What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?

[Cneu]

Had AAA visit my house this morning to install a new battery. I think I got my money's worth out of this last one with it being about 5yrs old. Not bad, only 2 batteries in 10yrs! Originally, AAA stated that my area is not covered so I made a quick call to a friend who works for them and lo and behold, I had a new battery installed in about 40 mins. It's not what you know, it's WHO you know!

Some might consider this immoral, but Napa has a 2 year no questions asked warranty on batteries. I buy a new battery, set a 23 month reminder on my phone(and write it on the battery), and go swap it out at 23 months. Napa has never given any issue about this.

I had a friend drive across the country in his 1980s 4runner with his alternator dead. All he did was plan his trip around Napa locations, then he'd stop and swap his battery out. He alternated(ha) between two batteries the entire trip, replacing em along the way. He had to do this, kinda, cuz nobody had hsi alternator in stock. Napa never gave him any trouble.

Batteries are insanely expensive nowadays so I have no qualms with this.



I busted the bolt off my intake pipe, again, so I had to run to ace to get new bolts for that. I think this is the 3rd or 4th time I've had to replace this bolt, lol. It's VERY obvious when it comes off. That exhaust bang gets annoying.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Installed this Gem today and got rid of the Vacuum pump. Got optioned harness too...Excellent idea!

 

[Grsemky]

This morning was a productive one, I managed to install a mishi knock off radiator. No need to pull the crash bar or anything off the front end.

Tolerances are tight so if you're not used to working in cars you might struggle a bit...
Temps are phenomenal now, this is with AC on sitting idling

 

[isis]

I took my doors apart to do some sound deadening and speakers. Turns out the PO hacked the wiring, disabled the tweeters and put in some cheap pioneer 2-way gems. I had a pair of JBL mid woofers and they just don’t fit on the hacked factory ring. So I ordered some adapters to replace those, and some new connectors for the wiring so I can finish that tomorrow. I was, however, able to put a big chunk of sound deadening all the way up the doors through the speaker hole. I got a 20” x 18” sheet in each door. That should help a lot of things. Hopefully the connectors and mounting rings come tomorrow. I also have shifter bushings, rear subframe locator inserts, an intercooler, and ram-air scoop to do. The CTS-V is officially the driver for the next few weeks as I address the collection of upgrades I’ve accumulated since June. I accidentally bought rear side window louvers but they are for a FoST not a FiST so if anyone wants those let me know, it’s been too long to return them.

 

[Downsy]

Last night, I changed the oil, collected a sample to send off to Blackstone, and rotated the tires on the Fiesta. Found the front driver's strut blown out, These are Koni Orange struts the previous owner installed. That explains why it's been blowing though it's suspension travel so easily. Due to the absolute shit roads around here I'm doing a full suspension overhaul and going back to stock height springs, from Eibach Sports, but to keep a bit of performance ride I'll be going with Bilstein B6 shocks and struts. There are too many spots where I can drag the front lower cross brace on normal FM roads, some are so badly rutted, and I'm talking paved roads, the car could potentially become high centered on them, I have to really be on my toes to avoid the deeper heavy truck ruts.

Until then, FiST is sidelined, and I'm dailying the Rabbit.

 

[isis]

I took my doors apart to do some sound deadening and speakers. Turns out the PO hacked the wiring, disabled the tweeters and put in some cheap pioneer 2-way gems. I had a pair of JBL mid woofers and they just don’t fit on the hacked factory ring. So I ordered some adapters to replace those, and some new connectors for the wiring so I can finish that tomorrow. I was, however, able to put a big chunk of sound deadening all the way up the doors through the speaker hole. I got a 20” x 18” sheet in each door. That should help a lot of things. Hopefully the connectors and mounting rings come tomorrow. I also have shifter bushings, rear subframe locator inserts, an intercooler, and ram-air scoop to do. The CTS-V is officially the driver for the next few weeks as I address the collection of upgrades I’ve accumulated since June. I accidentally bought rear side window louvers but they are for a FoST not a FiST so if anyone wants those let me know, it’s been too long to return them.

