Transmission fluid change

[M-Sport fan]

The amusement park I work at runs Mark Williams 9's upside down and backwards. Torco diff fluid worked the best at keeping them alive for 80,000 miles in a 6,000lb vehicle.

I used the Torco SGO in my weak little GM 7.6 10 bolt ('00 Z28), to try and keep it alive for 250K miles with 400 lb. ft. going through it.

 

[FireRedFiesta]

Look into installing a bypass filter to clean your oil down to 1 to 3 microns. Those are the ultimate oil filters. Many companies make them and they can keep your oil looking almost new for as long as you keep the filters changed while leaving the same oil in. Many companies make these filters. Look at Frantz, Trasko, and Amsoil. Any one of these 3 filters will provide amazing results, no matter what synthetic oil you use. The Trasko filters have to be changed every 10,000 miles, but the Amsoil one, as it can be a dual bypass, can go up to a whopping 60,000 miles while the secondary filter has to be changed at shorter intervals. It depends on what vehicle you're putting them in and if you have room. I've used Trasko and Amsoil but yet to try Frantz.

 

[danbfree]

Amsoil meets/exceeds DEXO standards. I would never buy any oil that doesn't proudly publish their ASTM testing results. You have no idea what garbage you're putting in your engine or transmission. Just because it says "synthetic" on it doesn't always mean it's a good oil. I'm very picky about what stuff I put in my cars.

I go by this in using PUP 5w-30: https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

Sure, it may not be 100% conclusive as to the very best available, but it at least shows what I'm using isn't garbage.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Look into installing a bypass filter to clean your oil down to 1 to 3 microns. Those are the ultimate oil filters. Many companies make them and they can keep your oil looking almost new for as long as you keep the filters changed while leaving the same oil in. Many companies make these filters. Look at Frantz, Trasko, and Amsoil. Any one of these 3 filters will provide amazing results, no matter what synthetic oil you use. The Trasko filters have to be changed every 10,000 miles, but the Amsoil one, as it can be a dual bypass, can go up to a whopping 60,000 miles while the secondary filter has to be changed at shorter intervals. It depends on what vehicle you're putting them in and if you have room. I've used Trasko and Amsoil but yet to try Frantz.

I was thinking about the Amsoil double bypass setup, but WHERE is there ANY space in this car's engine bay to mount that??!!

 

[M-Sport fan]

I go by this to use PUP 5w-30: https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

Sure, it may not be 100% conclusive as to the very best available, but it at least shows what I'm using isn't garbage.

NONE of the 'major brand' "synthetics" are garbage (or even less than GREAT), but that is one of the better ones among them.

 

[danbfree]

NONE of the 'major brand' "synthetics" are garbage (or even less than GREAT), but that is one of the better ones among them.

I know YOU "get it", my friend, but others are unconvinced...

 

[danbfree]

Is that the Amway that my neighbors wife was always bothering me to buy? who knew? just a joke I know what you meant. 10yr old SG dino oil is better than the the modern tree hugger dino oil of today. and most 1959 ford 9 inch lasted so long was because it was such a good rear end with a extra pinion bearing and 200 hp.

Funny, this new veggie oil recently was rated one of the very best available:

"4. 5W30 Renewable Lubricants, Bio-SynXtra, Super High Performance motor oil = 130,436 psi
This patented biobased motor oil uses agricultural vegetable oil base stock, and is biodegradable.

The psi value of this oil, which came from testing it at the normal operating test temperature of 230*F, put it in the FANTASTIC Wear Protection Category.

I also went on to test this oil at the much higher temperature of 275*F. At that elevated temperature, any hotter and thinner oil is expected to experience a drop in Wear Protection Capability. This oil had only an extremely small 0.7% drop in capability. Even at that elevated temperature, it produced 129,486 psi, which still kept this much hotter oil in the FANTASTIC Wear Protection Category.

I also tested this oil for its onset of thermal breakdown point, which was 275*F.

This was the first biobased motor oil I ever tested. And its performance was EXTREMELY IMPRESSIVE. These results probably surprise a lot of people, since this oil wasn’t even made from petroleum base stock. So it appears, there could be a very bright future for biobased motor oil, if they are formulated well.

And the test data produced by this biobased oil, further backs up what I have said about a motor oil’s “base stock” NOT being all that critical, it is the “additive package” that IS critical."

Wow, very impressive but is $13.50 a Qt... Now just make it $25 a jug and I'll use it for life!

Edit: Less than $10 qt on Amazon and, not bad!

 

[M-Sport fan]

RLI oils are not 'new' by any means, but yes, they are really good group 5 based oils, with a strong cult following on bitog.

 

[FireRedFiesta]

I was thinking about the Amsoil double bypass setup, but WHERE is there ANY space in this car's engine bay to mount that??!!

That's a problem even for some Ford F-250's! Everything is shoe-horned under the hood. Look at the Trasko web site and see if they have a Trasko that is compatible. First, find the WIX filter that fits your car. Then look on the Trasko compatibility page and see if the WIX filter is there. If it is, then you can buy one of those bypass filters and change the cartridge every 10,000 miles. The oil will stay like new for a LONG, LONG time. WAY over 50,000+ miles, easily. I would not doubt that you could go over 100,000 miles on the same oil using those Trasko filters. I believe the WIX filter for a 2016 Fiesta ST is part # 51348. Can you see if that's on the Trasko site?

 

[M-Sport fan]

The only problem with those kind of mileages on oil is that it is not only the dirt and grit which kills it, and renders it useless, it is the heat and mechanical SHEARING (not to mention the fuel dilution) which kills it, yes, even if using the absolute BEST, $25.00+ a quart, top tier, 'shear proof' group 4/5 base stock, best add pack 'boutique' oils out there, especially in a VERY hot running, performance DI turbo setup like ours.

