40/17 but they’re taller. A gear change should give me better acceleration which will compliment the additional grip from the wider tire.

 

[the duke]

Yeah. I’ve never had problems with my car turning or rotating with how the suspension is setup now. A few clicks or psi changes are all I need to do. I keep baseline settings in my notes for each track and adjust for conditions from there. The only reason I want to change the BC/Swift custom setup I bought from 2J Racing way back in 2015 is I’d like each corner to respond quicker. My rebound is too slow. They’ve been fantastic and flawless for many years though. When I tell people that drive (or ride in) my car what the suspension is they never believe me. Not sure why folks think that setup sucks.. I’ve had zero issues for six years. Back in 2015 I didn’t have much experience with the car to really know what worked best, so my buddy Joe suggested I go this route since I still spent a lot of time on the street. There weren’t many choices back then and I wasn’t sure if I’d keep the car very long anyways so I set my budget at $2k. They’ve been great. We’ll worth the cash. Now I have a pretty good idea of what would work better and it’s time to change. I just wish the fully adjustable stuff from MCS wasn’t so expensive. Working with them would be painless since they’re local but they cost almost as much as I paid for the car. And I don’t know if they’d offer that much more of an advantage over 510s, which could be upgraded to Pros pretty easily down the road.

Agree. Playing with the rear pressures and changing pitch-in even stock works well to rotate the car. I can initiate a good amount of slip for the switch-backs at Pitt. Race pretty easily on OEM suspension. I find this car quite easy to swing around stock, I'm curious how much stiffer people would want the rear.

I also wonder what tires everyone is running.

 

[Woods247]

Agree. Playing with the rear pressures and changing pitch-in even stock works well to rotate the car. I can initiate a good amount of slip for the switch-backs at Pitt. Race pretty easily on OEM suspension. I find this car quite easy to swing around stock, I'm curious how much stiffer people would want the rear.

I also wonder what tires everyone is running.

I’m using the 235/40/17 RT660 now. It’s hard to beat even in 215/40/17. If I lift I can get it rotate as much or as little as I want. My car was definitely more twitchy when it was stock. I REALLY want a stock 2014 Molten Orange FiST for daily.

 

[the duke]

I’m using the 235/40/17 RT660 now. It’s hard to beat even in 215/40/17. If I lift I can get it rotate as much or as little as I want. My car was definitely more twitchy when it was stock. I REALLY want a stock 2014 Molten Orange FiST for daily.

I loved my old 615K+ but I can't justify the price for the RT660s. It's like double!

 

[Woods247]

I loved my old 615K+ but I can't justify the price for the RT660s. It's like double!

I love the 615k+ too. I’ve had tons of them and several sets of the RT660. They’re totally different tires. The 660 has a lot more grip but doesn’t last as long and falls off earlier. It also runs much wider then the 615. It’s worth the additional $$$ if cornering grip is a priority but for lapping the 615 is awesome. It’ll go all day and feel the exact same as it did on the out lap. They are awesome endurance tires. Not sure why they get so much hate.

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^Their (RT615Ks/615K+) narrow tread width in any given size is the only reason I did not like them, despite having a set of them in 275/40-17 on 17x9.5s on my old, long gone, LS1 Z28.

 

[Woods247]

^^^Their (RT615Ks/615K+) narrow tread width in any given size is the only reason I did not like them, despite having a set of them in 275/40-17 on 17x9.5s on my old, long gone, LS1 Z28.

They are so much narrower than every other tire in the same size. I have a set of 235 615K+ and 235 660 and there’s an inch difference in width. Crazy.

 

[the duke]

^^^Their (RT615Ks/615K+) narrow tread width in any given size is the only reason I did not like them, despite having a set of them in 275/40-17 on 17x9.5s on my old, long gone, LS1 Z28.

They are so much narrower than every other tire in the same size. I have a set of 235 615K+ and 235 660 and there’s an inch difference in width. Crazy.

Seriously, these things run narrow? They're already past my fenders with a 17x8 42ET. I think I'd rub if they were an inch wider.

 

[Woods247]

Seriously, these things run narrow? They're already past my fenders with a 17x8 42ET. I think I'd rub if they were an inch wider.

215/40/17 RT660 on 17x8 42et would be perfect fitment. I’ve run that size rt660 on 17x8 30et with no issues but I do have -3 front and -2.7 rear camber.

 

[M-Sport fan]

The Nankang AR-1s in an 215/40-17 size are a full inch wider in tread width than the 615K plus.

 

[Woods247]