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Ultimate guide for those considering Euro projector headlights - all the basics in one thread!

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Well, did it again except, did the normal routine of shutting off the engine before opening the door. There has to be some logic to it, but for the time being it is seemingly random.

EDIT 20y05m17d:
While the entire row of F22 through F26 is switched with ignition the majority of the time, the remaining Micro2 fuses and empty slots, (27-31, 38-42, 7-11) are not switched with ignition. They seem to be hot at all times, or blank.
Seems random to me too... but for some reason happens the most when using auto lights and in the morning when when transitioning from night light to daytime... usually 2 minutes and they shut off but certainly doesn’t happen every day every time. Since no many people have this issue could be something we did wrong on the wiring process ?




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danbfree

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Thread Starter #282
Seems random to me too... but for some reason happens the most when using auto lights and in the morning when when transitioning from night light to daytime... usually 2 minutes and they shut off but certainly doesn’t happen every day every time. Since no many people have this issue could be something we did wrong on the wiring process ?




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I feel bad this is happening to you, so I went and took a look to verify the wiring and yeah, confirmed the moved wire goes into the bottom right spot and the added power to the pin right above it and ran off F26 where 2 wires, one to each pf those top right pin on each side, meet at the end of the add a circuit tail... I wonder if this is something to do with the tune at all, not sure if you have an AP, but I change my tune frequently between 93 and e50 so maybe when the tune gets flashed and a lot of stuff gets reset it detects those new connections? I'm just trying to brainstorm to come with ideas for you since I've never seen mine stay on for more than 30 secs at the absolute most, but it may have stayed on longer before I had reflashed after the lights were initially installed... hmmm.
 


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I feel bad this is happening to you, so I went and took a look to verify the wiring and yeah, confirmed the moved wire goes into the bottom right spot and the added power to the pin right above it and ran off F26 where 2 wires, one to each pf those top right pin on each side, meet at the end of the add a circuit tail... I wonder if this is something to do with the tune at all, not sure if you have an AP, but I change my tune frequently between 93 and e50 so maybe when the tune gets flashed and a lot of stuff gets reset it detects those new connections? I'm just trying to brainstorm to come with ideas for you since I've never seen mine stay on for more than 30 secs at the absolute most, but it may have stayed on longer before I had reflashed after the lights were initially installed... hmmm.
I do have an ap and I’m tuned but I don’t think I have mess with my tune since I installed this headlights. I will try and flash my 91 tune and then go back to my e30 tune and see if anything changes. The weird thing that drives me crazy is how I can drive anywhere during the day and this never happens even at night this never happens but when I go to work in the mornings it’s when it happens so I’m really inclined to think the auto headlights on and the change right at dawn when the headlights go from on to off automatically is the trigger of this issue, but of course I can’t prove none of this random idea...


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Intuit

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@danbfree @Poloadvance95
With regard to drivetrain and programming, I'm all stock fellas. Coolant pump and active grill shutters, are things that I can see being powered on for a period after ignition off, probably dependent upon engine temperature. Engine temp can be read from diagnostic mode. (https://www.fiestastforum.com/threa...ould-secret-features-thread.15615/post-406280) Of course, it'd be up to those modules as to whether to actually do anything with that power. These are things that would be on the 1.0L GTDI model.
 


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@danbfree @Poloadvance95
With regard to drivetrain and programming, I'm all stock fellas. Coolant pump and active grill shutters, are things that I can see being powered on for a period after ignition off, probably dependent upon engine temperature. Engine temp can be read from diagnostic mode. (https://www.fiestastforum.com/threa...ould-secret-features-thread.15615/post-406280) Of course, it'd be up to those modules as to whether to actually do anything with that power. These are things that would be on the 1.0L GTDI model.
Well this afternoon I flashed my car back to stock tune and then I flashed my e30 tune back. I’ll see if it behaves any different in the morning when I usually have the issue [emoji849][emoji1696]

But since you’re stock tune idk if this will be the fix. I keep thinking maybe I did a poor job wiring everything but you obviously don’t seem to be a person that would have that kind of issue...


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danbfree

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Thread Starter #287
I do have an ap and I’m tuned but I don’t think I have mess with my tune since I installed this headlights. I will try and flash my 91 tune and then go back to my e30 tune and see if anything changes. The weird thing that drives me crazy is how I can drive anywhere during the day and this never happens even at night this never happens but when I go to work in the mornings it’s when it happens so I’m really inclined to think the auto headlights on and the change right at dawn when the headlights go from on to off automatically is the trigger of this issue, but of course I can’t prove none of this random idea...
OK, confirmed mine does this too! Yes, I use Auto lights and they had just come on driving into my garage before turning off the car and getting out, but doesn't happen all the time. So for now, until we find another fix, If you ever get out and notice they are still on high, then go back, open the door and reach in and cycle the ignition back on for a few secs then off again. Then, when you close your door they will then be dim and go off in like 5 secs... Since I just noticed this parking in my own garage and don't lock the door, perhaps locking the door, and/or cycling the lock a couple of times from the key fob might work too.
 


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Location
Denver, CO, USA
Hi everyone, thanks for all the write ups! Currently waiting on Hellas from cars245. I am sick of the oem lighting!