 

[jmrtsus]

I go by this in using PUP 5w-30: https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

Sure, it may not be 100% conclusive as to the very best available, but it at least shows what I'm using isn't garbage.

The problem with his tests is they do not jibe with true wear studies. I'm sure he is a good engineer and very knowledgeable but apparently has limited access to test equipment. Pressure alone is only part of the story and he leaves out the standardized oil wear tests. I guess he does not have the ability to do those and am sure the certified equipment is not an inexpensive purchase. So based on pressure alone I think he make poor assumptions of wear in motor oils. The only additive the U.S. Government has tested and demonstrated as reducing wear and friction is Titanium. (N.I.S.T tests) His pressure test have the two oils with it as mid pack on wear. I will go with complete tests from a certified lab over just pressure testing. I agree that most top tier synthetic oils are plenty good and if that was all I could get I would not worry too much. But some are better than others according to real wear tests so I will use them as long as I can get them. I have had engines go over 300K on dino oil so I have no doubt my ST will give me a long life. I do oil changes on average (just calculated it) about every 2750 miles. There are many oils out there and many opinions on what is most important in an oil. Some swear by Noack, others the syn base, pressure, additives and just plain brand. As my good friend Sly once said, "different strokes for different folks, and so on and so on and scooby dooby doo". He was stoned at the time.............

 

[danbfree]

The problem with his tests is they do not jibe with true wear studies. I'm sure he is a good engineer and very knowledgeable but apparently has limited access to test equipment. Pressure alone is only part of the story and he leaves out the standardized oil wear tests. I guess he does not have the ability to do those and am sure the certified equipment is not an inexpensive purchase. So based on pressure alone I think he make poor assumptions of wear in motor oils. The only additive the U.S. Government has tested and demonstrated as reducing wear and friction is Titanium. (N.I.S.T tests) His pressure test have the two oils with it as mid pack on wear. I will go with complete tests from a certified lab over just pressure testing. I agree that most top tier synthetic oils are plenty good and if that was all I could get I would not worry too much. But some are better than others according to real wear tests so I will use them as long as I can get them. I have had engines go over 300K on dino oil so I have no doubt my ST will give me a long life. I do oil changes on average (just calculated it) about every 2750 miles. There are many oils out there and many opinions on what is most important in an oil. Some swear by Noack, others the syn base, pressure, additives and just plain brand. As my good friend Sly once said, "different strokes for different folks, and so on and so on and scooby dooby doo". He was stoned at the time.............

And you're right, there are plenty of conventional oils actually pretty far up the list, so I totally agree that they are fine especially at shorter internals but can't help but believe that Amsoil is consistently asking the very best, I just like to find the happy medium of full synthetic I can change every 5k and feel safe and not break the bank.. But good discussion!

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

 

[Quisp]

RLI oils are not 'new' by any means, but yes, they are really good group 5 based oils, with a strong cult following on bitog.

Yeap castor is a fantastic lubricant, but has it's pitfalls.

 

[FireRedFiesta]

If that is true, then how did Haywood Gray put 409,000 miles on the same oil in his semi truck using the bypass filter system? Every time he sent in oil samples, they said the oil was good for continued use. The key is to use a bypass filter system.

Find out what WIX filter fits your car. Once you have the WIX filter, then go here and see if Trasko has a bypass filter that is compatible with your car.

Each filter is about $10 bucks. So buy the filter unit and 9 extra filters and then you are good for the next 100,000 miles of driving. Every 10,000 just change the cartridge out. It cleans down to nearly 1 micron or so. I think dirt under 4 microns doesn't do damage to your engine. Top off with a small amount of oil and you're off to the races. That's about as cheap as you can spend to maintain a car. And not only that, your engine will run like new as long as you own it as long as you have the best synthetic oil in the world.

 

[Ford ST]

If you are so obsessed with not changing your oil why don't you start an oil thread? and leave this transmission one alone. Sorry the guys here are going to change the oil and filters I'm not going to play with this super filter nonsense. Fuel dilution is real. Not trying to argue your car do what you want, but just start your own oil thread.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

 

[Intuit]

Look into installing a bypass filter to clean your oil down to 1 to 3 microns. Those are the ultimate oil filters. Many companies make them and they can keep your oil looking almost new for as long as you keep the filters changed while leaving the same oil in. Many companies make these filters. Look at Frantz, Trasko, and Amsoil. Any one of these 3 filters will provide amazing results, no matter what synthetic oil you use. The Trasko filters have to be changed every 10,000 miles, but the Amsoil one, as it can be a dual bypass, can go up to a whopping 60,000 miles while the secondary filter has to be changed at shorter intervals. It depends on what vehicle you're putting them in and if you have room. I've used Trasko and Amsoil but yet to try Frantz.

Increased filtration must be compensated with increased surface area and/or pressure. Otherwise finer filtering generally sacrifices flow rate, volume and potentially post-filter oil pressures.

 

[Sam4]

I forget...was this thread about transmission fluid and changing it?

 

[M-Sport fan]

Yeah, we DID get a bit sidetracked.

 

[Sam4]

I'm a wiseass, and was it was meant in jest, but the depth of knowledge available to us through our fellow members is awesome!

 

[danbfree]

So I noticed that Ford officially calls for their DCT fluid, which I find strange but Ravenol MTF-2, which is 75W-80 meets spec.. but what about running thicker, like some guys run 75w-90. does this help with smoothness at the cost of shift speed or MPG's?