What should I do about lights?

[Hypergram]

But Hella's ARE the OEM's so the only difference would be possibly getting Whoosh faster than 3 weeks (2 weeks handling, 1 week shipping) it would take from this site... It does look like he stocks them so probably 1 week to receive from Ron. So is getting them 2 weeks later worth saving $150, for some people it may be... And that's assuming they cars245 asks more for shipping, shows only $613 shipped and both sources will need the bulbs.

Wait, so Hella is the OEM manufacturer for the lamps? I thought they were just a competitor for Depo.

 

[danbfree]

Wait, so Hella is the OEM manufacturer for the lamps? I thought they were just a competitor for Depo.

Yep, I mentioned further back that Hella and another company are the actual manufacturers of the OEM's... So looks like a great way to get a better deal on them. The shipping on those has an extra option, which is the default cheapest way, for a bit more you can go with EMS or DHL I think, and keep it down to a week shipping time, up to you. but in any case, looks like you are at less than $650 as long as you can handle the 2 week handling/special order time... Also, noticed that the right side Depo that was out of stock has been pulled completely looks like, dang... I'm also reading a lot of people that prefer TYC over Depo in general, they may be worth considering depending on their lead time, your budget and if you can get past FiSt owners having aiming range issues with some in the past.

 

[Hypergram]

Yep, I mentioned further back that Hella and another company are the actual manufacturers of the OEM's... So looks like a great way to get a better deal on them. The shipping on those has an extra option, which is the default cheapest way, for a bit more you can go with EMS or DHL I think, and keep it down to a week shipping time, up to you. but in any case, looks like you are at less than $650 as long as you can handle the 2 week handling/special order time... Also, noticed that the right side Depo that was out of stock has been pulled completely looks like, dang... I'm also reading a lot of people that prefer TYC over Depo in general, they may be worth considering depending on their lead time, your budget and if you can get past FiSt owners having aiming range issues with some in the past.

Interesting. Thank you. I'll think about it. I've bought the recommended bulbs so I'll probably put those in my stock headlamps for now (I wanna buy a FMIC first) and will probably transfer those to the new lamps when I get them.

 

[Blindeye_03]

They are on the same page as the original list I put up, HERE. What gets me is that the difference between the $300 ones and the $534 ones... first, you don't want the expensive ones as they are for UK/former colonies/left hand traffic but they have to pay a lot more just to include the Hella brand bulbs and meet their safety certs... But yeah, "only" 2 weeks handling time and much lower shipping cost strangely on the $300 Hella's, seems like a very good alternative to getting $800 OEM's for only $650 or less!

So would it be these two?
https://cars245.com/en/item/hella-1EL354803061-headlight/
https://cars245.com/en/item/hella-1EL354803051-headlight/

Those are for "right hand traffic".

 

[Hypergram]

So would it be these two?
https://cars245.com/en/item/hella-1EL354803061-headlight/
https://cars245.com/en/item/hella-1EL354803051-headlight/

Those are for "right hand traffic".

Yep these look like the ones! You gonna get em?

 

[Blindeye_03]

Yep these look like the ones! You gonna get em?

Not right now, I already repurposed my refund into other hobbies lol. ill have to save up some cash again - till then I have the H11 Techmax LEDs installed. I was hoping to grab the depos but ill wait and see what pops up in stock. Also both those Hellas show special order.

 

[danbfree]

Interesting. Thank you. I'll think about it. I've bought the recommended bulbs so I'll probably put those in my stock headlamps for now (I wanna buy a FMIC first) and will probably transfer those to the new lamps when I get them.

You'll have to get H7's for the low beam when you do, but at least EXCELLENT ones are under $50 (Katana)... and the Hella's don't show 30 days handling like some others, only half that, so likely far more likely to get in about 3 weeks total, like what happened to me with the Depo's anyway and it was worth the wait!

 

[Blindeye_03]

You'll have to get H7's for the low beam when you do, but at least EXCELLENT ones are under $50 (Katana)... and the Hella's don't show 30 days handling like some others, only half that, so likely far more likely to get in about 3 weeks total, like what happened to me with the Depo's anyway and it was worth the wait!

