What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?

[XanRules]

New fog lights, coolant flush/change, transmission fluid change, fresh oil. Nothing exciting.

 

[akiraproject24]

Hey folks!

Since my last post I developed a misfire, I think I got something wet driving in a monsoon out of Miami. Jumped on whoosh and ordered some coil packs, had a pack of brisk iridium spark plugs lying around tossed them in no more misfire, if anything car feels happier across the rev range.

Also, didn't take any pictures but updated my component speakers and tweeters with some Ct Sounds to level out the sub in the boot. Night and day.

Cheers

Curious on how you mounted speakers? Adapter rings used?

 

[KXNGABE85]

Curious on how you mounted speakers? Adapter rings used?

Hey, so I knew going into it that I would be re-using the factory speaker mounts so I pulled those and ripped out the old speakers. Used a drimel to cut out the speaker cage. Swapped my speakers in and then soldered the lines the same way the previous speaker was.

Tweeters different story, literally nothing online for them so I pulled the tweeters and removed back portion which had the adapter and stock plug. I soldered the new tweeter ends onto the leads and it ended up working lol. No real science here just a bit of common sense really. Got the rears next up, going to dynamat everything so I'll take pictures then and post. If you have any questions lmk.

 

[SteveS]

Took it to the dealer Monday to have brake and clutch fluid flushed and filled and bled, slider pins greased. The fluid flush actually mostly fixed the sticking down clutch pedal. If you hold the clutch down a long time it's slow coming back up, but in normal driving and if you put it in neutral and take foot off the clutch at stop lights, it behaves pretty much normally. This is at 56,000 miles. They said the front brake pads were badly worn. They wanted $380 to replace pads and rotors, but it was with NAPA parts because they didn't have the Ford ones in stock. When I asked about ordering in the Ford performance pads they said it would be $770. So I got the pads from Rockauto for $55 and some Centric rotors for $33 each. Swapped them out this morning and also destroyed the kitchen sink scrubbing the pretty red caliper brackets to get all the black grease/dust/dirt glop off them. But my wife got that all cleaned up and the brakes look great!

 

[M-Sport fan]

My local dealers wanted $300.00 per axle for labor only for a brake replacement, and most of them would not do the job with customer supplied parts.

What did they charge for the clutch/brake system flush, and would they have allowed you to supply the fluid?

 

[SteveS]

My local dealers wanted $300.00 per axle for labor only for a brake replacement, and most of them would not do the job with customer supplied parts.

What did they charge for the clutch/brake system flush, and would they have allowed you to supply the fluid?

The fluid flush and bleed was $180. I know I could have done it but I don't have a power fill/bleed tool and I don't want to get Forscan to do the ABS bleed thing. I don't think I could have supplied the fluid but I didn't ask; just ordinary DOT4 is all I wanted.

Personally I think they did their math wrong on the price for replacing NAPA parts with Motorcraft parts. I was dealing on the phone since they discovered the worn pads doing the slide pins. But he told me how much the NAPA brake parts were and I can look online to see what the retail price for Motorcraft parts are. The price difference is not $400. In fact, if I had ordered the pads and rotors from fordparts.com to be picked up at the dealer's parts counter, they offer a discounted price over retail. When I pointed out the price discrepancy to the service writer his reponse on the phone was essentially a shrug of the shoulders. If they had said waiting a day for Motorcraft parts was going to be an additional $100 over their original quote (the real price difference in parts) they'd have gotten the job. Instead Rockauto sold me the parts and I did the labor.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Do you know if they did the clutch by the factory manual 'reverse flush' method, or just a regular old gravity, or vacuum on the reservoir push through method?

 

[SteveS]

Do you know if they did the clutch by the factory manual 'reverse flush' method, or just a regular old gravity, or vacuum on the reservoir push through method?

They said they use a pressure machine. So I interpreted that to mean pressure from above the reservoir.

 

[contemplative_shrimp]

The fluid flush and bleed was $180. I know I could have done it but I don't have a power fill/bleed tool and I don't want to get Forscan to do the ABS bleed thing. I don't think I could have supplied the fluid but I didn't ask; just ordinary DOT4 is all I wanted.

All local Ford dealers and 3rd party mechanics near me wanted something akin to $300 for JUST the clutch fluid. They wanted almost $600 for brake fluid + clutch fluid, not including any pads etc. I don't know what the hell dealers think they're doing with this car, I expect that gouging with brands like Mini (got quoted $600 for a replacement strut on my old mini).

I did it myself along with the brake fluid with my motive bleeder for cost of parts and a couple hours taking my time.

 

[M-Sport fan]

The local dealers quoted me ~$350.00 for the clutch and brake system flushes, and most would not allow me to use the fluid I wanted.

The single mechanic/owner indie shop (out of his house's garage, actually with a built in floor single lift) I found charged me $95.00 for both.

 

[Sam4]

My local dealers wanted $300.00 per axle for labor only for a brake replacement, and most of them would not do the job with customer supplied parts.

What did they charge for the clutch/brake system flush, and would they have allowed you to supply the fluid?

Fred Beans gets $200 for a manual trans fluid change. I just declined it last week. Ouch!

 

[M-Sport fan]

Noo shooz;




Conti Extreme Contact DWS-06+ 205/50-16 on 16x8, ET40 Dekagrams, Goodwin Racing 19mm hex, 35mm length, alloy lug nuts.

My bronze Dekagrams with Neo Gens on them, 17x8 Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2s with 215/40-17 Feddy RS-RRs on them and a set of unmounted/new 225/45-16 Yokohama A052s will be going up for sale soon (just have to get them out and take the pics).

