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Step colder plugs, Woosh shifter bracket bushings, dizzy stage 1 tune, quick drive to see how the tune felt, then a long overdue wash.
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For me, the only hard part was getting the spring collars to move when getting the cables off the bracket. Lots of twisting and pulling required before they would budge, but ymmv. Even so, took me about 45 minutes start to finish.
Hell yeah, you have it in a great place right now. I'm back on my AdaptX tune for a tank but I'm just looking for excuses to burn through it so I can get back to my ethanol tune from Dizzy.
Maybe the smoked mirror signals next to really keep it OEM+
I’m really happy with it right now - I’ve been taking my time doing basic maintenance and fixing things that I didn’t like (bought used and slightly modified). I think it’s to a baseline now where I can decide what I eventually want the car to be. The dizzy tune is a huge improvement, but I’m looking forward to seeing what happens when I switch to e30.
Got down to a 1/4 tank of 93 and just threw a few gallons of ethanol in and flashed back to my E30 tune with a higher threshold for pops. I already prefer Dizzy’s low pops but now with the Mountune exhaust 4000 RPM as the requested threshold feels just right. I preferred the default threshold on the full stock system but now it’s at such a mild and fun level all around. I’m surprised at how much I missed them over the course of a few days hahaa!
Help! Had my A/P checked and it's clear in the Readiness Dept except for the evac system. No codes showing. Service Mngr at the dealership said I might have to do 200 miles with no stops and my mechanic said the same thing. Anyone out there have any different takes on this.?
Help! Had my A/P checked and it's clear in the Readiness Dept except for the evac system. No codes showing. Service Mngr at the dealership said I might have to do 200 miles with no stops and my mechanic said the same thing. Anyone out there have any different takes on this.?
That's what they tell me. I can go PS, SD or SB which will give the required mileage. Further info, there is NO CEL showing. It's only on the A/P Readiness.
I'm not sure if related, but when I had my SES and replaced the cat, I had to reset a permanent code that was stored (can't be done with a reader) so I followed this procedure:
Typically, this Universal Trip Drive Pattern starts off by clearing all the DTCs so that only the Permanent DTC remains (always refer to service information for applicable information and procedures).
Then turn the ignition ON, start the vehicle and let it idle for at least 30 seconds. Then, without cycling the key, drive the vehicle for at least five minutes at more than 40 km/h. Then (again without cycling the key) let the vehicle idle for at least 30 seconds before shutting it OFF. The whole drive cycle must take at least 10 minutes. After performing a Universal Trip Drive Pattern, the computer clears the code, since it’s “seen” that the problem is fixed and not reoccurring. Sounds simple enough, and most problems have apparently come from not performing the Universal Trip Drive Pattern correctly, but time will tell if these new DTCs will be problematic.
Called and spoke to COBB but they were unable to give me any points but agreed with the mileage thing. 35mph on a straight road and then 60mph on a fwy on cruise control. I still have 3 weeks to find the solution.
Visited the smog station and he checked to see if it would pass before the actual test. It showed the problem and then we did the test and it passed! Obviously not a big enough problem to fail it!
Finally got my RT660's on. Of course it's the end of summer. They felt great compared to the neo gens I still had on. So much less spin and screaming. They feel a little squishier somehow. They just paved a section of some of the twistiest road in the area so perfect timing.
Continued pulling my car apart. Pistons are not pushing evenly on the same side on my calipers. Is this due to not enough fluid or not beld correctly or something?
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