Adapter rings and connectors were successful. I want to do them in the rear doors it worked so well. I put the sound deadening on the doors and installed silicone baffles behind some JBL speakers with magnets the size of hockey pucks. Muy bueno. Turns out the PO didn’t disable the tweeters, but I’m not convinced that’s good or bad. I’ll probably do the shifter bushings next before I peel off the bumpers for the next work. Front for the air scoop and intercooler, rear for the water leaks that soak my rear passenger footwell.

 

[Pandadoo]

For my first move i tried to get a closer look under the car because the "contrôle technique" (VTV in usa) made before i buyed it shows rust (no invasive, no perforating rust, just surfacing rust) on engine cradle, but due ton the lowered springs it's more than difficult :-(

By the way, because painful roads around my place, i think to get off lowered springs and put in normal springs..

 

[M-Sport fan]

For my first move i tried to get a closer look under the car because the "contrôle technique" (VTV in usa) made before i buyed it shows rust (no invasive, no perforating rust, just surfacing rust) on engine cradle, but due ton the lowered springs it's more than difficult :-(

By the way, because painful roads around my place, i think to get off lowered springs and put in normal springs..

Do they salt and brine the roads there in winter, in the mountains/maritime Alps (or even in the Massif Central), or do you live on the southern coastal area with the salt water air (why the rust)?

 

[WolfDampf]

Ordered an $88 front brake kit specifically sold as FOR ST models. Includes 2x front rotors and pads. Will report back on how these feel and function. Only ordered as my brakes are all wobbly and worn out needing replacement(They came with the car like that) and I'm trying to wait it out before I buy a Vmaxx bbk

 

[Pandadoo]

Do they salt and brine the roads there in winter, in the mountains/maritime Alps (or even in the Massif Central), or do you live on the southern coastal area with the salt water air (why the rust)?

No, in fact i buyed that car by importing her from Germany to France, and considering winters over there, i'm not surprised since "i think" car was sleeping outside all along..

 

[Cneu]

Yesterday I got the new v3 flash from Dizzy. I dont do the crackle or pop stuff. Managed to hit 27.5psi of boost on the stock turbo. Kind of wild. It's definitely a bit "smoother". There's a bit more of a "bang" in the exhaust but it's pretty rare and can be avoided. Good tune.

I didnt even notice the boost psi until a while later when I looked at the min/max on the accessport. lol

 

[Zeille]

I don't have any pictures, but my low side fuel pressure sensor went out on Monday. Car would run decent for 30 seconds in the 90-degree weather, then bog down, stumble, then die. lsfp actual was giving me ~50-60 psi, which was just too low. It was throwing a CEL and the codes P0087 and P008B.

Thankfully, that occured at ~1pm, and my buddy Brandon was incredibly quick to act & help, sourced a part from the dealer near him, and drove out to my car at 7pm. We got the sensor swapped in 30 minutes, put back together, cleared codes, it still gave us the issues and threw codes. He was worried the actual fuel pump was toast, as the car has 168,xxx miles now. However, I told him "just reset ECU learning", and that fixed the issue! Car was driving great, and idle seems to be alright. I've got a new passenger blend door actuator and a new evap purge valve coming some time in May that I ordered on AliExpress on the cheap.

Trying to sell my other friend's dual catch can kit so I can go get a catless downpipe & whoosh short ram intake with the money he's allowing me to keep from the sale... I want the power like Brandon's car has - which we're both tuned on e30 by Adam, but he's catless & has a "CAI", and his car is much louder and quicker to spool. My turbo might be kicking the bucket, though. We'll see.

