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What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?

M-Sport fan

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Try this... our CRV has been the commuting mule lately - my wife doesn't drive my car and we carpool a few times per week when the weather is bad. Last night it was raining hard, and I went out with a bucket of soapy water and soaped down the Honda in the driveway and let nature do the rest. Pulled it into the garage and this morning it was dry, clean and spot-free.
HA!
This is my 'standard operating procedure' for washing my ride, and the ONLY way I am able to wash it AT ALL except for going to a drive through car wash, which I refuse to do since I HATE swirl marks and scratches.

The only difference is mine must then stay outside overnight (WTF is a garage?!? LOL), so I dry it off in the AM, and either wax, or detail spray it before the sun hits it, in order to prevent streaks.
 


Intuit

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Same here... with rare exception that's the only time I wash is during or immediately following a rain. I use an old motorcycle rain suit. When its been soaked in the wet for literally hours, dirt comes off more readily and is less likely to scratch the clear coat; when washed with a drying towel.
 


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Orange
HA!
This is my 'standard operating procedure' for washing my ride, and the ONLY way I am able to wash it AT ALL except for going to a drive through car wash, which I refuse to do since I HATE swirl marks and scratches.

The only difference is mine must then stay outside overnight (WTF is a garage?!? LOL), so I dry it off in the AM, and either wax, or detail spray it before the sun hits it, in order to prevent streaks.
A garage is something attached to a house, which becomes attached to your bank account for, oh, say thirty years. Which is one of the reasons I'm still driving a now nine-year-old Fiesta instead of something newer and cooler. I refuse to use the drive-through automatic car washes. I have a coin spray wash down the street from me with the stalls that you pull in and use a wand to wash. I don't like to use the soap in those washes because I assume they'll strip whatever wax protection I have on the car. My method (when it's not raining) is if my car is just dusty, stop at the spray wash and use the rinse and then spot-free , then race home, blow-drying most of the water by the time I get into the garage. Then hit the car with spray wax while I finish drying. Clean and quick!
 


M-Sport fan

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A garage is something attached to a house, which becomes attached to your bank account for, oh, say thirty years. Which is one of the reasons I'm still driving a now nine-year-old Fiesta instead of something newer and cooler. I refuse to use the drive-through automatic car washes. I have a coin spray wash down the street from me with the stalls that you pull in and use a wand to wash. I don't like to use the soap in those washes because I assume they'll strip whatever wax protection I have on the car. My method (when it's not raining) is if my car is just dusty, stop at the spray wash and use the rinse and then spot-free , then race home, blow-drying most of the water by the time I get into the garage. Then hit the car with spray wax while I finish drying. Clean and quick!
I don't like the stall/coin washes (the closest one to me is almost 15 miles away anyway) because then I must schlep the bucket, wash, and all of the drying crap with me, and by the time I pay for the amount of use, between initial rinse, filling the bucket(s), etc., it is almost as costly as just paying that same facility to do their hand wash ($35.00).

This place's wall panel controls do not have any 'pause' function (the clock is ALWAYS ticking, even if no water is expelled from the wand), and the 3 minutes they give you for $5.00 worth of quarters burns up very quickly! [mad]

So, I just wait until it is going to be raining at least 0.4"/hour, and do the 'natural home wash' thing. [wink]
(YES, I know that in Cali, at least until recently, that would be a lifetime long 'wait' for said precip to fall from the skies!)
 


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I don't like the stall/coin washes (the closest one to me is almost 15 miles away anyway) because then I must schlep the bucket, wash, and all of the drying crap with me, and by the time I pay for the amount of use, between initial rinse, filling the bucket(s), etc., it is almost as costly as just paying that same facility to do their hand wash ($35.00).

This place's wall panel controls do not have any 'pause' function (the clock is ALWAYS ticking, even if no water is expelled from the wand), and the 3 minutes they give you for $5.00 worth of quarters burns up very quickly! [mad]

So, I just wait until it is going to be raining at least 0.4"/hour, and do the 'natural home wash' thing. [wink]
(YES, I know that in Cali, at least until recently, that would be a lifetime long 'wait' for said precip to fall from the skies!)
Huh. They must do the stall/coin wash places differently where you are. Out here, ya put your coins in, use the spray wand and the brush (dear Lord, keep that brush away from my car!!), rinse, and get out. I think if you pulled out a bucket and started sponge washing, or sat around in the stall to dry your car once your time is done, you'd get shot by the guy waiting to use it next, or he'd just push you out of the way.

Yeah... about that waiting for precipitation thing... the storm let up just long enough for me to go for a walk around my office. Been using my wife's CRV and it's nice, tall tires for the commute in the rain. The roads are cratered with new potholes. Gonna give the roads a long time to dry out before I roll the ST out of the garage. I bent one of my EAP 15-spokes on this street a few years ago right before the supply of them dried up and I was able to snag a replacement. Don't want to damage another one now that they're gone!




