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What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?

felopr

Senior Member
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JD
I havent really done this today but has been like a couple of days project
who here thinks rally armor mudflaps front bracket sucks with the bolt solder on the bracket? i do, so modified my and ended up like this
1700939338369.png
what i did was:
1) got the bracket with the 2 solder bolts and grid them out then make a hole the same diameter as the bolt that was solder in in the same location (no pictures of this sorry)
2) bought this from autozone
1700939538099.png
3) cut the thing that has the thread from the part that doesnt have a thread from the u-nut, like this:
1700939688216.png
4) hammer the part to make it flat and made it like this:
1700939756265.png 1700939768484.png
5) crazy glue that part to the bracket so it stays in place and you just install the mudflap like usual
been a week since i did this and the installation has been solid, hasn't loosen at all
 


felopr

Senior Member
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JD
Got infamous p0016* car runs fine. Vct-i and Vct-e reading are off/ not correct. Just a Tad over 100k ..BT DHM360R...4-port Aux...Getting Fomoco timing belt kit by a Fomoco Tech. He agreed and said he has seen the belts skip or jump....But not often. FeloPr had the p0017 and encountered a similar issue. Replaced Timing belt with the fomoco kit. Rums like a Top. So I will say this....Do not believe in 10yrs 150k. This reminds me of their claim of "lifetime" Trans fluid in some of their vehicles a while back. Over 100k people....Get it done and chill on performance parts for bit. View attachment 59216
i did told you it would probably jumped a tooth or a sensor was bad
Glad you got it fixed
 


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Location
Houston
I've had the K&N on my car since new. Only cleaned and oiled it twice in 106,000 miles with NO problems.
I mean like I said it’s all conjecture on YT. Still, a dry filter eliminates those possibilities. I’ll send my oil into Blackstone next change and see whether silica is present.
 


Intuit

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South West Ohio
I sure would* I'm almost double stock HP...So to those who are riding the lightning also....Id suggest getting it done sooner than later and NOT FOLLOWING fomoco recommend mait. Schedule. F-that noise.
If that 1.6L were in an Escape on an automatic, it probably would easily make the 10y/150k spec; and that may be what it's based around. Vehicles used to carry two specs; one for 'heavy duty' and normal use but they no longer seem to do that even for oil changes. I used to skip/strip teeth well before spec with my prior vehicle and I think it's just related to it being an aggressively driven manual shift. The first T-Belt lasted the spec, but none of the following did. (roughly 80% of spec) So I think it's good advice not to wait until 150. If you're really running nearly 400HP then I'd say maybe a quarter of that spec; maybe just 40 or 50k. I suspect it's merely the "rate" of inertial changes and "jerking" when on/off the accelerator that stresses the belt because it's not like they're experiencing more load when turning at 300 vs 200HP.
 


XR650R

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Eerie
Installed my Spec D’s and I am pretty happy with them.
I reoiled my K&N filter; the instructions didn’t specify whether to oil both sides just that to spray on the crown of each pleat. So I did- on both sides. Something about it didn’t seem right so I did some research- I over oiled it. They recommend to oil only the receiving side. Glad I only drove it once but now I have to rewash and reoil it. That said I’ve seen a few videos about K&N being poor at filtration so I’m on the fence on whether to toss it completely.
View attachment 59209
The #1 thing people do wrong with K&N filters is that they over-oil them.
They sell you a massive can of oil, so you think you should use a lot. Don't.
You barely need any.
It's also important to clean it well and give it a day to air-dry. You want to start with a clean, dry filter.
Spray it lightly from the top. Let it sit another day so the oil permeates the cotton. Use your stock filter if you need to drive it in the meantime.
 


akiraproject24

1000 Post Club
U.S. Marine Veteran
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Garaged for the winter. Going to use the winter to consider KW V1 or Fortune 500. I dont need the adjustability of the Fortune but I like the Hyperco spring option and overall quality. The KW reuses the factory top mount which I actually think would make me happy from a noise and NVH standpoint. I have until April to dig into this.
Managed to get about 1100ish miles since my Whoosh hybrid install....also got the oil change done.
Resized_2.jpg
 


Messages
61
Likes
47
Location
Houston
Garaged for the winter. Going to use the winter to consider KW V1 or Fortune 500. I dont need the adjustability of the Fortune but I like the Hyperco spring option and overall quality. The KW reuses the factory top mount which I actually think would make me happy from a noise and NVH standpoint. I have until April to dig into this.
Managed to get about 1100ish miles since my Whoosh hybrid install....also got the oil change done.
View attachment 59226
How are you liking the Whoosh hybrid? I’ve been back and forth between buying it or the S280.
 