 

[WolfDampf]

Does anyone know if it's safe to run without the spring under the clutch pedal? When I bought my car I removed it as it was broken and keeping my pedal stuck to the floor(that was several thousands of miles ago). Now after letting the tint shop guy drive my car into his garage(he rode that clutch no gas at all even though it was a rather short time maybe 2 mins) my pedal is very very soft and I see leaks around my transmission. On my way home the clutch wasn't fully disengaging on starts and very soft with very little travel. I went ahead and bled the clutch just now and it's stiff again and working fine but I'm assuming my slave will go out soon and looking for advice if I need a new pedal assembly or if I can keep running without the spring as it feels a lot stiffer and I do prefer the feel. Also if anyone knows a good shop in Houston TX area. Thanks!

I'm guessing this is gonna be around 2500$ for parts and labor.

Edit: also I'm thinking of adding an lsd what other parts would I need for that install and should I replace axle seals now or leave em since they aren't leaky? Thanks

 

[BadShot]

installed Vibra-technics upper mounts to match the RMM. NVM isn’t much worse at idle but A/C bring the party a bit. Engine feels more connected and spirited shifts feel more solid. Money well spent. Threw in some Whoosh shifter cable bracket bushings because they’re right there and $20, unsure that changed much but they sure look cool!

 

[STRemy]

Does anyone know if it's safe to run without the spring under the clutch pedal? When I bought my car I removed it as it was broken and keeping my pedal stuck to the floor(that was several thousands of miles ago). Now after letting the tint shop guy drive my car into his garage(he rode that clutch no gas at all even though it was a rather short time maybe 2 mins) my pedal is very very soft and I see leaks around my transmission. On my way home the clutch wasn't fully disengaging on starts and very soft with very little travel. I went ahead and bled the clutch just now and it's stiff again and working fine but I'm assuming my slave will go out soon and looking for advice if I need a new pedal assembly or if I can keep running without the spring as it feels a lot stiffer and I do prefer the feel. Also if anyone knows a good shop in Houston TX area. Thanks!

I'm guessing this is gonna be around 2500$ for parts and labor.

Edit: also I'm thinking of adding an lsd what other parts would I need for that install and should I replace axle seals now or leave em since they aren't leaky? Thanks

I recommend replacing the axle seal any time I pull an axle. The $20 for the seal is far cheap then paying someone to do it later. Same with torque converters ect. This become more important the farther you are into things cause now labor cost is the major factor. The B6 overhaul labor is 11.4hr + 1.5 for diff. I would probably fix the spring.... its part of the pedal assembly which is the master as well...... might as well just do it all at once. If you see fluid around transmission the slave is leaking your clutch is contaminated so clutch, disk, and flywheel/resurface. MAster will leak onto firewall or interior floor. Check the lines, they are plastic and right above the transmission so it might just be one of those. Just clutch is 6.6, master is 1.3hr labor sourced from ALLDATA, 2017 FiST. Do not see labor for bleeding system. Figure 0.5-0.8 for that.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

I don't have any pictures, but my low side fuel pressure sensor went out on Monday. Car would run decent for 30 seconds in the 90-degree weather, then bog down, stumble, then die. lsfp actual was giving me ~50-60 psi, which was just too low. It was throwing a CEL and the codes P0087 and P008B.

Thankfully, that occured at ~1pm, and my buddy Brandon was incredibly quick to act & help, sourced a part from the dealer near him, and drove out to my car at 7pm. We got the sensor swapped in 30 minutes, put back together, cleared codes, it still gave us the issues and threw codes. He was worried the actual fuel pump was toast, as the car has 168,xxx miles now. However, I told him "just reset ECU learning", and that fixed the issue! Car was driving great, and idle seems to be alright. I've got a new passenger blend door actuator and a new evap purge valve coming some time in May that I ordered on AliExpress on the cheap.

Trying to sell my other friend's dual catch can kit so I can go get a catless downpipe & whoosh short ram intake with the money he's allowing me to keep from the sale... I want the power like Brandon's car has - which we're both tuned on e30 by Adam, but he's catless & has a "CAI", and his car is much louder and quicker to spool. My turbo might be kicking the bucket, though. We'll see.

Which sensor did you replace?