• Sign Up! To view all forums and unlock additional cool features

    Welcome to the #1 Fiesta ST Forum and Fiesta ST community dedicated to Fiesta ST owners and enthusiasts. Register for an account, it's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Fiesta ST Forum today!


What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?

Bull Run

Member
U.S. Army Veteran
Messages
246
Likes
404
Location
Chandler, AZ, USA
Changed the driver's side seat to a lightweight racing seat recently. Planning on doing the same for the passenger side so I conducted an experiment to see what's the easiest and cheapest way to do so without triggering the dreaded airbag light.

Conditions:
  • Avoid tearing apart the Recaro passenger seat for the passenger occupancy sensor and bag in case I want to swap back or sell the seat later
  • Avoid buying a new sensor and bag as cheapest I found online was $260
Found passenger seat occupancy sensor emulator online but none that'll work with the Fiesta. However, I found a used sensor (part #G2BB-603B16-AA ) without the bag for around $70, so purchased it to see if I can make my own simulator.

I took the passenger seat out and put the seat wiring back on with the crash sensor, 2.2 ohms resister for the airbag, and passenger seat occupancy sensor as pictured below. My inital thought was that, without the bag, the Restraint Control Module (RCM), will think that no one's sitting in the seat, but otherwise everything's fine.
1698716156386.jpeg

I turned the car on after connecting the wiring to the seat harness on the floor. I saw both the airbag light and "PASS AIRBAG OFF" lights on, so something definitely wasn't right.
1698716426173.jpeg 1698716446685.jpeg

Hooked up Forscan and found four errors, two related to the "Passenger Seatbelt Sensor" and two for "Occupant Classification System (OCS)". Seatbelt sensor was easy enough to resolve as I only needed to connect the seatbelt buckle. OCS fault was different as the second error for it mentions "low fluid level". I did not realized that the sensor was sensitive enough to detect that there's less volume of "bag fluid" pressing down on it even without a passenger. Tried OCS system reset and recalibration to see if I can fool the RCM to think that reduced fluid volume is the new "normal" but the procedure will not proceed with the error code present. So no, you cannot calibrate your way out of the "low fluid level" error.
1698716637753.png 1698716710538.png 1698717636301.png

To get around this, I bent the tubing with my fingers and kept pressure on it while power cycling the car. Airbag and "PASS AIRBAG OFF" lights stayed off and seat belt reminder came on. So there was enough pressure for the sensor for RCM to think that there was plenty of fluid with a passenger in the seat. I tied the tubing and held it in place with a couple of zip ties, which essentially turned the senor into a passenger occupancy emulator. Took care of the seatbelt minder light by plugging in a seatbelt extender.
1698717067542.jpeg 1698717093054.jpeg 1698716941070.jpeg

For the next phase of this experiment, I found that used Ford Ecosport occupancy sensors with bags can be had for less than $50. Sensor connector looked the same in the picture so I bought one to try and should be arriving this Friday. The bag seems smaller, so it may be easier to place in aftermarket seats.
1698717865742.png
 


M-Sport fan

9000 Post Club
Messages
14,425
Likes
6,975
Location
Princeton, N.J.
^^That stuff is fairly viscous.

Does it stay that hot right through the winter there??
(Or are you running a BT on a high boost tune, and your tuner suggested that weight? I forgot what mods you have currently.)
 


Intuit

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,900
Likes
2,439
Location
South West Ohio
^^That stuff is fairly viscous.

Does it stay that hot right through the winter there??
(Or are you running a BT on a high boost tune, and your tuner suggested that weight? I forgot what mods you have currently.)
Guess I'm not the only one who notices that the numbers on the bottle aren't everything. Noticed decades ago rubbing some fresh oils between my fingers, same numbers on the bottle, there are some brands that seem like water compared to other brands.
 


Messages
426
Likes
715
Location
Ontario, CA, USA
^^That stuff is fairly viscous.

Does it stay that hot right through the winter there??
(Or are you running a BT on a high boost tune, and your tuner suggested that weight? I forgot what mods you have currently.)
I wanted to give it a try and wanted to do a lab analysis when I drain it. And currently S280 on a ethanol map pushing almost 29 PSI lol
 


M-Sport fan

9000 Post Club
Messages
14,425
Likes
6,975
Location
Princeton, N.J.
I wanted to give it a try and wanted to do a lab analysis when I drain it. And currently S280 on a ethanol map pushing almost 29 PSI lol
GOT IT! [thumb]

Given that many in the Scoobie crew run the even thicker yet Rotella 5W-40 (and other even actually thicker than that oil in measured viscosity/HTHS numbers, labeled 5W-40s, like Motul 300V), and your locale, yes, you should be just fine.
 


