Glad to see yours arrived safely! I'm still working with them to resolve my broken one. They've been responsive so I'm optimistic.
The link seems broken because Amazon stopped selling the H1 holders. When i went into my order history to get you the link, it took me to the H7 holders, not the H1.
Here's the description & link so you can see for yourself. Even a google search of that description comes up with a link that looks correct, but takes you to the H7 version instead. Sorry bro...They work like a charm tho if you can find them!
TOMALL H1 LED Headlight Bulb Retainers Holder Adapter for Ford Focus Fiesta Mondeo High Beam Light(1 Pair)
Links to the bulbs i used:
H7 -
Audew LEDs
H1 -
Hikari LEDs
PY21W -
Everbright LEDs (no HYPER BLINK! Bright AF!)
Unrelated but while i was at it:
Tailight -
Yorkim Ultra Bright
Revers lights -
Auxito 6000k
Interior & plate -
Auxito 194
Still searching for a rear blinker that doesn't hyper without the use of resistors
@danbfree please feel free to add to your original post when you get a moment.
A couple of things to be aware of:
I recommend using a 16 gauge wire to run the DRLs. I used 14 on one side and while i got it to work, it was real bitch getting the wire to feed through the OEM connector. Also, the terminals i ordered worked but i had to break off the retaining clip to reassemble the headlight connector. I'll try but it's hard to explain. You'll know what i mean when you get in there.
Each terminal clicks into it's very own plastic retaining clip built into the connector. It's that same retainer you have to open in order to relocate the one terminal for the DRLs. The terminals on Amazon do not clip into said retainers. The hole on the terminal is too close to the tip to line up properly. This makes it impossible to place the white cap back onto the connector because the retainer is held in it's open position by the Amazon terminals. Breaking the retainer off and taping the wire titghly on the bundle held it in place just fine. In hind sight, I should have take a closer look at the oem terminals and found something that resembled it more closely, which i'm sure would be no easy task! Anywho, here's what i used -->
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COBE5O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
When buying the add-a-circuit for the DRLs, you must buy the correct size for our cars. I found out the hard way, assuming those tiny fuses in my box had to be mini. But my 2016 uses micro2 fuses, which are no where to be found local to me. I had never heard of them until i googles. Here's the Amazon link -->
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083QN1RRB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is how I wired up the DRLs. I used F26 as per the OPs instructions. The red wire is the add-a-circuit. Ignore the ballast in the background. But notice i have two wires mating to the red one. The black one being the 14 gauge i don't recommend you suffer through. In order to get this to work, i dug through my spare parts and found a coupler (the blue part) that can take a 12 gauge on one side and a 16 on the other. This way the added girth of the two wires wouldn't be an issue. To remove the existing coupler, i used a vice grip to squeeze it loose. I suspect that if you use 16 gauge you wouldn't have to replace the coupler.
You can also see where I looped and taped the wire as it leaves the headlight connector. I zip tied the black wire to the brake fluid pipe on the driver side and the AC condensor pipe on the passenger side. It passes directly over the intake corssover pipe. Then left about 8 inches of slack under the headlight so i can reposition the wire during my inevitable turbo upgrade
EDIT: Removed the 80mm dust cover as it's actually 76mm.