Ultimate guide for those considering Euro projector headlights - all the basics in one thread!

[jimbobillybob]

Video on how to properly split your headlight connector to move the one pin - instead of completely removing white connector as shown in link method above



is there any other link for this, idk if it's me but when I try to open it, it says that its private

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[danbfree]

Video on how to properly split your headlight connector to move the one pin - instead of completely removing white connector as shown in link method above



is there any other link for this, idk if it's me but when I try to open it, it says that its private

He recently had some threads archived, but didn't realize he did that for his YT videos too... But anyway, that specific one ended up being not as important at least, not a big deal splitting that harness.

 

[mindmaster]

The first post is not clear which unit should you buy. 2 reference of the same side is confusing.

 

[danbfree]

The first post is not clear which unit should you buy. 2 reference of the same side is confusing.

Sorry if I wasn't clear, I linked to the site and mention the brand name to buy, what other info did you need? I thought it was clear that you just order one of each side from the brand that you want...

 

[thetedderbear]

Just got my Depo headlights today, along with the Cougar H7 low beams and Aukey H1 highs like mentioned in this thread.
I’m pretty disappointed in the output. My old stock halogen bulbs were brighter than the low beams and the highs literally shot out to the side of the car and weren’t much brighter. Anybody else have similar issues? Am I doing something wrong?

 

[mindmaster]

I am going to Europe this Dicember. Which head lights should i order?

 

[danbfree]

Just got my Depo headlights today, along with the Cougar H7 low beams and Aukey H1 highs like mentioned in this thread.
I’m pretty disappointed in the output. My old stock halogen bulbs were brighter than the low beams and the highs literally shot out to the side of the car and weren’t much brighter. Anybody else have similar issues? Am I doing something wrong?

Hmmm, take a pic of a wall shot, very easy to do from your phone as I'm really curious... The Cougar and Katana are supposed to be really close as a projector low beam and I love my Katana's so the Cougar should be good too... but the BulbFacts site doesn't use Fiesta housings so they can always be different. For example, the Katana is amazing in projectors but waaay behind the Cougar in reflectors, maybe you should return and try the Katana in your projectors since that is proven to be great output in our housings?

 

[danbfree]

I am going to Europe this Dicember. Which head lights should i order?

Well, the projector ones... Seriously, I think all the Fiesta ST's there are sold with projectors, just get them from mainland Europe and not the UK!

 

[danbfree]

Has anyone else tried the H1 high beam with the bulb oriented with the chips up and down instead of side side? I might try that with my 60w Aukee's, they arrive tomorrow,..

 

[KyleS]

Anyone have experience with buying Hellas from 245(.)com? I want to go OEM this time around after my headache with Depo headlights.

 

[Intuit]

Bought them but haven't yet taken time to install. I let 245 know that others had reported shipping damage and needed to be packaged for international ship. They arrived *very* well packaged. Installed LED replacements for the turn sig and low beams. (leaving high beams alone) Aesthetically speaking, I like the more blocky appearance of the USDM OEM better than the contoured Euro OEM.

 

[danbfree]

So I wired up my Depo headlights the simple add-a-circuit and move the parking light pin method.

My issue is that sometimes the DRLs stay on high for several minutes. I shutoff car and get out, they're on low until I lock the car, at which point sometimes they go off, and sometimes they go to high for several minutes.

Probing my fuse box (or just listening), it seems the engine power sometimes stays on for a while. Usually not a big deal, but I would hate to have it happen when trying to street park at night and having my DRLs blind everyone on the street.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Since I went this method too, I ended up using spot F26 and they stay on low for only 15 secs after turning off the car... It's the one open spot I had on my '17 without using the pass-through fuse on another location. That spot is only used for the 1.0 3-cyl so it should be perfect for you too.

 

[BlackBeanAndRice]

Since I went this method too, I ended up using spot F26 and they stay on low for only 15 secs after turning off the car... It's the one open spot I had on my '17 without using the pass-through fuse on another location. That spot is only used for the 1.0 3-cyl so it should be perfect for you too.

I'll give it a try, but I haven't been having the issue recently, so I'll need to recreate the problem first. I think it's something about the order/duration of steps when stopping the car, like if I killed the engine while it was still rolling or didn't touch the brake or something, the ignition power would stay on for a minute or two. I just make sure I fully stop and hold brake and clutch and give the button a good press to shutdown and it works as desired.

My previous cars, I usually would kill the engine before coming to a stop and have the door opening as I stop such that taking my foot off the clutch to leave it in first gear was what actually stopped the car and was me stepping out at the same time. You could really hit the ground running. Same for jumping in, stepping on the clutch, starting it and the momentum of pulling away as you lift up on the clutch helps shut the door. The whole not having to carefully "park" the thing was part of the manual transmission appeal.

