Wiring Audiocontrol LC2i, rear speaker signal vs front speaker signal

[GAbOS]

That's the great thing about outboard DSP's. You can either try to flatten out the onboard DSP as much as you can or even apply a few tweaks to it once you get to that point. If you wanted to spend more cash, you could always throw another EQ at it before the amps. I've never been a big fan of devices that try to 'auto' flatten. I'ld much prefer to have a scope and skilled hands working the signal (which ain't me btw!).

 

[chicagoslick]

With JL's new TUN software you can just run a FiX and have tuning capability. I am still using basic programming in the TwK and this is essentially the same tuning available in the FiX. I have played around with the advanced settings in the TwK but I am still learning. The great thing about it is you can work online or offline. Downloading a program is very easy.

 

[LedRobster]

Ok, quick noob question here. Is there any advantage to disabling the factory DSP if you're not running a signal processor? I have upgraded front door speakers (just running of the head unit) and an amplified sub grabbing signal off the rear speaker.

 

[chicagoslick]

Ok, quick noob question here. Is there any advantage to disabling the factory DSP if you're not running a signal processor? I have upgraded front door speakers (just running of the head unit) and an amplified sub grabbing signal off the rear speaker.

Probably not much advantage if you are running off the power from the factory head unit. When you add an amp you will notice a dramatic difference and that is when you will want to have the tuning capability of a sound processor. Are you using an LOC, like the Audio Control LC2i? If not, you may want to consider that upgrade. It will make a dramatic difference in your current configuration.

Note:
I actually think the factory system is decent for a low budget factory installed system. The configuration, while not great, can be made to sound good with upgraded speakers, amps, and sound processor tuning.

 

[Stormy]

I messed around with this and got it working Friday night via FORSCAN and a cheap ELM327 cable purchased from Amazon. The cable was identified as a v1.5 by the FORSCAN software, I had read that you need a special switch installed to access the MS-CAN bus with this cable but the one I have appears to work without it.

The important bit is this:
In the ACM module
727-01-01 xx59 F8x8 xxxx - Enables Line Level with Optional Subwoofer (Aux 1) and Front Center (Aux 2) Outputs Enabled*
727-01-02 00xx - Disables Factory EQ Processing
(ACM As-Built)
I only changed the ACM 727-01-02-00xx line, mine was originally 4434, changed to 0034. The difference was immediately obvious. My box is still not tuned as low as I'd like, but it has much more volume at lower frequencies after this. I also noticed if I turned up the volume too high the door tweeters would distort, crackle or pop indicating that the factory crossover or bass cut is not there anymore. I will do some voltage testing soon so I can have empirical evidence to back up my ears, but after listening to it all weekend I am convinced it is a much flatter response now.

I am going to take a stab at this. I just got my forscan account verified. Can you help walk a brother through the change process?

 

[Stormy]

Nevermind. I figured it out. The difference is pretty noticeable, even with the stock speakers. much fuller sound. The sub effect is dramatic now. Sweeps sound linear and FR is smoother overall. It doesn't have the dramatic dips and panic overexcursion at different frequencies. I highly recommend.

 

[revdoc]

I finally got around to measuring the output voltage with the "EQ disabled" setting in FORScan as described in my last post and the results weren't great. There is still quite a bit of voltage drop at the lowest frequencies. So I used the info from the same thread on 2GFusions http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=3704 and this time I changed the 727-01-01 line, the 3rd character was changed to "5". So the line is xx5x xxxx xxxx and I didn't change the x's. This should enable the "Variable Line Level Audio Output". I figured if the output voltage is in the 0-2 volt range anyway, line level shouldn't be much lower.

The first thing I noticed is I now have to turn the volume up to 15 before I can even hear it, and 25 is the max now whereas before 15 was "everyday driving loud" and 20 was about max. So that seems to line up with the change, line level outputs should be lower and require more volume knob.

Second thing is the sub output is better. I readjusted my LC2i with my new max volume of 25 and it is much louder at lower (45 hz and below) frequencies. But, my ears have lied to me before so I tested with the voltmeter again. Below is a chart showing both tests. I did have to raise the volume for this test to 15 because at 10 I was getting almost no output, but I don't think that has an effect on the results. Remember our goal is a flatter line, not a higher voltage, we can use the gain control to make up the difference in voltage.

I am very pleased with the results, at least on paper. The previous settings had a boost in the middle of the curve that made the roll off much more noticeable. Even though with the current setting the voltage does fade below 45 hz, the difference between 35 hz and 60 hz is only .061, whereas before it was .42 or .355. I think this is the way to go if you are looking for a flat signal response from the factory head unit speaker outputs.

 

[danbfree]

Old thread that needs reviving.. Can only get my setting to take 0031 from default of 0435 and only wants to take 0031 or 0435 now is what it shows after flashing... 0031 sounds louder with more bass, fully stock system. The treble is lower so now running at +1 treble, -1 mid and 0 bass and sounds better!