Ultimate guide for those considering Euro projector headlights - all the basics in one thread!

[jtsimaras]

I'd like to know what you did to make it fit better... something to lift the bumper up more?

I pulled the bumper a bit inwards and up and tapped new plugs as per pics. Could not pull it up too much as hood gap would be too tight. Still not oem headlight fitment but better than out of the box.

 

[jtsimaras]

Here is a pic of oem vs depo... From far away the oem looks more aggressive unlit as it has black housing

 

[Dpro]

Here is a pic of oem vs depo... From far away the oem looks more aggressive unlit as it has black housing

The original Euros did not have Black housing either ask me how I know😂

 

[Intuit]

That driver headlamp was replaced with non-OEM at some point. OEM had some black trim but nothing to that degree.

 

[jtsimaras]

That driver headlamp was replaced with non-OEM at some point. OEM had some black trim but nothing to that degree.

On mine nope both are Ford OEM and came on the car since day one -- maybe pic is misleading - I'm located in Canada maybe they are varied for Canadian market as all the FISTs in town have same black trim. pics show the manufacture month date of April 2015 for both left and right headlights...car was purchased new in July 2015.
We also have DRLs running off the low beams -- found it so lame with the OEM headlights so deactivated it with FORscan..might turn it back on since new lights are projectors.

 

[ogminlo]

How is everyone's fitment of the Euro clones? I installed some TYC euros in my dads car & the fitment is not good.
If anyone had bad fitment - what did you do to adjust it?

I had the same issue with my TYCs. I leaned on them to to bias the fit forward and used some zip ties to snug the bumper cover up and even out the panel gaps. Not ideal, but good enough for me. I wanted DEPOs but at the time it seemed like they were discontinued. By all accounts the DEPOs are better than the TYCs for anyone still shopping.

 

[Intuit]

On mine nope both are Ford OEM and came on the car since day one -- maybe pic is misleading - I'm located in Canada maybe they are varied for Canadian market as all the FISTs in town have same black trim. pics show the manufacture month date of April 2015 for both left and right headlights...car was purchased new in July 2015.
We also have DRLs running off the low beams -- found it so lame with the OEM headlights so deactivated it with FORscan..might turn it back on since new lights are projectors.

Makes sense. Different headlamps for different market regulations.

 

[focus_racer19]

Okay just got my euros in today and the search function wont work but how the hell do you install the high beams! I have the stock clip still in and I bought the focus headlight clip thing but for whatever reason my brain cannot compute how to get the bulb to plug in. I need like a version for a 5yr old I'm trying to install LAairH1 bulbs from LasFit

 

[Zeille]

Okay just got my euros in today and the search function wont work but how the hell do you install the high beams! I have the stock clip still in and I bought the focus headlight clip thing but for whatever reason my brain cannot compute how to get the bulb to plug in. I need like a version for a 5yr old I'm trying to install LAairH1 bulbs from LasFit

are they authentic euros? or are they TYC/depo? i was able to avoid using the other clip from the old headlights and use the mounting style that came on the headlights to hold the high beam in place. send pictures too - it's been several months since i've done my father's euros

 

[SVTBob]

I am in the process of installing my OEM projectors and managed to damage both pins that need to be moved (The seller gave me two correct pins for the additional DRL circuit, but just 2). When I search using the original descriptor given in the thread ( “150 female 20-16 terminal pins”) the results do not match exactly the pins in our plugs (they appear to have a tab within the square end that I am afraid will interfere with the connection as the original pins do not have these tabs. When I use the suggested “Molex 33472 - 1840” part number, the result is usually the whole plug, not the pins. Can someone please give me a reliable source for these pins !!!!

 

[Intuit]

You're right, it's not a precise match.

You may try:
* Google Lens
* DigiKey.Com Customer Service
* Mouser.Com Customer Service
* OctoPart.Com

If you do find a more precise match, please let us know.

 

[SVTBob]

I will try those suggestions, thank you very much. Was hoping someone might have extras they could sell me since most pins come in multi-packs. If that fails, I will reluctantly order the ones with the tabs, remove the tabs and see if that works. Looking at the plug receptacle in the light housing convinces me the tab would crush the male pin part of the connection.

 

[akiraproject24]

I will try those suggestions, thank you very much. Was hoping someone might have extras they could sell me since most pins come in multi-packs. If that fails, I will reluctantly order the ones with the tabs, remove the tabs and see if that works. Looking at the plug receptacle in the light housing convinces me the tab would crush the male pin part of the connection.

I noticed the pins I bought were noticeably shorter and the tabs didnt line up the same as the oem. Ive had these euros for like 2 years without installing so I have thought this out many times over. I ended up getting an oem plug with pins and wires still assembled. I pulled a couple of the pins and decided I was going to connect that to the wire I purchased that will run to the add a fuse. This way I have an oem connection in the plug that will seat properly on the headlight side plug. I found the assembly on ebay.

