Well again.....I dont think anyone has done a complete mount Install DIY. Bare with me as I assemble this Via cell phone and computer.
Tools Required
Ratchet in 3/8 preferably with long handle
Sockets 10mm...15mm....18mm
Flathead screw driver
Pry bar of any kind
Low profile Jack....they are easier to deal with than normal size jacks....especially on a FIST with Aero. Also a wood block or A rubber Jack puck to cushion the point where you decide to start jacking the car up.
Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
Propane heater if you're doing this like me in the dead of winter. Buy one if you dont have one....they are so choice and portable. Disregard that POS bike...its not mine and should be thrown into the trash as my lazy sister in law can't fu$king even walk without tripping...none the less ride a bike.
Jack stands also...it makes things a Ton easier when jacking up the Engine or Trans to remove the mounts. I'd suggest also getting the Jack poly pinchweld protectors for the jackstands.
Remove the passengerside headlamp assembly in order to get at the motor mount nice and easy. Set aside somewhere safe so it doesnt get scratched or broken.
Now you can move the coolant reservoir out of the way paying close attention the the plastic line into the tank and not break it being a careless dingle berry.
This is where you can work smarter or not harder. I used my 1/2 cordless compact with a 15mm on the outside bolts and an 18mm on the engine side bolts. The top mount bolt is a 18 or 19mm. It will need to be removed as you will be using the aluminum mounting bracket with the new Motor mount.
Now you will mount the aluminum bracket to your new Vibrtechnics mount you can buy from Ron a whoosh. Install is loosely and DO NOT tighten any bolts down until you have it in the car and all lined up. I also took this opportunity to put antiseize on the Bolts that go into the Frame to make things easier in the Future if there ever is one....AOC says there won't be anything left in 12 years....but I'm not chancing it and may have to take it apart again for some odd reason.
Once the mount is in Tighten the engine side bolts to 35 Ft.lbs and the Engine side bracket nuts to 59 Ft.lbs. Now you are good to go....reinstall the coolant tank....headlamp assembly and take a break and chill with a doggo or friend if you have any and maybe a beer or a nespresso. I chose to break with my Meatball and have a Nespresso...They are awesome machines.....if you dont have one and drink coffee....GET ONE. You will thank me later....Keurigs blow Donkey's compared to the Nespresso...FYI.
Now comes the real Treat....I took the advice from a fellow member and started with the passenger side mount. Good idea...FYI. Now if your deep into modding like me...you have ALOT of Shit going or near the battery area... Start by removing the intake hose and unclip ping the Evap line. Taking the hose out makes things easier to maneuver out...like the GOD DAM batter tray with the ECM connected to it. Then depending on your intake you will remove the airbox...I have an ST200. So I yanked that out in order to remove the battery with ease as it's a 48 series not a 96.
Remove the battery....mine is a 48 series that fits like a glove with a modified battery tray. Take out the 3 bolts that are a 10mm that holds the tray into the mount bracket. You will also need to move the cover for the ECM which is a Plastic screw style push pin. Then unplug the ECM connectors....there are Qty2 . The ECM connectors are held in buy a lever on the top side and bottom side. They are Grey in color. Use a pick with a 45° point to pull the levers twords you to unplug them.
Now comes the TREAT.... fanaggling the battery tray out to get at the Mount. There are then 3 nuts you will have to be removed in order to get at the Trans. Mount. All are 10mm nuts also....I took the time to put antiseize on the studs also for ease of removal later. Pull up on the plate and use a pry bar or Impact gun to remove the 3 nuts and 2 bolts. Also again I put antiseize on the bolts also upon install. Install new Trans mount and torque the nuts to 92 Ft. Lbs and the Bolts to 66 Ft.lbs. NOW reinstall everything in reverse order.
The RMM one I didn't get pictures but I will update it tomorrow with the install and pics for that one also. But it's by far the easiest mount Ever....all needed is a pry bar...inverted Torx socket or 15mm socket Depending on which bolts you go from ferd to get the rear most bolt out and the one that goes into the transmission on the bottom that goes through the mount also! Loosen the top two also to allow the plate to move to make easier for install of the New RMM.
Here is the last of the mounts....this is the RMM with the 2 bolts and bolts with nuts. Depending on the RMM you may get a replacement bracket but with the Vibratechnics you will reuse your old mount bracket. You call loosen the top two nuts instead of removing them. But the bottom front and rear bolts will need to completely come out. Then after they are removed I used a pry bar to loosen/ wiggle the stock RMM. It will then just pull right out. Install your Vibratechnics RMM but make sure the alignment dowel in the mount lines up with the bracket hole at the bottom front bolt. All bolts will then be Torqued to 50Ft lbs. Now you have all your mounts installed.
Public service announcement....Mounts WILL break in overtime. DON'T just give in right away due to more NVH. Give it TIME! Soon they won't even be noticed.
Enjoy your New Vibratechnics Mounts from whoosh....prefect blend IMO of both worlds....Definitely stiffer but Not like a full poly mount that is stiffer than a board.