Intuit

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I sure would* I'm almost double stock HP...So to those who are riding the lightning also....Id suggest getting it done sooner than later and NOT FOLLOWING fomoco recommend mait. Schedule. F-that noise.
If that 1.6L were in an Escape on an automatic, it probably would easily make the 10y/150k spec; and that may be what it's based around. Vehicles used to carry two specs; one for 'heavy duty' and normal use but they no longer seem to do that even for oil changes. I used to skip/strip teeth well before spec with my prior vehicle and I think it's just related to it being an aggressively driven manual shift. The first T-Belt lasted the spec, but none of the following did. (roughly 80% of spec) So I think it's good advice not to wait until 150. If you're really running nearly 400HP then I'd say maybe a quarter of that spec; maybe just 40 or 50k. I suspect it's merely the "rate" of inertial changes and "jerking" when on/off the accelerator that stresses the belt because it's not like they're experiencing more load when turning at 300 vs 200HP.
One other point is, how many nearly 400HP engines are running a belt instead of a chain? You did great to get what you did out of it; even though you've only been running 250-400HP relatively recently.
 


akiraproject24

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How are you liking the Whoosh hybrid? I’ve been back and forth between buying it or the S280.
I love it so far. I expected a bit more on E30 with it. The 93 tune that I did first was a huge improvement over the stock turbo. When I went to E30, the butt dyno didnt notice a whole lot of difference though. I think on E30 I noticed a bit more smoothness to the power but even that is a BIG maybe. Ive never experienced an S280 so I cant compare to that. I mostly take it out for joy rides when Im not at work but I have commuted it to work as well and I actually improved gas mileage at least on 93. It has a distinct whistle sound under load that levels off. Mine might be more audible because of the Cobb intake I have on it.
 


akiraproject24

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View attachment 59230 Picked up a mountune short shift on Black Friday. Been wanting it for a while but never picked it up. The whoosh one is great, but I wanted to try out the 30% reduction. Also snagged it because I was afraid mountune will discontinue it soon lol
That one was suggested to me for subtle reasons when I inititially got on here and started asking questions and researching. Something about the angle geometry it has on the cables. Anyhow good choice.
 


M-Sport fan

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View attachment 59230 Picked up a mountune short shift on Black Friday. Been wanting it for a while but never picked it up. The whoosh one is great, but I wanted to try out the 30% reduction. Also snagged it because I was afraid mountune will discontinue it soon lol
A little bit of a pain to install, but WELL worth it once done!

Mine has been in the car for almost 7 years and 35K miles, and with that 30% reduction, I do not have any desire for either the Boomba interior shifter, or the Coolerworx, as this is smooth and reliable with no 'notchiness', or glitches, at all. [wink] [thumb]
 


Last edited:
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Ontario, CA, USA
A little bit of a pain to install, but WELL worth it once done!

Mine has been in the car for almost 7 years and 35K miles, and with that 30% reduction, I do not have any desire for with the Boomba interior shifter, or the Coolerworx, as this is smooth and reliable with no 'notchiness', or glitches, at all. [wink] [thumb]
I also picked it up because I was reading on how the coolerworx shifter seem to have their share of problems, I was interested in it at one point. I also already have the solid bracket and base bushings, should be fun
 


M-Sport fan

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I havent really done this today but has been like a couple of days project
who here thinks rally armor mudflaps front bracket sucks with the bolt solder on the bracket? i do, so modified my and ended up like this
View attachment 59217
what i did was:
1) got the bracket with the 2 solder bolts and grid them out then make a hole the same diameter as the bolt that was solder in in the same location (no pictures of this sorry)
2) bought this from autozone
View attachment 59218
3) cut the thing that has the thread from the part that doesnt have a thread from the u-nut, like this:
View attachment 59219
4) hammer the part to make it flat and made it like this:
View attachment 59220 View attachment 59221
5) crazy glue that part to the bracket so it stays in place and you just install the mudflap like usual
been a week since i did this and the installation has been solid, hasn't loosen at all
I cannot stand RallyArmor's mounting technique AT ALL, and currently have mine uninstalled (the front mounting points rubbed against 205/50-16 Neo Gens on Dekagrams, even at full factory ride height!).

If I ever get around to reinstalling flaps, I will just use the pop rivet mounting method that BRGT350 used to mount his Sparco flaps many, many years ago.

But your mod above to the RA mounts would solve any rubbing problems if one was hellbent on retaining the rest of that kit's mounting hardware. [thumb]
 


FiestaSTdude

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Towed it home from the Tennessee border because my alternator died 4 hours away from home and no auto parts stores in the mountains carry in on the store. Between renting a U-Haul truck and trailer and buying the new alternator this is going to be an $800 alternator job.
First time towing my car, everything went fairly smoothly although the fiesta being lowered made it a pain to get on the trailer.
IMG_0488.jpeg
 


TyphoonFiST

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Been BT since like 46k* just got the car back. Runs like a Top. It was the timing belt tensioner. It had hardly any spring tension left. Back in business boys!
One other point is, how many nearly 400HP engines are running a belt instead of a chain? You did great to get what you did out of it; even though you've only been running 250-400HP relatively recently.
 


TyphoonFiST

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A little bit of a pain to install, but WELL worth it once done!

Mine has been in the car for almost 7 years and 35K miles, and with that 30% reduction, I do not have any desire for either the Boomba interior shifter, or the Coolerworx, as this is smooth and reliable with no 'notchiness', or glitches, at all. [wink] [thumb]
I've had all 3 styles now* The Whoosh version...The Mountune version and now the Boomba shifter assembly. Out of all 3 the Boomba is the best IMO. The install wasn't too hard but if i ever wanna revert to stock it'll be easier. The Mountune is the best out of all the adapters though and the most smooth operating by far.[driving]
 




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