 

[ogminlo]

I probably should have posted in this thread instead of the giant "What did you do" thread, but I wanted to be able to switch back to USDM stock without re-pinning the car's wiring, so I built some wiring harness adapters out of kits I found for only a couple bucks per connector on AliExpress. I ran a double 18 AWG wire to each side off a fuse tap at F26 and used the other lead to power the accent light of the fogs. Here's the crude schematic I used to make my adapter harnesses:

 

[SVTBob]

Wished I'd thought of that before I munged everything up !

 

[SVTBob]

akiraproject24, what did you search for on ebay to get the OEM plugs ? Searching for Molex 33472-1840 got me a couple of vendors that sell just the plugs (molex no longer lists them) ; actually they are duplicates made by an aftermarket vendor. The last thing I want to do is mess up the male pins on the headlight housing !

 

[Intuit]

Possible alternative for powering DRL -- see the following thread...
https://www.fiestastforum.com/threa...erminal-part-numbers-no-more-fuse-taps.30228/

======================

https://www.fiestastforum.com/threa...ll-the-basics-in-one-thread.20213/post-407565

^ Recap
We employ the unused F26 to power the DRLs.
On a seemingly random basis, the DRLs may stay on high-brightness after powering off, exiting, locking and walking away from the vehicle; as little as five minutes or as long as thirty. (they won't run your battery down)

F26 which is unused on our vehicles, is ordinarily slated to power cooling related systems. I suspect the ECU keeps this circuit active after engine shutoff, depending on temperature management programming.

 

[Dialcaliper]

Possible alternative for powering DRL -- see the following thread...
https://www.fiestastforum.com/threa...erminal-part-numbers-no-more-fuse-taps.30228/

======================

https://www.fiestastforum.com/threa...ll-the-basics-in-one-thread.20213/post-407565

^ Recap
We employ the unused F26 to power the DRLs.
On a seemingly random basis, the DRLs may stay on high-brightness after powering off, exiting, locking and walking away from the vehicle; as little as five minutes or as long as thirty. (they won't run your battery down)

F26 which is unused on our vehicles, is ordinarily slated to power cooling related systems. I suspect the ECU keeps this circuit active after engine shutoff, depending on temperature management programming.

I’ve used F26 in my car, and it’s triggered like everything else in that row (F22-F26) by the PCM power relay which is as far as I can trace, triggered directly by the ignition button. I’ve seen similar behavior though usually it clicks off 2-3 minutes after turning off the ignition.

The guide linked shows a relatively straightforward way of wiring a contact directly into the back of the fuse box so as to use F26 as a normal circuit, without the need for a fuse tap, or wire snaking out of the top of the box.

 

[SVTBob]

Ok, finally got my OEM projectors (thank you, Dpro !) installed and working perfectly with full DRL functionality today. Sure wished I’d thought of or read about ogminlo’s adaptor solution before pulling apart my plugs. Much easier with the added advantage of easy removal and return to stock. I would not even think of removing the projectors from my car if I ever sold it. Getting the pins out for relocation was a bear for me, even with picks, etc.. Destroyed both pins, did damage to one plug (fortunately, it was limited to the #3 socket area that I vacated).The original plugs were made by Molex (PN 33472-1804). Molex no longer makes them or the pins for them. I found a pack of 5 pins that supposedly would fit 33472 (Dorman PN 85337) that were cheap but they are too short (size of the pin looks to be ok but about 1/3 shorter than original). What saved me is that another small company makes an exact duplicate of the Molex plug and includes 16 of the correct size pins (misplaced the receipt, will post the name of the company tomorrow in case you get desperate). I thought I might have to replace one of the plugs anyway but I was wrong and I was in a hurry. I do not suggest this solution as it is expensive ($40) and I am sure there are way cheaper alternatives if you don’t try to eyeball the pin size and instead take exact measurements before searching. I was glad I had some spares as getting the pins reinserted can sometimes be a pain too. Had to make a tool out of an old pair of tweezers to push on the back end of the pin (behind the “box” portion; the part of the pin where the wire is inserted is too fragile). And these tiny pins are just as easily damaged on re-insertion in their new location, although both the added new pins from the Add a Circuit both slipped right in. I used F26 as suggested in the original thread with no issues. Glad that is done.

 

[SVTBob]

OK, so after getting my OEM projectors functioning, I decided to upgrade the bulbs. So I went to BulbFacts and, based on their reviews, ordered a set of DDM Sabre LED 75W Max series on sale for $167 down from $230. On the order form it asked if I wanted a decoder box. Since I had not seen anything about decoder boxes on the forum threads, I said “no”. When the bulbs arrived I found that the bulbs did not seem to fit the socket (need an adapter ?) and that there was a box in the wire connector wiring. Have no idea what this could be but I will return them. Can anyone recommend a good LED that is compatible with the OEM projector housings that is simply plug and play ?