I did have one questions and wanted to make sure im interpreting this right....
For the '14 FiSt when adding a circuit it was mentioned to piggyback F20, so would that mean i pull out the 15A fuse, place the add a circuit in that spot and replace the 15A fuse onto add a circuit? Or is it still a 5A fuse?
20200605_112154.jpg
 


Intuit

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@deegs28 - The "Add A Circuit" type products aren't designed correctly... or at least not with the proper package label warnings. If the original fuse was 15A and you install a 5A fuse along with the 15A, you're potentially placing 20A on that wire. If you look at the exposed wire bundles beneath the box, you'll see that you have varying degrees of thickness... different wire gauges. Copper is expensive so manufacturers wire mostly for what's necessary in that line of vehicle. The danger is, over a period of years the wire may get warm enough to gradually melt through its insulation, then begin working on adjacent wires. If a short ever occurs, it would be HELL to troubleshoot, let alone find. If they had designed it right, the 5A would slave off the 15A, meaning there would still only be a maximum potential of 15A going out over that wire.

If you cannot locate an empty spot that is switched with ignition, my advice would be to install a relay.
 


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@deegs28 - The "Add A Circuit" type products aren't designed correctly... or at least not with the proper package label warnings. If the original fuse was 15A and you install a 5A fuse along with the 15A, you're potentially placing 20A on that wire. If you look at the exposed wire bundles beneath the box, you'll see that you have varying degrees of thickness... different wire gauges. Copper is expensive so manufacturers wire mostly for what's necessary in that line of vehicle. The danger is, over a period of years the wire may get warm enough to gradually melt through its insulation, then begin working on adjacent wires. If a short ever occurs, it would be HELL to troubleshoot, let alone find. If they had designed it right, the 5A would slave off the 15A, meaning there would still only be a maximum potential of 15A going out over that wire.

If you cannot locate an empty spot that is switched with ignition, my advice would be to install a relay.
Wow... I didnt even think of that, that makes complete sense embarrassing engineering moment here!! I guess I just assumed that is how they worked. (https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/what-should-i-do-about-lights.21319/page-6 ) Don't know how I missed this forum but saw you mentioned it here too, definitely something to consider to do the install correctly..

Ive never added a relay to a car before total noob haha, but would this mean that I would have to add a switch in the cabin to run the LED strip on/off? It seems like connections for a relay are made outside the fuse box and I would need a way to control it if I am not able to find an open fuse that runs with ignition with the micro2.

Thank you for that insights!!!!
 


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Simi Valley, CA, USA
For those that ordered from cars245, was the tracking info you got usable? My shipping is TNT / FedEx and the listed tracking info doesnt turn anything up on either carrier.

I know most say the shipping takes a while, I'd just like to see movement. It's been just about 3 weeks since I ordered
 


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Location
Lake City
For those that ordered from cars245, was the tracking info you got usable? My shipping is TNT / FedEx and the listed tracking info doesnt turn anything up on either carrier.

I know most say the shipping takes a while, I'd just like to see movement. It's been just about 3 weeks since I ordered
You should email them. Mine took 6 days after I order to be delivered. And if they don’t have any info email fedex. But no one here would have a better answer than them.


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I ordered FEDEX / TNT and got it through Canada Post. Just check USPS and it might be there as well. Shipped on May 18th, and I got it yesterday.
That was great advice thank you. The tracking number does turn up info on USPS although as of today it looks like it’s still in Latvia. I ordered on 5/22 😑. At least it’s something though.
 


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That was great advice thank you. The tracking number does turn up info on USPS although as of today it looks like it’s still in Latvia. I ordered on 5/22 😑. At least it’s something though.
Same here I think i ordered June 2......been counting the 10-15 handling days for the Hella set
 


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Lake City
After installing h1 led bulbs with adapters is it normal that they have a little play or do I have bad holders and they should be tight with no movement? Thanks guys !


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danbfree

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Thread Starter #298
After installing h1 led bulbs with adapters is it normal that they have a little play or do I have bad holders and they should be tight with no movement? Thanks guys !
Yeah, unfortunately those cheap little clips can sometimes have play and I don't know of any other solutions... I even have what appears to be one higher than the other and I don't think the high beams have a separate aiming adjustment from the low beams, I think it may even be due to more play on one side than the other.
 


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Yeah, unfortunately those cheap little clips can sometimes have play and I don't know of any other solutions... I even have what appears to be one higher than the other and I don't think the high beams have a separate aiming adjustment from the low beams, I think it may even be due to more play on one side than the other.
Thanks man I did notice that too one is higher but not drastic. I will see at night if it’s a big deal or not but so far right now against the wall does not look to bad [emoji106]


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Portland
So, my second attempt to order Black housing depo projectors has fallen through. I ordered directly through the cars245 website this time on April 26th, but the order did not go through smoothly. I was on PC this time also, as I have had issues with mobile interfaces timing out during laggy transactions and wreaking havoc. When I bounced back to cars245 from the payment page at PayPal, it said the transaction was incomplete and the order had been cancelled. I sent an email straight away. Waited two months before sending another email demanding a refund. Constantine jumped in and verified last week that the payment had gone through (I sent him PayPal's receipt email) and said he would refund the order. Crossing my fingers I get that refund.

Now they are unavailable. All I want is black projectors [emoji19]

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