IMG_1392.jpg
 


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Indianapolis, IN, USA
Finally got a pair of B6s to replace the rear B4s. Looking to soften the damping and hopefully reduce bouncing on highway expansion joints. We’ll see how it does tomorrow on the commute… View attachment 59979
Alas, the B6s where not the panacea I'd hoped for. It rides better on local roads, but still porpoises like a 2022 AMG F1 car on the expansion joints. If anything, it's worse with the B6s compared to the B4s.

My options now appear to be:
1. Put B6s up front as well and hope that balances the damping of the car.
2. Change to 2016+ springs in the rear to soften the spring rate.
3. Try an adjustable rear shock like the Koni Yellows.
4. Go nuclear and get a 10th gen Civic Sport hatch 6MT

Thoughts?
 


Messages
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Morris, CT, USA
Alas, the B6s where not the panacea I'd hoped for. It rides better on local roads, but still porpoises like a 2022 AMG F1 car on the expansion joints. If anything, it's worse with the B6s compared to the B4s.

My options now appear to be:
1. Put B6s up front as well and hope that balances the damping of the car.
2. Change to 2016+ springs in the rear to soften the spring rate.
3. Try an adjustable rear shock like the Koni Yellows.
4. Go nuclear and get a 10th gen Civic Sport hatch 6MT

Thoughts?
I’ve had B6’s with swift spec r springs and have been more than happy with them. Ive yet to try them on the track but on the street this setup feels amazing on the twisty mountain roads too and from work. I also run 15” wheels with a tire size that makes them damn close to the stock 17’s with tires on them which i feel definitely helped cushion up the ride a little.
 


dhminer

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Burlington, NC, USA
Alas, the B6s where not the panacea I'd hoped for. It rides better on local roads, but still porpoises like a 2022 AMG F1 car on the expansion joints. If anything, it's worse with the B6s compared to the B4s.

My options now appear to be:
1. Put B6s up front as well and hope that balances the damping of the car.
2. Change to 2016+ springs in the rear to soften the spring rate.
3. Try an adjustable rear shock like the Koni Yellows.
4. Go nuclear and get a 10th gen Civic Sport hatch 6MT

Thoughts?
You could always put fiesta se suspension but not sure why you would
 


akiraproject24

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With temps in mid to upper 50s, after dropping a set of Showa suspension on my Honda I decided to pull the Fist out of storage and put some miles on it. Was nice driving it, been since...November I think. As long as it doesnt rain going to try and put some more miles on and put fresh gas in the tank. Even in the 50s that poly motor mount vibrates like a mofo till the DP warms it up.
 


M-Sport fan

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Princeton, N.J.
FINALLY did an oil/filter change after 14 months since the last one (but only about 5500 miles or so).

Trying out some of LiquiMoly's Molygen 5W-20 (for the winter/early spring) this go-round, along with my usual, trusty Fram ULTRA 3600 L-O-N-G filter.

Since I must worry about a Gestapo-like HOA fining the bejeebus out of me if I get caught doing this, I did the whole thing without putting the car up on jack stands, or even using a jack, at all!

I drained it the night before, in the dark by just reaching under the air deflector, and removing the drain bolt with the car on the ground, using a lower profile catch pan (see. a factory ride height car has some advantages, as I would NOT have been able to do this on a slammed ride!).

Let it drain for 4 hours, and buttoned it up, and poured the used oil into containers/cleaned this up at 3:00 AM when everyone was fast asleep, so they could not rat on me to the HOA.

Then in the AM, when less residents are here, I did the filter, which took me a solid 3+hours to accomplish, due to my hands being way too large to fit in between all of the lines, fittings, radiator shroud, etc. on the front intake side of our ride, and the filter being almost 'welded' onto the oil cooler face (and YES, I ALWAYS coat the gasket in clean oil every time!!), and not being able to fit any removal tools into that non-existent space. [mad]

I finally got it to budge, and then loosened it to the point of just before it leaks, and then hit the ground to blindly reach under the bumper/deflector and take it off while trying to spill as little as possible.

As a result of the above method, my hands and forearms look like I went 100 rounds with a rabid, vicious Wolverine on meth! LOL

Yup, way too much of an ordeal for such a simple task, especially at almost 70 years of age, and paying for it with pain for days afterwards.

Next time I will find a shop that will do this chore using MY supplied products, and I will just have to overcome my OCD due to them putting the pan drain bolt back in while the dirty oil is still pouring out, since to them 'time is money', and doing the job correctly be DAMNED. [:(]
 


Ford ST

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Pleasant Garden
FINALLY did an oil/filter change after 14 months since the last one (but only about 5500 miles or so).

Trying out some of LiquiMoly's Molygen 5W-20 (for the winter/early spring) this go-round, along with my usual, trusty Fram ULTRA 3600 L-O-N-G filter.

Since I must worry about a Gestapo-like HOA fining the bejeebus out of me if I get caught doing this, I did the whole thing without putting the car up on jack stands, or even using a jack, at all!

