Ultimate guide for those considering Euro projector headlights - all the basics in one thread!
- Thread starter danbfree
- Start date
SPECULATION: The following diagram, might lend a clue to the behavior. Ever notice when you open the *driver* door after it's been sitting awhile, it makes a noise? I believe these are the injectors firing. It doesn't always do this however. (typically after its been sitting awhile, before the last door open) Take this as hearsay, but direct injection engines squirt a bit of fuel into the cylinders, well before crank in order to assist with starting. It does this early in order to give the fuel more time to vaporize. Note, we are "1.6L GTDI" not "1.6L TIVCT". We don't use this fuse location, which is why it isn't in the manual.
Thread Starter
#270
All I can say is if you have a '16+, use spot F26 for the Add A Circuit, despite what any early photo I may have posted shows... I rarely see the high DRL stay on for more than 15 secs now, sometimes 30 max... I'll be on here less and less now, been busy with work and my car is honestly about fully done to how I want it, so it's not worth diving too deep into things and getting in arguments over things people don't want to believe (not this thread, lol)... but I will definitely be checking in at least once a week!
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Thread Starter
#272
Definitely one of the easier projects to do on our car, I just ran the 18 gauge wire for the passenger side across the top/front of the radiator and it's just using needle nose pliers to pinch on the 150 terms and the 2 -18 gauge wires into the one wire out of the Add a Circuit... If I still lived down in the IE I'd help you out, but at least know it's probably even easier than you think. I might do a quick video and share so maybe people feel more comfortable.
Finally got around to finishing up this project. Bought some damaged Euro lights from Whoosh and VirtualRonin’s harness almost 2 years ago. Lost motivation on the opening and painting for a while. Wish I had done it sooner! Love getting rid of the stock chrome look, and the DRLs look pretty sweet. Thanks for the info guys! Might throw some LEDs in at some point.
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Okay having had the new lights installed a week, have witnessed this.
I stood around for 11 minutes... long enough for the power to shutoff to the USB ports, and the DRLs were still on, in "high" brightness mode.
Un/locking, opening/closing the door had no impact. The only way to get them to shut off, was to temporarily turn on the ignition. (didn't start the engine)
This is how I recreated the issue. (doesn't matter whether it's night or day)
1) Park the vehicle. (in reverse gear with clutch pedal floored)
2) Opened only the driver door.
3) Shut off the engine.
(following done within 10 seconds...)
4) Lock the vehicle.
5) Get out.
6) Shut the door.
Many steps may be unnecessary. I believe the key is basically to shutoff the vehicle with the driver door open. There could be other ways to reproduce this.
But it's apparent that until we can verify that it won't run the battery down, we have to watch for this every time we exit the vehicle. It's possible that this isn't a logic bug... the ECU may be waiting for some feedback from an (absent) component that would've been powered by F26. Haven't verified whether this behavior can be reproduced with anything other than the driver door. But I suspect it requires the driver door.
I stood around for 11 minutes... long enough for the power to shutoff to the USB ports, and the DRLs were still on, in "high" brightness mode.
Un/locking, opening/closing the door had no impact. The only way to get them to shut off, was to temporarily turn on the ignition. (didn't start the engine)
This is how I recreated the issue. (doesn't matter whether it's night or day)
1) Park the vehicle. (in reverse gear with clutch pedal floored)
2) Opened only the driver door.
3) Shut off the engine.
(following done within 10 seconds...)
4) Lock the vehicle.
5) Get out.
6) Shut the door.
Many steps may be unnecessary. I believe the key is basically to shutoff the vehicle with the driver door open. There could be other ways to reproduce this.
But it's apparent that until we can verify that it won't run the battery down, we have to watch for this every time we exit the vehicle. It's possible that this isn't a logic bug... the ECU may be waiting for some feedback from an (absent) component that would've been powered by F26. Haven't verified whether this behavior can be reproduced with anything other than the driver door. But I suspect it requires the driver door.
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Well, did it again except, did the normal routine of shutting off the engine before opening the door. There has to be some logic to it, but for the time being it is seemingly random.
EDIT 20y05m17d:
While the entire row of F22 through F26 is switched with ignition the majority of the time, the remaining Micro2 fuses and empty slots, (27-31, 38-42, 7-11) are not switched with ignition. They seem to be hot at all times, or blank.
EDIT 20y05m17d:
While the entire row of F22 through F26 is switched with ignition the majority of the time, the remaining Micro2 fuses and empty slots, (27-31, 38-42, 7-11) are not switched with ignition. They seem to be hot at all times, or blank.
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Thread Starter
#279
Yes, I researched it and F26 was a spot used for the 1.0 Ecoboost model to open and close active shutter doors on the radiator or something and is the only free one that is simply ignition switched so the headlight logic should take over. I have never seen mine stay on for more than 30 secs at any time ever using F26... so kind of weird in your case. Only downside at all is should be that they are on bright with your ignition switch on at all, only way to have dim while ignition on is to have either marker light on, so then there is draw from your tail light too, so not a good idea to sit with the ignition on for long periods as it will eventually wear down the battery,
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