Up for my first oil change should I take it to the dealer or do it myself ?

[M-Sport fan]

I'm not sure why it would void engine warranty. Good thread from SVTPerformance: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?1069354-What-s-the-deal-with-Red-Line-Oil

Those that speak seem very knowledgable with UOA results to back up there conclusions.

It's NOT the UOA results that would be the problem as I have no doubts on their wear protection/anti-friction capabilities (and even MORE SO their shear resistance and low NOACK numbers), it's the intake valve problems from high calcium content detergent pack oils.

But, IF they really cause No problems, I WILL use them (those three oils are ALL I ever used in my last car, along with the Millers NT racing oils).

 

[LilPartyBox]

I am also tempted to use those non-certified, high end 'boutique' oils in this car after initial break-in, warranty be damned, but, I would do a little more research on the fact that direct injected engines, ESPECIALLY boosted ones, do NOT 'like' high calcium and high SAPS oils, which includes all of the above.

I will probably do the first change at ~1500 miles, using Wal Mart bought Motorcraft blend, and a Motorcraft filter, and then at 5K miles change over to either; Motorcraft FULL synthetic (IF I can find it for less than ~$8.00/qt.), or Castrol or Mobil 1 EP full synthetics to retain the engine warranty (at least until I do MAJOR mods/turbo upgrades) with a Fram ULTRA filter. (YES, I have been spending WAY TOO MUCH time over on bobistheoilguy.com!!)

Or, IF I discover that the Motul 300V, or Red Line I WANT TO USE are completely harmless, and will NOT cause intake valve problems on a DI engine, I will enthusiastically use those premium brews.

I used Amsoil on a DI Mazdaspeed3 for 35k miles without a single issue. In fact, i've been using Amsoil since about 2009 in SEVERAL high powered cars and track bikes successfully.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I used Amsoil on a DI Mazdaspeed3 for 35k miles without a single issue. In fact, i've been using Amsoil since about 2009 in SEVERAL high powered cars and track bikes successfully.

Which ones??

Some of their oils have a much more stout detergent add pack (calcium/magnesium, maybe boron), and anti-wear/anti-friction add packs, than others, but NONE of them are quite as stout as Red Line's full line up (save for some of their low SAPs Euro oil offerings), nor as strong as most of the Motul line.

 

[LilPartyBox]

I'm a dealer (not actively selling anymore) so all of them. The signature series, the XL, and the OE in our minivan. It just depends on how in love I am with the vehicle in question lol. I did recently opt not to use the signature series anymore but that's just a budget thing.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I'm a dealer (not actively selling anymore) so all of them. The signature series, the XL, and the OE in our minivan. It just depends on how in love I am with the vehicle in question lol. I did recently opt not to use the signature series anymore but that's just a budget thing.

OK, cool.

I still have my Preferred Customer membership, as I have used their excellent Severe Gear oils in the ride I just sold, and their great, Donaldson technology packed, oil filters as well.
Do they make an EaO oil filter for our app?

 

[LilPartyBox]

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ..._medium=OrderConfirm&utm_campaign=ProdSummary

 

[JRifold]

What kind of oil, that isn't "factory," would you guys recommend? Is Mobil Synthetic a good oil? K&N a good oil filter too?

Thanks in advance!

- JR

 

[Capri to ST]

What kind of oil, that isn't "factory," would you guys recommend? Is Mobil Synthetic a good oil? K&N a good oil filter too?

Thanks in advance!

- JR

You have just asked probably the most controversial question that can be asked in a car forum, up there with politics and religion in life. There's a 30-page thread on this-
http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/668-What-oil-brand-do-you-use-on-your-Fiesta-ST

That said, I plan to use Mobil 1 EP, which I think is very good. I won't get it to extend the interval, it's for the more robust additive package over regular Mobil 1, so I'll change it once a year, which is only around 4k miles for me. I'm fine with the stock Motorcraft 910S filter, which I've read is very good.
I would definitely use full synthetic oil in any event.

 

[Reaper]

Mobil 1 is a very good oil. The EP version is even better according to the Bobistheoilguy folks. I always use K&N filters if they make the one I need. It's a good filter but there are a lot of good filters. The K&N's have a 1" hex built onto the bottom of the can so you can break them loose with a big socket. Super.

 

[JRifold]

You have just asked probably the most controversial question that can be asked in a car forum, up there with politics and religion in life. There's a 30-page thread on this-
http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/668-What-oil-brand-do-you-use-on-your-Fiesta-ST

That said, I plan to use Mobil 1 EP, which I think is very good. I won't get it to extend the interval, it's for the more robust additive package over regular Mobil 1, so I'll change it once a year, which is only around 4k miles for me. I'm fine with the stock Motorcraft 910S filter, which I've read is very good.
I would definitely use full synthetic oil in any event.

Thanks Capri and Reaper ^

I will be changing my oil this upcoming week and I wanted to test the forum and see what was good out there.

- JR

 

[Capri to ST]

Thanks Capri and Reaper ^

I will be changing my oil this upcoming week and I wanted to test the forum and see what was good out there.

- JR

You're welcome. You probably know this, but just in case you don't you can buy 5-quart jugs of Mobil 1 and other full synthetics quite cheaply at Wal-Mart, usually $25 or so.

 

[M-Sport fan]

You have just asked probably the most controversial question that can be asked in a car forum, up there with politics and religion in life. There's a 30-page thread on this-
http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/668-What-oil-brand-do-you-use-on-your-Fiesta-ST

That said, I plan to use Mobil 1 EP, which I think is very good. I won't get it to extend the interval, it's for the more robust additive package over regular Mobil 1, so I'll change it once a year, which is only around 4k miles for me. I'm fine with the stock Motorcraft 910S filter, which I've read is very good.
I would definitely use full synthetic oil in any event.