Ill get some soon enough, I do like the cutoffs on the euro projectors a LOT. I also had purchased the H7 Katana bulbs but already sent them back to Amazon.

Also toying with the idea of getting a second set of OEM housings and getting them retrofit.

 

[danbfree]

Ill get some soon enough, I do like the cutoffs on the euro projectors a LOT. I also had purchased the H7 Katana bulbs but already sent them back to Amazon.

Also toying with the idea of getting a second set of OEM housings and getting them retrofit.

Retrofitting is not a bad way to go, at all, if you really prioritize having an absolutely top quality projector itself over the other features. Honestly, I was thinking I'd have to be upgrading the projectors in my Depo's but it really looks like the standard ones have a come a long way and I'm surprised and am happy with them. And if you go that route, might want to consider the inexpensive Depo US OEM replica's since they are easier to split.

 

[Intuit]

So would it be these two?
https://cars245.com/en/item/hella-1EL354803061-headlight/
https://cars245.com/en/item/hella-1EL354803051-headlight/

Those are for "right hand traffic".

Yep these look like the ones! You gonna get em?

I see I'm not the only one that's confused.

So they're "Left Hand Drive" but also "For Right Hand Traffic" ??? Sure these are the correct ones? Definitely don't want to buy the wrong ones and have to pay big bucks to ship'em back overseas.

Yeah I'm about to make the venture. Been busy answering all of my questions perusing the various threads. I only have two left, this being one of them. I'll be using a combination of visual inspect, that crappy CD Helm manual and circuit tester to answer my other. (most convenient spot for getting 12v with ignition-on - power the relay's coil for DRL switching)

Thanks.

 

[Intuit]

Okay I get it.
https://www.pakwheels.com/blog/difference-left-hand-traffic-right-hand-traffic/
Left Hand Drive = Steering Wheel on Left
Right Hand Traffic = Driving on the Right Side of the Road

Different ways of saying the same thing.
One question left...

 

[danbfree]

Okay I get it.
https://www.pakwheels.com/blog/difference-left-hand-traffic-right-hand-traffic/
Left Hand Drive = Steering Wheel on Left
Right Hand Traffic = Driving on the Right Side of the Road

Different ways of saying the same thing.
One question left...

Yes: LHT and RHD are the same and LHT and RHD are the same.. and what's your other question? For fully auto DRL you just move the one wire to the low power position and then run the power from the add a fuse to the the empty high power position on each by running 2 wires off the end of the add a circuit, for the passenger side I actually just ran the wire around the top of the radiator cover area, but maybe around back of the firewall could be safer or look better, you can see my power cable running across the top black plastic area of the radiator cover but doesn't look bad.

 

[Intuit]

Yep that's what I surmised from the other threads.

However two issues give me pause about "blind" use of an add-a-circuit type product.

First, if possible I'd rather avoid hacking up the engine compartment fuse box. (note1: https://www.amazon.com/Ram-Pro-Assortment-different-See-through-Organizer/dp/B01NAN025Y/ note2: run wire out back of box for best chance at not allowing water/humidity to build up inside)

Second, Add-A-Circuit and the various knock-offs are really bad design. The add-on fuse doesn't slave off of the original. It is instead, its own circuit. This leaves open the possibility of placing more load on that wiring than what the manufacturer intended. That could create a wire-on-wire short, deep within the tens of feet of wiring harness somewhere in the vehicle; and it will challenge and frustrate even the most experienced mechanics to diagnose, find and fix related electrical gremlins. (note3: https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-ATC-1-Clear-Fast-Acting-Automotive/dp/B01H9XALY0/)

As alluded to before, I'll need to do some personal investigation in order to determine the next best step. But what I've done for similar nano projects in the past, is use a relay to power add-ons. The relay coil itself is powered via an appropriately fused circuit. For examples... https://www.r6-forum.com/forums/51-how-tos/444878-guide-wiring-new-horns.html https://www.r6-forum.com/forums/51-how-tos/445712-how-relay-sae-terminal.html

One thing to note, is the USDM engine compartment fuse box gets an individual 10A fuse for each light. One is earmarked for Left Fog, Right Fog, Left High Beam, Right High Beam. I'm going to look for the UK owner's manual as it may provide some clues as to how the power is handled with the DRLs. Looks like there's a common fuse for the reverse lights and don't see a fuse at all for the marker and low beams. These curiosities might be satisfied via (crappy Helm CD) service manual.

