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What style blow-off valve should I run?

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Florida
#1
I am looking to add a bov to my Fiesta but the options presented to me are confusing. Just got the car this year and had a Miata before it so, turbo engines are a new concept to me. I would like to have more performance output rather than just focus on minimal performance and more sound. My options are either the cp-e kit or one of the symposer delete kits. There is also the turbosmart kompact one. That one seems simple enough to install. Which ones do you think provide the best performance outputs?
https://whooshmotorsports.com/colle...e-shipping-on-all-cp-e?variant=12222097293375
https://whooshmotorsports.com/colle...e-exhale-hks-blow-off-valve-kit-for-fiesta-st
https://whooshmotorsports.com/colle.../turboxs-symposer-bov-kit-2014-2019-fiesta-st
https://whooshmotorsports.com/colle...ks-ssqblack-blow-off-valve-kit-2014-fiesta-st
https://whooshmotorsports.com/colle...-shortie-plumb-back-bov-ford-fiesta-2014-2017
 


dhminer

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#2
Couple thoughts. First, what is your build plan overall?

On the stock turbo, it won’t matter which you pick. They’ll all hold boost better than the stock BPV. I’m a 90s kid and partial to the HKS sound because that’s what I grew up hearing when I first got into cars.

Do not get the exhale kit if you ever intend to put in an aftermarket radiator because larger diameter cold side pipes do not fit with bigger radiators. The stock cold side also flows pretty well. Most of us with big turbos and more than 300whp still run it. That said, your should definitely be looking at a radiator upgrade sooner rather than later being in Florida.

I’d get that turbosmart shortie plumb back since it includes the CEL defender if you plan to stay stock turbo, hybrid, or s280 since it’ll work with all of them.

If you’re going big turbo in the future, the turbosmart XS and HKS symposer kits are great. Pick the sound you prefer as they’re both excellent parts. I’ve been running a Mountune-spec turbosmart in the symposer location for more than 4 years without any hint of any issues whatsoever.

Whatever you do, make sure you get a CEL defender. It makes life much easier than tuning out the code. Or get the turbosmart electronic BOV.,
 


ron@whoosh

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#3
Any symposer replacement kit is a better choice over one that mounts directly to the turbo
Turbo mounted BOV's require maintenance and life expectancy drops considerably due to the heat from the turbocharger

My opinion TurboXS > HKS > Turbosmart Vee Port symposer kits

If you must go with a turbo mounted unit - the Turbosmart Kompact plumb back vacuum operated is what we have found to be the best for quickest reacting, least amount of maintenance, and require no adjustments after installation

https://whooshmotorsports.com/search?q=symposer+bov

https://whooshmotorsports.com/produ...-fiesta-2014-2017?_pos=5&_sid=024eeea68&_ss=r
 


OP
sleepbattery
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Location
Florida
Thread Starter #4
Couple thoughts. First, what is your build plan overall?

On the stock turbo, it won’t matter which you pick. They’ll all hold boost better than the stock BPV. I’m a 90s kid and partial to the HKS sound because that’s what I grew up hearing when I first got into cars.

Do not get the exhale kit if you ever intend to put in an aftermarket radiator because larger diameter cold side pipes do not fit with bigger radiators. The stock cold side also flows pretty well. Most of us with big turbos and more than 300whp still run it. That said, your should definitely be looking at a radiator upgrade sooner rather than later being in Florida.

I’d get that turbosmart shortie plumb back since it includes the CEL defender if you plan to stay stock turbo, hybrid, or s280 since it’ll work with all of them.

If you’re going big turbo in the future, the turbosmart XS and HKS symposer kits are great. Pick the sound you prefer as they’re both excellent parts. I’ve been running a Mountune-spec turbosmart in the symposer location for more than 4 years without any hint of any issues whatsoever.

Whatever you do, make sure you get a CEL defender. It makes life much easier than tuning out the code. Or get the turbosmart electronic BOV.,
This is my daily/college car so as of right now i just want to do a street build that is confident on tracks whenever I have the time to go. Most likely later on I will get a slightly bigger turbo but that may be a year or two from now. Thanks for the advice on the radiator and cel defender. While I have the chance I may as well ask. What do you mean by s280? I have been seeing that phrase and similar ones being thrown around.
 


M-Sport fan

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#5
The S280 is THE 'go to' aftermarket turbo upgrade for these cars.

It is not too turbo laggy huge, nor is it 'donkey kick' ALL low end torque, totally running out of steam above 5000 RPM like some of the smaller aftermarket snails.

It is just right, and with some of the proper ancillary/supporting mods, and correct tune, can reliably (at least as reliably as possible given the greatly increased cylinder pressures on a stock, not built/forged bottom end and cylinder liner areas) make in excess of 300 HP to the wheels.
 


dhminer

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#6
This is my daily/college car so as of right now i just want to do a street build that is confident on tracks whenever I have the time to go. Most likely later on I will get a slightly bigger turbo but that may be a year or two from now. Thanks for the advice on the radiator and cel defender. While I have the chance I may as well ask. What do you mean by s280? I have been seeing that phrase and similar ones being thrown around.
S280 is by far the most popular aftermarket turbo for our cars. Whoosh sells tons of em. It’s a pretty much perfect powerband for this engine on the stock fuel system at 275-285whp which is a blast in this car. I ran one for a bit but had some reliability concerns. Tons run them without issue though so don’t take my skepticism as gospel by any means. The only way you’re getting a better turbo is by spending $5k or more for a Peron or WOR G-series, Xona, or Precision kit which are externally wastegated, a lot more difficult to install, and totally pointless if you’re not spending another $2-4k on fuel system upgrades which will end up blowing your engine and need a built bottom end. Obviously a totally different build route than slapping on a sub $2k S280 that bolts up like stock.
 




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