I drained it the night before, in the dark by just reaching under the air deflector, and removing the drain bolt with the car on the ground, using a lower profile catch pan (see. a factory ride height car has some advantages, as I would NOT have been able to do this on a slammed ride!).

Let it drain for 4 hours, and buttoned it up, and poured the used oil into containers/cleaned this up at 3:00 AM when everyone was fast asleep, so they could not rat on me to the HOA.

Then in the AM, when less residents are here, I did the filter, which took me a solid 3+hours to accomplish, due to my hands being way too large to fit in between all of the lines, fittings, radiator shroud, etc. on the front intake side of our ride, and the filter being almost 'welded' onto the oil cooler face (and YES, I ALWAYS coat the gasket in clean oil every time!!), and not being able to fit any removal tools into that non-existent space. [mad]

I finally got it to budge, and then loosened it to the point of just before it leaks, and then hit the ground to blindly reach under the bumper/deflector and take it off while trying to spill as little as possible.

As a result of the above method, my hands and forearms look like I went 100 rounds with a rabid, vicious Wolverine on meth! LOL

Yup, way too much of an ordeal for such a simple task, especially at almost 70 years of age, and paying for it with pain for days afterwards.

Next time I will find a shop that will do this chore using MY supplied products, and I will just have to overcome my OCD due to them putting the pan drain bolt back in while the dirty oil is still pouring out, since to them 'time is money', and doing the job correctly be DAMNED. [:(]
I know this may sound crazy, but back in 2012 I got paid $4 yes $4 to do a oil change on a car. I would let you do it at my house if you lived near. Heck I spill oil in the driveway everytime anyway.
 


FiestaSTdude

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Cary, NC
FINALLY did an oil/filter change after 14 months since the last one (but only about 5500 miles or so).

Trying out some of LiquiMoly's Molygen 5W-20 (for the winter/early spring) this go-round, along with my usual, trusty Fram ULTRA 3600 L-O-N-G filter.

Since I must worry about a Gestapo-like HOA fining the bejeebus out of me if I get caught doing this, I did the whole thing without putting the car up on jack stands, or even using a jack, at all!

I drained it the night before, in the dark by just reaching under the air deflector, and removing the drain bolt with the car on the ground, using a lower profile catch pan (see. a factory ride height car has some advantages, as I would NOT have been able to do this on a slammed ride!).

Let it drain for 4 hours, and buttoned it up, and poured the used oil into containers/cleaned this up at 3:00 AM when everyone was fast asleep, so they could not rat on me to the HOA.

Then in the AM, when less residents are here, I did the filter, which took me a solid 3+hours to accomplish, due to my hands being way too large to fit in between all of the lines, fittings, radiator shroud, etc. on the front intake side of our ride, and the filter being almost 'welded' onto the oil cooler face (and YES, I ALWAYS coat the gasket in clean oil every time!!), and not being able to fit any removal tools into that non-existent space. [mad]

I finally got it to budge, and then loosened it to the point of just before it leaks, and then hit the ground to blindly reach under the bumper/deflector and take it off while trying to spill as little as possible.

As a result of the above method, my hands and forearms look like I went 100 rounds with a rabid, vicious Wolverine on meth! LOL

Yup, way too much of an ordeal for such a simple task, especially at almost 70 years of age, and paying for it with pain for days afterwards.

Next time I will find a shop that will do this chore using MY supplied products, and I will just have to overcome my OCD due to them putting the pan drain bolt back in while the dirty oil is still pouring out, since to them 'time is money', and doing the job correctly be DAMNED. [:(]
Wow, that sucks that your neighborhood gives you such a hard time that you have to not use a jack! I wish you lived in my neighborhood, my buddy just pulled out an engine in my driveway
 


M-Sport fan

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Wow, that sucks that your neighborhood gives you such a hard time that you have to not use a jack! I wish you lived in my neighborhood, my buddy just pulled out an engine in my driveway
Technically, I am not allowed to do even what I did (and am paying for it in muscle strain and soreness from the insane arm/shoulder angles I had to apply force to everything from). [mad]

But, doing it mostly at night (the sump drain part anyway), and NOT having it up on very conspicuous jack & jack stands, which everyone notices, helps me get away with this procedure.
(IF confronted, I could always claim that I was just on the ground checking for/correcting leaks in order to prevent oil stains and puddles. [wink])
 


Last edited:

akiraproject24

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Technically, I am not allowed to do even what I did (and am paying for in muscle strain and soreness from the insane arm/shoulder angles I had to apply force to everything from). [mad]

But, doing it mostly at night (the sump drain part anyway), and NOT having it up on very conspicuous jack & jack stands, which everyone notices, helps me get away with this procedure.
(IF confronted, I could always claim that I was just on the ground checking for/correcting leaks in order to prevent oil stains and puddles. [wink])
My HOA doesnt allow vehicle maintenance either but I just do it. They havent cited me yet. If they do Im gonna burn my house down and live in a van...down by the river. Most likely on a diet of government cheese.

These HOAs have purpose but the boards are like commies...they get a taste for power and need to be reminded who they are working for.
 




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