M-Sport fan

9000 Post Club
Messages
14,425
Likes
6,975
Location
Princeton, N.J.
Guess I'm not the only one who notices that the numbers on the bottle aren't everything. Noticed decades ago rubbing some fresh oils between my fingers, same numbers on the bottle, there are some brands that seem like water compared to other brands.
The API and SAE give the manufacturers a HUGE range of actual measured viscosity to still be labeled within a given stated 'weight' on the bottle. [wink]
 


Messages
426
Likes
715
Location
Ontario, CA, USA
GOT IT! [thumb]

Given that many in the Scoobie crew run the even thicker yet Rotella 5W-40 (and other even actually thicker than that oil in measured viscosity/HTHS numbers, labeled 5W-40s, like Motul 300V), and your locale, yes, you should be just fine.
I was looking at the kinematic viscosity numbers and it does seem this one is thicker than the other 5W40/0W40’s on the market. I also don’t drive the ST that much and pretty short trips, 10-15 minutes. Car does get to operating temperature. I was curious to see if the oil gets diluted more due to that. Lab testing coming soon lol
 


Intuit

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,900
Likes
2,439
Location
South West Ohio
The API and SAE give the manufacturers a HUGE range of actual measured viscosity to still be labeled within a given stated 'weight' on the bottle. [wink]
Interesting. I've never been a BITOG guy but, where does Castrol's standard Edge line API-SN fall in the spectrum? (not the "high mileage" or other stuffs)
 


M-Sport fan

9000 Post Club
Messages
14,425
Likes
6,975
Location
Princeton, N.J.
Interesting. I've never been a BITOG guy but, where does Castrol's standard Edge line API-SN fall in the spectrum? (not the "high mileage" or other stuffs)
I am not sure, since I have not looked recently, but it IS great oil regardless.
It's the 'on the shelf at Wally World' stuff I would use (the gold bottle 'Extended Performance' stuff) if I were not going with a 'boutique' oil (Ravenol, LiquiMoly, Amsoil, etc.).

BTW; I am no longer on BITOG anymore as they as a majority on there (including the moderators) have become, how can I put this, way WAY too 'political', and quite vitriolic, and bombastically vehement about it as well. [:(] [thumbdown][thumbdown]
 


Messages
286
Likes
343
Location
Morris, CT, USA
Got the correct hose from Radium the other day in the mail (Great customer service greatly appreciated) so I finished the install of both the crank case and pcv side. With that I installed a pro alloy coolant reservoir. Once I figured out how to position that without interference with the pcv catch can lines it wasn’t a bad install. I had to slightly modify the reservoir mount closest to the front of the car (sloted the mounting hole) in order for everything to be happy. Also got the whoosh crossover pipe installed along with the st200 airbox. Just fitted the velossa tech big mouth sucker v4 for now. Cant install that till I get the rest of the front end back on. Coming close to finishing this long overdrawn build.😎
 


Attachments

Messages
426
Likes
715
Location
Ontario, CA, USA
Got the correct hose from Radium the other day in the mail (Great customer service greatly appreciated) so I finished the install of both the crank case and pcv side. With that I installed a pro alloy coolant reservoir. Once I figured out how to position that without interference with the pcv catch can lines it wasn’t a bad install. I had to slightly modify the reservoir mount closest to the front of the car (sloted the mounting hole) in order for everything to be happy. Also got the whoosh crossover pipe installed along with the st200 airbox. Just fitted the velossa tech big mouth sucker v4 for now. Cant install that till I get the rest of the front end back on. Coming close to finishing this long overdrawn build.😎
Will the ECU cover go back on? I was intrested in the crankcase pcv can but I have a ethanol sensor bolted to the ECU cover (Dizzy kit) and I don’t think I can use that catch can anymore lol
 


Messages
286
Likes
343
Location
Morris, CT, USA
Will the ECU cover go back on? I was intrested in the crankcase pcv can but I have a ethanol sensor bolted to the ECU cover (Dizzy kit) and I don’t think I can use that catch can anymore lol
If you look closely at the last picture it indeed does fit back on but its a very tight squeez. Once back in there’s no interference.
 


Messages
152
Likes
141
Location
Montreal
Cleaning out my intake valves as I posted on another threadI was having intermittent misfires at idle that were starting to become constant. Maybe this was the culprit 68k miles and been running a dammond catch can since 2020. I did switch to the revised mishimoto a little over a year ago. View attachment 58746 View attachment 58768 View attachment 58770
Maybe I missed something, is the Dammond catch can not advised anymore?
 


Messages
286
Likes
343
Location
Morris, CT, USA
Maybe I missed something, is the Dammond catch can not advised anymore?
Not necessarily. I had a diamond catch can originally but it vented to atmosphere which is a no no for some of the tracks around here as the Radium is not vented its a closed system which is why I made the switch. Ill have my old catch can available on here for sale soon.
 


M-Sport fan

9000 Post Club
Messages
14,425
Likes
6,975
Location
Princeton, N.J.
Maybe I missed something, is the Dammond catch can not advised anymore?
Some prefer the other ones due to aftermarket part fitting interference, the Damond being a bit harder to drain (or at least get to the drain valve on the bottom of the can), or just brand preference. [wink]

I still have, and love, my Damond OCC.
 


M-Sport fan

9000 Post Club
Messages
14,425
Likes
6,975
Location
Princeton, N.J.
Not necessarily. I had a diamond catch can originally but it vented to atmosphere which is a no no for some of the tracks around here as the Radium is not vented its a closed system which is why I made the switch. Ill have my old catch can available on here for sale soon.
It does not have to be VTA, if you do not install the open filter/one way valve assembly on top.

Mine is sealed.
 




Top