Yes, the enhanced detergent/dispersant add packs of the EP labelled Mobil 1 and Castrol Edge lines help resist both the fuel dilution inherent in DI engines, and the acids formed from both that dilution, any combustion blow-by, and any moisture which gets into the sump from cold ambient temps, and/or short trips.
It is NOT that much more than those companies' non-EP oils (at least at Wal Mart), so even for 5K mile OCIs, it IS worth it!!

 

[Intuit]

First oil change last week Saturday. Factory installed filter is indeed too tight to take off by hand.

I avoid using ramps because in a manual shift especially, it's too easy to drive off the end of them.

For comparison...

On a scale of 1-10 my old vehicle was a 8 on the oil change.
+ Can easily R&R the filter from the top.
+ Could remove and replace the drain pan bolt without getting underneath the vehicle. (just a reach with left arm)
+ Solid framing for jacking was easy to get to.
- Needed a low-profile oil pan (or street curb) if wanted to avoid using a jack.
+ Easy refill port without using funnel
+ Easy too check level
+ Overfill by 1qt inconsequential (did that once as used a 5qt bottle thinking it was a 4qt)



Fiesta by comparison...
There is barely enough room to get a strap wrench in there.
Had to use a really tiny floor jack to get to the front subframe and get enough clearance for my oil drain container.
A low-profile oil pan not likely to fit under it without a jack. (uncomfirmed)
Have get head under vehicle to reach drain pan bolt as it is in the center of the pan.

I shouldn't have to use a strap wrench with the next oil change. So if not for the placement of the drain pan bolt, it being too low for a low-profile drain pan, and having a tougher time jacking it up from a solid frame point, it would be as easy as the old vehicle.

Found out this was not the case.

It is easier to reach the drain pan bolt from the front of the vehicle. Still have to jack it up, but didn't really have to get underneath the vehicle. Just reach...

 

[M-Sport fan]

I've found that the only real pain of an oil change on this car is having to put wads of paper towels under and around the area of the oil filter to catch all of the filter's/cooler's/fitting's oil when you remove it.

Other than that, it is an easy platform for an oil change (as far as I'm concerned).

 

[2fast]

I come from the mazdaspeed world. one of the earliest performance DI engines on the mass market. many more small things to think about on that engine than in the current DI engines, but penzzoil platinum came back with great oil analysis all the time. i used it exclusively on my car from its first oil change to when i sold it at 108 with perfect compression. and that engine was not babied, used, abused and enjoyed with a big turbo and many autocrosses and canyon runs at 350whp and a short stint at 400whp until the clutch could no longer hold. i will continue to use PP in this platform.

as for oil filters, check out this comparison granted it is a few years old http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f427/oil-covered-now-what-best-oil-filter-106998/

 

[Quisp]

Found out this was not the case.

It is easier to reach the drain pan bolt from the front of the vehicle. Still have to jack it up, but didn't really have to get underneath the vehicle. Just reach...

How was it determined a quart overfill was inconsequential ? No aeration from crank churning oil or blocking oil returns ?

 

[Intuit]

I do want to make sure that you understand, the overfill was in reference to a non-Fiesta, non-turbo. Basically it ran the same whether it was 5qt or 4qt in there. The PCV tube is on the front of the engine so if you made a hard stop, may get a little oil in the PCV; but the PCV in this wasn't a service item. Interesetingly, it is gravity-operated part; no spring; never have to replace.

 

[TrickSTer]

We had some pretty technical discussions on oil analysis a couple of years ago (they should be searchable). From the discussions I determined I would use Pennzoil Platinum (full synthetic) and have used it ever since (although I just had the dealer do my 60k km change as my final full warranty inspection; they would have used their Motorcraft semi-synthetic bulk)

 

[Mike V]

Any quality SN oil will do just fine. Today's oils are more stout and you won't see any difference in driving performance between Pennzoil Platinum vs Mobil 1 vs Napa Syn vs etc. Run what is on sale and don't over think it. Walmart has 5 quart jugs of 5W20 Ford syn blend and Motorcaft filter for under $25.

 

[jmrtsus]

Everyone has an opinion on oils, here is mine. The Kendall GT-1 Max is the oil supplied to Ford as the full Synthetic, it is based by food grade mineral oil, super clean baby oil. Can't start much cleaner when it is safe for human consumption. They also supply the Blend that came in your car. The U.S. NIST labs tested the titanium additive and proved it does indeed bond to the metal and does indeed surpass other additives in wear reduction by reducing friction.( link to study below) Also many studies on fleet use showed less wear and increased fuel economy. Not much, about a gallon per year for a car but when you look at all the gas/diesel consumed in the U.S. it decreases oil consumption greatly. So the choice for me is simple, I don't plan on replacing my FiST for many years, if you want max longevity titanium is the best available right now. Reduced friction increases throttle response and power too. Ford likes the increase in fuel economy for CAFE reasons. Ford uses the Castrol Edge EP with Titanium in the Ford GT race car. This is the only two that have Titanium currently. Ford is a big believer as the Kendall and the Castrol Edge EP.

So, Wally World $25 ( plus tax, title and frustration) a jug for the Castrol or probably internet for the Kendall (Petroleum Service Company) About $60/12 Qt. case delivered.

Oil filter?

Motorcraft FL400S will fit the car and provide more filter area than the stock FL910S. Recommended by Mountune and many others. So more filter area same price, why anything else?

There are no top tier oils specified for our car that are bad, all are excellent......but some are slightly better than others. And more opinions than oils!


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