 

[danbfree]

Yep that's what I surmised from the other threads.

However two issues give me pause about "blind" use of an add-a-circuit type product.

First, if possible I'd rather avoid hacking up the engine compartment fuse box. (note1: https://www.amazon.com/Ram-Pro-Assortment-different-See-through-Organizer/dp/B01NAN025Y/ note2: run wire out back of box for best chance at not allowing water/humidity to build up inside)

Second, Add-A-Circuit and the various knock-offs are really bad design. The add-on fuse doesn't slave off of the original. It is instead, its own circuit. This leaves open the possibility of placing more load on that wiring than what the manufacturer intended. That could create a wire-on-wire short, deep within the tens of feet of wiring harness somewhere in the vehicle; and it will challenge and frustrate even the most experienced mechanics to diagnose, find and fix related electrical gremlins. (note3: https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-ATC-1-Clear-Fast-Acting-Automotive/dp/B01H9XALY0/)

As alluded to before, I'll need to do some personal investigation in order to determine the next best step. But what I've done for similar nano projects in the past, is use a relay to power add-ons. The relay coil itself is powered via an appropriately fused circuit. For examples... https://www.r6-forum.com/forums/51-how-tos/444878-guide-wiring-new-horns.html https://www.r6-forum.com/forums/51-how-tos/445712-how-relay-sae-terminal.html

One thing to note, is the USDM engine compartment fuse box gets an individual 10A fuse for each light. One is earmarked for Left Fog, Right Fog, Left High Beam, Right High Beam. I'm going to look for the UK owner's manual as it may provide some clues as to how the power is handled with the DRLs. Looks like there's a common fuse for the reverse lights and don't see a fuse at all for the marker and low beams. These curiosities might be satisfied via (crappy Helm CD) service manual.

I'm not versed on all the complexities you describe, but absolutely nothing in the fuse box is hacked in what I used, and in fact all my electrically oriented buddies have no problems with how an Add a Circuit works. It has it's own 5A fuse and you place in an empty existing spot in the fuse box that is switched on by ignition. The wires easily go around and under the cover and a little electrical tape can be used to provide routing and insulation for the 18awg wire, which ever direction you choose to route it. So I'm really not sure what you mean about any concerns when adding a fused circuit to an already empty and available spot?

 

[Intuit]

Are you using an already empty spot?
I'm speaking about products like this...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074CH3T4K/

 

[danbfree]

Are you using an already empty spot?
I'm speaking about products like this...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074CH3T4K/

Yes, one like that but had an existing empty spot on my '17 under hood fuse box... I think '16+ should have that same empty spot, I'll go grab a pic...

 

[danbfree]

Are you using an already empty spot?
I'm speaking about products like this...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074CH3T4K/

It has its own empty spot and the wire guys nearly out the groove to the side to exit cleanly.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

 

[Intuit]

Thanks for the info Dan!
Per owner's manual it looks like the "F23" position; labeled "15A Camshaft sensor. Heated exhaust gas oxygen sensors."
Must say I'm surprised that this spot is empty on any of the models including your 2017. It's not as though any model/trims won't have these components.
If it's a documentation error, it wouldn't be the first or only one I've run into though. (transmission capacity)
The yellow fuses are designated as 20Amp. Based on the own/man it may be a good idea to swap that out for a 15A. Don't have a 15A go for 10A; better too little than too much. (These LED strips aren't likely to use 15A anyway.)
For the passenger compartment box on my 2016, unfortunately none of the empty fuse spots were usable on my 16. One empty spot oddly, had only a single contact in it LoL.
If I find anything different on my '16 I'll post-up.
Thanks again.