 

[Intuit]

I'll bet one of your previous cars looked like this... (minus the obviously fake wheels)

 

[Jensen567]

Been a bit since I have posted here, but things are coming along slowly for an ultimate euro light adapter box. I have the circuit design basically done, now I just have to transfer it to software and do a PCB layout. Will still probably take awhile as I don't have a ton of time to work on it.



No additional wiring or even pin swaps will be needed, just using Forscan to enable Canadian dipped low DRLs. It has functionality to control LED behavior in any of 4 individual operation modes. All control is done by flipping DIP switches.

It's in the notes on the pic, but I defined the modes as follows

Mode 1 - Unlocking doors
Mode 2 - DRLs
Mode 3 - Parking Lights
Mode 4 - Headlights on


In each of those the LEDs can be selected to be either low or high. Additionally I baked in support for LED turn signals with a ballast resistor, AND I added a feature that will turn the LED strip off temporarily while the turn signal is active, similar to how Audi's work. Both of those features can be disabled with DIP switches if desired.

Finally I also put in support for the leveling motors. It has resistors baked in to simply center the motors, or it will have a 3 pin connector to run to a potentiometer in the dash, DIP switches select this mode also. To use potentiometer control both sides will need to be linked with a 3 wire cable, but again, connectors will be present for this.

I dont know that I plan on selling these, maybe if I get enough interest, but I will make the plans available when I have tested the design out. As of this moment parts cost is ~$100 for both sides, so it isn't cheap, but it will make the euro lights function 100% like factory, without having to change or add a single wire, just a forscan flash then plug and play. Actually, I think they will have more features than factory with the turn signal stuff.

 

[jimbobillybob]

Been a bit since I have posted here, but things are coming along slowly for an ultimate euro light adapter box. I have the circuit design basically done, now I just have to transfer it to software and do a PCB layout. Will still probably take awhile as I don't have a ton of time to work on it.

View attachment 26405

No additional wiring or even pin swaps will be needed, just using Forscan to enable Canadian dipped low DRLs. It has functionality to control LED behavior in any of 4 individual operation modes. All control is done by flipping DIP switches.

It's in the notes on the pic, but I defined the modes as follows

Mode 1 - Unlocking doors
Mode 2 - DRLs
Mode 3 - Parking Lights
Mode 4 - Headlights on


In each of those the LEDs can be selected to be either low or high. Additionally I baked in support for LED turn signals with a ballast resistor, AND I added a feature that will turn the LED strip off temporarily while the turn signal is active, similar to how Audi's work. Both of those features can be disabled with DIP switches if desired.

Finally I also put in support for the leveling motors. It has resistors baked in to simply center the motors, or it will have a 3 pin connector to run to a potentiometer in the dash, DIP switches select this mode also. To use potentiometer control both sides will need to be linked with a 3 wire cable, but again, connectors will be present for this.

I dont know that I plan on selling these, maybe if I get enough interest, but I will make the plans available when I have tested the design out. As of this moment parts cost is ~$100 for both sides, so it isn't cheap, but it will make the euro lights function 100% like factory, without having to change or add a single wire, just a forscan flash then plug and play. Actually, I think they will have more features than factory with the turn signal stuff.

definitely keep me in the loop, I've got some euros just sitting in boxes waiting for me to throw in. if these save me some time and get them working 100% then I'll pay

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[CrzRsn]

Anyone know where to still get OE Euro lights? NOT looking for Depo or TYC. Whoosh Motorsports lists them as out of stock, none on eBay and the Ford Parts UK site no longer is taking parts requests. I’ve reached out to a few of my friends in Europe, but figured I’d ask here as well.

I dont know that I plan on selling these, maybe if I get enough interest, but I will make the plans available when I have tested the design out. As of this moment parts cost is ~$100 for both sides, so it isn't cheap, but it will make the euro lights function 100% like factory, without having to change or add a single wire, just a forscan flash then plug and play. Actually, I think they will have more features than factory with the turn signal stuff.

Assuming I can actually get a set, I’d be interested in this too. Right now my plan is to make my own harness jumper following @VirtualRonin’s instructions, but unless I’m bulk ordering parts, its not going to cost me much less than $100, so this wouldn’t be that much of a premium for significantly more functionality.

 

[danbfree]

So not sure how hard it is to add one wire for full functionality other than leveling motors, but more options is good I guess!

 

[86 5.0L]

Has anybody used the black Depo ones? or have pictures? i hate the chromed out regular ones

 

[Blindeye_03]

Welp my passenger side Depo LED burnt out today. I installed these in September.. I emailed Constantine to see what they'd do. He'll probably tell me to take them to someone to have them diagnosed. Like I have time for that.

I'm guessing there is no way to fix them huh? And Im probably out of luck from cars245.

Kind of just hope I can get a partial refund and ill just disable the other led .. or a new headlight but thats wishful thinking.