 

[KXNGABE85]

Hey, so I knew going into it that I would be re-using the factory speaker mounts so I pulled those and ripped out the old speakers. Used a drimel to cut out the speaker cage. Swapped my speakers in and then soldered the lines the same way the previous speaker was.

Tweeters different story, literally nothing online for them so I pulled the tweeters and removed back portion which had the adapter and stock plug. I soldered the new tweeter ends onto the leads and it ended up working lol. No real science here just a bit of common sense really. Got the rears next up, going to dynamat everything so I'll take pictures then and post. If you have any questions lmk.

What up!

Just a quick follow up on a couple of upgrades. Rear component speakers in, sorry no picture of them installed but plenty of pictures online. One thing I'll note, my 2016 door(s) come with sound proofing panels, so instead of lining the doors with dynamat (Amazon basics version lol) I did it in the trunk and my goodness I'm addicted and plan on doing the roof, driver side floor plus passenger side. I have a muffler delete and I never realized how much of the vibration and sound I was getting from my muffler delete. Insane how much quieter it is in the car so, I'll be doing more in the future.

As far as the speaker upgrade as a whole all the way around. Night and day difference, the Hi's and Mid's are on par with the sub, which is an absolute monster lol. Install isn't too bad, door panels are surprisingly easy to take off on this car. Using the factory brackets was the way to go for me since I am by no means an audio engineer. Re- soldering the leads the same way as factory was easy enough to follow and not mess up. With the tweeters it was more involved but same concept. Even if you don't have a sub, I would still upgrade the component speakers.

Gabe

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Noo shooz;

View attachment 64434
View attachment 64435

Conti Extreme Contact DWS-06+ 205/50-16 on 16x8, ET40 Dekagrams, Goodwin Racing 19mm hex, 35mm length, alloy lug nuts.

My bronze Dekagrams with Neo Gens on them, 17x8 Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2s with 215/40-17 Feddy RS-RRs on them and a set of unmounted/new 225/45-16 Yokohama A052s will be going up for sale soon (just have to get them out and take the pics).

Great choice in Lug nuts....Been running them for years on my FiST!

 

[TyphoonFiST]

What up!

Just a quick follow up on a couple of upgrades. Rear component speakers in, sorry no picture of them installed but plenty of pictures online. One thing I'll note, my 2016 door(s) come with sound proofing panels, so instead of lining the doors with dynamat (Amazon basics version lol) I did it in the trunk and my goodness I'm addicted and plan on doing the roof, driver side floor plus passenger side. I have a muffler delete and I never realized how much of the vibration and sound I was getting from my muffler delete. Insane how much quieter it is in the car so, I'll be doing more in the future.

As far as the speaker upgrade as a whole all the way around. Night and day difference, the Hi's and Mid's are on par with the sub, which is an absolute monster lol. Install isn't too bad, door panels are surprisingly easy to take off on this car. Using the factory brackets was the way to go for me since I am by no means an audio engineer. Re- soldering the leads the same way as factory was easy enough to follow and not mess up. With the tweeters it was more involved but same concept. Even if you don't have a sub, I would still upgrade the component speakers.

Gabe

How much was the Amazon matting?

 

[KXNGABE85]

How much was the Amazon matting?

I think I paid 26 bucks for it on Amazon, got 10 sheets which worked great in the trunk. Super impressed with how well it works, I can hear so much better in the car now.

 

[isis]

Installed a Cobb RMM and a whoosh ricer plate.

• Mount feels good. Haven’t been on highway but haven’t noticed any increased noise. No more squeaky action when I take off or shift at low speeds.
• Ricer plate is a bit loud and silly for first and second gear but it’s kind of a silly little car anyway so it kind of fits.

I’m pretty happy. Haven’t done much else in a while. Lugnuts are swollen (giggity) so probably should replace them. Anyone got a Mcgard part number handy? They’re my go-to.

 

[M-Sport fan]

By 'ricer plate' do you mean the whoosh vent to atmosphere diverter valve spacer??


Most on here seem to go for the McGard (or Gorilla/Muteki) splined lug nuts, but I personally do not like that style.

Way back when I still had the factory wheels, I used these (black chrome) McGard lug nuts (part # 64015, you need 4 of these since 4 pieces per pack) on them (and still use them on my winter/rally working Method wheels with large lug pockets).

 

[pixelzombie]

What up!

Just a quick follow up on a couple of upgrades. Rear component speakers in, sorry no picture of them installed but plenty of pictures online. One thing I'll note, my 2016 door(s) come with sound proofing panels, so instead of lining the doors with dynamat (Amazon basics version lol) I did it in the trunk and my goodness I'm addicted and plan on doing the roof, driver side floor plus passenger side. I have a muffler delete and I never realized how much of the vibration and sound I was getting from my muffler delete. Insane how much quieter it is in the car so, I'll be doing more in the future.

As far as the speaker upgrade as a whole all the way around. Night and day difference, the Hi's and Mid's are on par with the sub, which is an absolute monster lol. Install isn't too bad, door panels are surprisingly easy to take off on this car. Using the factory brackets was the way to go for me since I am by no means an audio engineer. Re- soldering the leads the same way as factory was easy enough to follow and not mess up. With the tweeters it was more involved but same concept. Even if you don't have a sub, I would still upgrade the component speakers.

Gabe

I'm intrigued by the dynamat, it really that made that big of a difference?

 

[pixelzombie]

I went to replace a rear strut from Raceland as it was making a clanking noise at the top mounting point. It turns the only issue was the bolt holding the upper mount had come loose and that was the noise I had been hearing. I'm surprised that no one at Raceland had me check that before mailing me a new rear strut.