 

[danbfree]

Thanks for the info Dan!
Per owner's manual it looks like the "F23" position; labeled "15A Camshaft sensor. Heated exhaust gas oxygen sensors."
Must say I'm surprised that this spot is empty on any of the models including your 2017. It's not as though any model/trims won't have these components.
If it's a documentation error, it wouldn't be the first or only one I've run into though. (transmission capacity)
The yellow fuses are designated as 20Amp. Based on the own/man it may be a good idea to swap that out for a 15A. Don't have a 15A go for 10A; better too little than too much. (These LED strips aren't likely to use 15A anyway.)
For the passenger compartment box on my 2016, unfortunately none of the empty fuse spots were usable on my 16. One empty spot oddly, had only a single contact in it LoL.
If I find anything different on my '16 I'll post-up.
Thanks again.

OK, I figured it out, only thing you were wrong about was the fuse, that IS 5A... BUT, you're right about all the rest, my buddy had to use that spot and he has IT'S pre-existing 15A in the 2nd slot on the Add A Circuit under the one you see on top... so it wasn't it's own blank spot, he never explained to me that he had to do it that way! So with the fuses stacked that way, worse thing that happens is up to 15A hits my headlights and could fry my DRL's with those 2 power lines going to them off that with a 15A and 5A fuse stacked on there? Or with the lower fuse 15A, that's for what flows through there normally and the 5A will protect the wires coming off it? I guess I never considered how the 2 stack Add A Circuit worked or he had to do it!

 

[Intuit]

Wow okay. Yeah those are "critical" systems. As I understood it, that's powering the DRLs directly and not a relay coil. If it is powering only a relay coil, then change that 5A to a fast-acting 1A. If it is powering the DRLs direclty, I'd certainly change how that's done. First, it's best to choose a related and non-critical circuit. Second, I had tested an Add-A-Circuit (AAC) product. The way they *should* be designed, is to have the secondary fuse, slave off of the original. If it were designed that way, you would only have the maximum potential of 15A going over the OEM wire that is feeding that fuse. But unfortunately that's not how these are designed. Instead you have the potential of 15A and another 5A, going over that OEM wire harness. That's a potential 33% increase in load. Take out your AAC and probe it out with a circuit tester. You'll be able to confirm what I've been saying. It's just something that we all assumed was designed right, but unfortunately wasn't and isn't. I know of no AAC type products that claim to do it right. But that's not to say that they don't exist.

It's certainly true that nothing may ever become of it. But what if it does? The potential consequences are too much to risk. Camshaft sensor consumption should be consistent. But it's a bright frigid morning and the O² sensors are running near peak loads heating themselves; DRLs on high. Wire gets a little warm, but nothing ever becomes of it. But fast forward many Winters down the road. That wire that spent some periods running too warm, has now melted through its insulation, and is now working on adjacent wires. Different oxygen sensors can even operate on higher tolerances; placing the circuit even closer toward the 15A maximum. The potential consequences are too much to risk.

.

Earlier this year I purchased a new motorcycle battery that sat on the store shelf too long and was allowed to run down to ~10.3v. I recharged it to 12.6 overnight and installed it in the motorcycle. Wouldn't crank at all... just the characteristic rapid clicking from the starter motor. So I grabbed my original battery (still good) to use as a jump start-assist. I connected it using the 18 or 20 gauge alligator clip wires laying around. I was just curious whether it would work. (I like to experiment sometimes and didn't care if I burned them up.) Not only did it work, it seemed work well enough. Several extended cranks and starts. (trying to pin down a running issue) Warm to the touch, but the wires believe it or not, looked good. Then I pulled them out a few weeks later and noticed this... https://1drv.ms/u/s!AhsZJDCN8kMMgaRaapkIsVm2Wuf-2A This is what starts to occur gradually, slowly, potentially over years, inside a wire harness that experiences brief periods of overload. The wires should've been fourteen or better gauge, instead of the eighteen or twenty I experimented with.