Tools Required
Ratchet in 3/8 preferably with long handle
Sockets 10mm...15mm....18mm
Flathead screw driver
Pry bar of any kind
Low profile Jack....they are easier to deal with than normal size jacks....especially on a FIST with Aero. Also a wood block or A rubber Jack puck to cushion the point where you decide to start jacking the car up.
Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
Propane heater if you're doing this like me in the dead of winter. Buy one if you dont have one....they are so choice and portable. Disregard that POS bike...its not mine and should be thrown into the trash as my lazy sister in law can't fu$king even walk without tripping...none the less ride a bike.
Jack stands also...it makes things a Ton easier when jacking up the Engine or Trans to remove the mounts. I'd suggest also getting the Jack poly pinchweld protectors for the jackstands.
Remove the passengerside headlamp assembly in order to get at the motor mount nice and easy. Set aside somewhere safe so it doesnt get scratched or broken.
Now you can move the coolant reservoir out of the way paying close attention the the plastic line into the tank and not break it being a careless dingle berry.
This is where you can work smarter or not harder. I used my 1/2 cordless compact with a 15mm on the outside bolts and an 18mm on the engine side bolts. The top mount bolt is a 18 or 19mm. It will need to be removed as you will be using the aluminum mounting bracket with the new Motor mount.
Now you will mount the aluminum bracket to your new Vibrtechnics mount you can buy from Ron a whoosh. Install is loosely and DO NOT tighten any bolts down until you have it in the car and all lined up. I also took this opportunity to put antiseize on the Bolts that go into the Frame to make things easier in the Future if there ever is one....AOC says there won't be anything left in 12 years....but I'm not chancing it and may have to take it apart again for some odd reason.
Once the mount is in Tighten the engine side bolts to 35 Ft.lbs and the Engine side bracket nuts to 59 Ft.lbs. Now you are good to go....reinstall the coolant tank....headlamp assembly and take a break and chill with a doggo or friend if you have any and maybe a beer or a nespresso. I chose to break with my Meatball and have a Nespresso...They are awesome machines.....if you dont have one and drink coffee....GET ONE. You will thank me later....Keurigs blow Donkey's compared to the Nespresso...FYI.
Now comes the real Treat....I took the advice from a fellow member and started with the passenger side mount. Good idea...FYI. Now if your deep into modding like me...you have ALOT of Shit going or near the battery area... Start by removing the intake hose and unclip ping the Evap line. Taking the hose out makes things easier to maneuver out...like the GOD DAM batter tray with the ECM connected to it. Then depending on your intake you will remove the airbox...I have an ST200. So I yanked that out in order to remove the battery with ease as it's a 48 series not a 96.
Remove the battery....mine is a 48 series that fits like a glove with a modified battery tray. Take out the 3 bolts that are a 10mm that holds the tray into the mount bracket. You will also need to move the cover for the ECM which is a Plastic screw style push pin. Then unplug the ECM connectors....there are Qty2 . The ECM connectors are held in buy a lever on the top side and bottom side. They are Grey in color. Use a pick with a 45° point to pull the levers twords you to unplug them.
Now comes the TREAT.... fanaggling the battery tray out to get at the Mount. There are then 3 nuts you will have to be removed in order to get at the Trans. Mount. All are 10mm nuts also....I took the time to put antiseize on the studs also for ease of removal later. Pull up on the plate and use a pry bar or Impact gun to remove the 3 nuts and 2 bolts. Also again I put antiseize on the bolts also upon install. Install new Trans mount and torque the nuts to 92 Ft. Lbs and the Bolts to 66 Ft.lbs. NOW reinstall everything in reverse order.
The RMM one I didn't get pictures but I will update it tomorrow with the install and pics for that one also. But it's by far the easiest mount Ever....all needed is a pry bar...inverted Torx socket or 15mm socket Depending on which bolts you go from ferd to get the rear most bolt out and the one that goes into the transmission on the bottom that goes through the mount also! Loosen the top two also to allow the plate to move to make easier for install of the New RMM.
Here is the last of the mounts....this is the RMM with the 2 bolts and bolts with nuts. Depending on the RMM you may get a replacement bracket but with the Vibratechnics you will reuse your old mount bracket. You call loosen the top two nuts instead of removing them. But the bottom front and rear bolts will need to completely come out. Then after they are removed I used a pry bar to loosen/ wiggle the stock RMM. It will then just pull right out. Install your Vibratechnics RMM but make sure the alignment dowel in the mount lines up with the bracket hole at the bottom front bolt. All bolts will then be Torqued to 50Ft lbs. Now you have all your mounts installed.
Public service announcement....Mounts WILL break in overtime. DON'T just give in right away due to more NVH. Give it TIME! Soon they won't even be noticed.
Enjoy your New Vibratechnics Mounts from whoosh....prefect blend IMO of both worlds....Definitely stiffer but Not like a full poly mount that is stiffer than a board.
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