Thread Starter
#21
Might as well update with what happened. I forgot to put in the shims so had to take off the head again. I then found out the shims were shipped in 2 different thicknesses. The thick ones needed a little file on the edge to be slit into the block. They weren't overly tight but installed them a little below the deck surface to be sure they didn't interfere with the headgasket when mounting the head. Victor Reinz headgasket P/N: 61-10236-00
When installing headstuds I used this Philips head to put in the shims and nuts. Used a socked to start the nuts Made quick work of getting all nuts and shims in their correct places.
Used the factory torque specs with 90 degree turns and not the ARP specs.
To mount the cams the end piece calls for some gasket material. I used Loctite 574 which I believe should meet WSS-M2G348-A11.
I used a brand new Continental belt. P/N: CT881. Reused the old waterpump which is in excellent knick(less than 10.000km). As well as the tensioner. No wear at all. Don't mind the butchered thread on the intake VVT cover. It tightens just perfectly, removing it is a bitch though. Tightening the balancer had me hanging off my breaker bar to get the extra 15 degrees.
When installing headstuds I used this Philips head to put in the shims and nuts. Used a socked to start the nuts Made quick work of getting all nuts and shims in their correct places.
Used the factory torque specs with 90 degree turns and not the ARP specs.
To mount the cams the end piece calls for some gasket material. I used Loctite 574 which I believe should meet WSS-M2G348-A11.
I used a brand new Continental belt. P/N: CT881. Reused the old waterpump which is in excellent knick(less than 10.000km). As well as the tensioner. No wear at all. Don't mind the butchered thread on the intake VVT cover. It tightens just perfectly, removing it is a bitch though. Tightening the balancer had me hanging off my breaker bar to get the extra 15 degrees.